Cyclopedia 



»/ 



Textile Work 



A General Reference Library 



ON COTTON, WOOLEN AND WORSTED YARN MANUFACTURE, WEAVING, DESIGN- 
ING, CHEMISTRY AND DYEING, FINISHING. KNITTING, 
AND ALJ.IED SUBJECTS. 



Prepared by a Corps of 
TEXTILE EXPERTS AND LEADING MANUFACTURERS 



Illustrated with over Two Thousand Erigravi/igs 



SEVEN VOLUMES 



CHICAGO 

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE 

1911 



,q|l 



By trftssfer from 
U. 9. Tariff Boarti 

loia 



Copyright, 1906. 1911 



AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE, 



Copyright, 1906 



AMERICAN TECHNICAL SOCIETY. 



Entered at Stationers' Hall, London. 
All Rights Reserved. 



p^ 



Authors and Collaborators 



FENWICK UMPLEBY 

Head of Department of Textile Design, Lowell Textile School. 



LOUIS A. OLNEY, A. c. _ ' ' ■';';. V" 

Head of Department of Textile Chemistry and bye'ing, Lowell Textile School. 



M. A. METCALF 

Manaeine Editor, "The Textile American." 



/63 



H. WILLIAM NELSON 

Head of Department of Weaving, Lowell Textile School. 



JOHN F. TIMMERMANN 

Textile Expert and Writer. 

Formerly with Central Woolen Co., Stafford Springs, Conn. 



WILLIAM R. MEADOWS, A. B., S. B. 

Director, Mississippi Textile School. 

^• 

MILES COLLINS 

Superintendent of Abbott Worsted Co., Forge Village and Graniteville, Ma 



CHARLES C. HEDRICK 

Mechanical Engineer, Lowell Machine Shop. 



OTIS L. HUMPHREY 

Formerly Head of Department of Cotton Yarn Manufacturing, Lowell Textile SchooL 



C. E. FOSTER 

Assistant Superintendent, Bigelow Carpet Co., CUnton, Mass. 



Authors and Collaborators — Continued 



WILLIAM G. NICHOLS 

General Manufacturing Agent for the China Mfg. Co.. the Webster Mfg. Co.. and the 

Pembroke Mills. 
Formerly Secretary and Treasurer, Springstein Mills, Chester. S. C. 
Author of "Cost Finding in Cotton Mills." 



B. MOORE PARKER, B. S. 

Head of Department of Carding and Spinning. North Carolina College of Agriculture 
and Mechanic Arts. 



L WALWIN BARR 

With Lawrence & Co., New York City. 

Formerly Instructor in Textile Design. Lowell Textile School- 



EDWARD B. WAITE 

Head of Instruction Department, American School of Correspondenci 
American Society of Mechanical Engineers. 
Western Society of Engineers. 

FRANK T. DOXNELLAN 

Graduate, Lowell Textile School. 



^ 



GEORGE R. METCALFE, M. E. 



Head of Technical Publication Department, Westinghouse Elec. & Mfg. Co. 

Formerly Technical Editor, Street Railway Review. 

Formerly Editor of Text-book Department, American School of Correspondence. 



ALFRED S. JOHNSON, Ph. D. 

Editor, "The Technical World Magazine." 



HARRIS C. TROW, S. B. 

Editor of Text-book Department. American School of Corresponden 
American Institute of Electrical Engineers. 



CLARENCE HUTTON 

Textile Editor, American School of Correspondence. 



Authorities Consulted 



THE editors have freely consulted the standard technical literature of 
Europe and America in the preparation of these volumes and desii'e 
to express their indebtedness, particularly to the following eminent 
authorities, whose well known treatises should be in the library of every 
one connected with textile manufacturing. 

Grateful acknowledgment is here made also for the invaluable co-opera- 
tion of the foremost manufacturers of textile machinery, in making these 
volumes thoroughly representative of the best and latest practice in the 
design and construction of textile appliances; also for the valuable drawings 
and data, suggestions, criticisms, and other courtesies. 



WILLIA'M G. NICHOLS. 

L Mfg. Co., the Webster Mfff. Co., and the Pembroke 



Formerly Secretary and Treasurer, Sprinpslein Mills, Chester, S. C. 
Author of "Cost Finding in Cotton Mills." 



THOMAS R. ASHENHURST. 

Head Master Textile Department, Bradford Technical College. 
Author of "Design in Textile Fabrics." 



J. MERRITT MATTHEWS, Ph. D. 

Head of Chemical and Dyeing Department, Philadelphia Textile School. 
Author of "Textile Fibers," etc. 



J. J. HUMMEL, F. C. S. 

Professor and Director of the Dyeing Department, Yorkshire College, Leeds. 
Author of "Dyeing of Textile Fabrics," etc. 



WILLIAM J. HANNAN. 

Lecturer on Cotton Spinning at the Chorley Science and Art School. 
Author of "Textile Fibers of Commerce." 



ROBERTS BEAUMONT, M. E., M. S. A. 

Head of Textile Department, City and Guilds of London Institute. 
Author of "Color in Woven Design," "Woolen and Worsted Manufacture." 



JOHN LISTER. 

Author of "The Manufacturing Processes of Woolen and Worsted." 



Authorities Consulted— Continued 



w. s. BRIGHT McLaren, m. a. 

Author of "Spinning Woolen and Worsted." 



CHARLES VICKERMAN. 

Author of "Woolen Spinning," "The Woolen Thread," "Notes on Carding," etc 



WILLIAM SCOTT TAGGART. 

Author of "Cotton Spinning." 



HOWARD PRIESTMAN. 

Author of "Principles of Wool Combing." "Principles of Worsted Spinning," etc. 



H. NEVILLE. 

Principal of Textile Department. Municipal Technical School, Blackbur 
Author of "The Student's Handbook of Practical Fabric Structure." 



FRED BRADBURY. 

Head of Textile Department, Municipal Technical Schools. Halifax. 
Author of "Calculations in Yarns and Fabrics." 



E. A. POSSELT. 

Consulting Expert on Textile Manufacturing. 

Author of "Technology of Textile Design." "Cotton Manufacturing." etc. 



H. A. METZ. 

President, H. A. Metz & Co. 

Author of "The Year Book for Colorists and Dyers." 



T. P. BELL. 

Instructor in Linen Manufacturing, etc.. City and Guilds of London Institute. 
Author of "Jacquard Weaving and Designing." 



M. M. BUCKLEY. 

Head of Spinning Department. Halifax Municipal Technical School. 
Author of "Cone Drawing," "Worsted Overlookers Handbook," etc. 



FRANKLIN BEECH. 

Author of "D.veing of Woolen Fabrics," "Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics," etc. 



Authorities Consulted — Continued 



WALTER M. GARDNER, F. C. S. 

Professor of Chemistry and Dyeing in City of Bradford Technical College, 
Author of "Wool Dyeing-," etc. 



ALBERT AINLEY. 

Author of "Woolen and Worsted Loomfixing'." 



G. F. IVEY. 

Author of "Loomfixing and Weaving." 



ERNEST WHITWORTH. 

Formerly Principal of Designing and Cloth Analysis Department, New Bedford Textile School. 
Author of "Practical Cotton Calculations." 



DAVID PATERSON, F. R. S. E., F. C. S. 

Author of "Color Printing of Carpet Yarn," "Color Mixing," "Color Matching on Textiles," etc. 



Introductory Note 




'HE Cyclopedia of Textile Work is compiled from 
the most practical and compreLensive instruction 
papers of the American School of Correspondence. 
It is intended to fnrnish instruction to those who 
cannot take a correspondence course, in the same manner as the 
American School of Correspondence affords instruction to those 
who cannot attend a resident textile school. 

^ The instruction papers forming the Cyclopedia have been pre- 
pared especially for home study by acknowledged authorities, and 
represent the most careful study of practical needs and conditions. 
Although primarily intended for correspondence study they are 
used as text-books by the Lowell Textile School, the Textile De- 
partment of the Clemson Agricultural College, the Textile Depart- 
ment of the North Carolina College of Agriculture and Mechanic 
Arts, the Mississippi Textile School, and for reference in the lead- 
ing libraries and mills. 

^I Years of experience in the mill, laboratory and class room 
have been required in the preparation of the various sections of 
the Cyclopedia. Each section has been tested by actual use for 
its practical value to the man who desires to know the latest and 
best practice from the card room to the finishing department. 



4[^ Numerous examples for practice are inserted at intervals. 
These, with the test questions, help the reader to fix in mind the 
essential points, thus combining the advantages of a textbook with 
a reference work. 

^ Grateful acknowledgment is due to the corps of authors and 
collaborators, who have prepared the many sections of this work. 
The hearty co-operation of these men — manufacturers and educa- 
tors of wide practical experience and acknowledged ability — has 
alone made these volumes possible. 

C The Cyclopedia has been compiled with the idea of making it 
a work thoroughly technical, yet easily comprehended by the man 
who has but little time in which to acquaint himself with the 
fundamental branches of textile manufacturing. If, therefore, it 
should benefit any of the large number of workers who need, yet 
lack, technical training, the editors will feel that its mission has 
been accomplished. 




Contents 



VOLUME I. 






Cotton Fiber . 






Page'" 11 


Grading Cotton 






" 27 


Opening and Picking 






" 39 


Carding 






" 101 


Sliver Lap Machine 






" 167 


Ribbon Lapper . 






" 172 


Comb .... 






" 174 


Railway Head . 






" 201 


Drawing Frames 






" 206 


Ring Spinning . 






" 269 


Mule Spinning . 






" 307 


Review Questions . 






" 333 



* For Page numbers see foot of pages. 



COTTON FIBER, 



Before studying the manufacture of cotton, it will be interest- 
ing to know something of the history, botany and gen.eral charac- 
teristics of the plant, and of the early records of the application of 
its fiber to the manufacture of cloth. 

It is probable that to the Hindoos should be credited the first 
practical use of the cotton fiber. Early records show that it was 
known as early as 800 B.C. both as a plant and as a textile. 

Heroditus, 445 B.C., makes meiition several times of the cot- 
ton plant, and of the fiber for the manufacture of cloth. 

The cultivation of the plant or the manufacture of cloth from 
the fiber did not attract much attention at this time in any country 
but India; in fact, from about 1500 B.C. to 1500 A.D. India was 
the center of the manufacturing as well as the cotton-raising 
industry. 

Although flax was the article most used by Egyptian weavers, 
it is probable that cotton was known to them at a very early date, 
as Pliny ^vrites : " In upper Egypt, toward Arabia, there grows a 
shrub wliich some call Clossypiiim and others Xylon, from which 
the stuffs are made which we call Xylina," and his description of 
the plant which follows refers to cotton. 

There is abundant evidence that cotton was grown in the New 
World prior to the advent of the earlier discoverers. 

Columbus in 1492 found cotton growing in the West Indies. 
He and other explorers found it equall}'^ abundant on the main- 
land, and also found the natives showing considerable skill in the 
manipulation of its fiber in the manufacture of cloth, fish lines and 
nets. 

Cortez found cotton in Mexico in 1519, and used it in stuffing 
the clothing of his soldiers as a protection against the natives. 
Pizzaro found cotton in Peru in 1522, and cotton cloth has been 
found ill the ancient tombs of that country. De Vica in 1536 



COTTON FIBER. 



found the cotton plant growing in that region wliich is now Texas 
and Louisiana. 

Summing tlie matter up, we are led to believe that on a belt 
of the earth's surface coinciding very nearly with the cotton belt of 
to-day, the plant was found either in a wild or cultivated state in 
the earliest ages of which we have records. 

At the present day the cotton-raising territory includes practi- 
cally the whole of India, parts of China and Japan, Central Asia, 
the valley of the Nile in Egypt, and Syria in the Old World. 
In the New World, the Southern States and tlieir islands, Mexico, 
Brazil, Peru, and several islands in the Pacific. 

The following diagram shows approximately the proportions 
of the vi^orld's crop raised in the various countries mentioned. 
The figures given represent bales of five hundred pounds each. 



World's Crop 


1892-93 


United States 


1892-93 


India 


1892-93 


China 


1892-93 


Egypt 


1892-93 


South America 


1892-93 



11,950,000 
6,700,000 
2,200,000 
1,200,000 
1,000,000 
225,000 



COTTON IN THE UNITED STATES. 



According to the most reliable records, the first cotton culti- 
vated in the American colonies was in Virginia, in 1609. 

A more extensive effort at cotton cultivation was undertaken 
in the same colony in 1621, at wliich time "cotton wool " was 
quoted at eight shillmgs per pound. English colonists in the 
Carolinas undertook the cultivation of cotton about 1660. 

The first export of any considerable amount of cotton occurred 
in 1770, at which time twenty bales were shipped to Liverpool. 

One hmidred years later the exports amounted to about three 
million bales, and at the present time the export of American 
cotton is between six and seven million bales annually. 

The following diagram allows a comparison between the 
world's crop and the crop of the United States for the years 
1893 and 1900. It Avill be seen that in 1900 Texas alone pro- 
duced thirtj-four per cent of the crop of the United States, and 
about twenty-five per cent of the world's crop. 



COTTON FIBER. 



I World's Crop 1893 and 1900 

United States 1893 and 1900 

Texas 1900 

The following table gives approximately the amounts of cotton 
raised in the different states of the United States for the years 
1870, 1895 and 1900. The figures given represent bales of five 
hundred pounds each. 





1870 


Alabama 


, 429,500 


Arkansas 


248,000 


Georgia 


474,000 


Louisiana 


351,000 


Mississippi 


565,090 


Nortli Carolina 


145,000 


South Carolina 


224,500 


Texas 


350,000 


All others 


225,000 


Total 


3,012,000 



1895 


1900 


1,000,000 


1,023,000 


850,000 


.813,000 


1,300,000 


1,203,000 


600,000 


705,000 


1,200,000 


1,046,000 


465,000 


477,000 


800,000 


748,000 


3,270,000 


3,438,000 


410.000 


670,000 


9,901,000 


10,123,000 



BOTANICAL VARIETIES. 

Cotton is the most widelj^ cultivated and manufactured of all 
the textiles, and is the product of a plant belonging to tlie Malva.- 
cCiB or Alallow family, to which family also belong the Mallow 
Hollyhock and Okia. It is known scientifically by its generic 
name, Gossypium. 

Among the early botanists much confusion existed in' regard 
to the proper classification of tlie species growing in different parts 
of the world, their classifications ranging from tliree to eighty-eight 
species. It is generally agreed that Dr. Boyle's classification 
covers those cottons known to commerce, and can be accepted as 
satisfactory for all practical purposes. His classification gives 
G. Arboreum, G. Barbadense, G. Herbaceum, and G. Hirsutum. 

Grossi/pium Arhoreuvi, or Tree Cotton. This cotton is a peren- 
nial, varying in height from six to twenty feet, and sometimes 
attains a diameter of five inches; the flowers are brownish red, 
seed green, and adhering strongly to the fibers. The fibei-s are 
of a yellowish tinge, soft, silky, and an inch or less in length. . 
This cotton cannot be considered as a cultivated variety, and coni- 
paratiA^ely little is used. 

Gossypium Barhaclense. This species is so called from tlie 



(j COTTON FIBER. 



fact that it is a native of Barbadoes. It has a yellowish blossom, 
a black seed which is free from tlie liaii^' covering of otlier varie- 
ties, and is distinctly shrubby in growth. Height from six to ten 
feet. Commercially, this is a very valuable and important cotton, 
being fine and long stapled. The long, silky cotton kno^vii as 
Sea Island, and the more valuable of Eg}-ptian cottons, belong to 
this species. By cultivation this species has been extended to the 
West Indies, the coast of the Southern States and their islands, 
Central America, Jamaica, Porto Rico, Egj^jt, Island of Bourbon 
and Australia. 

The yield of lint from Sea Island cotton is in smaller propor- 
tion than from any other kind of cotton grown in this countrj', 
but on account of the lengtli and quality of its fiber it is adapted 
to the finest classes of goods, and on that account can be considered 
a very valuable variety. 

Gossypium Merbaceum. This is undoubtedlj^ the hardiest 
variety of cotton, and on that account has the widest geographical 
range. Most of the cotton produced in the Old World is of this 
species, which is generally considered to be of Asiatic origin. It 
is an annual, and herbaceous in nature ; average height, five feet. 
It has yelloAv seeds covered with a gray down, fibers adhering 
strongly to the seeds. Staple of medium length. This cotton is 
grown in Arabia, India, China, Turkey and Egypt, as well as in 
this country. 

G-ossypium Hirsxitum. This variety is so named on account 
of the hairy character of the plant. Maximum height about six 
feet, but varying greatly in different locations and soils. Seeds 
are covered with a greenish down. Staple white, and regular m 
length. The greater proportion of Gulf and Upland cotton culti- 
vated in the United States belongs to this species, though some 
varieties have more of the characteristics of the Herbaceum 
type. 

Another species of cotton, G. Peruvanium, is often given, but 
many botanists include this with G. Barbadense. This cotton is 
a native of Peru, and is of some importance. Its chief character- 
istic seems to be a harsh, wooll}^ condition of the fiber, though of 
good length. 



COTTON FIBER. 



CULTIVATION OF AHERICAN COTTON. 

The metliods of cultivation and the. time of planting and 
picking vary in the different localities of the cotton-raising por- 
tion of the United States, and is clue to diffeienees in soil and 
temperature. Planting is done as early as possible ; in fact as 
soon as danger from frosts has passed. There can be considered 
two distinct pej'iods in the life of the cotton plant. The first is 
from the time of planting to midsummer, when every effort 
is made to secure a strong, vigorous growth. At this time plenty 
of moisture, sunshine and cultivation are necessary, and tropical 
conditions are desired to secure and stoi'e the strength which will 
later go to the seed. The second period is from midsummer to 
the time of piclfing. Cultivation is now stopped, 
the ground is allowed to become hard and com- 
pact, and dry, cooler weather is desirable. 
These conditions tend to retard the further 
growth of the jjlant, and allow the stored 
strength to go to the seed. 

Cotton is planted in rows three or four 
feet apart, and appears above the gi'ound in 
about ten days. As soon as the plants are 
large enough to give evidence of strength the 
rows are "chopped out," leaving hills from 
eight to fifteen inches apart, and from tliese 
hills the weaker plants are pulled. Fiom this 
time until about the end of June the crop is 
constantly cultivated by means of shovel plows, 
scrapers and "scooties," to retain the moistuie in the soil .and to 
keep the field clear from weeds and crab grass. 

In seventy-five or eighty clays after planting the blossom 
appears, and the plant continues to blossom for some time. These 
blossoms are at first a creamy white ; the second day they tui'n 
pink or I'ed, and the third day a purplish blue, at which time 
they drop off. After the dropping of tlie blossom the seed-pod, 
or "boll," coumiences to form, and attains its fidl growtli in from 
six to eight weeks. 

When fully developed tho boll bursts, connnencing at the 
apex, and the separations extending down the sides disclose from 




COTTON FUJER. 



three to five cells, divided by walls of membrane. (See Fig. 1.) 
These cells contain from six to eleven seeds each, or from twenty- 
eight to thirty-six in each boll. Each seed is covered with the 
cotton fibers, which are attached at one end in tlie same manner 
as the hair on one's head. (See Fig. 2.) 

When a sufficient number of bolls are open, picking com- 
mences and lasts until frost kills the plant, or until all the lipe 
fibers are picked, which may be some time after frost in the more 
northerly sections. It is desirable to pick the cotton as fast as it 
ripens and before it can be damaged by rain, wind and dust. 
Cotton fields are, as a rule, picked over three times, generally in 
September, October and November, although in the Gulf States 
picking commences in August and sometimes lasts through De- 
cember. 

Picking is done entirely by ^ 

hand, and the cotton placed in /• ^ >'^ 
bags hung around the neck or n' 
waist of the picker, leaving both 1^^ 




hands free to work. These bags v|t ' 

are emptied into baskets as fast 

as filled, and a record of the 

weight taken, as all picking is 

paid for by weight. Seveial 

forms of cotton-picking machines have been tried, but without 

much success, as they gather too lai-ge a proportion of leaf and boll. 

The price paid for picking is from forty to fifty cents per 
hundred pounds of seed cotton, which would be equal to from 
one dollar and twenty cents to one dollar and a half per huucked 
pounds of lint. Pickers have been known to gather as much as 
four hundred pounds of seed cotton per day, but this is the highest 
record, and was accomplished under the most favorable conditions. 
An average day's picking is one hundred pounds. 

The foregoing prices for picking apply to Upland cotton 
under ordinary conditions. The picking of Sea Island cotton 
commands better prices. From a cent to a cent and a half per 
pound is generally paid. The yield of Sea Island is less per acre, 
and more territory must be covered by the pickers f(n' each pound 
secured. Owing to the greater value of Sea Island cotton nu)re 



COTTOX FTDER. 



care is taken in ^^icking, and, as a result, the cotton is more fi'ee 
from leaf and dirt than Upland cotton. The seed cotton is hauled 
from tlie field to the storehouse, or directly to the cotton gin, 
where the seed and lint are separated. 



Ginning is tlie operation of removing tlie cotton fibers from 
the seed. Of cotton picked, two-thirds by weight consists of seed 
and only one-third is material that can be used in the manufacture 
of cloth. Some cottons are much easier to gin than others, as the 
seeds are smooth, free from down, and adhere less strongly to the 
fibers. Sea Island and Egyptian cottons belong to this class. 

There are two styles of gins in use : the roller gin and the saw 
gin ; there are also several forms of each, differing in mechanical 
construction but similar in i^rinciple and operation. 

The origin of the roller gin dates from the time of the early 
cultivation of cotton in India. The oi'iginal roller gin, known as 
tlie foot-roller, consisted simply of a flat stone and a round wooden 
roll. The cotton was spread over the stone and a rolling motion 
imparted to the roll by the foot of the worker, the effect being to 
detach the fibers from the seed and force the seed aw.iy from the 
fibeis. This primitive form of gin was employed only for hard 
seeded cotton, and the product of one person was only about five 
pomids per day. 

The next step in advance gave an improvement over the foot^ 
roller, and was known as the " Churka." This " machine " is of 
very ancient origin, it was formerly used in most of tlie cotton- 
growing countries, and can be found iix some districts of India 
to-day. It consisted of two rollers : an upper one of iron about half 
an iiicli in diameter, and a lower one of wood about two inches 
in diametfr. These rolls were revolved toAvard each other, and 
were fixed in rigid bearings, very close together. The cotton Avas 
fed by hand to these rolls, Avliich grasped the fibers and passed 
them between the rolls. The fibers were freed from the seed by 
this action,- as tlie seed was too large to pass through the limited 
space between the rolls. The action of this gin was very easy on 
the cotton fiber, but the product was small, about eight or ten 
pounds a day being the capacity of the machine, 



17 



10 COTTON FIBER. 



The modern roller gin, of which there are several forms used in 
this country for Sea Island cotton, may be briefly described as fol- 
lows : The seed cotton is fed on a table, or by an endless apron, to 
a leather roller, generally of walrus liide. Along the face of this 
roller, where the seed is dehvered, is a steel blade, the edge of 
which is set close to the surface of the roll, and prevents the 
passage of seed. The leather-covered roll revolves toward the 
steel blade, or " doctor," and being rough on its surface draws 
the fibers under the blade and away from the setd. 

There is a rapidly oscillating comb which knocks the seed 
away from the " doctor " after its fibers have been engaged and 
drawn undei' by the rapidly revolving roll. The cleaned seeds 
fall through slots in the feeding table, and the fibers are cleaned 
from the roll and delivered by a revolving brush. 

The cotton fiber receives little if any damage from the action 
of the roller gin, arid in this particular the roller gin is considered 
far superior to the saw gin. The chief disadvantage of tlie roller 
gin is its limited production, beuig under average conditions about 
two bales per daj'. 

A late form of roller gin, known as the Prior gin, differs 
from others in the construction of the cylinder. In this gin the 
revolving cylinder is covered with a lagging composed of horse- 
hair and rubber, giving a rough surface, which readily grasps the 
cotton fiber. The production of this gin is somewhat in advance 
of that of the ordinary roller gin, but is much less tlian that of the 
average saw gin. 

Roller gins are built with both single and double rollers. 

The saw gin (Fig. 3), which isgeuerallj' used in this country 
for everything but Sea Island cotton, was invented by Eli Whitney 
in 1794. The modern saw gin consists of a box or chamber, ^I, 
into which the seed cotton is automatically fed by an endless spiked 
apron. One side of this receptacle consists of a grate of metal 
bars or ribs, C. Through the slots of this grate project notched 
steel discs or saws, B, from fortj' to eighty in number, arranged on 
an arbor with collars between. The teeth of these saws, which 
revolve at a speed of three hundred to five hundred revolutions 
per minute, engage the fiber and pull it from the seed and through 
the grate, allowing the cleaned seeds to fall tlu'ough a slot, K, at 



COTTON FIBER. 



11 



the bottom of the box. Tlie cotton fiber clinging to the teeth of 
the saws is removed by a rapidly revolving brush, H, whicli, aided 
by the current of air which it generates, throws the ginned cotton 
on the floor of the ginhouse, or against condensing cages, which 
deliver it. 

Saw gins are also built with a double set of saws, but their 
construction is substantially the same. A saw gin of sixty saws, 
at a speed of four hundred revolutions per minute, will giu about 
ten bales per day, although a smaller production would give a 
better quality of product. 




Fig. 3. 

There are several conditions which will cause a decided 
damage to the cotton in the operation of ginning. An experi- 
enced judge of cotton can readily detect the result of improper 
ginning by an examination of cotton in the bale. 

Cut staple is the result of too high saw speed, or of having 
the teeth of the saws too sharp on the edge. This damage is a 
serious one, as it greatly weakens the fibers that are not actually 
cut by the operation. 



12 COTTON FIBER. 



Neppy cotton is another serious condition which may arise 
from overcrowding the gin, or from tlie f.tct that the saws are set 
too close to the bars of the grate. Neps are little tangled fibers, 
or tangled bunches of fibers, which are hard to remove from the 
cotton in the after processes, and the presence of nejjs in any con- 
siderable quantity condemns cotton which otherwise might grade 
well. 

Stringy or ^^ tailed" cotton is the result of ginning when the 
cotton is too wet. Although not as serious a defect as the two 
preceding, it has an influence on the grading of the stock and on 
the action of the cotton in manufacturing operations. 

The damage to the fiber in ginning is not present to any 
extent when roller gins are used, and for that reason roller-ginned 
cotton Avill bring a better price, other conditions equal, than saw- 
ginned cotton. There has for some time been an effort to secure 
the adoption of some form of roller gin in the South, some manu- 
facturers claiming that roller-ginned cotton is worth to them one- 
half to one cent per pound more than saw-ginned cotton. Up to 
the present time no great advance has been made in this direction, 
but many predict that the roller gin will eventually displace the 
present form of saw gin. 

BALING. 

After being ginned the cotton is ready for baling. There 
are several forms of baling press, the most commt)n of wliich is 
the screw press connected with the ginhonse. This press gives 
a bale which on reaching the market or shipping point is again 
compressed. 

Tlie square bale, or American bale (Fig. 4), though varying 
greatly in size, is supposed to be fiftj-fdur inches long, twenty- 
seven inches wide, and to weigh five hundred pounds. The thick- 
ness depends upon the amount of compression, and averages about 
sixteen inches. This bale is covered with coarse burlap bagging 
and bound with iron hoops or " ties." The American bale has the 
reputation of being the pooi'est bale made. The ties, six or eight 
in number, are hardly sufficient to confine the bale, the covers are 
generally of poor quality, and the weight of bagging and ties a 
large per cent of the gross weight. The loss of room in shipping 



'40 



COTTON FIBER. 



and the loss of cotton and damage is considerable ; in sliort, the 
bale is clumsy, dirty, expensive and far from satisfactory. 

Egyptian cotton is received in this country in much better 
shape. The cotton is completely covered by the bagging and 
bound by eleven or twelve ties. The Egyptian bale (Fig. 5) is 
compressed to a density of about forty-five pounds to the cubic 
foot, and weighs on an average seven hundred pounds. 

Peruvian cotton is received in smaller bales, of about two 
hundred pounds weight, and generally in good condition. 

There are two other systems of baling, of comparatively recent 
date, which are attracting considerable attention among manufac- 





Fig. 4. 



Fig. 5. 



turers and cotton planters. One of these is called the Bessonette 
or " round-lap " system. By this system the lint as it comes from 
the gill is blown into a reservoir or bat former, where it is con- 
verted into an even, continuous sheet. This sheet is wound ai'ound 
an arbor or core under pressure, the pressure being light at first 
and increasing with the size of the roll. The pressure is applied 
by revolving iron rolls until the bale becomes of full size and 
density. By this method of rolling under pressure, bales are 
produced wliich are twenty-two inclies in diameter, thirty-four 
and forty-eight inches in lengtli, and averaging 275 and 425 
pounds each. Tlie density of this bale is about thirty-five pounds 
to the cubic foot as against about twenty -two pounds in the 
American hale. With tlie Bessonette bale no hoops are needed, 



SI 



14 COTTON FIBER. 



'^ 



as the bale is covered with a strip of cotton cloth before the 
baling pressure is released, and the ends of the bale are capped 
with clotli, also. Of the cotton crop of 1900, about five hiindred 
thousand bales were of this type. 

Another form of cylindrical bale is the '' Lowry bale." Tiiis 
bale is formed by feeding the cotton loose from the gin into a 
receptacle, the bottom of which is a revolving plate containing 
several slots radiating from a center to the circumference. Under 
this revolving plate is a cylindrical chamber, into which the cotton 
is first packed by hand. The bottom of this chamber is held by 
hydraulic i:)ressure. The cotton in the receptacle passes through 
the slots in the revolving plate, and by the circular motion of the 
plate is drawn through and jjlaced very compactly in tlie chamber 
below. As the bale builds, the jjressure of the cotton overcomes 
the hydraulic pressure, and the bottom of the cylinder is forced 
downward until the bale has attained the required length. This 
bale is secured by several wire ties placed longitudinally around 
the bale and afterward enclosed in cotton cloth. This bale is of 
uniform size, eighteen inches in diameter and thirty-six inches in 
length, and is compressed to a density of about forty-five pounds 
per cubic foot, weighing, with cover, about 250 pounds. There 
were 122 presses of this type operated throughout the country 
for the crop of 1900, producing about 375,000 bales. 

There are several advantages possessed by both of these 
cylindrical bales over the old-style American bale. They are 
easier and cheaper to handle, less waste from sampling, cleaner, 
smaller percentage of bagging and ties, less risk from fire and 
greater salvage in case of fire. The insurance and freight are 
also lower. The Bessonette bale is sometimes called the Under- 
writers bale. 

The tare, or bagging, and ties on the American bale amount 
to twenty-four to thirty pounds per bale, or about five or six per 
cent. On either form of cylindrical bale the cover weighs two 
and one-half or three pounds per bale, giving less than two per 
cent of tare. 

The position of the cotton in the Bessonette bale can be com- 
pared to a roll of wide tape. In the Lowry bale its form is more 
that of a flat coiled spring. 



COTTON FIBER. 15 



COTTON FIBER. 

Although a knowledge of the diseases to which a cotton plant 
is liable, the insects which affect its growtli, and the cost of pro- 
duction in various localities is interesting and valuable, a considera- 
tion of the structure of the fiber and the commercial varieties and 
gradings is far more important. 

In every lot of cotton three classes of fibers can be recognized: 
the ripe, half-ripe and unrijje. A perfect cotton fiber consists of 
four pai-ts : First, an outer membrane ; second, the real cellulose, 
which constitutes about eighty-five per cent of the fiber ; third, a 
central spiral deposit of liarder nature ; and fourth, a central 
secretion corresponding to the pith of a quill. 

Covering the fiber is a varnish amomrting to less than one 
per cent of the weight of the fiber, and known as "cotton wax." 
This is the substance which makes the fiber slow to absorb mois- 
ture, and which in absorlient cotton has been removed by chemical 
action. 

The cotton fiber, which appears to be a smooth, round fila- 
ment to the naked eye, has under the microscope a very different 
appearance. The ripe cotton fiber, when seen under the micro- 
scope, has the appearance of a collapsed, twisted tube with corded 
and slightly corrugated edges, and somewhat resembles an elon- 
gated corkscrew. These convolutions or twists of the fiber are 
peculiar to cotton, and are not jjresent to any extent in any other 
fiber, either vegetable or animal. To these convolutions is due 
to a great extent the value of the cotton fiber. The twisting 
which the fibers receive in the process of spinning interlocks these 
convolutions of the fiber and gives great strength to the yarn.. It 
also overcomes any tendency of the fibers to slip over each other 
when tension is applied. Fig. 6 shows the appearance of various 
fibers under the microscope. A and B represent the appearance 
of fibers of wool, showing the scales which in spinning are inter- 
locked, which gives considerable strength to woolen yarn. C 
represents the appearance of a ripe cotton fiber, and shows the 
twists or convolutions and the corded edges. D represents a fiber 
of silk and E of camel's-hair. These twists of the cotton fiber are 
not as numerous in half-ripe fiber, and are almost lacking in the 
unripe or immature fiber. Owing to this fact the unripe fiber is 



Ifi 



COTTON FIBER. 



of little valvie lo inanufacturers. It is alsn lacking in strength, 
and is slow to take dye, as its structure is less porous. Unripe 
fiber can be detected by the eye on account of its glossy, trans- 
parent appearance. 

Fig. 7 shows the appearance of several cotton fibers at dif- 
ferent stages of maturity. A and B are the uniipe fibers, C the 
half-ripe, and D and E are ihe fully ripe or mature fibers. 

Fig. 8 represents cross- 
sections of the same. A rep- 
resents the unrij^e fibers, B 
the half ripe and C the fully 
ripe. 

The microscope can 
therefore be depended upon 
to identify the cotton fiber. 
Other tests, however, can be 
made. The burning of the 
fiber will distinguisli between 
cotton and wool or silk. The 
cotton fiber burns with a 
flash, leaving a white ash, 
while wool or silk emit a 
disagreeable odor, leaving a 
small lump of carbonized mat- 
ter on the end of the fiber. 
A strong solution of caustic 
soda will entirely destroy wool or silk; the effect of wetting a 
cotton fiber with caustic soda is to distend the fiber and almost 
eradicate the convolutions, leaving it stronger than before. It also 
gives it the appearance of a round glass rod which has been bent 
in every direction. 

The value of cotton depends principally on the length, 
strength and fineness of the staple. The diameter of cotton fibers 
vary from -^-^^-^ inch to -jq^oq inch, and length from i inch to 2^ 
inches. De Bowman estimates that there are 140,000,000 fibers 
to the pound. The number of convolutions or twists in the cotton 
fiber is greater and more regular in some varieties than in others. 
In Sea Island cotton the convolutions are very regular, and have 




COTTON FIBER. 



17 




been estimated as between three and four hundred per inch of 
fiber length. Poorer varieties of cotton liave less frequent convo- 
lutions, as low in some cases as one hundied per inch of length. 

As the autliorities on 
the lengths of cotton fiber 
do not entirely agree in all 
cases, it will be safe in 
treating this subject to give 
the average length, diam- 
eter and general character- 
istics of a few of the more 
important commercial vari- 
eties in the order of their 
length of staple. The 
nuHibers and kinds of 3'am 
for which the different 
lengths and varieties of 
cotton are used will be 

found to vary Avidely in different locations and under different 
conditions. These numbers are for warp yarns, and, in many 
cases, the cotton can be spun into somewhat finer numbers for 
filling yam, as the required strength for filling is not as great. 

Sea Island is by far the 
finest cotton grown, and there- 
fore careful attention is given to 
the picking, ginning and baling. 
The best of Sea Island cotton is 
grown on Edisto, Port Royal 
and St. Helena Islands off the 
coast of South Carolina, and the 
Cumberland Islands off the coast 

of Georgia. Some Sea Island 
■"ft- "• '^ 

cotton is grown on the low por- 
tion of the coasts of these States. It has a long, glossy, silky 
fiber, with regular convolutions, and contains much unripe fiber ; 
it is usually combed. The black seed free from hairy covering 
makes the ginning comparatively easy. It is ginned on roller 
gins only. It is used largelyfor the manufacture of sewing thread 




COTTON FIBER. 



and for the finest of lawns and muslins. It is regularly spun 
from 150 to 300, and commercially as fine as 600 ; has been spun 
experimentally as high as 2,000. 

The territory adapted to the raising of this crop is very 
limited, which accounts for the comparatively small amount 
grown. The Sea Island crop of 1900 amounted to 88,291 bales, 
a decrease of 8,985 bales from the crop of the preceding year. 
The principal markets for Sea Island cotton are Charleston, S. C, 
and Savannah, Ga. The average price obtained for 1900 was for 
South Carolina, $.256 ; Georgia, $.20, and Florida, $.19 per pound. 

Egyptian Cotton. The brown Egyptian cotton is used to a 
considerable extent in this country. It is a long, silky, clean 
cotton, from a dark to light golden color. It contains a large per 
cent of short fibers and is generally combed. The color of this 
cotton is due to the presence of a natural substance known as 
" Endochrome." Length of fiber from 1^ to 1^ inches, a large 
proportion running about l^^g inches. This cotton ranks next to 
Sea Island, and larger amounts are being imported each year. It 
is largely used for the better grades of underwear and hosiery, and 
to some extent for thread for lace work. The yarn made from 
this cotton is one of the best for mercerizing, as the fiber is natu- 
rally smooth. It is grown in the valley of the Nile in Egypt. 
The principal market is Alexandria. The imports of this cotton 
into the United States were about sixty thousand bales in 1^95. 

Grulf cotton, or New Orleans as it is known in England, is 
the best of strictly American cotton, for Sea Island cotton, 
although grown in this country, is not generally ranked as an 
American cotton, but occupies a class by itself. Gulf cotton 
properly includes many varieties, known as Peeler-Benders, Red 
River, Allan seed, etc. These last varieties of Gulf cotton some- 
what resemble the poorer Sea Island grades. Peeler is one of the 
best of the Gulf cottons that are raised in sufficient amounts to be 
of commercial value. It is long, silky, and of bluish white color, 
generally combed, and a fine working cotton, somewhat similar in 
that respect to Egyptian. Gulf cotton, as a rule, ranges from 1|- 
to 1| inches in length of staple, though some of the better varie- 
ties are longer. Gulf cotton is used for warps from 30 to 50, and 
for fillino' from 50 to TO. 



COTTON FIBER. 19 



Upland Cotton. This is the most common and useful cotton 
grown and constitutes the greater part of tlie world's crop. The 
fibers are very uniform in length ; color generally good, and is a 
stx'ong, reliable cotton. This cotton is grown in Georgia, North 
and South Carolina, Alabama and Virginia. There are many 
varieties of Upland cotton, taking their names from States or 
localities where they are grown. Upland cotton is used for warp 
yarns up to 38 and for filling to 48. Upland staple ranges from |- 
inch to \^ inches in length, a large portion reaching 1|- inches. 
The average price for middling Upland 1-| inches for the year 
1900 was $.0896+ per pound. 

Texas cotton is somewhat similar to Upland, but slightly 
shorter and more harsh, though of very good quality. The char- 
acter of the crop varies largely from year to year. During a dry 
year it is likely to be unusually harsh, short and brittle, and is 
often "tinged" or off color. The production of Texas cotton 
is increasing, and more care is constantly being given to its culti- 
vation and preparation. Texas cotton is especially suited for warp 
yarns from 24 to 36. Length of staple from |- inch to 1\ inches. 
This is the best of American cottons for use in mixing with wool. 
Principal market, Galveston. 

Peruvian cotton is comparatively little used in this countrJ^ 
Jt is very harsh and wiry. Red Peruvian is a deep reddish brown 
in color, the white Peruvian being of a cream tint. The small 
amount that is consumed is used largely for woolen adulteration, 
as the fiber more nearly resembles w^ool in feeling than that of any 
cotton grown. 

QRADINQ. 

The grading of cotton is entirely a matter of judgment and 
experience, and no definite rules can be given. The cotton 
grader is one who from long experience and numberless compar- 
isons has educated his eye and hand to distinguish between the 
grades and recognize the differences in quality which would add 
to or detract from the market value of the cotton. Cotton is 
universally sold (except in some districts of the South) by 
samples and not by inspection of the bales. It is also graded in 
the same way. 



20 COTTON FIBER. 



In grading cotton tlie principal points to be taken into con- 
sideration are: First, the strengtli and evenness in length of tlie 
staple; second, its freedom from "neps," "leaf-motes," sand and 
other foreign substances, and third, the color or evenness of color. 

The strength of the staple is imj^ort-.int in determining the 
grade, as that is one of the principal points of value of the stock. 

The evenness in length is also very important, for a cotton 
that is of good average length and that is clean ma}^ contain a 
large proportion of very -short fibers, in which case tlie strength of 
the yarn is considerably diminished. 

The freedom of the cotton from foreign impurities is one of the 
principal factors in determining the grade, for not only must the 
impurities be considered as waste, but their removal, if present in 
considerable amounts, adds greatly to the cost of the manufac- 
tured product. The presence of foreign matter is largely due to 
carelessness in picking and ginning. A certain amount of leaf, 
boll, husk, seed aiid sand is present in any cotton, and if this 
amount is considerable the grade of the cotton is lowered accord- 
ingly. The presence of "neps," "motes" and immature fibers 
also detracts from the value of the cotton and influences the 
grading. 

"Neps" are tangled fibers or minute panglens of several 
fibers.' Their appearance is that of a smill white "fleck," hardly 
larger than a grain of sand, which, if examined under a micro- 
scope, will be found to consist of a ball of fibers so rolled and 
knotted together as to make their separation an impossibilit}'. 
" Neps " are caused by improper ginning when found in cotton 
samples, though they are often produced in the manufacturing- 
process in the picker and card. 

" Motes " are minute pieces of seed, or immature seeds, and 
are hard to remove in tlie process of manufacture, especially if 
they are "bearded mote.i," or small pieces of seed to which 
adheres the downy seed covering. 

Another condition to be taken into consideration in the grad- 
ing is the color of the cotton. A pure white cotton is desirable, 
and it is important that tlie color or tint shall be uniform through- 
out a lot of cotton. This is especially true if the cotton is to be 
used for filling yarn, as in this case it will show largely on the 



COTTON FIBER. 21 

face of the goods, for it is used witliout any dressing or sizing, 
■wliich iiiigbt effect or modify its color. Sliould a sample of 
cotton sliow portions that were stained, or off color, the grading 
would suffer accordingly, and in some cases the cotton would be 
classed as " tinged." 

Cotton is usually graded according to a standard agreed upon 
in the leading cotton markets. The American system consists of 
seven /it/? grades, the best of which is "fair." They are : 

Fair 

Middling- Fair 

Good Middling- 
Middling 

Low Middling 

G-ood Ordinary 

Ordinary 
These grades are subdivided into quarter, half and three- 
quarter grades, which express the minutest difference in condition 
and cleanliness. In the market the quarter and three-quarter 
grades are seldom recognized. The quarter, ■ half and three- 
quarter grades are expressed by the prefixes, "barely," "strict" 
and "fulljr." 

The foil-owing table presents the gradings of American cotton 
in as comprehensive a manner as possible : 

QUARTEIt GR.\DE. H.VLF GRADE. ' THRBE-QUABTER GRADE. 

Barely Fair Strict Middling Fair Fully Middling Fair 

Barely Middling Fair Strict Oond Jliddling Fully Good Middling 

Barely Good Middling Strict Midaiing Fully Middling 

Barely Middling Strict Luw Middling Fully Low Middling 

Barely Low Middling Strict Good Ordinary Fully Good Ordinary 

Barely Good Ordinary Strict Ordinary Fully Ordinary 

FULL GRADE. 

Middling Fair 
Good Middling 
Middling 
Low Middling 
Good Ordinary 
Ordinary 
Eoyptian cotton is commonly divided into four grades. Tliey 

are ; 

Good 

Fully Good Fair 

Go,od Fair 

Fair 



S9 



■1-2 COTTON FIBER. 

Brazilian and Peruvian cotton usually have these grades : 
Good Fail- 
Fair 
Middling Fair 

It will be seen from the foregoing that grade really means 
the appearan.ce of the cotton, particularly as to cleanliness. 

In buying cotton for mill use there are several important 
points to be considered. First, the length of the staple. Second, 
the strength of the staple. Third, the uniformity in length. 

These facts are determined by a process known as " pulling 
cotton." This process consists of grasping a small amount of 
cotton with both hands and pulling it apart. One-half is then 
thrown away, and the ends of the fibers projecting from the half 
which is retained are grasped between the thumb and forefinger 
of the right hand with the thumb held uppermost and drawn from 
the mass in the left hand, which is discarded. We now -have a 
tuft of cotton held at one end between the thumb and forefinger 
of the right hand. With the left hand this tuft of fibers is 
straightened out, the short fibers removed and the ends grasped 
with the left hand. ' The right hand, or tiie forefinger and thumb 
of the right hand, now straighten out the projecting fibers and re- 
move the shorter fibsrs, leaving a little tuft of cotton, the fibers 
of which are particularly uniform in length and parallel. This tuft 
of straightened fibers can be measured to determine the length of 
staple. They can be broken by firmly grasping the ends with the 
forefinger and thumb of both hands, and the powder required to 
break gives the expert an idea of the strength of the staple. The 
amount of short fiber removed in the pulling process determines 
approximately the proportion of short fiber in the sample. 

Something of harshness, strength and spinning qualities of 
cotton is sometimes determined by noting the sound produced 
by pulling apart a bunch of cotton held close to the ear. 

■ After the length, strength and evenness have been determined, 
the next points are : The amount of sand and foreign matter con- 
tained ; the proportion of unripe fibers ; the color and evenness 
of color, and the amount of moisture. 

In examining a cotton sample to determine the amount of 
impurity contained, it is fair to assume that a proportion of the 
sand and dirt has been shaken out in the handling which a cotton 



COTTON FIBER. 23 



sample receives, and on that account the sample will be slightly 
_cleaaer than the orio-in il stDjk. The amount of dirt in the cotton 
must, however, be determined by the appearance of .the sample 
and the amount of sand and dirt on the paper in which the 
sample is wrapped. 

Unripe fibers can be detected by the eye on a,ccount of their 
semitransparent, glossy appearance. " Neps " and "motes" are 
also evident on close examination and inspection of the sample. 

The color of a cotton simple can best be determined by com- 
parison, and for such comparisons a north light is desirable. A 
sample of cotton may seem oE good color when examined alone, 
and show a very decided tint when compared with other cotton 
or with an object which is a clean white. The presence of blue 
paper near a cotton sample has a tendency to neutralize the 3'ellow 
tint and make cotton appear a pure, white. 

" Tinged " cotton is cotton which is stained in spots from the 
action of the juices from the crushed seed or plant, or from 
the presence of coloring matter from the soil. Tinged cotton 
should be avoided, especially for the manufacture of white goods. 

The amount of moisture contained in the cotton cannot be 
determined from the sample unless the sample be freshly drawn, 
which is seldom the case. The odor (if mildew, which is easily 
detected, is an indication of excess of moisture in the bale from 
which the sample is drawn. 

In examining a bile of cotton at the mill, and in comparing it 
with the sample by which the cotton was sold, which is commonly 
done, the amount of moisture contained, if excessive, is easily 
determined by the feeling of the cotton, or by holdii.j a handful 
against the face. A more correct method of determining the 
amount of moisture is by the " furnace test." 

In this case a handful of cotton from the bale is very care- 
fully weighed on delicate scales and the weight noted. The cotton 
is then subjected to the heat of a gas oven for several hours, at a 
temperature from 170° to 180°, and weighed again. This gives 
the entire amount of moisture in the cotton. The cotton is now 
allowed to remain for some time in the air, under normal condi- 
tions, until it has absorbed a reasonable amount of moisture from 
the air, after wliicli it is again weighed. The difference between 



24 COTTON FIBER. 



the first and List weighing gives tlie excess of moisture in the 
cotton, which is often from two to- four per cent. A certain 
amount of moisture is desirable in working the stock, but manu- 
facturers do not care to pay for large amounts of water. (From 
five to eight per cent of moisture is normal.) 

One very important condition to be kept in mind, in selecting 
cotton for mill u^e, is to see that the samples are "even running " 
as to length of staple. In other words, to see that one or more 
bales of longer or shorter staple have not been mixed in with the 
cotton. Lino'-staple cotton is more valuable than short staple, all 
other conditions being equal, but the presence of long staple with 
the short causes an endless amount of trouble and annoyance in the 
mill, as will be explained later, and on that account great care is 
exercised to be sure that the cotton in the several bales of one lot 
is of about the same length of staple. 

The purchase of cotton by the mills of New England is gen- 
erally made from November to February inclusive, at which time 
it is not unusual for a year's supply to be secured. 

Cotton is generally sold to .Nortliern manufacturers on cash 
terms and delivered at New York, Fall River or Boston. The 
cotton is invoiced at gross weight, no allowance being made for 
bagging and ties. Cotton shipped to England, or " The Conti- 
nent," is invoiced at net weiglit, as it is the custom to piu'chase it 
in that manner in those countries. 

In invoicing cotton, oi' in purchasing cotton, the variety, 
grade and length of staple are mentioned as well as the number 
of bales and the weight of each. An order for cotton miglit read 
as follows: One liundred bales, Georgia Midland, Strict JNliddling. 
inch and one-eighth, or 

500 Bales — Texas — Low Middling — One inch. 

OPENING AND MIXING. 

The opening of the American bale simply consists in cutting 
the ties, removing the bagging and ties, and breaking up and 
shaking out the condensed mass of cotton. When the bale is 
opened, the contents will be found in sheets, or layers, of condensed 
cotton, due to the pi-essure exerted in baling. This cotton is hard 
and compact, and before use must be allowed to e-x^sand. One 



COTTOX FIBER 



25 



advantage claimed for the round lap bale is that several bales can 
be unrolled and fed to the opener, or breaker picker, at the same 
time. In tliis case, howevei", the mixing is not as extensive as it 
is wlien the cotton is taken from a pile consisting of many bales. 
There is a machine in general use in England, but compara- 
tively little known in this Country, called the Bale Breaker. This 
machine takes the condensed sheets of cotton as they come from 
the bale and tears them apart, delivering them in smaller pieces, 
and allowing the cotton to open or expand in the process. The 
bale breaker, a common type of which is shown in Fig. 9, con- 
sists of an endless apron, or lattice, on which the sheets of cotton 




from the bale are placed. Directly in front of this traveling lat- 
tice is a revolving feed roll which grasps the cotton from the 
lattice and passes it over the pedals to the fii-st pair of Anted and 
toothed I'olls. There are usually three pairs of these I'olls running 
at increased speeds. As the cotton passes from the back to the 
front of the machine the mass is pulled apart. 

The.-;e rolls are driven by spur geaiing and are positive in 
their action ; the top roll in each case being weighted by stiff coil 
springs. The surface speed of the middle pair of rolls is about 
three times that of the back roll, and of tlie front roll al)out seven 
times that of the middle roll, which gives the surface speed of the 
front roll about twenty-one times that of the back roll, or a draft 



26 



COTTON FIBER. 



of twenty-one. The draft of the bale breaker, or the relation of 
the surface speeds of the front and back roll, varies according to 
conditions, but is commonly twenty to one to thirty to one, or a 
draft of from twenty to thirty. 

Another form of bale breaker is shown in Fig. 10. In this 
case a swiftly revolving beater with projecting arms is employed 
to still further open the cotton and remove a portion of the 
heavier impurities. 

The first process in the cotton mill after the bales have been 
opened is the mixing. This is, or should be, a part of the process 
of every mill, but in some cases its importance is underestini ited. 
By mixing we do not necessarily mean only the mixing of differ- 




ent grades or varieties of colton, but tlie mixing of different bales 
of the same grade and variety. This is absolutely necessary to 
produce the best results, for even when the different bales are of 
the same variety, the same grade, and grown in the same locality, 
and supposed to be of tlie same length of staple, there are likely 
to be found slight differences in length, color and condition. 

There is also a great difference in the amount of moisture in 
different bales. Some are too dry to work well and some too 
moist, and by mixing, the dry absorbs some of the moisture from 
the damp bales, and a better average condition is secured. The 
mixing also allows the " opening up " or expanding of the con- 
densed cotton, leaving it in better shape for the action. of the 
beaters in the picking process. The common method of mixing 
in this country is to provide extensive floor space back of the 



34 



COTTON FIBER. 27 



feeders. The larger the better within reasonable limits. When 
the bales are opened, a sheet or armful of cotton is taken from one 
or more bales and scattered evenly over the floor. This is re-, 
peated with cotton from other bales until a pile or stack is formed 
containing enough cotton for several days' run. This pile of 
cotton is composed of many thin layers, each layer representing a 
bale, more or less. When this cotton is fed to the machines it is 
taken in as nearly vertical sections as possible, so that each armful 
will contain parts of several bales. In this way a very thorough 
mixing is secured, giving a uniform condition of cotton from start 
to finish. Large mixings are to be preferred to small ones ; the 
size being limited iu many instances only by the floor space 
available. 

Many modifications of this process are to be found. in dif- 
ferent cotton mills. In some cases tlie bales are opened in the 
storehouse, and the cotton from several bales fe,d into the ho[)per 
of a distributor. From here the cotton is drawn by an air cnrrent 
through sheet metal pipes and delivered on the floor of the picker- 
room back oi^the feeders. 

In some cases the mixing is done in large bins which have 
movable floors, so that, as the cotton is used, the stack can be 
moved forward to be at all times within convenient distance of the 
feeders, and mixing can be carried on at the back of the bin. In 
this case the cotton from several bales is thrown into the bin 
through a hole in the floor above. Witli this arrangement the 
mixing is a continuous operation and can be performed at the 
back of the bin while the cotton from the front is being used. 

In English spinning mills there are in many instances elab- 
orate preparations for very large mixings ; in some cases sufficient 
amounts to last during a month's run. This is necessary on ac- 
count of using so many different grades and varieties of cotton, in 
which case the mixing of several kinds at a different price, each to 
produce a -certain result at a certain cost, becomes a fine art. 

Variation in color or tint in the yarn produced is less liable 
to occur where large mixings are used. 

When different cottons should be mixed in exact proportions, 
or when a combination of colored and white cotton is used to pro- 
duce a certain tint, the mixing can be done more correctly at the 



COTTON FIBEK. 



intermediate or finisher picker. This will be explained more 
fully later. If mixed in the stack, the proportion of each would 
not run evenly from start to finish, therefore producing yarn 
which would vary slightly in color from time to time. 



COTTON SPINNING. 

PART I. 



OPENING AND PICKING. 

When upland cotton has been ginned, it is made ready for 
transjjovtation into loosely jDacked bales, in which form it is often 
nsed in nearby cotton mills, but for shipment to any distance, by 
railroad or steamship, the bales are collected at some central point 
and compressed hy heavy presses and made less bulky, saving 
much space. 

The dimensions of the standard bale are 54 inches length by 
27 inches width, the thickness depending upon the' pressure to 
which it has been subjected, and is intended to weigh 500 
pounds. But, as a fact, the bales vary from 52 to 72 inches in 
lengtli, from 24 to 30 inches in width, 18 to 24 inches in thick- 
ness, and weigh from 400 to 600 pounds. 

They are covered with bagging and bound with hoop-iron 
bands, or ties, fastened together by iron buckles. The bagging 
is of such coarsely woven stuff that it is very easily torn and 
offers but scant protection against dust, rain and fire, and, as tlie 
bales are often allowed to stay in a cotton yard some time before 
shipment, the cotton on the surface becomes very much dam- 
aged. It is certain that this method of baling and handling can- 
not add to the value of the cotton, and custom alone seems respon - 
sible for it. 

Anotlier form iii which cotton is packed is the " round bale." 
These, as the name implies, are cylindrical, and are of two 
lengths, 35 and 48 inches ; and 22 and 25 inches, respectively, in 
diameter. They are made by feeding the cotton to a revolving- 
core, or arbor, which is held in position between two iron rolls by 
a heavy rubber belt. One of the rolls is stationary and the 
other, which is kept firmly held against the bale by hydraulic 
pressure, recedes as the bale increases in size. The friction of the 
belt and rolls causes the bat to be wound into a hard, firm roll, 



COTTON SPINNING. 



wliicli weighs aljout 35 pounds to the cubic foot. When the biile 
hu.s leaclifd the full diameter, and before it is removed fr.om tlie 
press, it is wound with one turn of cotton cloth, wliich is sewed on. 

Cotton that is grown in different localities varies in quality, 
and as bales from widely separated districts are likely tp be used 
in the same mill, careful selection is necessary, ^^'ide expeiience 
and good judgment are required to get the be-t n-sults. 

To obtain as nearl}'^ as possible uniformity in quality, length 
of staple, and, for some varieties of woik, color, and the cotton is 
mixed ; that is, the bales to be used are placed on edge, the ties 
and bagging removed. They are then turned on their sides, and 
a sheet of cotton taken from each in turn, by hand, and thrown 
into the cotton bin, ready for the opener. By this means an 
average is obtained. 

Cotton which is to be spun into fine yarn must be long 
staple, umform in color, and clean, while that to be used for 
goods Avhich are to be bleached may require long staple, while 
color and cleanliness are not so essential, but no rule for mixing 
the different varieties and grades can be followed. Some mills 
use lower grades of stock than others for the same class of work 
with apparently equally good results. 

In many of the smaller mills it is the custom to mix enough 
cotton to last three or four days, or even longer, if space in the 
opening and mixing room will permit, and, by allowing it to air 
for several clan's, an equalization of the moisture in the whole 
mass takes place. In large mills, on the contrary, it is usually the 
practice, because of the amount consumed, to take the cotton from 
the bales and throw it directly into the feeder of the opener. It 
is not necessary to air the cotton, as it is bought in large quantities 
and stored in cotton houses, where it ofton remains for a long 
period and is therefore partially dried. 

Opening' and picking, which is the first mechanical process 
tlie cotton undergoes, is, briefly stated, the removal of as much 
foreign substance as possible with the least injury to the fibers. 
The foreign substances found are particles of sand, which have 
been blown about and have become lodged in the " bolls ; dirt, 
which, during a heavy rain has spattei'ed upon the bolls, which 
groNY low upon the stalks; particles of dried leaves and stalks, 



COTTON SPIZSTNING. 



gathered iii picking, and pieces of seed and iiusks, broken in 
ginning. 

The various styles of machines used in piclving differ but 
slightly in principle and design, each having siine features pecul- 
iar to each particular make. They are arranged, generally, in 
sets of two, three or four, the number of sets depending upon tlie 
production required and the number of machines in each set; 
upon the quality and condition of the stock being worked, very 
dirty cotton requiring, of course, more picking and cleaning. 

There are four systems into which the operation of picking 
may be divided : 

1. That in which jJart of the machinery is on one floor and 
part on another. 

%. That ill whicli all of the machinery is on one fioor and no 
deaning trunk is used. 

3. Til at in irhich all of the machinery is on one floor and a 
cleaning trunk is used. 

Jf. That in which the hales are opened in an adjoining build- 
ing, or room and the cotton is " hlo'wn " into the 2}icker room. 

The arrangement of the several machines necessary in each 
system depends upon the location of the carding machinery; the 
aim being to have the laps delivei'ed from the finisher picker upon 
the same floor, and as near the cards as possible, in order to save 
ti.meand expense in canying them about and to avoid any unnec- 
essary handling of the cotton. This, of course, cannot be done 
always, especially in some of the old mills, but in planning a new 
one this should be borne in mind. 

SYSTEM OISE. 

Fig. 1 is a plan of the opening 2'oom of a modern cotton mill 
equipped with two sets of picking machinerj', arranged on the 
three-process system, a style in use in many mills at the present 
time. Fig. 2 is a plan of the second floor of the same mill, and 
Fig. 3 is a sectional elevation. 

The machines on tlie fii'st floor are an automatic feeder, A, 
connected to an opener, B : and on the second floor are a single 
beater breaker picker, D, with a condenser and gauge-box, a single 
beater intermediate picker, E, and a single beater finisher picker, 



COTTOISr SPINNING. 



F. A cleaning trunk, C, connects the opener on the first floor 
with the breaker on the second. 

Beneath the opening-room is the dust-room, into whicli the 




dust, dirt and fine particles of cotton are discharged from the 
picker by fans, through the galvanized iron pipes, H. These 
pipes are provided with an automatic closing damper, K, wliieh is 




> s 



COTTON SPINNING. 



kept open while the picker is running by the pressure of air 
in the pipe, but when the machine is stopped the pressure ceases, 
and the damper closes of its own weight, assisted by the pressure 
in the dust room, produced by the other fans. This automatic 
closing of the damper prevents the dust and dirt from, blowing 
back into any machine not running. 

The dust-i'oom is provided with a flue, or chiumey, whicli 
leads through tlie roof and Avhich should have an area of about 3 
square feet for each fan. It usually occupies all of the space beneath 
the opening-room the floor should be cemented, and the over- 
head woodwork covered with tin or any fireproof material. The 
heavy dust and leaf settle to the floor,, while the liglit dirt passes 
out with the air. 

In the systems shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the cotton is 
thrown into the hopper of the automatic feeder. A, and is then 
delivered to tiie feed apron of the ojaener, B, by which it is car- 
ried forward between the- feed, rolls to the beater. Most openers 
have a three-bladed beater about 20 inclies in diameter. Beneath 
the beater is a grid, over which the dirt is driven as the cot- 
ton is drawn through its surface and up through the cleaning- 
trunk, C, to the breaker picker, D. The starting aud stopping of 
the feed of both opener and feeder are controlled by the breaker 
picker. 

Tlie cleaning trunk is provided with a giid surface, over 
which the cotton passes to the breaker picker. The dirt, Avhich is 
heavier than the cotton, settles between the grids into pockets 
directly beneath, Avliich cau be cleaned out when necessary. 

The cotton enters the breaker picker through a condenser 
and gauge-box, which delivers it to the feed apron. It then 
passes forward through the feed rolls to the beater, which is 
usually three-bladed, where it receives a most thorough cleaning. 
Passing forward over inclined grid bars, through which some of 
the loose dh-t falls, it is deposited upon two slowly revolving 
cages or screens. From these cages it is drawn forward between 
several calender rolls, formed into a sheet and wound upon a lap 
roll. Tliis is the first formation of a lap in the process. 

The laps from the breaker are now taken to the intermediate 
picker, E, to undergo another cleaning and picking. Four laps 



COTTON SPINNING. 



are placed upon tlie apron of this niacliine, this being tlie first 
doubling of the laps. The ctitton next passes through the inter- 
mediate and is formed into a lap in the same manner as m the 
breaker picker. From the intermediate it passes to the third 




machine, the finisher picker, F, which is substantiallj^ the same as 
the two previously mentioned machines, the laps being doubled 
four into one on the apron. Here the cotton is formed iirto a 



COTTON" .SPINNING. 



finished lap, ready for the card. As before stated, both the mter- 
mediate and finisher pickers are generally provided with eveiiers, 
several styles of wliicli will be shown. 




The Old Style Feeder contrasts strongly with the present 
automatic or hopper feeder, and a description of it may be interest- 
ing to some. In the old way the feed apron was divided off 



10 COTTON SPINNING. 

eveiy yard or two, usually by painting some of the apron slats a 
darker color than the rest, and the attendant would place an arm- 
ful of cotton on a pair of scales set to some particular weiglit 
and then spread the amomit between the divisions on the apron. 
The attendants were often careless, sometimes the Aveight of their 
arms was included, while at other times they simply went through 
the motions of ■weighing, not even looking to see if the scales 
balanced or not. Frequently'-, when pressed for time, they would 
take an armful from a bale and throw it on the apron, regardless 
of the amount. It will readilj^ be' seen that this method could 
not be satisfactory-. 

The Automatic Feeder and Opener. Fig. 4 shows an auto- 
matic feeder connected to an opener. The hopper A is kept about 
two-thirds full, in order that the cotton shall be fed as evenlj^ as 
possible. The bottom of the hopper is formed by a horizontal 
apron, B, called the bottom apron, or lattice, by which the cotton 
is carried forward against the elevating apron C^, which runs in 
an almost vertical position, and which is supported at intervals 
by carrier rolls, and consists of a heavy canvas' belt backed with 
leather strips, to which are fastened wooden slats. Projecting 
from these slats are pins, by which the cotton is caught and car- 
ried upwards. At the top of the elevating apron is situated the 
spike roll D, which is about six inches in diameter and has steel 
pins or spikes projecting about three-fourths of an inch from its 
surface. The object of this roll is that it should strike off any 
surplus bunches of cotton which cling to the elevating apron, and 
to regulate the amount of cotton carried forward to tlie opener. 
Around the spike roll runs an endless leather apron, E, called the 
spike-roll apron, which has slots or openings in it corresponding 
ill position to the pins of the roll, and through which the pins pro- 
ject as the a23ron passes around the roll. Any cotton that is dis- 
posed to collect on the pins is readily stripped off by this means. 

The amount of cotton which is delivered to the opener is 
regulated by the position of the sj^ike roll, which is adjustable 
.horizontal!}' ; tluis, the greater the space between it and the elevat- 
ing apron, the more cotton is allowed to pass. In order that the 
spike roll shall stand parallel to the elevating apron, and that the 
roll shall be moved parallel with it when changing. its position, 



COTTOX SPINNING.. 



11 



indexes are placed on the outside of either sifle o£ the hopper, by 
whicli the exact position may be noted. Between the lower end 
of the elevating apron and tlie end of tlie bottom apron is a space 
uf about 1 1- inches, whicli allows dirt and foreign substances to 
fall tiu'ougb into the hopper screen. .This screen can be dropped 
and the dirt removed. 

The cotton which is left upon the pins of the elevating apron, 
after it has passed the spike roll, is next acted upon by the doffer, 
F. Tljis is driven from a countershaft by tlie belt, K, and is 
about 15 inches in diameter, and has, extending across its whole 




Fip'. 4. Section of Automatic Feeder and Opener. 

face, fonr wooden blades faced with leather, which are sliglitly in 
contact with the pins of the elevating apron, and, as the doffer 
runs about 160 revolutions per minute, a continuous series of 
l)lows is given, by which the cotton is stripped or beaten from the 
pins and thrown against a screen or grid directly beneath the 
doifer, called the doffer screen, through which any loose dirt will 
fall. Beneath the doffer sci'een is a dust drawer, G, which ]-eceives 
(Inst and dirt tliat is beaten out by the doffer. From the doffer 



47 



12 



COTi'ON SPINNING-. 



screen the cotton passes down an incline on to the feed apron of 
the opener, H, being assisted by the current of air jaroduced by 
the doifer. 




The cotton is next carried forward by tlie feed ajiron, pass- 



48 



COTTON SPINNING. 



13 



ing under the press roll, L, to the feed rolls, N. The press roll 
condenses the cotton, that it may be drawn readily between the 
feed rolls, which, being small in diameter, could not receive it in a 
loose form. After passing the feed rolls the cotton is acted upon 
by the blades of the rigid beatei', P. This consists of three steel 
blades running across the width of the machine,' which are 
securely riveted to four or five sets of arms or spiders, which are 
fastened to the beater shaft. These blades are- beveled slightly 




Fig. 6. Section of Horizoutal Cleaning Trunk, 
on each edge, but not enough to cut the cotton, and as they 
become dulled by constant use the beater can be reversed in its 
bearings and the other edges brought into' use, both ends of the 
beater shaft being made alike for this purpose. 

The beater generally runs 1,200 revolutions per minute, there- 
fore each inch of cotton deliveied by the feed rolls receives a 
great many blows, by which it is opened, cleaned and reniovecl 
from the rolls in small tafts, which are thrown with considerable 




Fig. 7. Same as al)Ove, with pocliets Dropped for Cleauing. 
force ngamst the beater grid, iM. Thus the diit, seed and heavy 
impurities, which are struck down with the cotton, fall between 
the bars into the space below, while the cotton, which is very 
light, is prevented from passing through with the dirt by the cur- 
rent of air which draws it through the trunk to the breaker and 
which is produced by the fan in tlie gauge-box section of the 
breaker. 



49 



14 COTTON SPINNING. 



Horizontal Cleaning Trimlc. Figs. 5, 6 and 7 show details of 
the trunk connecting the opener and breaker picker. Fig. 5 shows 
the whole length of the grid, or cleaning surface, 40 feet being 
usually sufficient for all but very dirty stock. The trunk is hung 
from the under side of the floor above by rods, R, placed about 10 
feet apart, lengthwise, and upon each side. As many of the fires 
which occur in the picker room are caused by the beater in ths 
opener striking some hard substance, means must be provided lo 
prevent injury to the trunk, which, being of wood, takes fire 
very easily ; hence automatic sprinklers, S, are placed at inter- 
vals along the top of the trunk opening into the passage 
through which the cotton is drawn, a very slight fire causing the 
sprinklers to operate. At one end of the trunk is a galvanized 
iron pipe, M, connected to a fan, L. This is for cleaning the trunk, 
Avhich must be done regularly. Usually the fan is connected to 
the end of the trunk nearest the opener, as the greater portion of 
dirt falls out of the cotton before it reaches the farthest end of the 
grid surface ; but for convenience it is sometimes connected to 
the other end, and in order to show the arrangement Avithout 
obstrvrcting the view of the opener, it is placed in this position in 
"Figs. 1, 3 and 5. 

Enlarged sections of tlie trunk are shown in Figs. and 7. 
The trunk is divided vertically into three sections. The top one, 
C, through which the cotton passes to the breaker, is separated 
from the middle one by a- grid surface, B. The middle section 
consists of a series of pockets, or compartments, A, into Avhicli the 
dirt and leaf settle as the cotton passes slowly over the grid. The 
bottom of these pockets, D, is hinged at one side, the hinge being 
connected to a handle, E, on the outside of the trunk, which is 
held in a closed position by a spring, J. The lower section of 
the trunk F is a passage, connected to the exhaust fan 1^ by the 
pipe M. The bottom of the pockets opens into tliis passage, 
which is closed at both ends by the doors G and N. 

When it becomes necessary to clean the trunk, which is done 
from two to fovrr times a day, the feed on the opener is usually 
stopped. The fan L, which is driven separately from tlie opener, 
from a countershaft, is started, and the doors G and N opened 
as shown in Fig. 7, this producing a strong current of air through 



50 



COTTON SPINNING. 15 

the lower section or passage leading to the fan. The springs on 
the outside of the trunk, which hold the bottom of the pockets in 
position, are pressed and release the handles' and allow the bottom 
of the pockets to fall into a vertical position, as shown at D^ in 
Fig. 7. The refuse falls into the passage and is carried along 
by the air current and discharged into the dust room. Every 
other pocket is usually taken at one cleaning. 

Breaker Picker with Condenser and G-auge-hox. When the 
breaker picker is located at some distance from the opener 
and is connected by a trunk, as in Figs. 1; 2 and 3. There must 
be considerable • cotton in transit between them when they are 
in operation. ' As the feed of the opener is stopped, usually, 
for a brief period while doffing the breaker, it is evident tliat the 
cotton in the trunk would be drawn, forward and deposited upon 
the apron of the breaker. This would cause a thick place to be 
formed in the first part of the next lap wound, followed immedi- 
ately by a thin place, while the cotton is being drawn along the 
trunk. This is, of course, for a short time only, but in order to 
insure tlie laps being free from any irregularities in weight from 
sucli cause, the receiving end of the breaker is provided with a 
condenser and gauge-box, which is shown in the section of tliP 
breaker picker in Fig. 8. 

In the top of the condenser is a revolving screen, or cage, A, 
on the inside of which is a stationary shield, or cradle, B, which 
covers a little more than one-half of its surface, the air current 
passes through the perforations of the cage not closed b}' the 
cradle. The cotton, which enters from the trunk C through 
the top of the condenser box, is deposited upon the open side 
of the cage. Each end of this cage opens directly into a dust 
passage, D (shown by dotted lines), on the outside of the gauge- 
box. The air passes out through the ends of the cage and down 
this dust passage to the fan E, from which it is forced out through 
the pipe H to the dust room. 

As the screen revolves slowly, the cotton whicii is deposited 
upon its surface is brought around between the screen and the 
roll F. At this point the cradle covers the screen, preventing 
the passage of air; tlie cotton is thus very readily stripped from 
its surface, being assisted by the roll Gr, whose surface runs in 



16 COTTOX SPINNING. 

the opposite direction to tlie surface of the cage. The cotton 
passes between the rolls, F and G, and falls upon the feed apron, J. 

It will be seen that the roll, G, is held rigidl}^ in its bearing.s, 
but the roll, F, is supported at either end by a lever, G', which is 
centered at F^. The shoi-t end of this lever carries the roll, while 
the long end, being heavier, keeps it pressed against the cage, sub- 
ject to the varying thickness of the cotton passing through. 

The gauge-box is divided into front and back compartments, 
M and K, by a swinging partition, L, which regulates the amount 
of cotton allowed to pass forward on the feed apron. The front 
compartment, wliich receives the cotton as it falls from the con- 
denser roll, is usually about half full, but Avith the stopping of 
the breaker and feed of the opener, the cotton is drawn out of the 
trunk and fills this compartment. Any surplus will fall over into 
the back compartment, and can be removed by opening a door at 
Ivi. With the starting of the breaker, the cotton that is contained 
in the front compartment serves as a source of supply until the 
cotton comes through the trunk. By nai'rowing the front com- 
partment by the swinging partition, L, the feed may be made 
lighter, as a smaller portion of the surface of tlie feed apron will 
be covered. The position of the partition is regulated by a pin 
which fits into a series of holes drilled in the under side of the 
board, L^, which forms the bottom of the compartment, K. 

From the feed apron the cotton is drawn between the feed 
rolls, N^ and N^, and brought into cohtaict with the blades of the 
rigid beater, P. This beater, which is constructed in the same 
manner as the one previously described in the opener, runs about 
1,500 revolutions per minute. The object of this beater is to con- 
tinue opening and cleaning, the dirt being driven down between 
the bars of the beater grid, G^, by the force of the blows it receives 
from the blades of the beater. 

It Avill now be seen that a double operation is going on, the 
cotton being draAvn along by tire air draft, while the heavy im- 
purities are being driven through the grid against the air draft 
which enters from below and jDasses up between the bars. 

The speed of tlie fan, F, whicli is about 1,000 revolutions per 
minute, plays an important pai't in separating the dirt from the 
cotton. If the draug-ht is not strong enough the cotton will be 



COTTON SPINNING. 



17 



driven down through the grid witli the dirt, making too mucli 
waste, while if it is too strong, the dirt Avill be drawn along with 
the cotton into the lajD. 

The beater grid consists of stationary bars, which extend 
from side to side and around the beater for a quarter of its cir- 
cumference. The first bar under the bottom feed roll is set 
about I inch from the, circle described by the beater blade, while 




Fig. 8. Section of Breaker Picker, with Condenser and Gauge Box Section. 

the last bar is set about 1| inches away. The grid bars are sup- 
ported by brackets, which are adjustable, and are bolted to the 
frame. The space between the bars is graduated, those nearest 
the feed roll having the widest space between them, as the greater 
part of the dirt is removed before the cotton passes to the last of 
them. 



53 



18 COTTON SPINNING. 

The cotton is now under the influence of the fan draft, by 
which it is drawn forward over tlie inclined grate bars, R, and is 
collected upon the revolving cages, C^ and C^. The strip, N, 
which is faced with leather, prevents it from collecting above this 
point on the top cage. As the cotton passes over the inclined 
grate bars, the dust and dirt which are shaken out of it settle 
down between them into the box, T^. A dead-air space is formed 
by every fourth bar extending to the bottom of the box, thus pre- 
venting the dirt from being di-awn back into the cotton. The bot- 
tom of the box is kept up in position by the levei-, T, and the 
weight, W, as shown by dotted lines oir the outside of the picker. 
When it is necessary to clean out the box the Aveight is raised, 
allowing the bottom, which is hinged at one side, to swing down. 

The stripping plate, J^, by reason of behig set close to the 
beater, prevents the cotton from following around with the air 
current caused by the beater. The air draft passes out at both 
ends of the cages, through the openings, D^ and D^, and down 
the dust passage, Ei, (represented by dotted lines), to the fan, 
F. From this point the air is forced out through the pipe, H, 
into the dust-room. The cages thus form a screen wliicli assists 
in cleaning the cotton, the fine particles of dust and lint pass- 
ing through the perforations witli the air draft. The openings, 
Di and D^, can be closed by dampers when it is desired to throw 
the draft all on one side of the cages, as the lap sometimes be- 
comes thin on one edge. The perforations, or meshes, in the top 
cage are generally made larger than those in the bottom cage, thus 
allowing a greater passage of air through the top cage, and conse- 
quently a thicker sheet of cotton is formed. If the cotton is de- 
posited equally on each cage, although formed into one sheet by 
passing between, there is a tendency to separate, or split, when 
imroUed behind the finisher picker or card, but as the sheet from 
the top cage forms the inside face of the lap, this trouble is in a 
measure overcome. 

Another method for preventing the splitting of the laps, and 
which is in use by some builders of machinery, is to have the top 
cage considerably larger in diameter than the bottom one. By 
this means the exposed surface of tlie top cage is made larger 
and a thicker sheet of cotton is formed. When one cage is used 



COTTON SPINNIZSTG. 19 

in the fomiiitiou of a sheet the laps are not as likely to split, since 
there is only one surface npon wliich the cotton is deposited. 

From the cages the cotton is stripped off by the stripping 
rolls S/ and S^, and drawn between the calender rolls L^, L^, 
L* and L^, which are heavily weighted, and being slightly differ- 
ent in diameter, the faces of the lap are smoothed or ironed, which 
a}so tends to prevent them from splitting. After leaving the 
calender rolls the cotton passes forward under the press roll L^, 
and is wound on lap roll N^. This lap roll is held down by fric- 
tion and rests upon two fluted rolls, Y, called lap calender rolls, 
Avliich revolve and cause the lap roll to wind on the sheet of cot- 
ton as it comes from the calender rolls. The lap is thus wound 
very compactly and firmly. 

Leaving the breaker picker, the cotton passes through the 
intermediate and finisher pickers. The principle of these two 
machines, so far as the opening and cleaning is concerned, is the 
same as in the breaker picker, with the addition of an evener and 
a long feed apron. The design is also practically the same, differ- 
ing only in mechanical construction. 

When the donble-carding system was used almost wholly, not 
so much attention was given to the weight of the picker laps, but 
"with the increasing tendency towards spinning finer yarns, and 
the general introduction of the revolving fiat card, it became neces- 
sary to produce picker laps of a more uniform size and weight. 
This led to the adoption of single beater pickers instead of using 
two or three beater machines as formerly. 

The first operation of doubling is placing four laps upon the 
apron of the intermediate picker, so that the thin or light places 
will be distributed over its surface. If the laps from the breaker 
are unrolled and held to the light, there will be seen thick and 
thin places, and as they are not alwa3's in the same portion of the 
lap, by placing one lap over another Ave get a more even sheet, 
but one four times as thick. 

Intermediate and Finisher Pickers. A section of an inter- 
mediate picker is shown in Fig. 9. The laps M, B, A and G, from 
the breaker, rest upon the feed apron D, by which they are unrolled. 
It is advisable that they be of different diameters, so that a con- 
tinuous sheet four laps thick may pass through the feed rolls. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



If the laps are all oi the same diameter, or nearly so, there is a 
possibility of two or more running out at once, and, during the 
time required to replace them, a break is likely to occur in the 
continuity of the four thicknesses ; but with the laps of different 




diameters, the replacement of one, which can be done very quickly, 
makes "a break in the doubled laps -well-nigh impossible. The 
laps are carried forward on the feed a^sron, and are drawn between 



COTTON SPINNING. 



21 




Fiff. 10. Carding Beater. 



the evener roll, J, and the st'ctional plates, E, then between the 
feed rolls, N^ and N-. From this point the cotton is treated in 
exactly the same manner as in the 
breaker. The letters of reference are 
the same on the sections of both ma- 
chines. / 
The cotton when taken from tlie ' 
intermediate picker goes through the 
third process, that of the finisher picker. 
It is treated the same as in the previous 
machine, the only difference in the two 
machines being the carding beater, used 
generally in the finisher. 

Beaters. Of the different styles of pin beaters which have 
been in use from time to time, the carding beater gives the best 
results. A section of this beater is 
shown in Fig. 1 0. It will be seen that 
it consists of three wooden lags, A, 
\ securely fastened to the arms, C, of the 
I beater shaft. From these lags project 
/ steel pins, B, arranged spirally, each 
/ row being farther from the center than 
the row preceding it. The carding and 
beating action is combined in this beater, 
Fig. 11. Two-bladed Beater, the pins penetrating the tufts of cotton, 
thoroughly separatingand dividing them. 
In this way the cotton is deposited on the cages in a finer and more 
even sheet, and the work of the card 
is lessened slightly. Notwithstanding 
the claim made by many to the contrary, 
the carding beater is capable of remov- 
ing more dirt and leaf than the rigid 
beater. Figs. 11 and 12 show sections 
of two-bladed and three-bladed rigid 
beaters. In comparing them, it will be 
seen that the two-bladed one must be 
run at a higher speed to get the same 
number of blows per minute, and while 





12. Three-bladed Beater. 



22 



COTTON SPINNING. 



some object to this necessary liigli speed, it is cevtaiiilj' cheaper 
to construct this style. The three bhided beater is generally 
used on openers, and the two bladed on breakers, intermediates 
and finishers. 




Some of the rigid beaters are made with the edges of the 
blades of hardened steel, but these do not wear any better than 




a. X 



S S 



COTTON" SPIlSrNING. 



23 



the ordinary ones, and become dulled about as soon, and cannot 
be sharpened without grinding, which is considerable trouble, 
while the others can be sharpened by simply planing off the dulled 
edges. 

Picking Blaohinery on Different Floors. This is shown in 
the sectional elevation of a cotton mill in Fig. 13, which 
is very similar to the one sliown previouslj- in Fig. 3, also 




Fig. 14. Section of Inclined Cleaning Trunk, witli Pockets closed. 

a three-beater system. The horizontal cleaning trunk is dispensed 
with and . an inclined trunk used in its place. One end of this 
trunk is connected to an opener on the first floor, the other to a 
one-beater breaker picker, with a screen section on the second 
floor. The distance between the opener and the breaker is short 
and does not require a condenser and gauge-box to receive the 
cotton, otherwise the' machinery used is exactly the same as in 
Fig. 3. The inclined cleaning trunk is used quite extensively in 



24 



COTTON SPINNING. 



preference to the liorizontal one, as tlie length of grid, or cleaning, 
surface is considered by many to be sufficient for the I'cmoval of 
nearlj' all of the loose dirt, and the cleaning of this style of trunk 
can be very quickly accomplished. 

Inclined Cleaning Trunk. Fig. 1-1 shows a section of an 
inclined trunk, with the pockets closed, as when the machine 
is running. It is suspended from the floor above by rods R, 
and consists of two parts : the top jjassage C, through which the 




Fig-. 15. Section of lucliued Cleaning Trunk, with Pockets open. 



cotton passes from the opener to the breaker ; and the pockets D, 
which receive the dirt which falls out of the cotton. The top 
passage is provided, in case of fire, with an automatic sprinkler, 
S. The pockets are separated from the passage by the grid 
surface, which consists of flat iron slats placed edgewise and 
running across the trunk at right angles to the direction of the 
cotton in transit. As the cotton is drawn along by the air draft, 
each slat presents a narrow surface, against which it strikes, cans- 



COTTON SPINNING. 



25 



ing the dirt to be shaken out and to fall between them into the 
pockets. 

The bottom, E, of these pockets is made in one piece, extend- 
ing the whole length of the trunk, and is held up against the 
under side of them by levers G, which are fastened at each end of 
the bottom to a strip which runs along the under side. These 
levers are controlled by a handle, F, the bottom forming a connec- 
tion to the upper lever. Fig. 15 shows a trunk with this pockets 




Fig. 16. Section of Breaker Picker, with Screen Section. 

opened for cleaning. The handle is swung down into the position 
shown, which draws the bottom away from tlie under side of the 
pockets. The refuse slides down into a box, or basket, placed 
beneath the lower end of the trunk. Sometimes the trunk is 
provided with a connection, by which the dust is allowed to fall 
directly into the dust room. 

Breaker Picker with Screen Section. Vig. 16 shows a section 
of a breaker picker. The cotton enters from the trunk C, and is 
deposited upon two revolving screens, A and B, which form the 



26 



COTTON SPINNING. 



screen section and are simply for cleaning the cotton and form- 
ing it into a sheet, to be fed to the beater. As the distance 
traversed by the cotton between the opener and the breaker 




is short, -what little cotton there might be in the trunk would 
not materially affect the weight of the laps by the stopping 
of the feed of the opener while dolfing the breaker, and this may 



COTTON SPINNING. 



be entirely overcome by doffing witliout stopping tlie feed. Each 
screen is provided with an opening, D, at eacli end, which leads 
into a dust passage to the fan F, by which the dust and dirt 
are forced through the pipe H into the dust room. As the 
screens revolve, the cotton is carried arouiKl to the stripping rolls 
L and M, and removed by them. Passing forward between the 
feed rolls P and R, it comes into contact with the blades of the 
rigid beater T. From this point the cotton undergoes the same 
treatment as in the macliines previously described. 

Three-storied Mill Arrangement. Fig. 17 shows a sectional 
elevation witli a three-beater system. The openers and feeders are 
placed on the first floor and connected by a horizontal cleaning 
trunk. The breaker is fitted with a condenser and gauge-box, 
which provides for the long distance traversed by the cotton. 

The second floor is used for opening and mixing the cotton, 
after which it is dropped through a chutfe to the feeders on the 
floor below. It will be seen- that the fan for cleaning the trunk is 
upon brackets which, are fastened to the wall on the end of the 
trunk nearest the opener, instead of the opposite end, as in the 
first arrangement shown (Fig. 3). Sometimes only a part of 
the second floor is used for opening and mixing, while often the 
first floor is used for this purpose, and the second floor devoted to 
some other process. 

Another waj^ of arranging this system is to divide the first 
floor into sections, leaving only a small sjsace around the feeders 
for the cotton, the rest of the floor being used as a repair shop. 

When the pipes leading to the dust room pass through the 
rooms below, it is customary usually to bring them down near 
the side walls or some of the columns, in order that they shall be 
oat of the \^ay as much as possible. 

SYSTEM TWO. 

Fig. 18 shows an arrangement with all of the machinery on 
one floor, as when space is limited, and the cotton is opened and 
made into a finished lap on the same floor as the card room. With 
this arrangement no cleaning trunk is used. The machinery con- 
sists of a two-beater breaker with an automatic feeder, the first 
section of the breaker corresponding to the opener, which is sho-wn 



28 



• COTTON SPINNING. 



in the arrangement witli the trunk system. The rest of tlie ma- 
chinery is a single-beater intermediate pickei', also with an evener 
and a carding beater. Any of these single-beater machines can be 

made with two or three 
beaters when the natuie of 
tlie cotton requires a very 
thorough cleaning and the 
floor space is limited. 
; For spinning fine nnm- 

3 bers of yarn which require 
' long staple cotton, the fib- 
3 ers must be treated as care- 
l fully as possible, and as 
I the opening and cleaning 
3 process is an unavoidable 
'■ evil, it is necessary to re- 
l duce the beaters in a sys- 
i tern to the least number 
3. possible. Fig. 19 shows a 
a system which consists of an 
automatic feeder, usually 
- provided with an evener, 
; connected to a single beater 
^ breaker picker, and a 
^ single-beater finisher with 
3 an evener and rigid beater. 
Q In all the arrange- 

,3 ments previously describ- 
ed, the carding beater has 
^ been recommended for the 
finisher picker, as giving 
the best results, but for 
the treatment of very long 
staple cotton, the rigid 
beater is used in preference, as the action of the carding beater is 
considered too harsh. 

Comhination MaeJiine. When in small mills the production 
per day is not large enough for even one complete set of machines, 




COTTON SPINNING. 



2!) 



a combination breaker and finisher picker with a feeder attached 
is used. This machine is shown in sectional elevation in Fig. 20 
and is simply a finisher picker with a feeder connected to the end 
of a long feed apron. 

If the cotton is to undergo three processes, the number of 
pounds required for the day's run is put through the picker and 
allowed to fall in a loose pile in front of the calender head, and 
then is carried to the rear end and thrown onto the feeder again 
for the second process, when it is formed into laps. For the third 
process the laps are doubled, three or four, on the apron and made 
into the finished lap ready for the card-room. While this is the 




Fig. 19. Section of Mill witli two processes, and no Cleaning Trunk. 



usual method of handling tlie cotton, it can be made into laps 
after each process, if desired. When two processes only are re- 
quired, tlie cotton should always be formed into laps the first time 
it is run through the machine. 

The combination breaker and finisher is fitted with an evener 
specially adapted for running loose stock, and of which reference 
will be made later. It should have also a rigid beater, as the pin 
beater will not do when the cotton is. put through three processes. 
Sometimes this style of machine is made with two beaters, when 
it is desired to give the cotton a very thorough cleaning and to 
put it through twice only. The front section may then be pro- 
vided with a pin beater and the rear with a rigid beater. 



30 



COTTON SPINNING. 




COTTON SPINNING. 31 

SYSTEM THREE. 

When the picking machineiy is all upon the same floor, and 
a trunk is used for connecting the opener and breaker, the machin- 
ery may be arranged as in Fig. 21. The inclined cleaning trunk 
which is used for this is connected to the condenser of the breaker 
by a.galvanized iron conveying pipe about 12 inches in diameter, 
which extends horizontally above the finisher and intermediate 
to the back of the breaker. In. this way the loose cotton is fed to 
the opener and returned in tlie form of a lap in about the same 
part of the opening room. 

Another method of arranging the machines all on one floor, 
with a horizontal trunk, is shown in Fig. 22. The feeder and 
opener are close to the breaker by having the trunk in two sec- 
tions of 20 feet each, one jast above the other. This saves con- 
siderable space across the room. The trunk is cleaned in the 
manner described in Figs. 6 and 7, one end of each section being 
connected to the cleaning fan. 

Both of these arrangements are frequently used in a one-story 
building, but in the drawings sllo^vn the second floor is used for 
a slasher room. 

SYSTEM FOUR. 

It often happens that the bales of cotton cannot be unloaded 
near the opening room, and when this is the case an additional 
handling is necessary, which is quite an expense, particularly in a 
large mill. A method adopted by some of the leading manufac- 
turers is to connect the opening room with the cotton house (where 
the bales are unloaded) by a galvanized iron pipe 12 to 24 inches 
in diameter and of any reasonable length. 

In the cotton house is an automatic feeder which is connected 
to one end of the pipe. The cotton is thrown into this feeder, 
which delivers it to the pipe, through which it is drawn by a strong 
current of air produced by an exhaust fan. This fan has a style 
of wheel known as a wool wheel, which is ordinarily used for 
blowing wool. The other end of the pipe is provided with a con- 
denser, consisting of a revolving screen about 18 inches in diameter, 
upon which the cotton is deposited. The screen is connected to 



32 



COTTON SPINNING. 




COTTON SPINNING. 




34 



COTTON SPINNING. 





I 



il.^-t-B^i 



■~^;. 



iH 



^--j 



ft 



^2S 



COTTON SPINNING. 



3o 



a fan, and being open at both ends, the light lint and dust pass 
through, while the cotton is removed as the screen revolves and 
falls in a pile upon the floor. 

A sj'stem of this kind is shown in Figs. 23 to 27, inclusive. 
Fig. 23 is a plan and sectional elevation of a mill and storehouse, 
with a galvanized iron pipe 14 inches in diameter connecting them 
for conveying the cotton, and Fig. 24 is a plan and elevation, on 
a larger scale, of the automatic feeders for this system. 

One end of the cotton house is partitioned oil fronr the re- 
mainder of the building by a brick division wall, which forms a room 
where the bales are opened. In this room are two automatic feeders, 




Fig. 24. Plau and Sectional Elevation of Feeders in Storehouse. 



A and B, with espeeialljr large hoppers, which are driven by an 
electric motor and which deliver the cotton to the conveying pipe, 
C, through mouthpieces, D. The fan, E, for drawing the cotton 
through the pipe, is placed in the ojaener room at the top of the 
upi'ight pipe. 

Fig. 2.5 is a plan and elevation showing the piping in de- 
tail. Two condensers are used for supplying the five feeders. 
This affords an opportunity for distributing the cotton in two piles, 
so that it may be readily supplied to the feeders. 

After the cotton passes through the fan, it enters an enlarged 
part of the pipe, rectangular in section and in which is a gate, K, 



3.6 



COTTON SPINNING. 



shown by dotted .lines, which may be operated from tlie outside of 
the pipe. From this point, tlie pipe divides, line, F, leading to con- 
denser, G, and line, H, to condenser, J. If it is desired to send all 
of the cotton through condenser, J, the gate is moved to the posi- 
tion shown, which closes the opening in pipe, F, all of the cotton 
passing through pipe H. But if both condensers are to be run, 




*W^ 



Fig. 25. Plans and Sectional Elevation, showing details of piping for 
Blowing System. 

the gate is moved straightway of the pipe, leaving both branch 
pipes open to the condensers. 

The dust and dirt from the condensers are discharged into the 
dust room tlirough the pipe, L, by the fan, M. Wlien only one 
condenser is running, it is necessary to close the pipe leading to 
the other so that the air will all be drawn from the one that is 
running. This necessitates the wind gates, N and O. If the con- 



COTTON SPINNING. 



87 



denser, J, is running, the gate, N, should be closed, while if G is 
running, O is closed. When both are in operation, the gates 
should both be left open, so that the air will draw equally from each, 
but as the di-aft fiom the condenser nearest the fan is generally 
the strongest, it is often necessary to sliglitly close one of the, gates, 
so that the draft from each condenser shall be equal. 

When a small quantity of cotton is 
to be run through a blowing system, in- 
stead of having an automatic feeder as 
in Fig. 24, the feed end of the pipe is 






Fig. 26. Straight Pipe Mouth Pieces. 



made as shown in Figs. 26 and 27. In Fig. 26 it is enlarged slight- 
ly, so that the cotton may be thrown in readily. The pipe may 
be inverted and the cotton drawn up instead of down which is 

much better, as it affords an op- 
portunity for pieces of hoop iron, 
nails etc., to drop out, while 
with the pipe leading down, as 
in the drawing, the heavy sub- 
stances simply fall to the bottom 
of the vertical part of the pipe 
and have to be removed. Hand 
holes are made in this part of 
the pipe and in all parts where 
it is necessary. 

Fig-. 27 shows another form 




Fig. 27. 



for the feed end of the pipe, which embodies the points of both 
pipes previously referred to in Fig. 26. The shape of the pipe 
permits the cotton to be dropped in and the vertical part allows 



38 COTTON SPINNING. 

the heavy dirt to fall to the bottom, where it can be removed. 

It is considered advisable in all cases to use an automatic 
feeder with a blowing system in the cotton house, as the lumps 
of cotton are broken better by being tumbled about in the hop- 
per, and the danger of fire is less from the fan striking a hard 
substance, particularly when putting a large quantity through the 
pipe. The production from one feeder may be called, safely, 
8,000 pounds for a day of ten hours, without crowding the machine. 

Eveners. One of the characteristics of good yarn is even- 
ness. This is dependent upon the successful manipulation of the 
cotton ha all of the processes which it undergoes. Reference 
has been made previously to the doubling of the lajDS upon the 
aprons of the intermediate and finisher pickers. This. is of great 
importance in the process of evenmg, but the first stage in the for- 
mation of the lap, which is upon the breaker picker, may be con- 
sidered as the starting-point for tliis operation. While it is true 
that a carefully made lap niay be entirely spoiled bj' the careless 
handling of the machines before it is spun into yarn, as is often 
the case, the sooner we commence the operation of evening the 
mass of cotton, the better final result will be obtained. 

It is a well-known fact that when the hopperof the automatic 
feeder is quite full, the lap is apt to be heavy, and if the cotton is 
.allowed to run low in the hopper, the lap will be found to be cor- 
respondingly light. When an attendant is required to take care 
of quite a number of feeders, the laps from the breaker picker vary 
considerably in weight, owing to his inability to keep them filled 
to near enough a, tiniform height. In order that the automatic 
feeder shall deliver the same amount of cotton to the opener at all 
times, many feeders are provided with eveners of some description. 

Evener for Automatic Feeder. Fig. 28 shows a section of an 
automatic feeder which, besides having an evening device, possesses 
some points quite distinct from all other feeders. It consists. of 
• a bottom apron, A, an elevating apron, B, supported by carrier rolls, 
and a doffer, C. Beneath the doffer is a screen, D, and a dust 
drawer, or box, E, while beneath the elevating apron is also a 
screen, all of which jDarts are common to most feeders. Instead, 
however, of having a spike-roll to remove the surplus bunches 
of cotton from the elevating apron, this feeder is provided with 



COTTON SPIiNNING. 



39 



a comb, F, which is carried by several arms, G. These arms are 
fastened to the comb shaft, H, which is hung from the shaft, P, by- 
swing stands, M. The oscillations of the comb are obtained from 
a pulley, J, in one arm of which is fastened a stud, T. This stud 
is connected by a pitman, K, to a similar stud, V, in the arm, L, 
which is fastened to the comb shaft. 

Fig. 29 shows an enlarged section of a part of the feeder and 
Fig. 30 an elevation of the same. 




Fig. 28. Automatic Feeder with Evener Attached. 

The device for i-egulating the feed is constructed in the fol- 
lowing manner : In the back part of . the hopper is a rack, R, con- 
structed similarly to a rake, with very long tines, which is sus- 
pended from each side of the hopjjer by studs, U, which form a 
center about wliich it swings. Projecting from the top of the rack 
are stands, W, connected to the comb-shaft swing stands by arms, N. 
By this arrangement, any swinging motion of the rack will be com- 



76 



40 



COTTON SPINNING. 



municatecl to the comb by the parts described. On the outside of 
the hopper are springs, O, connected to the arms, S, which are 




Fig. 29. Section Showing Evener Parts. 

fastened to the outside ends of the studs, U, from which the rack 
swings. The ptiU of the springs .is sucli 'as to draw the rack 




Fig. 30. Elevation Showing Evener Parts. 

towards the elevating apron. When the hopper is full, or nearly so, 
the cotton keeps the rack in an almost vertical position, but as it 



COTTON SPINNING. 



41 




COTTOX SPIXXIXG. 



gets low in tliu hopper, tlie springs draw the rack forward towards 
the elevating apron while the comb is drawn slightly away from 
it. By thus increasing the distance between the comb and the 
apron (which is sho-wii by the dotted lines in Fig. 29), more 
cotton is allowed to pass forward to the opener, tending to keep 
the deliveiy of the feed the same at all times. 

Another style of automatic feeder, provided witli an evener, 
is shown in connection with an opener in Fig. 31. With this 
feeder the supply of cotton delivered to the opener is regulated bj' 

the speed of the elevating 
apron, which in turn is gov- 
erned by tlie thickness of the 
sheet of cotton passing be- 
tween the evener rolls. As 
the quantity of cotton in the 
hopper grows less, the 
amount fed to the opener is 
lighter; thus the S2:)eed of the 
elevating apron and the feed 
rolls on the opener are cor- 
respondingly increased, so 
that the amount of cotton de- 
livered shaU be always the 
same. The elevating apron, 
A, is driven b}^ frictional con- 
tact with the top apron roll, B, 
on the end of which is a worm gear, C, which is driven from the 
Avorm, D, upon the end of the cone, E. This cone is driven from 
the dium, F, by the belt, G, which passes around the earlier roll, 
H, and the binder cone, J. 

An end elevation of the cone is shown at the right in Fig. 31. 
On the end of the beater shaft, and shown by dotted lines, is a 
pulley, K, Avhich drives the drum, F, hy means of the belt, L, pulley, 
M, and gears, N and O, the last- being upon the end of tlie drum 
shaft. On the top apron roll is a gear, P, which drives a similar 
gear, R, and upon the hub of the latter is a sprocket wheel, S, which 
drives, by means of the sprocket chain, T, the wheel, W. , The feed 
rolls. A^, are driven from the hub of this sprocket by the gears, C^ 




Section Showing Evener Rolls 
and Feed Rolls. 



78 



COTTON SPINNING. 



43 



and Di, and the evener rolls, B^ and B^, are driven by the gears, 
Ci and El. It will be seen that by this arrangement any change 
ill the speed of thee levating apron directly affects the speed of the 
evener and feed rolls. 

Fig. 32 is a section showing the arrangement of the evener 
rolls and feed rolls. Fig. 33 is a view of the evener case showing 
the rolls, levers and parts connected. , 




Fig. 33. Elevation Showing Evener Rolls and Levers. 

The cotton passes along en the feed apron, F^, under the press 
roll, G^, and is drawn between the bottom evener rolls, B^, and 
the top evener roll, B^, and then hi'tweeu the feed rolls, A^. The 
bottom evener rolls, which are aljout 2 inches in diameter, are 
made solid, while the top roll, which is driven from one of the bot- 
tom ones by gears, H^ and H-^, is about 3 inches in diameter 
and is made up of a series of short rolls, eight in number, each about 
5 inches long and which are hollow and connected as shown in 
Fig. 34. In the face of . ^^ 

the rolls, and near each 
end, is a hole through 
which is driven a steel 
pin. These j)bis, A^, 
are connected by dogs, 

or universal joints. A'"*. In this way, rotary motion is communi- 
cated from one to another, while a vertical movement of one or 
more cm take place, subject to the varying thickness of the cotton 
passhig between them and the bottom rolls. The whole arrange- 
ment forms a very neat flexible roll. 

On the to pof each of the short rolls (Fig. 33) rests one end of 
a small saddle, G'-^. These saddles are connected by other saddles, 




Fig. 34. Section of Flexible Evener Roll. 



44 



COTTON SPrNNjxG. 



Hi^, while a main saddle, Ji, forms a connection between all of 
them. On the top of the evener case is the evener lever, K^, 
which is connected to the main saddle by the stem, L^. The ful- 
crum of the lever is at M^ and the long end is connected to a rod, 
Ni. 

Fig. 35 is a side elevation showing the connections between 
the evener lever and the cone-belt guide. It will be seen that the 
lower end of the rod, N^, is connected to a bell crank-lever, O^, 
which turns on a stud, P^ . A horizontal rod, Ri, connects the ver-- 
tical arm of this lever with the lever, S^. At the lower end of the' 




Fig. 3-5. Elevation Showing' Connections from Evener to Cone Belt. 

latter is a stud, Ti, which forms a fulcrum about which the lever 
turns and at the upper end is connected the cone-belt guide, Wt. 
When the evener roll is raised, by reason of an unusual thickness 
of cotton going through, the evener lever also raises and the con- 
nections, just described, move in tlie direction shown by arrows. 
This moves the cone belt towards the large end of the driven cone, 
E (Fig. 31), and a slower movement of tlie elevating aprcm takes 
place, delivering less cotton to the opener. A light feed will cause 
a reverse movement in the direction of the cone belt towards the 
small end of the driven cone, thus increasing the speed of the 
elevating apron. Tliis style of evener, for regulatmg the feed of 



80 



COTTON SPINNING 



45 



cotton when in loose form, '' raw stock " as it is called, is one of 
the most perfect in use. 

Evencrs for Pickers. The operations of the evener on the 
intermediate and finisher pickers depend wholly upon the thick- 




ness of the sheet of cotton which jiasses. between two surfaces and 
not npon the weight, as is also the case when the evenev is applied 
to the automatic feeder and, unless tlie cotton has been thdroughly 



COTTON SPINNING. 



opened, the same weight in a lap ma,j be slightly diifereiit in 
thickness, consequently the evener is not always absolutely perfect 
in its wo;-k. 

A side elevation of a finisher picker provided with an evener 
is shown in Fig. 36. The evener is driven from the draft gear, X, 
on the calender head, or delivery end of the machine, by the side 
shaft, A. On the back end of this shaft is a drum, B, Avhich drives 
the evener cone, C, by means of the belt, F, which passes over the 
carrier roll, G, and under the binder cone, H, which can be lowered 
to take up the slack as the belt stretches. On the end of the 
evener cone is a worm, K, which drives the worm gear, L, Avhich is 
connected directly to the evener and feed I'olls. 

Fig. 37 shows a section 
through the evener and Fig. 
38 shows a side elevation and 
section of the same. 

The laps are cariied for- 
ward on the feed apron, D, 
and are drawn between the 
evener roll, J, and the sectional 
plates, E, then between the 
feed rolls, Ni and N2. The 
sectional plates, of which 
there are sixteen, extend 
across the whole width of the 
face of the evener roll. Rest- 
ing in a socket on the top of each of these plates are short rods, 
Bi, which suppoi-t saddles, C^. These saddles are connected to 
the stem, D^, by other and larger saddles all of which act' as levers, 
the stem forming a connection between the top saddle, E^, and 
the top lever. F^. The top lever, which has its fiilciaim at G^, 
is connected at its long .end by a rod, H^-, the lower end of which 
termuiates in a rack, A^, which is in gear with a pinion, C*, this 
last being on the qnadi'aut shaft, J^. On the outer end of the 
quadrant shaft is a segment gear, K^, called the quadrant, the 
teeth of which are in contact with the teeth of the cone-lielt 
gxiide, L^. 

When the position of the sectional plates is changed, by reason 




Fig. 37. Sectiou Showing Evener Rolls 
and Feed Rolls. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



4.7 



of a difference in thickness of the sheet of cotton passing undei- 
them, the quadrant shaft is turned sHghtly, and by the connections 
just described, the cone belt is moved to a different position on the 
face of the cone, changing the speed of the evener and feed rolls. 
This will continue until the thick or thin place, as the case may 
be, has passed by the sectional plates, when they will resume their 
normal position. At the top end of tlie rod. Hi, is a thumbscrew, 
C3, by which the position of the cone belt maybe changed slightly 
when adjusting the evener. 




Fig. 38. Section and Side Elevation of Evener for Picker. 



In order that the sectional plates shall not rise too easily, a 
drum, or weight pulley, C^, is fastened to the quadrant shaft. 
Around this pulley, and fastened to it, passes a strap, B 2, the lower 
end of which is connected to a weight liook wpon which hangs a 
weight, D^. By this means, tlie sectional plates are pressed firnily 
down upon the lap. 

Tlie gearing of the picker is so airanged that the feed and 
deliveiy of the cotton can be started and stopped while the picker 
is running. It will be seen that in Fig. 36 the gear, R, which is 
upon the delivery calender roll, is driven from the pinion, S, 
which is carried by the drop lever, M, and that the feed rolls and 
evener rolls are driven from the draft gear, X, which is on the end 
of the shaft, N. Both the pinion and draft gears are driven from 
the calender pulleys on the opposite side of the calender head and 



COTTON SPINNING. 



revolve all the time that the picker is rimning. The drop lever 
turns on a stud at P. To the loAver end of the lever is fastened a 
rod, I-P, which is connected to the lower end of the upright shaft, 
T, by the arm, H*. When the feed rolls ai'c started, the drop 
lever is raised and the pinion, S, is brought into contact with the 
gear, R, and at the same time, the evener and feed rolls are started 
by means of a clutch being thi-owu into contact witli the worm 
gear. 

Au enlarged section, an elevation and 
clutch and worm gear are shown in Fig. 39. 
a sleeve, L*, with a 



partial plan of this 
On the stud, W, is 



gear on one end which 
drives the evener and 
feed rolls and a dog, 
or driver, L^, keyed to 
the other end. The 
clutch, K^, has two 
lugs, or bosses, N, 
w h i c h project be- 
tween the arms of the 
dog. The worm gear, 
L, which runs loose 
on tire sleeve, h a s 
teeth ujjon one side 
w h i c h engage, 'with 
the teeth in the 




Fig. R(}. Clutoh iiud Worm Gear. 



clutch. "When the clutch is thrown out, the worm gear runs 
without imparting motion to the evener and feed rolls but when 
the calender head is started, the shipper rod, H^, which is drawn 
forward by the raising of the drop lever causes the clutch to 
engage with the teeth of the worm gear, the sleeve being driven 
by the lugs projecting between the arms of the dog. 

Anotlier style of evener, which is applied to intermediate or 
finisher jnckers, is shown in three views, a section, an end elevation 
and a partial plan in Fig. 40. On the end of the evener roll, B, is 
a worm gear, D, wliich is driven by a worm, F, on the upper end of 
the driven cone, II. ^Pliis cone is driven by a belt, J, from the 
driving cone, L, which in turn is diiven from the side shaft, R- 



COTTON SPINNING. 



4'.) 



by the gears, N and P. The- cotton passes on the feed apron, 
and between the evener roll, and the pedals, C, then between 
feed rolls, E and G. 
These pedals, eight in 
number, are made with ° 
one end a flat surface 
over which the cotton 
passes, and are balanced 
on a knife blade, K. 
To the long end of the 
pedals is connected a 
series of links and sad- 
dles, which are connect- 
ed to a main saddle, j\I, 
the whole arrangement 
being similar to the 
evener shown last. 
Directly be ne a t li tlie 
main saddle is a shaft, 
O, on one end of wliic 



A, 

the 





is a roll, or drum, Q, which is 



connected to the main saddlt' l)v 



a thin steel band, S, and a juke, U. One end of the band passes 



85 



50 COTTON SPINNING. 



partially around the drum and the other is fastened to the lower 
end of the yoke. On the other end of the shaft is a quadrant, 
W, which is connected to the cone-belt guide, Y, by a thin, steel 
band, X, similar to the one connecting the main saddle. 

When the position of the pedals is changed by a difference in 
the thickness of the cotton passing between them and the evener 
roll, the shaft, O, is rotated and the cone belt moved to a different 
position on the face of the cones. An adjusting screw, A^, con- 
nects the yoke and main saddle, by which the cone belt maj" be 
moved slightly when adjusting the evener for the correct weight 
of lap. . 

The driven cnne, H, is held rigidly in its bearings but the 
driving coiie, L, is held by arras, C^ and C^, whicli swing from 
the shaft, D^. Fastened to the shaft is a lever, E^, on the end of 
which is connected a chain, Fi, and weiglit, G^, tlie cliain running 
over a pulley. Hi. B)^ this arrangement the cones are kept apart 
and the cone belt tight. 

Mvener Cones. The question often arises as to why the out-, 
lines of the evener cones are curved instead of being a straight 
taper. The reason for this is very simple but, m order that it 
shall be understood, a few words on the subject may not be amiss. 

It is usually customary to double four laps on the apron of 
the picker so that four thicknesses shall pass under the evener roll, 
but, if one of the laps should run out, it is evident tliat the evener 
loU ought to run proportionately faster in order that the same 
weight of cotton shall be fed to the beater in a given time. 

A diagram of a pair of cones and an evener roll is shown in 
Fig. 41. The roll. A, is 9 inches in circumference or 2|. inches 
in diameter. On the end of it is a worm gear, B, of sixty 
teetli, which- is driven by a single tlireaded worm, C, on the 
upper end of the driven cone, D. The driving cone, E, rnris 
at a constant speed of 480 I'evolutions per minute arid is driven 
from the side shaft, H, by gears, F and G. Let us suppose that 
four laps,' each weighing 12 ounces per yard, are passing under 
the evener roll, the speed of which is 8 revolutions per minute ; 
now, as the roll is 9 inches in circumference, there would be fed 
into the machine 72 inches, or 2 yards, of cotton weighing 48 
oiuices per yard, 9(3 ounces in all. With the evener roll at 8 



COTTON SPINNIXG. 



51 



revolutions, the cone will make 480 revolutions (8 X 60 -f- 1 = 
480) the cone belt being midway of the ends of the cone. Now 
suppose one laji runs out, leaving only three thicknesses, or 36 
ounces, passing into tlie machine, it is evident that the evener roll 
should increase enough in speed to feed in an equal amount, weigh- 
ing 36 ounces per yard in the same time as when that weighing 



e LAPS SPEED 32 



460 REVS. 




Fig. 41. Evener Cones with Correct Outline. 

48 ounces per yard is going in. To accomplish this, the speed of 
the roll must be increased to 10.66 revolutions per minute, which 
will feed in 2.66 yards, which, weighing 36 ounces per yard, brings 
the total to 96 ounces. To give the evener roll 10.66 revolutions 
per minute, the driven cone would have to run 640 revolutions per 
minute and as the driving cone runs 480 revolutions, it is easily 
seen that the belt should move to a point on the face of the cones 



87 



52 



COTTOX SPINNING. 



where the diaiiK'ter will be such as to give 640 revolutions to the 
driven coue. 

The cones in the diagram are made with a difference in diame- 
ter between the large and small ends to provide fur a range in 
speed adapted to pass in from two to six laps, and, as the cones 
are 16 inches long, the difference of one lap in the thickness of 
the sheet will move the cone belt up or down the face of the cones' 
4 inches. Therefore, with tliree thicknesses of lap gomg through, 
the cone belt will move down the cones to the fourth position and 
the speed of the driven cone will be 640 revolutions per minute. 
The diameters of the cones at this point should be 5.14 inches for 
the driving cone and 3.86 inches for the driven cone. 

The following table shows the speeds of the evener roll and 
driven cones and the corresponding diameters of the cones neces- 
sary for the different speeds. From the table, it will be seen that 
the diameters of both cones, taken at the same points and added 
together, give the same total. 



ounces 
red by 
oil. 


yards 
d by 
oU. 


o c 


a„ 






3 bo 


li 


~^Z 


.9 2'" 


f ■ 




ta 






s.'* 




III 




o n 1 


43 O ^ 


3 M . 


.2 o 


s o 


^ 


S 


k'^ 


« 


O 


^ 





C 


96 


1.33 


320 


5.33 


72 


6 


3.6 


5.4 


96 


1.60" 


384 


6.40 


60 


5 


4 


5 


96 


2.00 


480 


8.00 


48 


4 


.4.5 


4.5 


96 


2.66 


640 


10.66 


36 


3 


5.14 


3.86 


96 


4.00 


960 


16.00 


24 


2 


6 


3 



Fig. 42 shows a diagram of a pair of straight taper cones wliich 
serve for comparison wth those of correct outline shown in the 
previous diagram. The large end of each is 6 inches in diameter, 
the small end 3 inches in diameter and the middle 4J inches 
in diameter; the speed of the driving coue is 480 revolutions 
per minute. While the speeds of the driven cone, with two 
and four laps going in, are 960 and 480 revolutions per minute 



COTTON SPINNING. 



53 



respectively and are conect, at all other points tlie diameters of the 
cones are such as to give incorrect speeds as will be seen by com- 
paring the two diagrams. 

Friction Let-off. The friction let-off. })y wliicli the laps on tlie 
picker are caused to be wound firmly, is c(nistructed verj' similarly 
by all builders. Three views, a front elevation, a side elevation 
and a section of this' device are shown in Fia'. 43. 




Fiij. 42. Eveuer Cones with Incorrect Outlines. 



The lap, which is wound upon the lap arbor, N^, is held in 
contact with the lap roll, Y, by the racks, K and K^, which bear 
upon either end of the lap I'oll. The top of the racks is recessed 
to receive two rolls, A and B, which form roller bearings and 
which greatly reduce the friction and wear upon the lap roll. The 
lower end of the rack, K is in gear with the pinion, W, while K^ 



54 



COTTON SPINNING. 



is in gear with the pinion, D ; both pinions are secured to the rack 
shaft, G: The gear, R, also on the rack shaft, is connected with 
the pinion, O, which is on the hub of the break pulley, N, by 
the gears, S and P. These gears turn loose on the shaft, L, and 
are held in position by the collars, F and H. The break pulley, 
N, is free to turn on the rack shaft and is held hi position by the 
collar, C. Loose upon the shaft, L, is tlie break lever, E, which 
bears against the mider side of the break pulley and is kept in con- 




SIDE ELEVATION 



FRONT EL£:M«TI0N 



Fig. 43. Friction Let-off. 



Sact vnth it by the weight, M. The face of tlie break lever wliich 
bears against the pulley is lined with leather. 

As the lap increases in diameter, it draws up on the racks, 
which are kept from rising by the friction of the break lever against 
the break pulley. When it has been wound to its full diameter, 
the attendant presses down upon the break lever, releasing it from 
contact with the break pulley; then the rack can be raised by 
turning the handwheel, J, on the end of the rack shaft. 

In order to bring both racks to the same height, so that the 
lap will be wound equally in diameter on each end, the pinion, D, 
which gears into the rack, Ki, is keyed directly to the rack shaft 



COTTON SPINNING. 55 



while the pinion, W, which gears into the rack, K, is connected to 
the rack shaft by a lug projecting between the arms of a dog, or 
carrier, T, which is keyed to the rack shaft. In the arms of the 
dog are adjusting screws, T^ and T^, which bear against the pro- 
jecting lug of the pinion and by turning these screws the pinion 
can be moved a slight distance around the rack shaft in either 
direction and the rack, K, brought exactly in line with the rack, 

On warm, damjD days, the leather facing of the break lever 
adheres closely to the break pulley and it is often necessary to 
move the weight, M, in from the end of the break lever, thus re- 
ducing the pressure of the lever against the break pulley. Some- 
times it is necessary to remove the weight as too great pressure 
tends to break the lap rolls aud to wind too hard laps, which may 
split when unrolled. 

Care should be taken in oiimg to avoid getting oil upon the 
break pulley as the friction is rendered well-nigh useless and the 
lap is consequently too soft. 

Automatic Safety-stop. It is necessary that the laps, particu- 
larly those from the finisher picker, shall be as free as possible from 
foreign substances which, if by accident are wound into the lap, 
cause considerable injury to the card. Most pickers are provided 
with some form of device to prevent this. Two views of an auto- 
matic safety-stop are shown in Fig. 44, a side elevation and a 
partial front elevation. 

The calender rolls, feed rolls and cages are all driven by the 
pinion, S, through the gear, R, which is upon one of the calender 
rolls, consequently, by disengaging these gears, the calender rolls 
and parts connected are stopped. This is accomplished in the fol- 
lowing manner : The cotton, after leaving the cages, passes between 
the top and second calender rolls, L and N. Resting on the top 
of the l^earings, at either end of the top calender roll, is a lever, 
F, called the top lever. ' The rolls, which are heavily weighted, 
are connected to the weiglit by the top lever, the rod, H, and the 
weight lever, G, upon which is the weight, J. The weight lever 
has its fulcrum at K. Directly above a part of the weight lever 
is the knock-off lever. A, wliich turns on the shaft, C, and has a 
surow, D, near its inner end by which it is adjusted and which 



36 



COTTON SPINNING. 



bears against a lug, projecting from the weight lever. When it is 
in its normal position, its outer end is just clear of the under side 
of the knock-off latch, E. This latch turns on the stud, T, and 
has a notch, B^, in its upper end hy which the drop lever, M, that 
carries the pinion, S, is held in position. Should any foreign sub- 
stance be drawn between the calender rolls, the unusual thickness 
of the lap caused hy it will lift the top calender roll, and, through 
the connection just described, the knock-off lever will be raised 
and its outer end brought in contact with the knock-off latch 




Fig. 44. Automatic Safety Stop. 



which in turn will be moved to one side, allowing the drop lever 
to fall, disengaging the gears, R and S, and stopping the calender 
rolls. The adjusting screw enables the picker to be set so that a 
very slight increase of thickness in the lap will cause the picker to 
knock off, as it will also when the evener fails to take care of 
unusually heavy laps. 

Knock-off Device. In order to get the best results, the laps 
should be as near the same weight as possible ; not tliat each 
square yard of lap must weigh the same, but the total wei<?;ii' 
of each lap must be within one-half pound variation of a fon,j' 
pound lap. In some cases, for very fine work, particularly with 



COTTON SPINNING. 



57 



single carding and the revolving flat card, each lap from the 
finisher picker is weiglied, and, if found to vary from the limit, 
wliich has been established as a standard, is not allowed to pass 
to the card-room. Sometimes every other lap- is weighed and 
often they are weighed every hour thougli in some mills it is not 
considered necessary to weigli them more tlian once or twice a day. 

Calculations. The weight of the lap is governed by the num- 
ber of yards it contains and is measured by the revolutions of the 
lap roll, the picker being stopped automatically after the required 
number of yards has been wound. The device, by which this is 
regulated, is called the knock-off, a diagram of the gearing of 
which is shown in Fig. 4.5, which should be used in connection 
with Fig. 44. 

The knock-off, or change gear, K, is driven from the calender 
roll by the side shaft, B. Loose upon the hub of this gear is a dog, 



SINGLE WORM 




Fiff. 45. Diagram of Knock-oft Gearing. 



W, driven by a pin, V, whicli forms jjart of the gear. As the lat- 
ter turns, the do'g is brought against the upper end of the knock- 
off latch, E, moving it out and allowing the drop lever, M, to fall, 
disengagmg the pinion, S, and the gear, R, and, as the dog assumes 
a vertical position, by reason of bemg loose on the hub of the 
gear, the picker can be started immediately after it has knocked 
off and the lap has been removed. The knock-off gear makes one 
revolution for each lap wound, so a change in the number of teeth 
it contains gives a different number of yards in a lap. 

When the weight per yard and the total weight of the lap 



58 COTTON SPINNHSTG. 



have been established, the constant number or factor, by which 
the number of teeth in the knock-off gear is calculated, can be 
ligared. The lap rolls are 9 inches in diameter, or 28.27 inches in 
circumference, therefore 1.27 revolutions will be required to wind 
one yard, thus : 36 -^ 28.27 = 1.27. 

On the end of the lap roll is a gear of 37 teeth which is driven 
from a pinion of 18 teeth. Compounded with the pinion is a gear 
of 73 teeth, which is driven fi'om the calender shaft by a pinion 
of 14 teeth. On the right end of the calender shaft is a pinion, 
S, of 18 teeth wliich drives the gear, R, of 80 teeth. On the hub 
of the latter is a single-threaded worm which drives a gear of 35 
teeth which is upon the side shaft. On the opposite end of the 
side shaft is a pinion of 18 teeth, which drives the knock-off, K, 
through the intermediate gear of 30 teeth. 

Following are the rules governing the calculations for tka 
picker : 

Rule 1. To find the factor for the knock-off gear, multiply 
the drivers together and divide the product by the product of the 
driven gears multiplied by the number of revolutions of the lap 
roll necessary to wind one yard, leaving out all intermediate gears 
and the knock-off gear. 

Example: ^^ >< ^^ >< ^^ >^ ^^ =..879 

18x1x13x73x37x1.27 

Rule 2. To find the number of yards in a lap, multiply the 
factor by the number of teeth in the knock-off gear, 30. 
Example: .879 X 30 = 26.37 
Rule 3. To find the number of yards in a lap, without using 
the factor, multiply the number of teeth in the knock-off gear by 
the product of the drivers, and divide that product by the product 
of the driven gears multiplied by the number of revolutions of the 
lap roll necessary to wind one yard, leaving out all intermediate 
gears. 

30 X 35 X 80 X 14 X 18 ^ ^^ 

^^^'M^-- 18X 1 X13X 73 X 37 X 1.27 =2^-^^ 

Rule 4. To find the number of teeth in the knock-off geat. 
divide the number of yards in the lap by the factor. 
Example : 26.37 -^ .879 = 30 



COTTON SPINNING. 59 

The weight of the laps from the finisher picker depends upon 
the production required, the counts of yarn it is desired to make 
and tlie class of cotton used. It will run from 10 to 16 ounces 
per yard. The laps on the apron of the finisher picker will aver- 
age about 15 ounces per yard, and as there are four laps on the 
apron at one time, the combined weight of the laps entering 
the finisher is 60 ounces per yard, and as the weight of the lap 
from the finisher is between 10 and 16 ounces per yard, it is 
evident that some means must be employed to reduce this weight 
to that required. This is accomplished by introducing a certain 
amount of draft between the feed rolls and the lap rolls. By the 
word draft, as applied to cotton machinery, is meant the i-atio of 
the length of lap passing the lap rolls in a given time, to the length 
of lap which passes the feed rolls in the same time. If the circum- 
ferential velocity of the feed rolls is 25 feet per minute, while in 
the same time the velocity of the lap roll is one hundred feet or 
four times as much, there is a draft of four,. It follows if the com- 
bined weight entering the feed rolls is 60 ounces per yard, the 
weight delivered will be one-fourth as much, or 15 cunces per 
yard. 

To make this clear to those not familiar with the subject, we 
will call the weight of each of the laps on the apron of the finisher 
16 ounces per yard and that of die lap delivered by the finisher 
15 ounces per yard. The draft will be found in the following way : 

Rule 5. To find the draft of the finisher, multiply the num- 
ber of laps on the apron by the weight per yard and divide the 
product by the weight of the lap being delivered. 

Example : = 4..2 

Rule 6. To find the weight of lap being delivered, draft 
being known, multiply the number of laps on the apron by the 
weight per yard and divide the product by the draft. 

4X16 _ 
Example : = 15. 

After the draft has been calculated, which in this case we 
have found to be 4.2, the draft factor, or constant number, must 



95 



60 



COTTON SPINNING. 



be found by which the numbei- of teeth in the draft gear may be 
determined. A diagram of the gearing of a finisher picker is 
snown in J^ig. 46. 




The feed roll is 2J- inches in diameter and has upon the end 
a spur gear of 12 teeth, which is driven from the evener roll b}' a 
gear of 16 teeth. Compounded with this gear is one of 28 teeth, 



COTTON SPINNING. 61 

which is driven from the apron roll by a gear of 20 teeth. On 
the outer end of the apron roll is a worm gear of 85 teeth that is 
driven by a single-threaded worm which is upon one end of the 
evener cone. The diameter of the evener cone is taken at a point 
midway of the ends and is 3| inches. The cone is driven from a 
10-inch diameter drum on the side shaft. On the front end of the 
side shaft is a bevel gear of 54 teeth, driven from a similar gear of 
40 teeth compounded with a spur gear of 30 teeth, which is driven 
from the draft gear, E, (on the end of the driving shaft) through 
an intermediate gear of 60 teeth. On the other end of the driving 
shaft is a pinion of 14 teeth, which drives the lap rolls through 
gears of 76, 14, 73, 18 and 37 teeth. The last gear is upon the 
lap rolls which are nine inches in diameter. 

Rule 7. To find the constant number, or factor, of the picker, 
multiply the diameter of the lap roll by the drivers and divide the 
product by the product of the diameter of the feed roll multiplied 
by the driven gears, leaving out all intermediate gears and the 
draft gear. 

Example : 
9 X 18 X 14 X 14 X 30 X 54 X 31 X 85 X 28 X 12 _ ^^ ^^ 
2^ X 37 X 73 X 76 X 40 X 10 X 1 X 20 X 16 ~ 

Rule 8. To find the number of teeth in the draft gear, divide 
the draft factor by the draft, 42. 

Example : 85.51 -^ 4.2 = 20 

Rule 9. To find the draft, when the number of teeth in the 
draft gear is known, divide the draft factor by the number of teeth 
in the draft gear, 20. 

Example : 85.51 -^ 20 = 4.2 

Rule 10. To find the draft, without first finding the factor, 
multiply the diameter of the lap roll by the drivers and divide the 
product by the product of the diameter of the feed roll multiplied 
by the driven gears and the draft gear, leaving out the inter- 
mediate gears. 

Example : 
9 X 18 X 14 X 14 X 30 X 54 X 31 X 85 X 28 X 12 



21 X 37 X 73 X 76 X 20 X 40 X 10 X 1 X 20 X 16 



= 4.2 



9T 



62 COTTON SPINNING. 



Rulell. To find the speed of the beater, multiply the speed 
of the counteishaft by the diameter of the pulley, A, (24 inches) 
and divide the product by the diameter of the beater pulley, B, (8 
inches) . 

^ , 500 X 2-1 ^.„. 
Example: =1500. 

Rule 12. To find the speed of the fan, multiply the speed of 
the beater by the diameter of the pulley, C, (5 inches) and divide 
the product by the diameter of the pulley, D, (8 inches). 

Example: 1^^1^ = 937.5 

Rule 1 3. To find the factor for the production of the picker, 
multiply together the number of revolutions of the beater shaft, 
the circumference of the lap roll and the drivers and divide the 
product by the product of the diameter of the pulley on the calen- 
der head {24 inches) multiplied by the driven gears and 86 (num- 
ber of inches in a yard). 

1500x28.27x14x14x18 ^,^^ 

ll^xample: := .o4do 

^ 24 X 76 X 73 X 37 X 36 

Rule 14. To find the production of the picker, multiply the 
factor, the diameter of the feed pulley, F, (4^ inches) the minutes 
run per day (600) and the weight of the lap per yard (15 ounces) 
together and divide the productby ounces per pound.. 

, .8435X4^X600X15 „-,o.-,niK 

Example : = 2135.10 lbs. 

^ 16 



COTTON SPINNING. 

PART II. 



CARDING. 



After the cotton has passed through the opening and clean- 
ing process, there still remains a considerable amount of leaf, 
sand, particles of seed and small clusters of nnripe fibers which 
must be removed before it can be spun properly into yarn. If we 
examine carefully a lap from the finisher picker, we shall see that 
in addition to these impurities, the fibers lie in different direc- 
tions in small tangled tufts of unequal thickness and densitj'^, 
also that it is necessary to comb or card them to disentangle, 
straighten and clean them. 

Arrangement of Card Room. The cotton card, like all other 
machines used in cotton spinning, has grown from a very primitive 
form. At the present time, the revolving flat card is used almost 
exclusively. Before entering upon a description of the card, some 
attention should be given to the placing of the machinery in the 
card room. An arrangement adopted in many mills is shown in 
plan in Fig. 47 and in sectional e.levation in Fig. 48. 

The cards are placed in rows, extending lengthwise of the 
mill, six to seven feet on centers except where a line comes 
between columns. The alleys should be about four feet wide if 
space will permit. This allows a lap truck to pass down the 
alley, clear 'of the machines, a point which should be considered, 
as laps are frequently torn by coming in contact with the machin- 
ery. The cards in two adjoining lines should be placed with the 
coilers towards each other, except when the width of the mill is 
such as to cause an odd number of rows, a,s shown in the draw- 
ings. In that case the odd row, is placed, usuallj-, in the center of 
the room. 

The shafting for driving the cards should be placed over the 
front or coiler alley, so that the driving belt will not interfere 
with the application of the flat grinder which is attached at the 



COTTON SPINNING. 



back on most cards. In no case should tlie shafting be placed 
over the cards, as oil is very apt to Avork out of the hanger boxes 
and drop on to the clothing of the flats and destroy it completely. 
The cards sliould be so arranged that each is driven from a 
separate pulley. This is more necessary than it seems at first 




thought. If the cards are not erected exactly parallelly with the 
shaft, the driving belt may run to one side of the face of the 
pulley and to overcome this the pulley is moved slightly along 
the shaft. If two cards were driven from the same pulley, this 
coidd not be. done. AVith the old-fashioned tojj flat cards it was 



103 



COTTON SPINNING. 



65 



customary to drive two from the same piillej-, the pulley having a 
flange in the center of the face, vrhich formed a division between 
the two belts. If the cards were not set parallelly with the shaft, 




the belt would run to one side. To remedy this, the cards, instead 
of the pulleys, were moved enough to cause the belt to run true, but 



66 



COTTON SPINNING. 




COTTON SPINNING. 67 

with the i-evolving flat cards, it is not considered advisable to move 
them, as the settings are easily disturbed. 

Theory of Carding^. In the sectional elevation shown in 
Fig. 49, the lap, A, from the finisher picker, is placed in the lap 
stands and rests upon the lap roll, B, by which it is revolved 
slowly, the surface speed of the lap "roll being just sufficient to 
unwind the lap at tlje same speed that it is received by the feed 
roll. It then passes forward on the feed plate, C, and under the 
feed roll, E. As tlie fibers pass up over the curved part or nose 
of the feed plate, they come in contact with the teeth of the 
•leader or licker-in, G, which is about 9| inches in diameter and is 
covered with steel teetli, inserted in its surface, which resemble 
the teeth of a saw. The action of the leader is twofold ; that of 
removing dirt and that of combing and straightening the fibers. 
When the teeth of the leader (the surfac e speed of which is about 
1,050 revolutions j)er minute) strike the fibers, the force of the 
blow strikes down and partially removes the dirt. The fibers, 
which have now advanced far enough beyond the bite of the feed 
roll, are removed and carried by the leader, while those which are 
held by the feed roll are combed and straightened. The fibers 
thus receive a very effectual cleaning, more dirt bemg removed at 
this point than in any part of the card. As they are carried 
around by the leader, the fibers are drawn over the top edge of 
the mote knife, D, which also aids in cleaning. Directly under 
the leader is a screen or grid, F, called the leader screen. The 
part of the screen with which the fibers come in contact first con- 
sists of a series of bars, running across from side to side of the 
card; the- rest of the screen, from the last bar to a point where it 
is hinged to the cylinder screen, is perforated with small holes. 
The object of this screen is to prevent the cotton from leaving the 
leader, and to allow foreign substances, which, being heavier, are 
thrown out by centrifugal force, to drop through these perfora- 
tions. 

The fibers, which have been brought around by the leader, 
are now taken up by the cylinder, H, the surface velocity of 
which is a little more than twice that of the leader. The wire 
teeth (card clothing) of the cylinder are much finer than those of 
the leader, and as both surfaces run ia the same direction, the 



68 COTTON SPINNING. 



fibers are readily stripped from the teeth of the leader and are 
carried forward under the flats, B^, to the doffer, L. The flats are 
faced with card clothing, similar to that of the cylinder, and 
embrace a little more than one-third of its circumference and 
travel slowly in the same direction as the cylinder. As the fibers 
are carried under each successive flat, they become more thor- 
oughly cleaned and straightened. The speed of the cylinder 
plays an important part in this operation. If the fibers are short, 
they will be removed by the flats, but if sufficiently long, they will 
hold to the cylinder and be combed by them. The fibers are now 
transferred to the doffer. Just how this is done may be perplex- 
ing to man}^ but if we stop to consider a moment, it will be found 
very simple. Although the surfaces of the cylinder and doffer 
run in the same direction, the clothing of each stands at a differ- 
ent angle, the doffer clothing presenting a series of hooks upon 
which the fibers are caught and drawn from the cylinder. If we 
examine the cylinder closely, we will see that many of the fibers 
stand out from its surface, not in straight lines parallel with the 
circumference, but in a loosely tangled mass which is effected 
partly by centrifugal force but more by the naturally irregular 
disposition of the cotton, and, as most of the fibers are carried 
around by the- cylinder a great many times before they are trans- 
ferred to the doffer, their repeated passing beneath the flats 
changes their position and finally results in their withdrawal 
from the cylinder. Then, too, the fibers cross and recross each 
other, so the withdrawal of one or more easily affects the others. 

Beneath the cylinder is the cylinder screen, K, which extends 
from the leader screen almost to the doffer and which is made in 
two parts, hinged in about the center. For the greater part of 
the length, each half consists of a series of bars, running from side 
to side. If no screen is used under the cylinder, its high surface 
velocity (about 2,150 feet per minute) will cause the fibers to 
stand out and finally become detached but with a screen, this can- 
not happen while the heavier impurities, thrown out by centrifu- 
gal force, fall between the bars. 

The doffer, which is 24| inches in diameter outside of the 
wire clothing, runs at a very slow speed, not over twenty revo- 
lutions per minute at the most. Consequently the fibers are 




W o 



COTTON SPINNING. 



69 



deposited on its surface in a more condensed form than on the 
cylinder and they are carried around and combed off by the 
doffer comb, N, which draws them from the points of the teeth, 
and, as they lie very loosely upon the surface of the doffer, they 
are detached easily. 

The fleece, or web, 
is now passed between 
the calender rolls,M, by 
which it is condensed 
into a soft, rope-like 
mass, called sliver. 
From here it is drawn 
upwards and enters the 
coiler, R, where it is 




Fig. 50. Feed Plate far short staple cotton. 



coiled very compactly into the can, S. 

Feed Plates. Tlie operation of carding having been consid- 
ered in general, the details of the card will now be described, 
starting with the feed plate. 

Figs. 50, 51, 52 and 53 show sections of different feed 
plates, which piovide for the various lengths of fibers, sO that they 
may be combed without injury to the staple. Fig. 50 shows a 
feed plate used for short staple and waste cotton. The distance 
from the bite of the feed 
roll to the lower edge, or 
point where the teeth of 
the leader are nearest 
to the face, is quite 
short. The next plate. 
Fig. 51, is for medium 
length staple and the 
distance from the bite 
of the feed roll to the 
lower edge of the face of 

the feed plate is considerably greater than in Fig. 50, and the nose 
much sharper. Fig. 52 is for long staple Egyptian cotton. It 
will be seen that the distance from the bite of the feed roll to the 
lower edge of the plate is greater than in either of the others and 
the nose is stiU more pointed. 




Feed Plate for medium staple cotton- 



70 



COTTOX SPINNING. 




Fig. 52. Feed Plate for Egyptian Cotton. 



The last plate, sliown iu Fig. 53, is for Sea Island cotton. 
In this style, the length of the face is greater than on the plates 
used for all other varieties of cotton. The exact size and outline 
of the nose and face of the plates are shown at the light hand of 

the drawing in all four 
views; the distance between 
the bite of the feed roll and 
the lower edge of the plate 
is indicated by dotted lines. 
In all cases, this distance 
should be slightly more 
(from ^ to ^ of an inch) 
than the average length of 
staple being worked, other- 
wise, the fibers will be 
broken by the leader teeth trying to take them away before they 
are liberated from the bite of the feed roll. The angle of the face 
of the feed plate should be such as to cause the teeth of the leader 
to comb the fibers for about two-thirds their length before they 
become detached. 

In Fig. 54 is shown 
a section of an adjust- 
able feed plate, intended 
to provide for diiferent 
lengths of fibers. This 
plate consists of two 
parts ; a top piece, A, 
which is movable and 
is adjusted bj^ the screw, 
C, and a base piece, B, 
which is fastened to the 
side of the card. Strips 
of wood, D, of different 

thicknesses, are used to fill the space between the pieces. This plate 
possesses no merits, not giving good results Avhen put into use. 

Fig. 55 shows the method used for feeding the card before 
the feed plate became generally adopted. It may be found still 
on the old style of stationary top cards. Instead of a single feed 




Fig. .53. Feed Plate for Sea Island Cotton. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



71 



FEED ROLL 



roll, two rolls were used which were about 1| inches in diameter. 
Tlie cotton was carried forward between them to the leader, or 
cylindei-, many of the older cards having no leader. The distance 
from the bite of the feed rolls to the point of contact with the " 

leader (indicated by 
i:^ '\ radial lines A and B) 

was about 1|- inches, 
and, unless the fibers 
were at least 1| inches 
long, they became de- 
tached from the bite of 
the rolls before they had 
received any combing 
and tlie cotton was de- 
livered to the cylinder 
in small tufts. To 
remedy this, the rolls were made small in diameter but this 
introduced another evilj the rolls would spring apart in the 
center and cause the lap to be fed very unevenly. 

The half-tone in Fig. 5(:- shows two sections of laps taken 
from cards. The one maiked A was from a card provided with a 
feed plate while B was 
taken from an old 




Adjustable Feed Plate. 




Rolls lor olrl style cards. 



style card with two 

feed rolls. The point, 

where the fibere were 

liberated, is indicated 

by a horizontal line 

and it will be seen 

that in section A, they 

were combed and 

cleaned for a much greater portion of their length than were 

tliose in section B which received very little combing, before being 

taken away by the leader. The fibers are always more or less 

broken by this method. 

Leader, Cylinder and Flats. A section of the leader, the 
cylinder and the parts connected and a section of a flat in relation 
bo the cylinder are shown in Fig. 57. 



72 COTTON SPINNING. 

The mote knife, D, is adjusted in either direction, horizontally 
by moving the bracket, D^, by which it is attached to the leader 
shroud, and vertically by the screw, D^. The correct distance 
from the teeth of the leader may be obtained io this way very 
easily, and as the leader shroud moves with the leader shaft when 
the position of the leader is changed, the mote knife moves with' 
it, avoiding the necessity of resetting. Over the leader is a steel 




Fig. 56. Section of card sliver. 

bonnet, J, called the leader bonnet. At the point where this cover 
and the back plate, T, come together is placed a round iron rod, P, 
covered with flannel, which serves as a fill-up piece, preventing 
the dust and short fibers from blowing out. Resting upon the 
feed roll and between it and the leader bonnet is another rod, P, 
similar to the one just described. At this point, the rod performs 
double duty, keeping the dust from blowing out and also acting 
as a clearer for the feed roll. 

In the section of the flat and the cylinder, it will be seen that 
the space between the wires of each is greater at the toe, or point, 
where the cotton enters than at the heel where it leaves. By 
inclining the flat in this manner, the fibers receive combing from 



COTTON SPINNING. 



73 



the greater portion of its wires, and, as tliey stand out slightly 
from the surface of the cylinder by being drawn into a small 
space, are more easily dealt with than they would be if the flat 
were brought close at the toe. 

Cylinder Doffer and Flats. In Fig. 58 is shown a partial 
section through the cylinder, doffer and jjarts directly connected. 
The flats, B^, pass around the front block, Wi, in the direction 
shown by the arrow and the short fibers, or strippings, which 




Fig. 67. Section of cylinder, leader and flat. 

adhere to them, are removed by the stripping comb, W^. Passing 
along toward the rear of the card, they are cleaned by a revolving 
brush, W^, called the stripping brush which is itself cleaned by a 
stationary comb, W*, called the stripping brush comb. Directly 
beneath the stripping comb is the strip roll, W^. This is a 
wooden roll about 11 inches in diameter, covered with flannel and 
supported at either end by arms, W^. As the flats pass around 
the front block, the strippings, which are removed by the comb, 



111 



COTTOX SPIXXIISIG. 



are wound upon the roll whicli revolves by being held lightly in 
contact with the flats. 

It was the custom, formerly, to allow the strippings to drop 
upon the doffer cover in a loose mass and, when an amount had 
collected, it was removed. Witli tlie .strip roll the striiipings are 
wound in a neat and very compact form and can be removed very 




Fig. 58. Section of cylinder and doffer. 



quickly, and by reason of tlie compactness, the removal does not 
have to be performed so often. 

When it is necessary to grind, or stiip, the cylinder, the door, 
W, which is hinged to the front plate, can be turned down as 
shown by dotted lines. Over the doffer is a cover, h\ called the 
doffer bonnet, which is fastened to the doffer shroud, U, which, 
in turn, is fastened to the doffer bearing, L-'^. 

The main cylinder is made 50" in diameter by 40" or 45" face. 



COTTON SPINNING. 75 

The cloffer is made 24", 27" or 28" in diameter and 40" or 
45" face. The clothing adds |-" to tlie diameter. The flats are 
1|" wide and there are 104 or 110 in a chain. With 104, there 
are 39 at work and with 110, there are 44 at work. 

Settings. A few words may be said now in regard to the 
settings of the various parts of the card, a detail which is very 
often slighted and the quality of the work suffers. 

The construction of the revolving fiat card is such as to 
require very fine adjustment and too much attention cannot be 
given to grinding, setting, stripping and cleaning, as the results of 
poor cai'ding cannot be rectified in any of the subsequent processes. 
Very close setting, with the card freshly ground, will produce 
extra good work but the wires Avill become dull much quicker 
than with more open settings, which are productive of good aver- 
age carding from one grinding to the next. 

Gauges. For setting the doffer, leader, feed plate, screens 
and back and front plates, most niachinerj^ builders supply a four- 
leaf gauge of the following sizes : ^^oq", ^^^-^'^ -^1^^" and ^l^-/ 
thickness. For setting the tops, three gauges with detachable 
handles are used; these are i^^q", i-g-g-Q-" ^'^d iui'o" "^ thickness. 

To understand fully the setting points, reference should be 
made to Figs. 49, 57 and 58. The settings given, although liable 
to slight changes under different conditions, are recommended. 

Gi/li)ider Screen. For setting the cylinder screen,- openings 
are provided in the sides of the screen for inserting the gauge. 
The front part, or nose, of the screen is adjusted by the rod, K'', 
while at the back, where it joins the leader screen, the vertical 
adjustment is obtained by the rod, K.\ and the lateral movement 
is governed by the rod, K*. The center of the screen is adjusted 
by the lever, K', which turns upon a stud, K°. One end of the 
lever is connected to the screen by a pin, K\ the other end i.s 
tapped to receive an adjusting screw, K", which is held between 
the projecting lugs of a stand, K'. 

The usual setting of the screen, from the cylinder wire, at the 
back and center, is about i-jfo" (four gauges, 5, 7, 10 and 12). 
At the front, or doffer end, it is set from y to ^" from the cylin- 
der wire. The setting of the front half of the screen controls the 
side waste and droppings under the doffer. By setting it away 



76 COTTON SPINNING. 

from the cylinder, it allows the fibers to be drawn gradually be- 
tween the screen and cylinder. If set too close, a great amount of 
waste is made as the fibers are thrown oif the cylinder. 

Back Plate. The back plate, T, which extends from the 
leader to the flats, is set, at its lower edge, about -^}^" (two 
gauges, 5 and 10) from the cylinder wire. At the upper edge, 
the best results are obtained by setting it about jf^^" (four 
gauges) from the cylinder wire. This allows the fibers to free 
themselves and stand out a little from the cylinder before they 
meet the flats. 

Leader and Liiader Screen. The leader is set to the cylinder 
with a i^f o'" g'^^g^- The leader screen is set to the leader, at 
the point where it is hinged to the cylinder screen, with a i^f-g-" 
gauge. The nose of the screen, with which the fibers first come 
in contact, is set away from the leader wires from ■^^^^" to 
j^^Jp". This depends upon the condition of the cotton and the 
amount of fly it is desired to remove. By so setting the screen, 
the fibers ai-e drawn gradually into a more compact space, as they 
pass around on the leader, and present a more even sheet to the 
teeth of the cylinder. When it is desired to use the cotton for a 
very fine grade of work, it is best to remove as much fljr as possi- 
ble, at this point, rather than let it fall out between the rolls of 
the drawing frame or during other processes. This may be accom- 
plished by setting the nose of the screen close to the leader, but 
not too close, as it is possible to remove much good cotton. Cor- 
rect setting depends upon the judgment of the carder. The screen 
may be adjusted by the rod, FS the lower end of which passes 
through a bracket fastened to the card side. 

Mote Knife. The mote knife is set from the leader with a 
l^uo'" §'^^8'^' ^'^'^ ^^^^ should be taken that it is set exactly paral- 
lel with the leader. The percentage of waste may be increased 
by changing the height of the knife which is adjusted by the 
screw, D°. 

Feed Plate, For setting the feed plate from the leader, the 
gauge used depends somewhat upon the weight of the lap being 
carded. For a lap weighing 12 ounces per yard or under, a -i^^-^" 
gauge is generally u^ed, while for laps above 12 ounces per yard, 
the setting is sometimes as great as i^^-q" (two gauges). 



COTTON SPINNING. 77 

Stripping Plate. Extending from the doffer to the fiats is a 
polished steel cover, W, called the front or stripping plate. Upon 
the correct setting of this plate, depends the removal of the strip- 
pings from the flats. Usually, it is set, at its lower edge, about 
iooo" fro™ the cylinder and about iff q-" at the top edge. If set 
too close at the top edge, the strippings will be removed from the 
flats by the cylinder when they reach the edge of the plate, and, on 
the other hand, if set away at the top, the fibers will cling to the 
flats and be combed off when they reach the stripping comb. 

Doffer. The doffer is set j/qq-" from the cylinder, close 
enough for any class of vs^ork. 

Doffer Comb. For setting the doffer comb, the ■.^^" gauge 
should be used, although with a very light sliver, a iqW S^'^S'^ 
may be used. 

StrijJping Qomh. The stripping comb should be set to the 
flats with a j-j-fo"" S^^g^- 

Flats. In setting the flats, it is necessary to remove five at 
certain intervals in tire chain, so that the gauge may be admitted 
at points nearly under the sprocket stand, back block, center block, 
quarter block and grinder bracket. The spacing varies, depend- 
ing upon the number of" flats in the chain and the make of the 
card. 

The flats should not be set closer than ^^^g-" to the cylinder, 
and as the setting necessitates a thorough understanding of the 
principles and constraction of the flexible bend, it should be con- 
sidered in reference to it. 

Gearing. The method of driving the various parts of the 
card will now be considered and illustrated by Fig. 59, au eleva- 
tion of the right-hand side of a left-hand card, and Fig. 60, an 
elevation showing the left-hand side. 

To determine the hand of a card, the custom, followed by all 
cotton machinery builders in this country, is to face the machine 
at the delivery, or doffer, end and whichever side the driving pul- 
ley is upon decides the question. Fig. 61 shows a right-hand 
card. Upon the leader is a pulley, B, driven from a large pulley, 
D^, which is upon the cylinder shaft, by the crossed belt, E. The 
doffer comb is driven from the groove in this pulley by the band, 
Di, which passes to a double grooved carrier pulley, C^, from 



115 



COTTOX SPINNING. 



'which passes anotlier band, Ei, to tlio comb pulley. II, also double 
grooved. 




The flats, B'', wluch pass slowly over the (.-vliudei' in tUe 
direction indicated by an arrow, are driven from a sprocket -wheel 



COTTOX SPINNING. 



which is fastened to the inside of the front block, Wi. Motion 
is communicated to tlie latter from the small pulley, C, which is 




upon tiie cylinder shaft, by the belt, W, the pulley, A^ the 
worm, J, the worm gear, F', the worm, U, and the worm gear 



so 



COTTON SPINNING. 



A.i, which is upon the front block shaft. The usual speed of the 
fiats is about three inches per minute. 

The stripping brush is driven from a groove on the inside of 
the pulley, A 3, by the band, B^, and the pulley, J^, while the 
dandy brush, by which the backs of the flats are cleaned before 
they pass around the front block, is also driven from a small 
groove on the inside of the pulley, A^, by the band, C^, and the 
pulley, D^. 

The feed roll is driven from the doffer by the gears, K^ and 

LS the side shaft, C^, and the gears 

G^ and D. The front bearing for 
the side shaft is made so that it may 
be moved, horizontally, disengaging 
the gears, K^ and L^, when it is de- 
sired to stop the feed roll. The lap 
roll is driven from the feed roll by 
the gears G, K, L and M^. 

On the opposite side of the card 
(Fig. 60) is the main pulley, A, 
by which the card is driven. The 
doffer is driven from a pulley, Z, 
which is upon the leader by the belt, 
Ti,the barrowpulley, S^ the pinion, 
T, and the gear, Pi. Compounded 
with Pi is a pinion, Vi, which drives 
the doffer gear, Q. The gears, T, 
Pi and V-, and the barrow pulley 
are fixed upon studs which are carried 
by a lever, P, called the barrow bar. 
By this, the driving of the feed roll, doffer, calender roll and 
coiler is controlled. When it is desired to stop these parts, 
the lever i* dropped which disengages the pinion, V^, from the 
gear, Q. 

The calender rolls are driven from the doiier gear, Q, by the 
gears U, H^ and O. The gear, U, is called the rifle gear and 
revolves upon a sleeve, or bushing, which is connected to a handle, 
Y-. By turning tliis handle about one-quarter of a revolution, 
the rifle gear is drawn sideways and out of gear with Q wliich is 




Fig. 61. Plan of E. H. Card. 



118 



COTTON SPINNING. 



81 



necessary when is it desired to stop the calender rolls and coiler 

and still have the doffer turning. 

Coiler. We will direct our attention now to the gearing of 

the coiler, a vertical section of which is shown in Fig. 62. The 

cotton, after passing between the calender rolls, M and D, enters 

ths coiler, R, through the trumpet, C'', and is drawn between the 

calender rolls, D^, and passes down an inclined hole (or spout) 

in the coiler gear, S^, to 

the can, S, in which it is 

laid in even and regular 

coils. 

The calender rolls are 
driven from the upright 
shaft, L^, hy the gears, N 
and Ni. L^ is driven 
from the bottom calender 
roll on the card by the 
gears Yi, R2, V and Qi. 
By the revolutions of the 
coiler gear, the inclined 
hole describes a circle of 
a little more than half the 
diameter of the can. 

The can rests upon a 
plate, U, called the turn- 
table, \)j which it is re- 
volved slowly in the oppo- 
site direction from the. 
coiler gear and just fast 
enough so that the coils 
shall not overlap) and 
crowd each other. 

On the under side of the turn-table is a gear, driven from the 
upright shaft, L2, by the gears D^, 0\ P2, Y, X and Z^. Qi 
and P2 are compounded and run loose on an upright stud, and Y 
and X are compounded and run loose on the upright shaft. X 
drives the turn-table through the intermediate gear, Z^. A plan 
of this gearing is shown in Fig. 63. 




Fig. 62. Vertical section of coiler. 



IW 



82 



COTTON SPINNINO. 



Fig. 64 is a plan of the eoiler top. The trumpet, C*, is made 
in the form of a large, flat plate whicli cover.s ahno.st tlie whole of 
_^ the top. When it becomes necessary to 

oil the calender roll bearmgs, it can be 
done easily by pushing the plate tn one 
side, as shown in the drawing. By this 
means, piecing is avoided, a feature which 
will be appreciated by all carders who have 
had to break the sliver to oil the eoiler. 
Fig. 65 shows a plan of a eoiler with 
the top raised. The calender rolls are 
kept together by a spring, N^, on the end 
of which is a lever, L. When a wind-np 
occurs on the calender rolls, xhe tension 
upon the spring is removed b}' turning the 
lever. 

5top Motion. One of the recent improvements, which has 
been applied to the revolving fiat card, is a calender roll stop- 
motion which stops the revohitions of the feed roll and doffer 
instantly, when from any cause, the sliver is absent from between 
the calender rolls. 




Fig. 63. Plan of turn- 
table gearing. 





Fig. 64. Plan eoiler top. 



Fig 65. Plan of eoiler with top i-alsec" 



It happens quite frequently that the comb band breaks or 
jumps from the score pulley, stopping the vibrations of the doffer 
comb. If this is unnoticed and the doffer, runs for several minutes 



COTTON SPINNING. 



83 



the card wires get filled with fibers and the ehithing of the oylinder. 
dofEer and flats becomes badly strained. 

When the sliver breaks down from any cause, it often happens 
that it will wind around the comb-lilade. Shoidd the doffer be 
allowed to run in this condition, a bad jamb in the wires of the 
doffer is likely to occur. 

When the clothing is injured from causes of this kind, con- 
siderable time is spent in stripping and brushing out -the card, 
straightening the wires and grinding. Fre(]uently, the clothing 
is rendered useless, as the foundation for the wires is strained so 
badly that its elasticity is destroyed and it is uecessar)- to redraw 
it on both the C3din(ler and the doffer. 





Fig. fi6 and 07. Elevations of calendar roll stop motion. 



The stop-motion is shown in tliree views, in Figs. 66, 67 and 
68, which should be used in connection with Fig. 60. In Fig. 66, 
which is a side elevation, the sliver, A, is shown passing between 
the calender rolls, M and D. Upon the top calender roll, M, is a 
segment gear; F, which rotates with the calender roll, while a 
similar segment, L, is fastened to a sleeve, B, which is loose upon 
the bottom calender shaft, N. On the outer entl of this sleeve is 
a lever, E, whose end rests under the handle of. the lever, H, by 
which the barrow bar, P, is thrown in and out of gear. The 
barrow bar is raised and in gear, as shown by the horizontal posi- 



84 



COTTON SPINNING. 



tion of the lever, H, and, with the silver between the calender 
rolls, it will be seen that the teeth of the segment, F, are raised so 
that it may revolve without imparting motion to the segment, L. 
Should the sliver break or from any cause allow the calender rolls 
to come together, the teeth of F would engage with those of L and 
give to the latter a partial revolution, which would turn the sleeve, 
B, and with it the lever, E. This would cause the lever, H, to as- 
sume the position shown in Fig. 67 and to drop the barrow bar, 
P, and disengage the gears, di-iving the dofler. A plan of this device 
is shown in Fig. 68. 

Flexible Bend. As the flats pass forward over the cylinder, 
they are supported, .as we have already seen, by what is called the 
flexible bend. The surface of the bend is concentric with the cyl- 
inder. By this means, the distance between the wires of the flats 




Fig. 68. Plan of calendar roll stop motion. 



and the cylinder is maintained and upon the correct se'tting, or 
distance between the surfaces, depends, in a great measure, the 
successful working of the card. If the flats are set too far away, 
it will be found that the sHver contains little rolls of tangled 
fibers, called neps, and if set too close, it will show raw, uncarded 
places and look cloudy and rough, and the wires of the clothing 
will become faced from rubbing together. These defects are 
easily distinguishable in the fleece, as it passes from the dofler 
comb to the calender rolls. The flats should be set as close as 
possible without injury to the fibers. An average setting is ri~2T 
of an inch. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



85 



The wire teeth of the flats and cylinder require grinding, from 
time to time, owing to their becoming dulled on the points, and, 
as the grmding operation shortens them slightly, the space between 
the wire surfaces is increased. In order to preserve the correct 
relation between these two surfaces, the flats have to be reset, and 




as the grinding also aft'ects each of the flats, it will be understood 
that they must be lowered, bodily, to the same extent towards the 
center of the cylinder. This is accomplished by changing the radius 
of the flexible bend. 

The most common form of device for changing the radius is 



86 COTTON SPINNING 



called the five-point adjustment and is shown in Fig. 69. This 
differs slightly in design among machinery builders but the prin- 
ciple remains the same. The Ijend is supported at five equidistant 
points, the sprocket stand, A, quarter block stand, B, top block 
stand, C, grinder stand, D, and back block stand, E. At the 
points, A and E, a stud, H, is screwed into the bend, the outer end 
of wliieh passes through a slot in the stands, G. In the lower end 
of the stands is an adjusting- screw, L, which passes through the 
web of the arch upon each side of which are nuts. At the points, 
B and E, the bend is supported by another adjusting screw, M, 
which also passes through the web of the arch, the upper end bear- 
ing against the under side of the bend. At the center point, C, 
the bend is supported by an adjusting screw, N, which passes 
through the web of the arch, as at other points, and the upper end 
of the screw is screwed into the under side of the bend. 

When it is necessary to change the setting of the flats, the 
screws and nuts on each side of the card, by which the bend is 
secured to the stands, are loosened. The screw, M, at B and D, 
should be dropped clear to the bend. Tlie adjusting screws at 
each of the five points are operated upon in turn, the center point, 
C, first, then A and E, and last the points, B and D. By so doing, 
the radius of the bend is made smaller and the flats are drawn 
radially towards the center of the cylinder. It will be seen that at 
the center point, C, the adjusting screw enters the bend so that in 
lowering it this point must fall radially. But at the points, B 
and D, the adjusting screws simjply support the bend, while at 
the ends, A and E, the studs, H, pass through slots in the stands, 
G, ijermitting a slight movement of the bend endwise. Tlie 
reason for this is very simple. As the radius of the bend is made 
smaller, it occupies a greater proportion of the circle, and as the 
center point, C, falls in a radial line, the points A and E, and B 
and D, must partake of a £ombinedmovement, radial and circum- 
ferential. The slots in the stands at A and E permit this, while 
at B and D, the screw, by simply bearing against the under side of 
the bend, offers no resistance to this movement. . 

Another style, shown in Figs. 70 and 71, is called the scroll 
adjustment. The bend, D, is supported at three points by arms, 
A, B and C, instead of five, as in the first one shown, the bend 



COTTON SPINNING. 



fi7 



being made proportionately heavier and stifEer. The arms, A and 
C, are connected to the bend by a stud, F, which passes through a 
slot in the bend. The movement, endwise, is obtained by having 
the slot in the bend instead of tlie arm. The center arm, B, is 
not fastened to the bend, lint acts as a support for it. A pin, E, 




in the ai-m, prevents any circumferential movement of the bend. 
Tlie arms are all made in two pieces, partly for convenience in 
manufacturing and in order to set them alike when the card is 
first erected. Adjusting screws, L, are provided for the two end. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



ones, which, afte:" being- set properly, are secured permanently by 
dowel pins. The lower end of the arms is provided with teeth, 
or threads, which work in the threads of a geared scroll, H, the 
pitch of which is one-half inch. The scroll turns in a recess in 
the arch which is concentric with the cylinder. Aronnd the 
periphery of this scroll is cut a gear of 110 teeth, which is in gear 
with a jpinion, J, of 11 teeth, which is fastened to one end of a 
utud, P ; an index wheel, K, having 50 teeth, or notches, is fas- 
tened to the other end. 




Fig. 71. Section and elevation of scroll. 

It will be seen that, as the pitch of the scroll is one-half 
inch, two revolutions will be necessary to give the arms and bend 
one inch movement, radially, and, as the scroll has 110 teeth, to 
give it two revolutions, would require twenty turns of the 11 
toothed pinion, which would be equal to 1,000 notches. Thus, if 
1,000 notches are required to change the radius of the bend one 
inch, a movement of one notch will change the radius j-j^-g- of an 
inch. After the card has been adjusted, a latch, N, can be pushed 
between the notches of the index wheel and locked, preventing 
the setting from being changed. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



89 



Flat Chain. After the card lias been run some time, the 
chain stretches so that it requires taking up. This is done, ulti- 
mately, by removing a link in the chain, but not until it has 
stretched enough for that ; in the meantime, it is customary to put 
in a quarter block of larger diameter, which is replaced by the 
original when the link is removed. 

A great deal of trouble comes from having the flat chain too 
tight. All that is necessary is to keep the flats against the back 
block. This point should not be overlooked. If the chain is 
slack and the flats hang ofl^ as they pass around the back block, 
they are liable to catch and give trouble, and on the other liand, 
if very tight, the links and bushings will soon wear out and the 




Fig. 72. Adjustable Cylinder Bearing. 

flats will give trouble in grinding by not resting freely on the 
grinding former. 

Adjustable Cylinder Bearing. While a great deal depends 
upon careful setting of the flats, many evils arise, such as the 
wearing of the bearings, due to the weight of the cylinder, the puli 
of the belt and various minor causes, all tending to alter the posi- 
tion of the cylinder and thus destroying its concentricity with the 
bend. When such wear takes place, some means must be pro- 
vided to restore the cylinder to its concentric position. 



ml 



90 COTTON SPINNING. - 

In Fig. 72 a section and a side elevation of an adjustable 
cylinder bearing are shown. The cylinder boxes, or bearings, are 
supported by pedestals, H^. The lower part of each pedestal 
rests upon a slightly tapered plate, H^. Upon either side of the 
pedestals are lugs, H*, which are securely fastened to the card 
frame. From the plate, H^, projects a screw, C^, which passes 
through one of the lugs, while from the pedestal, H^, projects a 
screw, C3, which passes through the other lug. 

When a vertical adjustment of the cylmder is required, the 
tapered plate is given a horizontal movement by turning the nuts 
on the screw, C^, but when a lateral adjustment is desired, the 
pedestal and plate are moved together, both parts being fastened 
to the card fi-aine by cap screws, C*. 

Sometimes, oil from the cylinder bearings runs down ou the 
cylinder head, particular!}^ if the card has been standing idle for 
several days. When this occurs, the oil may get upon the cloth- 
ing of the cylinder, softening the cement with which the several 
layers in the foundation are stuck together and causing them to 
separate and puff up in places and destroy tlie holding power of 
the wire teeth. To prevent this, the pedestal is made with a lip, 
D*, projecting from the back side, directly under the bearing. 
Any oil that drops will be caught by this lip and carried to the 
outer side of the card frame, as indicated by the dotted lines. 

Leader Clothing. The saw-tooth clothing, with which the 
licker-in is covered, is made fi-om thin, fiat, steel wire, about one- 
quarter of an inch in width and one-sixty-fourth of an inch thick, 
with a shoulder on one edge. The teeth are formed by cutting 
out a portion of the thin edge of the wire, making it resemble the 
edge of a saw. Tlie wire is inserted in grooves wliich are cut 
spirally in the shell of the licker-in, and there are, usually, eight 
per inch, giving eight rows of teeth for each inch in the length of 
the face and about 112 teeth for each row in its circumference. 

Two views of saw-tooth clothing are given in Fig. 73, sliovv- 
ing a portion of the licker-in shell with the teeth inserted and a 
side elevation of the teeth with the shell in section. 

Fig. 74 is an enlarged front view of the teeth, showing the 
depth to which the wire is let in to the shell, the shoulder of the wire 
coming just below the surface. After the wire is inserted, the edge 



COTTOX SPIXXIXG. 



9] 



'-1 



Fig. 73. Saw tooth clothing. 



of the groove next to the shoulder is upset slightly, by passing a 
hardened steel disc over its surface, which prevents the wire from 
pulling out. A licker-in, covered with 
this style of clothing, requires no clean- 
ing, stripping nor grinding and is sup- 
erior in every respect to the licker-in 
covered with leather clothing, which is 
used on the old style stationary flat 
cards. 

Clothing for Cylinders, Dofferand 
Flats. The clothing for the cylinder, 
doffer and flats consists of a foundation 
made up of from three to five thick- 
nesses of cotton, wool, linen or other 
materials cemented firmly together, in whicli is set the wires, 
forming the teeth, as shown in Fig. 75 — a side elevation. The 
wire extends from the back side of the foun- 
dation at an angle, until a point nearly half way 
of its length, called the knee, is reached and 
then bends forward, the upper end returning 
to a point about over tlie lower end, as shown 
by the vertical line, A — B. 

Fig. 76, which is a front view, shows that 

the teeth, which are made from a coil of wire, 

are bent into the form of a staple. The two 

upward projecting prongs are called points and the horizontal 

part connecting them is called the crown. 

A 




Fig. 74. Section 
of leader shell, 
Fhowing saw tooth 
clothing. 




Defects in Cloth- 
ing. A matter of 
great importance, 
one which is often- 
overlooked, is the 
amount of angle or 
pitch given to the 
tooth and the posi- 
tion of the point in 
relation to the crown. 

bi one sense, the teeth are a series of hooks liy wliicli the 



Fig. 7-".. Fi^ 

Clothing for cylinder, doffer and Hates. 



92 



COTTON SPINNING. 



fibers are caught and carried forward. If the forward mclination 
of the point is not sufficient, the teeth lose some of their holding 
power, while if the inclination is too great, the holding power is 
such as to cause serious defects in carding. To explain this more 
fully, Figs. 77, 78, 79 and 80, which show several enlarged views 
of card teeth, will be considered. 

In Fig. 77, the crown of the tooth is marked A, the knee is 
marked B and the point, C. The angle of that part of the tooth 
between A and B is about fifteen degrees from a vertical line, and 
this is the average of the wire for cotton card clothing. If the 
angle is increased, as shown in Fig. 78, it is evident that the tooth 
must have a much greater holding power, which will cause the 
short fibers, neps and dirt to be forced to a considerable distance 




Fig. 77. 



Fig. 78. Fig. 79. 

Enlarged views of card teeth. 



Fig. 80. 



beneath the point. Otherwise, they would be caught by the fiats 
or thrown off, to fall through the screws. In this way, the spaces 
between the teeth fill rapidly, which necessitates stripping the card 
much oftener than would be required with the wire set properly 
and it also makes the removal of the strippings much more difficult. 

Another point in connection with the angle of the wire 
being too great, is illustrated in Fig. 79. If the point of the tooth is 
pushed back by a tuft of cotton, there is a liability of its straight- 
ening at the knee, which, acting as a fulcrum, causes the point to 
rise into the position shown by dotted lines. 

Quite a common defect in card clothing is shown in Fig. 80. 
If the point of a tooth stands too far forward of an imaginary ver- 
tical line, drawn through the crown, and the tooth is forced back 
while at work, it will rise above its natural plane to such an extent 



COTTON SPINNING. 93 

as to cause the point to become faced by contact with the other 
wire surfaces of the card. The height of tlie tooth from crown to 
point is usually three-eighths of an inch and the knee is about 
three-sevenths of the distance from tlie crown. Many times, the 
causes of bad carding can be attributed to some of these faults 
rather than to the construction of the machine. 

Foundation for Clothing. The foundation for the teeth 
should be of material that lias the least possible amount of stretchy 
in order to hold the wire firmly enough to carry around the fibers 
which become attached and yet it should be flexible enough so 
that the wires shall spring back to their original position when 
they have been deflected by grinding, or by the strain put upon 
them when the card is in. operation. If the foundation is drawn 
on too tightly, the wires are apt to break at the point where they 
leave the foundation. 

The material, composing the several layers of the foundation, 
is varied somewhat to suit the dijffierent requirements. For the 
cylinder and doffers, it is generally four-ply : first a thickness of 
twilled cotton cloth for the crown side, then a layer of coarse 
linen threads, added to give strength and running lengthwise of 
the clothing, next a thickness of heavy woolen cloth and last 
another facing of twilled cotton cloth. Sometimes, an additional 
facing of rubber is used, which answers a double purpose, giving 
an elastic support to the wire where it leaves the foundation and 
protecting the foundation from dampness. 

For the flats, a three-ply foundation is almost always used, 
called double covered or cotton wool and cotton. The crown and 
face sides are of the twilled cotton and between them is a layer of 
closely woven heavy woolen cloth. The rubber facing is seldom 
added, as the flats in passing back over the cylinder are often 
exposed to the sun's rays, which cause the rubber to harden and 
disintegrate. 

A comparison of tests, made of several kinds of foundations, 
show that a strip two inches wide of the four-ply above referred 
to, when put under a tension of 300 pounds, became elongated 
2 per cent. Four-ply foundation, cotton, wool and cotton, with 
rubber face, became elongated 6J per cent and leather foundation 
elongated 14-| per cent. 



181 



94 



COTTON SPINNING. 



Applying Clothing. The clothing for the cylinder and 
doffer is made in continuous strips and is called fillet. That used 
for the cylinder is usually 2 inches wide and that for the doffer is 
1-^- inches wide. It is drawn on to the surface by a device called 
a clothing machine, which registers the tension put upon it, the 
cylinder being clothed under a tension of about 350 pounds and 
the doffer under about 275 pounds. 

Fig. 81 shows a front and a rear elevation of a doffer. On 
account of the fillet being wound, spirally, around it, the teeth 
must strike the fibers at a slight angle. It is desirous that this 
angle be as small as possible, that the danger of the teeth break- 
ing or being turned from their correct position will be reduced to 



REAR VIETW 



I n 1 1 



FRONT VIEW 



1 1 1 M M I M M M I 1 1 



Fig. 81. Front and Rear Views of Doffer. 



a minimum and, as the doffer is about one-half the diameter of 
the cylinder, the clothing is made narrower so that tiie angle 
of the spiral shall be nearly tlie same as that of the cylinder. 

In putting on the fillet, it is usually cut so as to form wliat is 
called an inside taper, which leaves a stiaight edge extending the 
whole distance around on the outside of each end of the doffer. The 
clothing, whicli starts at A, is three-quarters of an inch wide and 
contmues this widtli until half around tlie doffer, where, at B, it 
commences to widen, and when it has passed around to the point, 

C, beside the starting point, A, it is the full width, li inches. 
At C, the fillet is again cut down to half its width, the portion 
cut out tapering until it reaches a point half aiound the doffer at 

D. From here, it extends in f uU width to the opposite end of the 
doffer where it is tapered to finish in tlie same manner as at the 
starting point. 



COTTON SPINNING, 



95 



In Fig. 82 is shown a strip of fillet with the portion cut away 
for an inside taper. The letters of reference used are the same as 
in the. preceding illustration. 

The fillet for the cylinder is put on with an inside taper, also, 
and in the same manner, but, as the cylinder is more than twice 
the diameter of the doffer, a strip of considerable length has to be 
cut away before the full width is reached. 



Fig. 82. Strip of Doffer Fillet. 

Number of Wire and Points per Square Foot in Clothing. 

The wire teeth are set into the foundation of card clothing in 
three different ways, known as open set, seldom used at the 
present time, twill set, which' is used 
for the flats and rib set, which is 
used for the cylinders and doffers. 
The effect on the face of the clothing- 
is about the same, as far as the 
arrangement of the points is con- 
cerned, in all styles of setting, 

A plan of the back or crown side 
of a strip of fillet with the rib setting 
is given in Fig. 83. The crowns, 
extending across the width of the 
fillet, are four to the inch, conse- 
quently, across a strip of one and 
one-half inch width, there are six 
crowns, and, as the foundation is 
about one-sixteenth of an inch wider 
than the wire surface, a one and' 
one-half inch fillet covers a surface 
about one and nine-sixteenths inches wide. 

The noggs, which run lengthwise of the fillet, are from ten to 
twenty-eight to the inch. A nogg consists of a group of three 
crowns, and, of course, to each crown are two points. The points 
per square foot can be found in the following way: 

Rule. — To find the number of points per square foot, mnlci- 




Fia-. S3. Rib Set Fillet. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



ply together the number of noggs per inch, the crowns per inch, the 
crowns per nogg, points per crown and the number of inches in a 
square foot. Example: In Fig. 83, there are fourteen noggs to the inch; 
the points per square foot will bel4x4X3X2X 144, or 48,384. 

Each nogg added per inch increases the number of points per 
square foot 3,456. Thus, by multiplying the number of noggs 
per inch by this number, the points per square foot can be found. 

Example: 3,456 X 14 = 48,384. 

The twill set is shown in Fig. 84. The crowns extend length- 
M'ise of the strip arid are four to the inch. The noggs are counted 
across and are from five to fourteen per inch. In each nogg there 
are six crowns instead of three, as in the rib set, but the number 
of points per square foot can be calculated in the same way. To 
illustrate tliis, it will be seen that in Fig. 84, there are only seven 
noggs per inch, but as there are just twice as many crowns to each 
nogg, the points per square foot will be the same as in Fig. 83, which 
has fourteen noggs per inch. 

Example: 7X4X6X2X144= 48,384. 

For the twill setting, each additional nogg per inch increases 
the number of points per square foot 6,912. 

When carding low grades of cotton, the wires of the clothing 
are coarser and the number of points per square foot less, and when 
carding long staple cotton, the wire is finer and the number of points 
per square foot on all the clothed surface except the leader is gen- 
erally increased. 

Some machinery builders recommend that tlie cylinder and 
flats be covered with the same clotliing, while others tliink that 
the doffer and flats should be the same. No rule can be given by 
which the number of points per square foot and the size of the wire 
can be determined that will fit all cases. For coarse work. No. 
29 wire with 62,208 points per square foot is usually used for the 
cylinder and flats and No. 30 wire with 65,664 points per square 
foot for the doffer. For medium work, the cylinder and flats are 
usually covered with No. 30 wire, 65,664 points per square foot 
and the doffer with No. 31 wire, 72,576 points per square foot. 
For fine work, the cylinder and flats should have No. 31 wire, 72,576 
points per square foot and the dofl^er No. 32 wire with 79,488 points 
per square foot. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



The following tables give the points per square foot for both 
rib and twill set clothing : 

RIB SET CLOTHING. 

Noggs per inch. Points per square foot. 

10 34,560 

11 38,016 

12 41,472 

13 44,928 

14 48,384 

16 51,840 

16 55,296 

17 58,752 

18 62,208 

19 65,664 

20 69,120 

21 72,576 

22 76,032 

23 79,488 

24 82,944 

25 86,400 

26 89,856 

27 93,312 



TWILL SET CLOTHING. 

Noggs per inch. Points per square foot. 

5 34,560 

5>i 38,016 

6 41,472 

6K 44,928 

7 48,384 

7>i 51,840 

8 55,296 

8}4 '. 58,752 

9 - 62,208 

^'A 65,664 

10 69,120 

10>^ 72,576 

11 76,032 

11 j4 79,488 

12 82,944 

n}i 86,400 

13 89,856 

IZ'A 93,312 

14 96,768 



135 



100 COTTON SPINNING. 

at the present time, is used almost wholly for the revolving flat 
card. It is a matter hard to decide, how much better results are 
obtained with it, but it certainly affords a trifle more space between 
the wires for the reception of dirt, nep and short fibers. 

^Vhen the card is first put into operation, it is difficult to re- 
move the strippings from plough-ground wire, but after the sides 
of the teeth become smooth, by constant stripping, they can be 
removed much easier and better than with any other wire. • 

Grinding. It is necessary to grind the cylinder and doffer 
after they are clothed to make the card work successfully. The 
first grinding requires generally about ten days, depending upon 
the condition of the clothing. If the wires are too hard, and if 
some are higher than others, it often takes much longer. 

After the first grinding, it is necessary, in the ordinary run- 
ning of the card, to grind the cylinder and doffer about once in 
four weeks. When carding long staple cotton, the time is reduced 
to three or even two weeks. The period depends of t.en times on 
the ability of the grinder to perform his allotted duty rather than 
the actual need of the clothing. It is considered that frequent and 
light grinding is better than to wait until the wires have become 
so dull that a severe grinding is necessaiy to restore the points. 

Fig. 86 shows a side elevation of a card with the grinder 
rolls in position. The lap is withdrawn and the cylmder and 
doffer are sti'ipped and brushed clean. The card is run until all 
the flats have passed the stripping brush and comb and have been 
made clean. The main belt, C, is then changed and the cylinder 
is run backwards or in the opposite direction from that which is re- 
quired in carding. The side shaft is slid out of gear and the barrow 
bar is dropped, the doffer being driven by a belt, F, and pulley, J, 
from the pulley, D^, which drives the leader when carding. On 
the end of the grinder rolls are score pulleys, N, which are driven 
from two scores in the pulley, D^, by the bands, D and D. A ■ 
score pulley, E, is placed on the opposite end of the doffer for 
driving the traverse motion of the grinder rolls by means of the 
band, H, and pulley, P. 

Another method of driving the grinder rolls, which is more 
simple and is used considerably, is illustrated in Fig. 87. This 
also requires the belt, F, band. H, and pulleys, J and E, but 




APPARATUS FOR GRINDING FLATS FROM THEIR WORKING SURFACES 

Mason Machine Works. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



101 




102 



COITON SPINNING. 



instead of using the two bands, D and D, for driving the grinders, 
a single band, E^, is used that runs from the groove in the pulley, 
D^, around the pulley, N, on the doffer grinder, then around the 
pulley, NS on the cylinder grinder, and then down around the in- 
termediate comb pulley, N", to the pulley, D^. 

Oil smiie makes of cards, tliis cannot be done, as there is 
no intermediate pulley, the comb being driven directly from the 
groove in the pulley, D^. 

Long=roll Grinder. For the first grinding, the long-roll 
grinder, shewn in Fig. 88, is used. After this, in the periodical 
grinding, unless the Avires become jammed or badly worn, it is 
seldom used. 

It consists of an iron roll, seven inches in diameter, which 
extends across the whole width of the surface to the ground. The 
roll, which is wound with emery fillet, is supported at either end 
by bearings, B, which are mounted in the grinder bi-ackets, C. 




Fig. 88. Long Roll Grinder. 

On one end is a score pulley, N, by which the roll is driven, and 
attached to the other end is a worm, D, which drives a worm gear, 
E. This gear is enclosed in a case, F\ which is shown in section, 
and which forms a bearing for it to turn in. In the hub of the 
gear is a pin, K, which is set eccentrically, so that as the gear 
revolves, the pin describes a circle of about three-eighths of an 
inch radius. Attached to the pin is one end of a yoke, H, the 
other end of wliich is fastened to a downward projecting arm, J 
of the bearing. The revolutions of the grinder roll cause the 
worm gear to turn, and, through the pin in its hub and the con- 
necting yoke, the roll is given a movement, endwise, of about 
three-fourths of an inch. This is done to prevent the high wires 
of the clothing from receiving grinding from the same portion of 
tlie face of the roll at all times, this preventing the emery fillet 
from becoming worn and hollow in places. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



103 



Traverse Grinders. After the long o-iinrlni' lias been used a 
sufficient time, tlie sliort or traverse grinder, shown in elevation 
and section in Fig. 89, is used. The grinder roll, L, wliicli is the 
same diameter as the long grinder, is about four inches wide on 
the face. It is mounted upon a shell, i\I, which has a slot, D, 
extending throughout its length. Within the shell is a recipro- . 
eating screw. A, to which the grinder roll is connected by a dog, 
E, which slides in its threads. A score pulley, N, by which the 
shell is driven, is fastened to one end while the screw is driven 
from the other end of the shell by a train of gears, H, J, S and T, 
which have 22, l(i, 15 and 23 teeth, respectively. H is fastened 
to the shell and drives J which is compounded with S and runs 
loose on a stud, B. T is i'astened to the screw and is driven by 




FifT. -8t>. Traverse Grinder. 



S. The gears are enclosed in a case, F, which, to prevent its 
turning, is fastened to the grinder bracket, C, by a lug. By this 
means, the shell, which carries the grinder roll, is run at a greater 
speed than the screw, causing the grinder roll to move longitudi- 
nally along the shell, and as the screw is cut with right and left 
hand tiireads, a reciprocal movement is given to the grinder, which 
causes it to move back and forth from one side to the other of the 
surface being ground. 

For each hundred revolutions of the .shell, the screw turns 
89.67 revolutions in the same direction (10.33 i-evolutions less 
than the shell) and as the screw is one and one-half inches pitch, 
10.33 revolutions will move the grinder roll 151 inches along the 
shell. 



104 



COTTON SPINNING. 



Another style of traverse grinder is shown in Fig. 90, which 
consists of a roll, L, a screw, A, a dog, E, and a shell, M, with a 
slot, D, all of which are the same as on the grinder shown previ- 
ously. On one end of the grinder is a pulley, N, which drives the 
shell ; on the other end is a similar pulley, P, of slightly different 
diameter. The shell and screw are thus run at different speeds 
and the roll is traversed to and fro on the shell. This style of 
grinder requires the pulley, E, and band, H, as shown in Figs. 86 
and 87 to drive the screw for the traverse. 




Pig. 00. Traverse Grinder. 



Speed of Qrinder Rolls. The surface speed of the cylinder 
is about 2,200 feet per minute and that of the doffer is 1,921 
feet per minute. The surface speed of the grinders is about 900 
feet per minute in the opposite direction from the cylinder and 
doffer. This gives a total surface speed for the cylinder grinder 
of 2,200 feet plus 900 feet, which makes 3,100 feet per minute, 
and for the doffer, it is 1,921 feet plus 900 feet, which makes 2,821 
feet per minute. This is considered as high speed as hardened 
and tempered steel wire will stand. The doffer is run at a slightly 
slower surface speed as it does not require as much grinding as 
the cylinder. 

When grinding the flats, there is no loss in production from 
stopping as the work is done while the card is in operation. 

Flat Grinders. The flat-grinding device, which is a part of 
the card, is attached in different positions. Upon some cards, the 
grinding is done as the flats return over the top of the cylinder 
between the front sprocket and center block ; other makers grind 
just back of the center block, while upon some cards, the flats are 
ground directly above the licker-in as they pass around the back 
block. 

With the grinding device attached in either of the first two 
positions mentioned, the flats are ground in an inverted position. 



COTTON SPIN KING. 



105 



By some, this is considered an evil, the claim being made that the 
flats deflect slightly in the center by tlieir own weight and cause 
the grinding loU to bear harder on the ends and when they pass 
around on to the cylinder, the deflection is in the opposite direc- 
tion, which produces a convex suiface, making the wires in the 
center a trifle closer to the cylinder than at the ends. This makes 
an error in setting. 

When the flats are ground as they pass around the back 
block, their working face is downward, in the same position as 
when they rest upon the bend. By grinding in this position, the 




Fig. 91. Elevation of Grinder Roll and Flat. 

disadvantage arising from deflection is eliminated. Opinions 
are divided in regard to which is in the best position. The exist- 
ing evil, if it can be called such, caused by deflection, is often 
magnified and no perceptible difference in the working of the 
card can be seen. 

To have the flats alike and perfectly accurate, they should be 
ground from the same surface which bears upon the bend, but 
owing to their being closer to the cylinder at the heel than at the 
toe, this surface is not parallel with the face of the flat. This 
presents a problem which has been given considerable attention 



]06 



COTTON SPINNING. 



and tvhicli will be uudei'stood better by referring to Fig. 91. 
The surface of the flat whicli liears upon the bend is indi- 
cated by tlie horizontal line, A — B, and the face by the line, 
C — D, tlie heel of the flat by E and the toe by F. The center of 
the grinding roll is indicated by the vertical line, G — H, which is 
at right angle to the line, A — B. As tlie flat which passes in the 
direction shown by the arrow, comes over the center of the grind- 
ing roll, the wires on the heel will receive grinding, but as it ad- 




Fig. 92. Elevation Showing Position of Flat Grinders "Wheu in Use. 



vances until the toe comes to this point, it is evident that it will 
receive no grinding, owing to the inclination of the wire face. 
The flats must therefore be tipped, as they pass the grinding roll, 
so that they shall be ground parallelly to tlieir working face. 
This necessitates a special suiface, called a "grinding former," for 
the flats to bear upon. 



COTTON S2INNING. 



107 



A device for grinding the flats with the face down is shown 
in Fig. 92'. The grinding roll, L, is mounted in self-adjusting 
bearings, D, which are supported by brackets, E, and which are 
adjustable from the gi-inding former. A, by means of the screw, B. 
The grinding former and bracket, which are connected to the lever, 
F, are pivoted upon a stud, C. A weight lever, G, pivoted upon 




Fig. 93. Elevation Sliowiiig Position of Flat Grinder When Not in Use. 



a similar stud, H, is connected to tlie lever, F, by a curved arm, J. 
The weight lever is thrown forward and holds the former firmly 
in position against tlie bearing surface of the flats as they pass 
around tlie sprocket wheel, M. The surface of the former is so 
shaped as to tip the flats enough to cause giinding to take place 
across the whole width of the face. 

Fig. 93 shows the position of the grinding apparatus when 



108 



COTTON SPINNING. 



the card is not being ground ; the weight lever is thrown back, 
dropping the grinding former out of contact with the flats. 

An attachment for grinding the flats, in an inverted position 
over the cylinder, is shown in Figs. 94 and 95. The grinding roll, 
L, is mounted in bearings. A, which are adjusted from the grinding 
bracket, C, by the screws, B. The grinding former, D, is fastened 
securely to the grinding bracket with the bearing surface down- 




Fig. 94. Elevation Showing Flat Grinder. 



ward. The flats are kept in contact with the former by a weight 
lever, F, which is pivoted upon a stud, G, and which has a weight, 
H, upon its outer end. As the flats pass along to the grinding 
former, they are supported upon the projecting arms, E, of the 
bracket, but as they come directly under the grindmg roll, they 
are raised slightly by the rounding end of the weight lever, and, 
by means of the weight, are held firmly against the former. 

Grinding Former. Figs. 96, 97 and 98 show the grinding 



COTTON SPINNING. 



109 



former with the flats in three positions. It will be seen that the 
former is made with an offset, directly under the center of the grind- 




Fiff. 95. Section Showing Flat Grinder. 




Fig 96. Position of Flat before Grinding. 

ing roll, equal to the difference in the height of the bearing surface 
between the heel and toe of the flat. 



i4r 



no 



COTTOK SPINNING. 



In Fig. 96, the flat is shown advancing towards the grinding 
roll with the wire face at an angle. Fig. 97 shows the flat in 
contact with the grinding roll. The offset in the former tips the 




Fig. 97. Position of Flat when Grinding. 

flat just enough to cause the wire face to pass horizontally 
beneath the grinding former. Fig. 98 shows the flat as having 




Fig. 98. Position of Flat after Grinding. 



passed the grinding roll, its wire face assuming an angular posi- 
tion. When the flats are not being ground, the weight lever is 
raised and held up by the hook, J. (Figs. 94 and 95.) Tliis 



COTTON SPINNi>^-Q_ 



drops the slmrt end of tlie lever out of contact with the flats 
which pass along clear of the grinding former. 

Burnishing. It is necessary, nsually, to burnish the teeth of 
the card clothing, after the card is first ground, to remove the 
burrs and rough edges which are foi'med sometimes upon the 
teeth, particularly when the}^ are overground. Burnisiiing is 
also resorted to when tlie teeth become rust^-. Otherwise, the 
sliver will show streaks of cloudy and uncarded cotton. 

Burni.shing is done by a re- 
volving wire-toothed brush which 
is mounted in suitable bearings. 
Its teeth penetrate from -^ to yL 
of an inch below the points of the 
caid teeth and it is usually about 
seven inches in diameter over the 
jjoints of the teeth. It is shown 
in end elevation in Fig. 99. The 
brush consists of a wooden roll, 
wound with straight wire fillet, 
number 32 wire being used, with 
about 6-^ iioggs per inch. The 
wires are about ^ of an inch high, 
above the crown, and stand radially from the center of the roll. 

An elevation of the card with the burnishing brushes in 
position is shown in Fig. 100. The cylinder and doffer are 
burnished at the same time. The device for driving the various 
parts, although very simple, requires some explanation. The 
brushes, D, D, are supported at each end by stands which are 
adjusted from the arches of the cylinder and doffer. Upon the 
ends of the brush shafts are pulleys, E and E. In place of the 
usual barrow bar pulley is a pulley, H, the face of which has 
grooves for the bands, B, M and N. 

In the face of the loose pulley. A, on the end of the cylinder 
shaft, is a groove which carries the band, B, for driving the pulley, 
H, while the burnishing brushes are driven from H by the bands, 
M and N. The doffer is also driven from the pulley, H, by the 
gears, T, Pi, V^ and Q, the last being upon the doffer shaft. On 
the opi)Osite end of the doffer, shown by dotted lines, is a pulley, 




Elevation of BuiniBliing 
Brush. 



112 



COTTON SPINNING. 




COTTON SPINNING. 



113 



J, by which the cylinder is driven through the belt, F, and pulley, 
D^. As motion is transmitted to all parts of the machine 
through the band, B, it must be kept reasonably tight. 

The main belt, C, is run on the loose pulley. A, which should 
be caused to turn backwards, or in the same direction as the 
cylinder, when grinding and burnishing. This may seem, at a 
glance, to be unnecessary, as the band, B, can be crossed to give 
the proper direction to the cylinder and doffer, but should the belt 
by any cause be moved on to the tight pulley, considerable damage 
might be done to the teeth of the cylinder, as it would be turning 
in the opposite direction to the loose pulley, but with the loose 
pulley turning in the same direction as the cylinder, no accident 
can happen to the cylinder clothing if the belt should slip on to 
the tight pulley. 

Stripping. Under ordinary 
conditions, the card requires to be 
stripped twice each day. For 
waste and very short and dirty 
cotton, it should be done four times 
a day. 

The operation consists in re- 
moving the dirt and short fibers 
which become lodged in the wires 
of the cylinder and doffer while 
the card is at work. 

The stripping brush, shown in 
end elevation in Fig. 101, is of 
about the same size and general 
appearance as the burnishing brush, 

except that the wires are bent, similarly to the card clothing 
teeth, instead of being straight. 

Fig. 102 shows the card in elevation with the stripping 
brush mounted in the stands in position for cleaning the cylinder 
and doffer. It is set so that its wires penetrate about | of an 
inch into the card teeth and it is driven from a groove in the 
loose pulley, A, by a band, P, and pulley, S. 

The main belt, C, is run on to the tight pulley just far 
enough to turn the cylinder around very slowly, one revolution 




Fig. 101. 



Elevation of Stripping 
Brush. 



lit COTTON^ SPINNli\G. 

being suflicient. The surfaces of the. cylinder and brush, which 
are in contact, turn in tlie same direction, but, as the briis]i runs 
at a much greater speed, the dirt is removed very easilj^ Tlie 
band is then taken off and the brush is placed in positidu for 
stripping the doffer, being driven by a band, E, in tlie same 
manner as is the cylinder. Previous to stripping the doffei', the 
driving belt is moved on to the tight pulley and allowed to 
remain while tlie brush is being placed in position and is then 
moved back on to the loose pulley for driving the brush. The 
barrow bar, which has remained down, is now thrown into gear; 
the do3^er is allowed to make one revolution and is driven through 
the regular gearing, from the momentum acquired by the cylinder, 
while the belt was on the tight pulley. 

It will be seen that the surface of the doffer runs in the 
opposite direction from the brush, but the wires of each are bent 
at such an angle that the work is easily accomplished. After the 
card is stripped, the brush itself needs cleaning, which is done by 
a hand card. 

Calculations. Tlie production of the card is governed by the 
weight of tlie sliver per 3'ard and the number of revolutions of 
the doffer per minute. Although the doffer is not the actual 
deliveiy roll, it is considered in the calculations. To have this 
fully understood, diagrams, showing the gearing of four of the 
leading makes of revolving flat cards, are shown in Figs. 103, 1 04, 
105 and 106. The gearing' of all is very similar so that what- 
ever calculations are made upon one may be very easily followed 
through upon another. These calculations are figured from the 
gearing shown in Fig. 106. 

The doffer is 24^ inches in diameter on the face of the cloth- 
ing, therefore, each revolution that it makes will deliver a length 
of sliver equal to its circumference which is 77.75 inches. But 
after leaving the doffer, the sliver jiasses between the calender 
rolls on the card and then between the calender rolls in the coiler 
box, where in each case it is subjected to a slight draft. This addi- 
tional draft, or elongation, reduces the weight of the sliver some- 
what from what it weighed at the doffei-, so that, as the calender 
rolls in the coiler are the actual delivery rolls, the length de- 
livered by them at each revolution of the doffer should be 



COTTON Sl'INNIXO. 



115 



&3rx 




116 COTTON SPINNING. 

considered in figuring the production. Tliese rolia are 2^ inches 
in diameter and make 13.22 revolutions to one of the doffer. This 
gives a delivery of 88.25 inches for each revolution, instead of 
77.75 inches, as when taking the actual circumference of the doffer. 

Rule 1. To find the production of the card: Multiply to- 
gether the number of revolutions of the doffer per minute (13), 
the nujnber of inches delivered at each revolution (88.25), the 
weight of the sliver per yard (60 grains) and the number of 
minutes run per day (600). Divide the product by 7,000 (the 
number of grains in one pound) multiplied by 36 (number of 
inches in a yard). 

Example: ' 13 X 88.25 X 60 X 600 ^ ^^33^ 
^ 7000 X 36 

In the above example, the time run per day is given as 600 
minutes, or ten hours, no allowance having been made for the time 
lost in stripping and cleaning, which, under ordinary circum- 
stances, amounts to about 5 per cent. 

Rule 2. To find the factor for the production of the card in 
10 hours : Proceed as in Rule 1 but omit the revolutions of the 
doffer and the weight of the sliver. 

■^ , 88.25 X 600 „^„.i 

Example: '^ „^ = .21011 

^ 7000 X 36 

Rule 3. To find the production with factor given: Multi- 
ply the factor by the number of revolutions of the doffer and the 
weight of the sliver. 

Example: ;21011 X 13 X 60 = 163.89 

Rule 4. To find the speed of the doffer : Multiply together 
the driving gears and the number of revolutions of the cylinder 
(165 R. P. M.) and divide their product by the product of the 
driven gears. [The driving gears are D^, Z, T (change gear, 30 
teeth) and V^-] (The driven gears are B, Si, Pi and Q.) 
165 X 18 X 6 X 30 X 20 

Example: 7 x 12 X40X 192 = ^^'^^ ^- ^- ^- 

Rule 5. To find the factor for the speed of the doffer: Pro- 
ceed as in rule 4, but omit the doffer change gear. 

Iu5x 18x' 6 X 20 
Example: 7 X 1:^ X 40 X 192 = '^^^ 



COTTON SPINNING. 



117 




118 COTTON SPINNING. 

Rule 6. - To find the speed of the doff er : Multiply the fac- 
tor by the number of teeth (30) in the doffer change gear. 

Example: .552 X 30 = 16.56 

Rule 7. " To find the number of teeth in the doffer change 
gear that will give the required revolutions of the doffer : Divide 
the required number of revolutions by the factor. 

Example: 16.56 H- .552 = 30 

In Rule 5, the factor for the speed of the doffer is figured 
with the cylinder at 165 R. P. M., but as the cylinder is often 
run at other speed, it is convenient to have a factor which can be 
used with the cjdinder at any speed. 

Rule 8. To find the factor for the speed of the doffer with 
the cylinder at any speed : Multiply together the driven geai-s and 
divide the product by the product of the driving gears, omitting 
the doffer change gear. 

T X 12 X 40 X 192 
Example: 18 x 6x20 = ''^^'^^ 

Rule 9. To find the speed of the doffer: Multiply the num- 
ber of revolutions of the cylinder by the number of teeth in the 
doffer change gear and divide the product by the factor. 

165 X 30 
Example: ^^g gg = 16.57 R. P. M. 

Rule 10. To find the number of teeth in the doffer change 
gear when the speeds of the cylinder and doffer are given: Mul- 
tiply the factor by the number of revolutions of the doffer and 
divide the product by t!ie revolutions of the cylinder. 

298.66 X 16.57 
Example: jgg = 29.99 

Rule 11. To find the draft of the card between the feed 
roll and the calender rolls in the coiler box: Multiply together 
the driving gears and the diameter of the coiler calender roll and 
divide the product by the product of the driven gears multiplied 
by the diameter of the feed roll, omitting all intermediate gears. 
[Tlie driving gears are G^, L*, Q, Y^, V and N, and the driven 
gears are D, (change gear 16 teeth) Ki, O, R2, Qi and N^.] As L* 



COTTON SPINNING. 



119 




CALETIMDER ROLL 
M 15 



157 



1-20 COTTON SPINNING. 

and Ri, V and Qi and N and N^ are in pairs, they may be omitted 
in the calculation. In order to avoid fractions, the diameter of 
the feed roll, which is 2^ inches, can be called 18, as there are -^ 
in 2| inches, and the diameter of the coiler calender roll, which is 
2-|, can be called 17. 

^ , 120 X 192 X 31 X 17 

^^^™Pl«= 16 X 30 X 10 X 18 = ^-^-^^ 

Rule 12. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in Rule 11 
but omit the draft change gear. 

^ , 120 X 192 X 31 X 17 

Example: 30 X 15x18 = ^^^^'^^^ 

Rule 13. To find the draft: Divide the factor by the num- 
ber of teeth in the draft change gear (16). 

Example : 1499.02 -4- 16 = 93.68 

Rule 14. To find the number of teeth in the draft gear 
when the draft is given : Divide the factor by the draft. 

Example : 1499.02 -^ 93.68 = 16 

Rule 15. To find the draft of the card necessary to make a 
sliver of a certain weight from a lap of a given weight : Multiply 
the weight of the picker lap in ounces per yard (14) by the num- 
ber of grains in one ounce (437.5) and divide the product by the 
weight of the sliver in grains per yard, that it is desired to make 
(60). 

14 X 437.5 
Example: ^— g^ = 102.08 

In the foregoing rule, no allowance has been made for the 
loss in weight in carding due to fij and strippings, which 
amounts, on an average, to 5 per cent, which should be con- 
sidered. 

Example: 14 X 437.5 X -95 ^ ^^_^^ 

Rule 16. To find the length in feet of fillet nece.^ssary to 
cover a cylinder or doffer: Multiply together the length of the 
face of tlie doffer (41") by its diameter and 3.1416 and divide the 



COTTON SPINNING. 



121 




LENDEfS ROLLi 



122 COTTON SPINNING. 



product by the width of the fillet (1|-") multiplied by 12 inches. 

41 X 24 X 3.1416 
Example: . ^ -.^ = 171.74 

The foUowiug are the draft factors and factors for the speed 
of the doffer for the cards shown in Figs. 103, 104 and 105. 

Fig. 103. Draft factor . The driving gears are B, F, H, P and 
N. The driven gears are D (change gear), E, S, M and L. E 
and F are in pairs. The feed roll is 2| inches in diameter and 
the coiler calendar roll is 2 inclies in diameter. Their diameters 
can be called 9 and 8 respectively 

120X190X23X21X8 _ 
21 X 17X 18X 9 - ^^"^-^^ 

Factor for the speed of the doffer with the cylinder at 165 
R. P. M. The driving gears are A, R and T (change gear). 
The driven gears are C, G and H. 

165 X 18 X 4 

12 Cl — 4Q6'> 

7X18X190 — -^^°*' 

Fig. 104. Draft factor. The driving gears are B, F, H, P 
and N. . The driven gears are D (change gear) E, S, M and L. 
E and F are in pairs. The feed roll is 2^^ inches in diameter, or 
I?, and the coiler calender roll is l-J-l inches in diameter, or 41' 

lb lb 'ID 

The diameters may be called 39 and 27, respectiv ly. 

130 X 190 X 29 X 24 X 27 _ 
28 X 15 X 18 X 39 — l-^T4.-b 

Factor for the speed of the doffer with the. cylinder at 165 
R. P. M. The diiviiig gears are A, R and T (cliange gear). 
The driven gears are C, G and H. 

165 X18X4 _ 
"Tx 15 X it<o - -^^^^ 

Fig. 105. Draft factor. The driving gears are S, E, M, C, J 
and V. The driven gears are D (change gear), P\ P, H, K and R. 
E and F and V and R are in pairs. The diameter of the feed roll 
and the coiler calender roll can be called 9 and 8, respectively. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



123 




2 8 DIA. 
NDER ROLL 



124 COTTON SPINNING. 

160 X 192 X 39 X 36 X 8 _ 
27 X 38 X 18 X 9 — -"<o-»-± 

Factor for the speed of the doffer with the cylinder at 165 
R. P, M. The driving gears are N, L and T (change gear). 
The driven gears are B, G and M. The diameter of L, which is 
4^- inches, can be called lY, and the diameter of G, which is 15| 
inches, can be called 62. 

165X18X17 

7X62X192--''"^^ 




s^ 



COTTON SPINNING, 

PART m. 



COMBING. 



In the manufacture of the finer qualities of yarn which de- 
mand long staple cotton, the combing process, wliich is necessary, 
follows carding, although the card sliver is very often subjected 
to one process of drawing before it is combed. Briefly .speaking, 
the operation of combing, which is entirely different from all other 
branches of cotton spinning, consists in removing the short fibers 
and neps which reiaiain in the sliver after carding. 

Combed yarns are used for various purposes, among which 
may be mentioned hosiery and underwear, sewing thread, laces 
and fine cotton fabrics. 

In considering the uses for combed yarns, three important 
points should be kept in view iu order to thoroughly understand 
the merits of combing ; first, the length of the cotton fibers, sec- 
ond, the twist per inch in the yarn and third, the counts of yarn 
spun. 

Yarn depends, mainly, for its strength upon the amount of 
twist it contains and the length of tlie fibres. For liosiery and 
underwear, it must be soft twisted so that it will be smooth to the 
touch, and, in order that it shall be sufficiently strong-, long staple 
cotton must be used. 

Yarn for thread and fine cotton fabrics is much liarder 
twisted, and, as the fine numbers of 3rarn contain comparatively 
few fibers per cross section, they must be long enough to receive 
a sufficient number of twists. It will thus be seen that the fibers 
in combed yarn must be approximately uniform in length which 
result can be obtained only by combing. 

Arrangement of Combing flachines. There are geneialiy 
three machines used in the combing process, viz : The sliver lap 
machine, the ribbon lapper and the comb, although very often the 
ribbon lapper is not used. In that case, the slivers, after leaving 
the card, are put through one process of drawing and from the 



126 COTTON SPINNING. 

drawing frame are put through the sliver lap machine and made 
into a. lap for the comb. When all three machines are used, the 
drawing process is usually omitted before combing and the ribbon 
lappei', which corresponds to it, is used instead. But in all cases, 
the sliver lap machine is necessary to prepare the laps for comb- 
ing and two or three drawing processes are necessary after 
combing. 

To make this perfectly clear, the different arrangements of 
the machines used in combing are given below. 

With the ribhon lapper the machines used are : 

1. Sliver lap machine. 

2. Ribbon lapper. 

3. Comb. 

Whe7i the ribbon lapjjer is omitted, the machines used are : 

1. Drawing frame. 

2. Sliver lap machine. 

3. Comb. 

When the draiving frame is used with the ribbon lapper, the 
following machines are used : 

1. Drawing frame. 

2. Sliver lap machine. 

3. Ribbon lapper. 

4. Comb. 

Sometimes double comhiny is resorted to for the very best yarn. 
TJie machines are then arranged in one of the two following orders: 

1. Sliver lap machine. 

2. Ribbon lappei. 

3. Comb. 

4. Sliver lap machine. 

5. Ribbon lapper. 

6. Comb. 

If the ribbon lapper is omitted. 

1. Drawing frame. 

2. Sliver lap machine. 

3. Comb. 

4. Drawing frame. 

5. Sliver lap machine. 

6. Comb. 



166 



COTTON SPINNING. 



127 



Sliver Lap Hachine. The sliver lap machine prepares the 
laps for the comb by laying the card or drawing frame slivers, as 
the case may be, in tlie form of a nari'ow slieet which is wound 
upon a wooden core, or spool, into a lap 12 inches to 14 inches in 
diameter. The number of slivers at the back of the machine 




depends upon their weight and the width of the lap to be made. 
In the earlier types of these machines, the laps were made 7 to 9 
inches in width but the present ones are built to make a lap 10 
to 11 inches wide. This will require fourteen to twenty slivers, 



128 



COTTOiSr SPINNING. 



and, as the laps must be free from thin places, the machine is pro- 
vided with a stop motion, which instantly operates, when a sliver 
breaks or a can becomes empty. 

An elevation of the machine is shown in Fig. 107 and a sec- 




tion in Fig. 108. From the cans, A, the slivers are drawn over 
the stop-motion spoons, B, and through the guides, C, and between 
three pairs of draft rolls, D, E and F, where they are subjected to 
a slight diaft, from two to three usually being sufficient, as all 



COTTON SPINNING. 129 

that is required is to straighten the sUvers slightly, so that the 
needles of the conih may deal more gently with the fibers, particu- 
larly -when the ribbon Tapper is omitted between the sliver lap 
machine and the comb. From the draft rolls, the slivers next 
pass between two pairs of heavily weighted smooth calender rolls, 
H H, and, H H, and are formed into a thin, fleecy sheet which is 
drawn forward and wound upon a wooden spool into a lap, which 
is revolved by contact with a pair of fluted lap rolls, N N. The 
ends of the laps are formed bj^ a pair of plates, M, which revolve 
with the lap, making very even selvages. 

Directly beneath the lap rolls is a friction or break pulley, S, 
which is keyed upon a shaft, T. Aronnd this pulley is a leather 
strap, W, both ends of which are fastened to a foot lever, 0, 
which is himg upon a stud, V. Upon the long end of the foot 
lever is a weight, X. The lever is balanced so that the weight 
keeps the strap tight at all times. Upon each end of the shaft 
with this pulley is a pinion, R, in gear with a rack, P, the end of 
which is connected to the lap roll arbor, L, which passes through 
the spool upon which the lap is wound. As the lap increases in 
diameter, it lifts the racks, the upward movement of which is re- 
tarded by the friction of the sti-ap around the break pulley. By 
this means, the laps are wound very firmly and compactly. 

In addition to the back stop-motion, the machine is provided 
with a full lap stop-motion, or measuring device, whereby the size' 
and weight of the laps may be governed. This is operated by a 
projecting piece on one of the racks which comes in contact with 
the stop-motion arm as the lap reaches its full diameter. To 
remove the lap, the attendant presses upon the foot lever, re- 
leasing the strap from around the break pullej'. The lap is then 
raised clear of the lap rolls by the hand wheel, N, and the arbor is 
withdrawn. 

The draft rolls are dead weighted, each roll having an inde- 
pendent weight, Gi, hung by stirrups, in the usual manner. In 
each weight is a square hole through which extends the shaft, G, 
which has a cam-shaped projection along its face. This shaft is 
supported by bearings at each end and at one end is a handle, G", 
by which the shaft may be turned. When it is desired to remove 
the weight from the draft rolls, this shaft is given. a q uarter revo- 



130 



COTTON SPINNING. 



DRAFT SEAR 



lution and its cam-shaped face brought against the upper side of 

the hole in the weights. In this manner, the Aveight may be 

entirely removed from the rolls and transferred to the shaft. 

The top pair of calender rolls is jDrovided with a top clearer, 

C^, which consists of a 
heavy iron piece, lined 
with clearer clotli. The 
underside of this piece 
is shaped to fit the out- 
line of the calender rolls, 
its weight holding it 
firmly down upon them. 
The clearer, F^, for the 
under pair of calender 
rolls is also shajjed to 
fit the rolls but is of 
wood instead of iron. 
It is held up against the 
rolls by a counter- 
weight, H^, which is 
hung upon a stud, Li. 
The draft lolls are also 
provided with a clearer, 
D 1 . In addition to their 
own weight, the top cal- 
ender rolls are lever 
weighted, the rod, Ei, 
connects the 3-oke which 
is over the bearings of 
the top I'olis with the 
weight lever, N^, upon 
which is the weight, P' . 

The fulcrum for the weight lever is a projecting lug. Si, upon the 

frame of the machine. 

Calculations. Fig. 109 is a diagram of the gearmg of the 

sliver lap machine. 

Rule 1. To find the draft: Multiply the number of slivers, 

entering- at the back (16), by their weight in grains per yard 




Fig. 109. Diagram of Gearing of 
Sliver Lap Macliine. 



COTTON SiPINNING. 



131 



(42.5) and divide the product by the weiglit of the lap in grains 
per yard (272). 

42.5x16 



Example : 



272 



2.5 



This will require a draft gear of 55 teeth which is shown on 
the plan of the gearing. 

Rule 2. To find the production of the machine : Multiply 
together the revolutions of the' calender roll per minute (60), the 
cii'cumference of the calender roll (15.70"), the weight of the lap 
in grains per yard (272) and the minutes run per day (600) and 
divide the product by 7,000 (the number of grains in one pound) 
multiplied by 36 (inches in one yard). 

60x15.70x272x600 

^^^™P^^= 7,000X36 



PULLEYS I2."x2i" 



= 610.5 




Fig. 110. Plan of Sliver Lap Machine. 

From this amount should l)e deducted about ten per cent for time 
lost in dofBng. 

An examination of the gearing will show that on the driving 
shaft is a pinion of 29 teeth which drives the calender roll gear of 
72 teeth. The driving pulleys thus make 2.48 revolutions to one 
of the five inch calender rolls. The speed of the driving pulley is 
from 125 to 250 revolutions per minute. 

A plan of the sliver lap machine is shown in Fig. 110. The 
floor space, occupied with 16 cans at the back, is 9' 0" long by 
4' 2" wide. The driving pulleys are always on the left hand side. 



U2 



COTTON SPINNING. 



Tlie fQllowiiig table gives tlie production of the sliver lap 
machine per day with the lap weighing from 200 to 310 grains per 
yard and the speed of the calender rolls from 60 to 100 revolutions 
per minute. 

SLIVER LAP MACHINE. 

Production Per Day of 10 Hours, Less 10 Per Cent for Cleaning, etc. 



a S, 


S'gW 








Wei 


ght of 


Lap 


n Grains per Yaicl. ' 






^^s 


200 


210 


220 


230 


240 


250 


260 


270 


280 


290 


300 


310 


ft a 


c.ua'a 


























> t 


>'o5 
















1 








K fl 


« 6 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. Lbs. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 


Lbs. 


124 


50 


336 


353 


370 


387 


404 


420 


437 


454 


471 


488 


505 


.522 


136 


S5 


370 


388 


407 


426 


444 


463 


481 


500 


518 


537 


555 


574 


148 


60 


404 


424 


444 


464 


484 


505 


525 


545 


565 


585 


606 


626 


161 


65 


437 


459 


481 


503 


525 


547 


5.59 


591 


613 


634 


656 


678 


173 


70 


471 


494 


518 


542 


565 


589 


612 


636 


659 


683 


706 


730 


198 


SO 


538 


565 


592 


619 


646 


673 


700 


727 


753 


781 


808 


835 


223 


90 


606 


636 


666 


696 


727 


757 


787 


817 


848 


878 


909 


939 


248 


100 


673 


706 


740 


774 


807 


S41 


875 


908 ; 942 976 


1010 


1044 



Ribbon Lapper. The ribbon lapper, which is used as an in- 
termediate process, between the sliver lap machine and the comb, 
is, in one sense, a drawing frame, with the exception that the fibers, 
instead of being drawn in the form of a sliver, are spread out in 
a sheet. 

The laps are placed upon the lap rolls, side by side, at the 
back of the machine, which is built usually to take six. The laps 
are drawn full width between four pairs of draft rolls, having a 
draft of about six. Passing downward around highly polished 
plates and under calender rolls, they are brought together, one 
above another, upon the sliver plate of the machine. This forms 
a lap of six thicknesses, but, as each lap has been subjected to a 
draft of about six, their combined weight is the same as was that 
of each lap at the back of the machine. The laps are drawn 
along the sliver plate by the calender rolls and then pass between 
two pairs of heavily weighted calender rolls, \yhich consolidate the 
six laps into one sheet. This sheet now passes forward and is 
wound upon a WQoden spool by contact with two lap rolls into a 
lap ready for combing. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



IB3 



The device for winding the lap is exactly the same in detail 
as that nsed on the sliver lap machine. 

The laps, put in at the back of tlie ribbon iapper, are usually 
made about one inch less in width than those required for the 
comb, as they spread some when passing through the draft rolls. 

The ribbon lapper is provided with two stop-motions, one 
which stops the machine immediately if a lap runs out at the back 
and one, called a full lap stop-motion, whicli regulates the length 
of the laps, so that they will all be wound to the same diameter. 

Fig. Ill shows a diagram of the gearing of tlie ribbon lap- 
per. The driving pulleys are 16 inclies in diameter by 3 inches 



40 LAP ROLL 




21 5^ SO 

Fig. 111. Diagram of Gearing of Ribbon Lapper. 



face and make three revolutions to one of the five inch calender 
roll. The usual speed for the driving pulleys is from 250 to 300 
R. P. M. 

The draft of the ribbon lapper is principally between the 
back and front rolls, but in addition, there is also a slight draft be- 
tween the front roll and the calender rolls wliich is necessary to 
draw the sliver along the sliver plate. 

The draft change gear is from 47 to 52 teeth whicli gives 
a range in draft of 5.63 to 6.23. This is figured between the 
back roll, which is 1^ inches in diameter, and the five inch calender 
roll and can be found in the usual manner. 



134 



COTTON SPINNING. 



The ribbon lapper occupies a floor space of 14' 2" lengtli by 
4' 7" width and is built both right and left hand. 

. For the production of the ribbon lapper, use the production 
table for the sliver lap machine, as the calender rolls for both 
machines are the same diameter. 




Comb. After the laps have been formed on the sliver lap 
machine, or tlie ribbon lapper, they are taken to the comb upon 
■which the actual operation of combing is carried on. The comb 
is divided into either six or eight heads, or sections, a six-headed 
comb being most generally used. 



174 



COTTON SPINNING. 135 

Each head is exactly like the others so that a description of 
the movements of one answers for all and it should be understood 
that, although the functions of one part depf^nd closely upon those 
of another, each movement will be considered a separate action. 

Fig. 112 is a section through a comb, showing enough of the 
principal parts to enable its workings to be explained. 

The lap is placed upon the fluted lap rolls, A and A, by 
which it is slowly unwound. The cotton passes down a smooth 
plate, B, and is drawn between the feed rolls, C and C. The move- 
ment of these rolls is intermittent and is governed by the length 
of the staple of cotton being worked and tlie' draft of the machine. 

From the feed rolls, the lap passes down between the cushion 
plate, D, and the nipper, E^, which are at this particular instant 
apart, to allow it to pass through. 

Wiien the length has been delivered by the feed rolls, their 
movements cease and the nipper is brought into contact with the 
cushion plate and the cotton, which is between them, is held 
firmly. 

Just beneath the cushion plate is the cylinder shaft, N, upon 
which are the cylinders, one for each section. The cylinders are 
made up of two parts, the fluted segment, O, and the half lap, P, 
which are separated by a portion which is smaller in diameter. 

The surface of the fluted segment is similar to a feed roll 
while the half lap is composed of a series of rows of needles each 
row finer than the preceding one. The rotary motion of the cyl- 
inders, unlike that of the feed rolls, is continuous and, as they re- 
volve, the needles pass through that portion of the lap which 
projects downward from between the nipper and the cushion plate 
and removes the short fibers and neps. 

Front of the nippers are the detaching rolls, E, F and G. 
E is a steel fluted roll which is driven from one end of the comb. 
F is a brass fluted top roll, driven by contact with E, and G is a 
leather covered roll heavily weighted also driven by contact with 
E. 

All of these rolls have a rotary motion both backwards and 
forwards, while F and G have in addition a slight movement, cir- 
ciimferentially, about E. The functions of these three rolls, in 
connection with the fluted segment, are to detacli the fibers, which 



175 



136 



COTTON SPINNING. 



have just been combed, from the mass held between the cushion 
plate and nipper and to attacli them to those which were combed, 
previously, so as to make a continuous sliver. 

After the needles have passed through the cotton, the rolls, 
E, F and G, turn backwards a portion of a revolution so that the 
cotton, which is between them, will be iu a position to be attached, 
or "pieced up." Meanwhile, the partial revolution of the cyl- 
inder has brought the front edge of the fluted segment around 




Fig. 113. Elevation of Feed Roll Gearing. 

against the combed fibers which are hanging from between the 
cushion plate and nipper and as it continues to turn, they are 
made to lie upon its surface. 

At this poirit, the detaching rolls, which have ceased their 
backward movement, now turn forward and the leather roll, G, 
which during its backward movement was clear of the cylinder, 
is moved circumferentially about the steel roll, E, until it comes 
in contact with the fluted segment. When these suifaces touch, 
the fibers are carried forward and are overlapped on the end of 



COTTON SPINNING. 137 

those aliead and, as the forward movement of these rolls is consid- 
erably more than the backward, the fibers are drawn steadily 
onward. 

At the same time tliat the rolls commence to turn forward, 
the top comb, H^, descends into the path of the cotton and the end 
of the fibers that were between the cushion plate and the nipper 
also receive a combing. 

P^rom the detaching rolls, the sliver is drawn forward through 
the trumpet, L, by the calender rolls, M and M""-, and along 
the table with the other slivers where they pass through a draw 
box tliat usually has a draft of five. From here, they pass, as 
one sliver, through the coiler into a roving can. 

The short fibers and neps are removed from the cylinder teeth 
by a revolving brush, Q, which is placed beneath the cylinder. 
The surface speed of the brush is slightly greater than that of the 
cylinder and, as the bristles extend about one-eighth of an inch 
below the points of the needles, these are tlioroughly cleaned. 

The fibers are removed from the brirsh by a slowly revolving 
doffer, R, which is covered with very coarse card clothing, and 
they are removed from the doffer in a tliiu fieece, by an ordinary 
doffer comb, S, the cotton falling into a box below. Sometimes, 
the comb is provided with a roll for winding the waste into a lap 
as is done by the stripping roll on a I'cvolving flat card. 

Ou each side of the cylinder and hi ush are covers, S' and 
T^, which prevent the fly from escaping. The brush is adjust- 
able as the continual wear shortens the bristles very rapidly. The 
doffer and doffer comb are adjustable wilh respect to the brush. 

Feed notion. First in order, in consideiing the movements 
of tlie comb in detail, comes the feed motion. The feed rolls are 
driven from tlie main driving shaft of the comb and, as their 
motion is intermittent while that of the driving shaft is continu- 
. ous, a device called a pin and starwheel is. used which is shown in 
elevation in Fig. 113 and in section in Fig. 114. The cylinder 
shaft, N, is driven from the driving shaft, Ai, by the pinion, Ci-i 
and the gear, D. Around the hub of the gear is an adjustable 
plate, E-, which carries the pin, F^. Upon one end of the stud, 
G^, is the five-toothed starwheel, IP, and upon the other, the draft 
change gear, D'-^, which ranges from fourteen to twenty teeth. 



177 



138 



COTTON SPINNING. 



Rilnning with the draft gear is aaother gear, J^, of thirty- 
eight teeth. This is keyed to the end of the bottom feed roll, C, 
any movetnent given to the starwheel would thus be communi- 
cated to the feed rolls. 

During a portion of each revolution of the cylinder shaft, the 
pm, F1-, which describes a circle of about five inches in diameter, 
engages one of the teeth of the starwheel, causing it to turn one- 
fifth of a revolution, when it remains stationary until it is advanced 
another tooth by the pin at the next revolution of the cylinder. 



DRAFT change: gear 

1+ TO 20 TEETTH 



rEEO ROLL 



m//////////////////. 




TIMING DIAL 

Fig. 114. Section of Feed Roll Gearing. 

To prevent any movement of the starwlieel, while it is not being 

acted upon, the face of its teetli are made concentric with the 

plate, E^, on the hub of the gear, D, with wliich it is in contact. 

The mo\'ement of tlie feed roll, at each revolution of the 
cylinder shaft, is very sliglit. Tlie largest draft gear (twenty 
teeth) will cause the feed roll, which is three-fourths of an inch in 
diameter, to deliver only about one-quarter of an inch of cotton. 

The lap rolls, upon which the lap rests, are also given an 
intermittent motion, corresponding to that of the feed rolls, and 
are driven at one end of the comb from the bottom feed roll. 

Timing Dial. All of the' various parts of the comb are 
timed to operate in regular order and, as each part is dependent 



178 



COTTON" SPINNING. 



139 



upon the others, any great variation from the proper timing- will 
cause bad work and is liable to injure the combs and needles. 

The parts are set by the index, or timing dial, which is on 
the head end of the cylinder shaft and is sliown in the section of 
the feed roll gearing and in the diagram' of the nipper cam, Fig. 
120. 




Figures 115 and 116. Nipper Cam and Levers. 

The dial is divided into twenty parts, numbered 1 to 20, 
each part being subdivided into quarters. Above the dial is an 
index finger, fastened to the comb frame. In setting, the driving 
shaft is turned b}^ hand until the index finger points to the proper 
figure. The feed rolls are usually timed to commence turning 
at 41. 



140 



COTTON SPINNING. 



Nipper and Cushion Plate. Fig. 115 sliows the cam and 
levers for operiiting tlio nipper and cusliion plate and Fig. 116 
shows the parts detaelied IVoni the cam. 

The cushion plate, D, is genei-ally of steel with a dull- 
pointed edge and the nipper knife, Ei, also of steel, is recessed to 
receive a cushion of leather or rubber. This cushion prevents 
the fibers from becoming cut, or otherwise injured, when the cot- 
ton is gripped between the 
cushion j)late and nipper. ' 

Both the cushion plate 
and the nipper are carried by 
a cradle, F", which has a 
• slight r o c k i n g movement 
around its fulcrum, Z. The 
nipper arm, N^, is also lumg 
upon a fulcrum on the cradle 
at V. In the upriglit cradle 
arm, P^, is the nijjper set- 
ting screw, Pi, which bears 
against a stojD, formed by 
the frame of the machine. 
The cradle is held in its nor- 
mal pioiition, which is with 
the screw bearing against the 
Fig. 117. Section showing Nipper and Stop, by a strong spring, L3, 
Cusliion Plate. one end of which is fastened 

to a horn on the cradle, the other to the frame of the comb. 

The connection to the nipper cam, T, by which the nipper 
and cushion plate are caused to open and close, is by means of tiie 
upright rod, L^, tlie liorizontal nipper shaft level', J^, and the 
nipper cam lever, J^. The last named cariies a roll, -T', that rans 
in a groove, T'^, in the face of the nipper cam. 

The nipper cam lever, J^, is made in two j)arts whicji eiiables 
a very fine adjustment to be made by means of the screws, T* and 
T^. The part carrying the screws is keyed to the nipper shaft, 
J. This shaft runs the whole length of the machine, and to it 
are also keyed the horizontal nipper shaft levers, J', which con- 
nect with tlie back end of the nipper arms, N^, by the uju'ight 




COTTON SPINNING. 



141 



rods, L^. The nipper cam makes one revolution to one of tlie 
cylinder and, at each I'evolutioii, the opening and closing of 
the nipper and cushion plate takes place which corresponds to tlie 
movements of the cylinder. 

To follow these movements, Figs. 117, 118, 119 and 120 
have been made. Figs. 117 to 119 aie sections showing the dif- 
ferent positions of the nipper and cusliion plate in delation to the 




P 

Fig. lis. Fig. 119. 

Sections showing Nipper and Cushion Plate. 

fluted segment and half lap. Fig. 120 is a diagram of the nipper 
cam showing certain points wliich correspond to the figures on 
tiie timing dial. 

In Fig. 117, it is assumed that tlie needles liave finished 
combing and the nipper and cushion plate are open to allow tlie 
fibers to be drawn forward by the fluted segment. The opening 
movement commences at about 3J by the timing dial. The front 
edge of the fluted segment comes against the fibers and is about 
half by when the nipper and cushion plate are wide open which is 
at 61. 

By referring to the diagram of tlie nipper cam (Fig. 120), it 
will be seen that the point niarlced 0.1 is just at the cam roll and 
tlie index finger points midway between (J and 7 on the dial. As 



181 



142 



COTTON SPINNING. 



the cam continues to tarn, the nipper cam lever, JS, is depressed 
owing to the shape of the groove in Avhich the cam roll, T*, runs. 
This depression causes the nipper shaft, J, to- turn slightly and an 
upward movement of the rod, Li, takes place through the nipper 
shaft lever, J^. 

The upward movement of the rod, L^, causes the nipper 
arm, N^, to turn about its fulcrum at V which brings the nipper 




Fig. 120. Diagram of Nipper Cam. 

knife into contact with the cushion plate, gripping the cotton 
firmly. This takes place when the dial is at 9J and the parts are 
in the position shown in Fig. 118. 

The back edge of the fluted segment has passed by tlie front 
of the cushion plate and this biings that portion of the cylinder, 
which is smaller in diameter than the segment and half lap, just 
beneath the cushion plate and nipper and permits the end of the 
lap, which is held suspended between them, to assume a position 
so that the needles of the half lap may thoroughly comb the mass 
of cotton. 



COTTON SPINNING. 



143 



We have seen in Figs. 117 and 118, that the movement of 
the nipper arm, 'N'^, is simply around its fulcrum, V, but, as the 
nipper cam continues to revolve, the nipper cam lever is moved 
away from the center of the cam, causing a still gieater depression 
of the nipper knife. It is evident that it must bear with consid- 
erable more force against the cushion plate. This pressure 
causes the spring, L3,to yield and the cradle to move slightly 
around its fulcrum, Z, as shown by the position of the parts in 
Fig. 119. 




Fig. 121. Fig. 122. 

Sections showing Detaching Eolls and Cylinder. 

This double motion of the nipper knife, first around its own 
fulcrum and then around the fulcrum of the cradle, brings the 
cotton down near the needles just previous to the commencement 
of the combing action. This occurs when the timing dial is at 
about. 12, the parts remaining in the position until all of the 
needles have passed through this cotton which is at about 20. 
The nipper and cushion plate then commence to raise, from the 
cylinder, into a position so that the cotton may be detached and 
they then open and the cycle of movements is repeated. 

Detaching Roll flotion. Following in regular order, the next 
feature, and one which requires considerable explanation, is the 
detaching roll motion, by which the fibers are detached from be- 



144 



COTTON SPINNING. 



tween the nipper and ciisliion plate and attached to those fibers 
that have already been combed at a previous operation, as referred 
to in the general description of the comb. 

It will be less confusing to first follow the movements of the 
detaching rolls and then the mechanism for obtaining these move- 
ments. Fig. 121 shows the ■ rolls in stationary position with the 
end of the sliver protruding from between the leather covered de- 
taching roll, G, and the steel detaching roll, E, in the position it 
was left when the rolls ceased their forward rotary motion. The 




Pig. 123. Fig. 124. 

Sections showing Detaching Rolls and Cylinder. 

leather covered roll is raised to its highest position above the 
path of the fluted segment, O. 

The first movement of the detaching rolls is to turn back- 
wards to the position shown by the parts in Fig. 122. This move- 
ment occurs just after the needles have finished combing, and is 
sufficient to turn the sliver, which is shown hanging downwards in 
the space between the fluted segment and half lap, back about one 
and one-half inches. The front edge of the fluted segment is just 
coming into contact with the fibers which are hanging from be- 
tween the nipper, E^, and the cushion plate, D, and the leather 
detaching roll has started to move around the steel roll in the 
direction of the nipper. 

Fig. 12-3 shows the rolls at the commencement of the forward 



COTTON SPINTSriNG. 145 

movement. The fluted segment has continued to revolve and its 
front edge lias swept along under the down hanging fibers which 
are to be detached. ■ This action causes them to lie on the surface 
of the fluted segment and extended in the direction of the leather 
covered roll which has moved jiround tlie steel roll into contact 
with the fluted segment. Tiie instant that these surfaced touch, 
the detaching rolls commence to turn forward and the fibers, lying 
on the surface of the fluted segment, are drawn forward between 
it and the leather covered roll. 

-The finish of the forward movement of tlie rolls is shown in 
Fig. 124. The fiont end of the fibers, between the fluted segment 
and the leatlier covered roll, are over-lapped on the top of those 
that were turned backward. The continued forward movement, 
which is about two and one-lialf inches, draws them upward be- 
tween the rolls, G and E, and F and E, until their back end is in 
the same position as shown in Fig. 121. The pressure of the 
leather covered roll on the steel roll incorporates the newly combed 
fibers with those that were turned back. 

The roll, G, moves around the roll, E, so that its surface is 
raised fiom contact with the fluted segment. The rolls all cease 
their forward movement and remain stationary, until "the next revo- 
lution of the cylinder, when the operation of detaching, and piecing- 
up is repeated. The approximate gain in the distance the sliver 
is moved forward is one inch. 

It would seem on closely studying Figs. 123 and 124 that the 
end of the sliver, wliich was turned back for piecing-up, would be 
rolled up between the roll, E, and the fluted segment, 0, particu- 
larly as these surfaces turn in opposite directions, while O is 
passing E, but this cannot happen as there is a space of about 
one-sixteenth of an inch between them and tlie sliver simplj^ 
touches lightly against the surface of O, as it is drawn upward 
between E and G. 

Top Comb. At this point, reference should be made to the 
movements of the top comb, H^, which are connected closely with 
the movements of the detaching rolls. When the fibers are being 
combed by the needles, it is evident that the end, held between 
the nipper and cushion plate, can receive, no combing but as they 
are liberated by the opening of the nipper and are carried forward 



146 



COTTON" SPIXNING. 



for pieci-ng-up, the top comb, H^, descends into the path of the 
cotton and it receives combing by being drawn through the teeth 
as shown by the position of the comb in Fig. 123. It is then 
quickly withdrawn and remains up, clear of the fibers, xmtil the 
movements of the detaching rolls are repeated. 




Fig. 125. Elevation SLiowing Detacliiug Roll Cams. 

Detaching Roll Cams. To obtain the various movements of 
the detaching rolls, three cams are employed ; those which impart 
rotary motion to all of the rolls are shown in Figs. 125 to 130 in- 
clusive and the lifting cam which causes the rolls, F and G, to move 
around E is shown in Fig. 181. 

Reference should be made first to Figs. 125 and 126 which 
show respectively the extreme forward and backward positions of 



COTTON SPINNING. 



147 



tlie detaching roll cam lever. On the cam shaft, W, is keyed a 
cam, Bi, in one side of which is a groove, B^. In this groove 
runs a roll, T^, which is carried by the detaching roll cam lever, 
S^, the shaft, M^, acting as a center around which, S2,is free to 
turn. Upon this same shaft are fastened a wheel, U, having 




Fig. 126. Elevation Showing Detaching Eoll Cams. 

twenty teeth, or notches, and an internal gear, C^, of 138 teeth. 
A pawl, Qi, which is fastened to a stud, K2, and which is carried 
by the upper end of the detaching roll cam lever, engages in the 
notches of the notched Avheel and is held in contact with them by 
a spring, F^, while the internal gear is in contact with the pinion, 
L2, of eighteen teeth, which is fast on one end of the detaching 
roll, E. 



148 



COTTON SPINNING. 



As the cam revolves, the shape of the groove in it is such as 
to cause the pawl to move back and forth. The sides of the 
notches are square which permits the pawl to engage with them in 
either direction. This motion is communicated to the roll, E, by 
the notched wheel, tlie internal gear and the pinion causing it to 
rotate forward and backward. 

By examining the drawings, it will be seen that on the side 
opposite from the groove in the cam, Bi, is another cam, A2, on 




Fig. 127. Fig. 128. 

Diagrams of Detaching Roll Cams. ■ 

the periphery of which runs a roll, X, which is fastened to the lower 
end of the arm, Y. The other end of the arm is fastened to tlie 
same stud as the pawl, 0^. This cam simply acts on the pawl, 
moving it in and out of contact with the notched wheel at the 
proper time. 

The next four drawings Figures, 127, 128, 129 and 130, show 
the positions at different stages. All the parts, not absolutely 
essential to explain these movements, are omitted. Fig. 127 
shows the position of the cams after the detaching rolls have fin- 
ished turning forward. The cam roll, T^, is on the largest diame- 
ter of the cam whicli is indicated by the letter, A. The nose of 
the cam, A^, lias jr.st come into contact with the roll, X, which 



COTTON SPINNING. 



149 



has lifted the jjawl, O"^, out of the notch iu the notched wheel, 
marked by the numeral, II. 

Fig. 128 shows the cams as having made about one-half of 
a revolution. This movement has advanced the cam roll from A 
to B and has caused the pawl to move fjom above notch II to III 
while the gradually decreasing diameter of the cam, A 2, has caused 
the cam roll, X, to drop and allow the spring, F^, to draw the 
pawl into notch III. But it will be noticed that as yet no move- 
ments of the detaching rolls has taken place. 





Fig. 129. ¥\g. 130. 

Diagrams of Detaching Eoll Cams. 

In Fig. 129, the cams are shown as having completed about 
three-quarters of a revolution. The cam roll, T^, is on the smallest 
diameter of the groove at C. The pawl, which is shown just en- 
tering notch III in Fig. 128, has engaged the whole depth of it 
and the continued revolution of the cams has turned the notched 
wheel to its extreme backward position, as indicated by the arrow. 
This movement through the internal gear, C^, and the pinion, L'^, 
rotates the steel detaching roll, E, and turns back about one and 
one-half inches of sliver. The distance moved by the internal gear 
is shown by the relativ e positions of a dark spot marked upon the 
gears in Figs. 127, 128 and 129. 



150 



COTTOX SPINNING. 



The completion of the revolution of the cams is shown in 
Fig. 130. The cam roll has moved from C back to A and the 
nose of the cam, A^, has come into contact with the cam roll, X. 
This action lifts the pawl out of notch III, the parts remaining in 
the same relative positions as in Fig. 127, except that the notched 
wheel has advanced one notch, and at the next revolution of the 




,^^^5^^555? ^55^J?^^5^^^^?^5?^^ 



Fig. 131. Elevation showing Lifting Cam. 

cam, the pawl will drop into notch IV. The point, marked by the 
dark spot, has advanced in the same proportion as the notched 
wheel, as will be seen by its position above the pinion. 

The detaching rolls turn backwards at about 1^ by the tim- 
ing dial and continue until about 6. The forward .movement then 
commences and continues until about 11. 

Fig. 131 shows the device for moving the leather covered de- 
taching roll in and out of contact with the fluted seement. 



COTTON SPINNING. 151 

Ou the cam shaft, W, is fastened the lifting cam, H^, with a 
groove, A3, cut in its face. In tliis groove runs a roll, C^, which 
is carried in one end of the lifting cam lever which is made in two 
parts, E^ and E*. The part, E^, which carries the cam roll, is in 
reality loose on the lifting shaft, K, while the part, E*,-is kej'ed 
to K. The two parts are connected by the adjusting screws, D^ 
andD*, which are screwed through lugs on E* and bear against 
the sides of E^. This permits a very close adjustment to be made 
Avhen settmg the parts. The lifting shaft, K, extends the whole 
length of the comb and upon it are fastened the lifting shaft arms, 
Ki, which are connected to the top lifting lever, F*, by the up- 
right arms, N^. 

On the back end of F* is a block, B^, which bears against 
the bushing, K^, on the end of the roll, G. These bushings are 
made square on the outside so as to give ample wearing surface 
against the blocks. A set screw, G^, in the end of F*, bears 
against the block which allows for adjustment. A weight, not 
shown in the drawing but connected to the stirrup, N^, by a 
chain, holds the bushing firmly against the block. It also 
keeps the roll, G, in contact with the steel roll, E, and the fluted 
segment. 

The drawing shows the position of the cam and parts with 
the roll, G, in contact with the fluted segment, the outlines of 
which are shown by dotted lines. As the cam revolves, the 
groove in its face causes the roll, C, to move from the position it 
is in towards the center of the cam to a point marked B, as shown 
by dotted lines.- This movement causes the roll, G, to move 
around the roll, E, out of contact with the fluted segment. The 
cam roll continues on the small diameter of the groove until it is 
moved out at the next revolution. 

Top Comb notion. Fig. 132 shows the eccentric for opeia- 
ting the top combs. These combs, H^, are carried by the comb 
arms, M^, which are centered on the top comb shaft, N^, at one 
end of which is an arm, W^, which carries a roll, S^. This roll 
runs on an eccentric, 0^, which is fastened on the cylinder shaft, 
N. At each of the comb arms is a dog, N*, which is fastened to 
the top comb shaft and through a lug on the dog is a set screw, 
W2, Avhich bears against the comb arms, Tlie arms are thus 



191 



152 



COTTON SPINNING. 



free to be turned up out of the way for cleaning- or repairing the 
needles. As the eccentric turns, the top comb shaft is turned 
slightly and the coinbs put in and out of contact with the cotton. 
Timing and Setting. The successful working of 'the comb 
depends almost wholly upon the timing and setting of the Tarious 
parts so that one movement will follow another at the j^roper time. 
These can be vaiied, slightly, according to the length and quality 




Fig'. 132. Top Comb Eccentric. 

of the cotton being used and the judgment of the one in charge of 
such work. The following are average timings and settings : 

To set the cylinder: Turn the cylinder shaft around until 
number 5 on the timing dial comes beneath the index finger, then 
set the front edge of the fluted segment from the flutes of the 
steel detaching roll with li-inch gauge and tighten the cylinders 
on the shaft. 

To set the feed roll: Use li|-inch gauge between the flutes 
of the steel detaching roll and flutes of the feed roll, then tighten 
feed roll' slides into place. 

To set tlie cushion plates to the nipper knives : Put the cushion 
plate in place and set it up against the nipper knife with one 



COTTON SPINNING. 153 

thickness of ordinary writing paper between it at each end. Press 
the nipper firml}^ against the cushion plate and see that each piece 
of .paper is lield securely. This sets the cushion plate parallelly 
with the nipjjer knife. 

To set the cushion plates from the steel detaching roll : Use 
l-|-incli gauge between the lip of the plate and the flutes of the 
detaching roll. 

To set the nipper knives from the fluted segments : First dis- 
connect the upright rods, L^, and use number 20 gauge between 
the edge of nipper knife and segment. The nipper stop screw, Pi, 
must project through the arm about one-quarter of an inch and a 
|-inch gauge must be placed between the point of the screw and 
the nipper stand. After setting the right-hand screw, remove the 
gauge and bring the left-hand screw up against the nipper stand. 
Next put a strip of writing paper between the point of each screw 
and stand and see that it draws with the same tension from each. 
The cylinder shaft should now be turned around until number 11 
on the dial is under the pointer; the cam roll will then be on the 
largest diameter of the nipper cam. Put on the right-hand con- 
necting rod and spring, try | inch gauge between the nipper 
screw and stand, and adjust the nuts on the upright rod until the 
gauge will draw out with ease. After this, put on the left-hand rod 
and spring and have the gauge draw out with the same tension. 
Turn the cam back to the first position and try number 20 gauge, 
between the nipper knife and the lialf-lap, and see that everything 
is free. 

To set the leather detaching rolls: Turn the .cylinder shaft 
around until the dial is at 6|, then put the rolls in position with 
the end bushings on and attach weights. Let the rolls rest against 
the fluted segment. Use number 23 gauge between the lifter 
block and bushing of roll. Set the riglit-hand side of one roll 
first; then tuiir the detaching roll cam around so as to bring the 
block up against the gauge. Next try tlie gauge between all of 
the other blocks and bushings and set the blocks up so that the 
gauge will draw from eacli with the same tension and tighten 
blocks in place. Put a strip of writing paper between the fluted 
segment and the leather detaching rolls at each end and adjust 
the cam lever so that the rolls will touch the segments at 6?. 



154 COTTOX SPINNING. 

To time the nippers : Turn the cylinder shaft around until 
gi comes under the pointer. Loosen the nipper cam and turn it 
around until the nipper stop screws leave the stands at 9^ then 
make nipper cam fast on the shaft. 

To Set the top covibs to the leather detaching rolls : Remove 
the end bushings from the leather roll and put J,- inch gauge 
between it and the steel roll and have it touch, lightly, against 
the top comb, which should be inclined about thirty degrees, then 
remove the gauge from between the rolls and see that the leather 
roll is.^free from the comb. 

To set the top combs to the fluted segments : Use number 20 
gauge between the points of the comb needles and the segment. 
Set the comb by the stop screws with a strip of paper under each 
which should draw out with the same tension. Loosen the top 
comb eccentric and turn it around until the throw is downward 
and wedge the eccentric arm in place. Turn all the stop screws 
against the top comb arms and set each witli a strip of paper. 
After setting all the combs, turn the shaft around to number 5 on 
the dial and set the top comb eccentric so that a strip of ])aper 
will not draw from between the nipper stop screw and stand. 

To time the feed rolls : Turn the cylinder shaft around until 
the dial shows 41 under the pointer, then set the pin so that the 
feed rolls will start forward. 

To time the detaching rolls : Turn the cylinder shaft around 
until the dial is at 6, then set the detaching roll cam so that the 
rolls will start to turn -forward. The brass top rolls should be 
set from the leather rolls with number 21 gauge and their flutes 
should be in mesh with the flutes of the steel roll. 

Owing to the naturally irregular disposition of cotton hbers, 
it is impossible to remove the waste without removing more or 
less long fibers, nor can the percentage of waste be known until 
after the cotton has been combed, as some varieties are much cleaner 
than others and contain fewer short fibers. The amount of waste 
is often increased by the faulty timing and setting of the parts. 

There are various ways of controlling the amount of waste. 
In the top comb, the dropping varies from 4^ to 6J. If dropped 
at 4J, more waste is combed out, as the comb needles enter the 
lap before it is drawn forward by the detaching rolls, while if 



COTTOX SPINNING. 



dropped at 6^^, they do not enter the lap until after it has started, 
consequently some of the fibers escape combing. 

The angle of the top comb and its distance from the fluted 
segment also control the amount of waste. The comb needles, 
which act as hooks upon which the fibers are caught, enter the 
lap at about right angles to the direction that it- is drawn. Now. 
it is evident, that the more acute tliis angle the greater is the 
retaining power, so that more waste will be removed. The nearer 
the needles are allowed to approach the fluted segment, the more 
they penetrate the mass of cotton, thus giving it a more tliorough 
combing. 

The time of starting the feed rolls varies from 4 to 6 ; if 
started at 6 more waste will be made than if started at 4, as the 
later the feed rolls start, the more the lap is liable to curl and not 
pass freely between the nipper and cushion plate. Curling causes 
the lap to bunch in places and when these bunches are acted upon 
by the cylinder needles, more of the long fibers are combed out 
than would be the case if the lap were perfectly smooth and even. 

The closing of tlie nippeis takes place from 9 to 10. If closed 
at 10 more waste is made than at 9. The reason for this is very 
apparent. If the nipper does not close until the comb needles 
have commenced to work, the cotton will draw from between the 
nipper and cushion plate. This late closing, as it is called, should 
be avoided, as many of the long fibers will be combed out with the 
waste which would otherwise be carried forward with the sliver. 

The leather detaching roll is brought into contact with the 
fluted segment at 6|. If brought into contact before 6f more 
waste is made. 

The length of time the leather detachhig roll is allowed to 
remain in contact with tlie fluted segment also controls the waste. 
A' number 25 gauge, used between the lifter blocks and the 
bushings of the leather roll, will give more waste than a number 
21 gauge, as it is thinner and allows the leather roll to remain in 
contact with the fluted segment longer. 

The leather detaching roll starts to turn forward at 6i. If 
started before this, more waste is made than if started after, as 
the forward rotary movement of the roll together with the rotary 
movement of the fluted segment detaches the cotton from between 



166 



COTTON SPINNING. 




COTTON SPINNING. 157 

the nipper and cushion plate, and, if this movement commences 
before the nipper is opened sufficiently to allow the cotton to be 
dra^vn forward, the fibers are broken. 

Gearing. In order to work out the various calculations, a 
diagram of the comber gearing is given in Fig. 133. The usual 
speed of the driving pulleys, which are twelve inches in diameter bv 
three inches face, is about 300 revolutions per minute. On the outer 
end of the driving shaft is a heavy balance wheel, which serves a 
double purpose, namely, to enable the cylinder shaft to be turned 
readily when setting the various parts and to prevent any fluctua- 
tions in the speed of the comb, as the cylinder shaft turns much 
harder while the needles are passing through the cotton than at 
any other time. Were it not for this balance wheel, the comb 
would run with considerable vibration, which tends to loosen the 
screws and bolts, as well as to disturb the settings. 

On the inside end of the driving shaft is a gear of 21 teeth, 
in gear with one of 80 teeth which is fastened to the cylinder 
shaft. The sp§ed of the cylinders is therefore about 78 revolutions 
or nips per minute. 

The feed roll, which is -I of an inch in diameter, is driven 
from the cylinder shaft by a pin and a star-wheel having 5 teeth. 
On the same stud as the star-wheel is the draft or change gear, D, 
of from 14 to 20 teeth, by which the feed is regulated. 

The calender rolls in front of the cylinders are driven fi'om 
the cylinder shaft by a gear of 80 teeth which drives a similar 
gear of the same number of teeth. On the sliaft with the latter is 
another gear of 19 teeth, which drives one of 142 teeth, which is 
upon the calender roll shaft. 

The draft rolls are driven from the foot end of the cylinder 
shaft by a gear of 25 teeth, which drives another of 25 teeth. 
On this same sliaft are two gears, one of 16 teeth, which drives 
the back roll through an intermediate of 64 teeth and one of 46 
teeth which is upon the back I'oll. 

The front roll is driven from the gear of 50 teeth, through 
the double intermediate of 45 teeth and the gear of 37 teeth. 
The calender roll in front of the draft rolls is driven from the other 
end of the front roll by the gears of 20, 80 and 43 teeth. The mid- 
dle roll is driven from the back roU h^ thegears of 29,30 and 25 teeth. 



197 



158 COTTON SPINNING. 

The coiler is also driven from the cylinder shaft, through the 
gears of 53, 90, 21 and 16 teeth, the last being upon the upright 
shaft in the coiler. At the top of this shaft is a gear of 24 teeth, 
driving an 18 toothed gear v^hich is upon the calender roll. 

The lap rolls are driven from the feed roll by the gears of 23, 
22, 20, 55, 35 and 17 teeth. The first and last mentioned are 
upon the feed roll and lap roll respectively, and, as the motion of 
the feed roll is intermittent, the lap I'oUs receiye a corresponding 
movement. 

The doffer is driven by a single worm and worm gear of 32 
teeth and a bevel gear of 25 teeth, from the same gear which drives 
the draft rolls. The brush and the doffer comb are driven from 
the driving shaft, the brush by the gears of 28, 35 and 30 teeth 
and the comb by a connecting rod, one end of which is fastened to 
an arm on the cam shaft and the other working on a pin set eccen- 
trically in the 28 toothed gear on the driving shaft. By this 
means, the comb is given an oscillating motion. 

Calculations. The production of the comb is governed by 
the weight of the laps per yard, the number of revolutions that 
the cylinder makes per niinute, the draft of the comb and the 
amount of waste. A glance at the diagram of the gearing will 
show that the calender rolls in tbe coiler are the last through 
which the sliver passes, and the length delivered by them at each 
revolution of the cylinder should be taken into account in figuring 
the production. These rolls are iJ-i inches in diameter and make 
1.03 revolutions to one of the cylinder, which gives a delivery of 
5.3 inches for each revolution. 

Following are the principal calculations for the comb. 
-Rule 1. To find the production of the comb in jDOunds : 
Multiply together the number of revolution of the cylinder per 
minute (80), tlie number of inches of sliver delivered at each 
revolution (5.3), the weight in grains of one yard of lap, less the 
percentage of waste (212.5), the number of laps (6) and the 
number of minutes run per day, less 10 per cent for time lost in 
cleaning (540). Divide the product by 7,000 (the number of 
grains in one pound), multiphed by 36 (the number of inches in 
a yard) and by the draft of the comb (24.47). 

„ , 80X5.3X212.5X6X540 ,^^, 

^"""P'^= 7000X36X24.47 = ''-^^ 



COTTON SPINNING. 159 

111 this example, the weiglit of the laps is given as 212.5 
grains, or 250 grains less 1 5 per cent for waste which is a fair 
average. 

Rule 2. To find the draft of the comb between the calender 
rolls in the coiler and the feed rolls : Multiply together the driv- 
ing geai's and the diameter of the coiler calender rolls and divide 
the product by the product of the driven gears multiplied together 
with the diameter of the feed roll. (The driving gears a're C, E, 
G, I and K, and the driven gears are D, draft gear 18 teeth, F, H, 
J and L.) To avoid fractions, the diameter of the feed roll, which 
is |- of an inch can be called 12 as there are i| in | of an inch 

"and the diameter of the coiler calender rolls, which is 111 inches, 

' 1 fa ' 

can be called 27. 

^ - 38 X 5x53 X 21 X 24 X 27 _. .„ 

Jlixample • ^tt; = kt^ r-^ tt: :r^ = 24.4 ( 

^ 18x 1 X 90x 16 X 18x 12 

Rule 8. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in rule 2 but 

omit the draft change gear D. 

T. 1 38 X 5 X 53 X 21 X 24 X 27 

Example: — — — C: C: — ^ _ 440 53 

^ 18X1X90X16X12 -^-i^-oa 

Rule 4. To find the draft : Divide the factor bv the number 
of teeth in the draft gear (1 8). 

Example: 440.53-4-18 = 24.47. 




&p 



COTTON SPINNING 

PART IV 



DRAWING 

In all the processes previously described, except when como- 
ing was iutrodiiced before drawing, the principal object has been 
to free the cotton from as much foreign substance as possible, and 
no attempt has been made to form a thread. When the sliver 
leaves the card, the fibers are in a very irregular and confused 
mass and it is evident that the fibers must be straightened and 
parallelized to reduce the sliver to a thread. 

The object of the drawing process is threefold: To make the 
fibers lie in parallel order, to make the sliver as even in weight as 
possible by doubling a certain number at the back of the machine, 
and to reduce the weight of the sliver, if necessary, by a certain 
amount of draft. 

Drawing is carried out on two distinct types of machine, the 
Railway Head and the Drawing Frame. 

RAILWAY HEAD 

Originally, tlie railway head was used in connection with the 
stationary flat card as the first drawing process, which was fol- 
lowed by a second and, usually, a third process in which the draw- 
ing frame was used. With the general adoption of the revolving 
flat card the railway head is gradually falling into disuse, but as 
many of the older mills are still equipped with them and as they 
are found, occasionally, in operation in some of the most recently 
constructed mills, it seems fitting that a brief description of the 
operations and arrangement of the -machine and its connection 
with the stationary flat card shall be given. 

Fig. 134 shows in plan two lines of stationary flat cards with 
a railway head at the end of each line. The slivers, from the cal- 
ende" rolls of the cards in each line, are delivered into a railway 
trough or box, and on to an endless belt and are carried to the 
head end of the trough. Here they pass between a pair of rolls 



1G2 



COTTON SPINNING 



and are drawn between guides and passed between the draft rolls 
of tbe railway head into a can which is then taken to the back of 
the drawing frame. 

The railway head is built both single and double. A single 
head, or delivery, is designed to take care of the slivers from six to 



H o 



J . ( 



Fig. 134. Plan of Two Single Lines of Cards. 

twelve cards. In the illustration (Fig. 134) there are eight cards 
in each line, delivering into one single railway head. 

In most cases two single, or one double, railway heads are 
used with a double line of railway troughs, placed as shown in 
Fig. 135. This illustration shows two sections of seven cards in 
each line, delivering into sepa-rate boxes. 

The doffers are driven from the railway head to which they 
are connected by feed shafts, running parallel to the troughs, and 
with the stopping of the railway head, the delivery from the cards 



Hi 



fjij) [ij^ 



Fig. 135. Plan of Two Double Lines of Cards. 



also must cease. This brings about a condition for which the rail- 
way head was primarily designed and which needs considerable 
explanation. 

As the cards require grinding periodically, it is evident that 
one card at a time must- be stopped. This reduces the number of 
ends, or slivers, entering the railway head, and causes a correspond- 
ing reduction in the weight of the sliver delivered. That is, if there 
are eight cards, each delivering a fifty grain sliver, we shall have 
four hundred grains entering the back of the railway head and 



COTTON SPINNING 



1G.S 



with a draft of eight the sliver delivered at the front will weigh 
fifty grains: 

.-^^ = 50 

Now, if we drop out one sliver, we will have three hundred and 




Fig. 136. Section of Railway Head Showing Evener. 

fifty, grains only, entering the railway head and with tlie same 
draft the delivered sliver will weigh 43.75 grains: 
7 X 50 _ 

71 = id.iO 

To overeonie this difficulty, the railway head is provided with an 
svener motion which is shown in Fig. 136. 

Evener Motion. The sliver from the railway troughs passes 
between the draft rolls, D, C, B, and A and' then through the 



164 



COTTON SPINNING 



trumpet, E, and between the calender rolls, F and G. The speed 
of the back roll, D, is constant as a certain relation must be main- 
tained between it and the speed of the card calender rolls, and to 
increase or decrease the weight of the sliver, the speed of the front 
roll must be changed. 

The front roll is driven through a pair of cones, O and P, by 
a belt, S. P is the driver, running at a constant speed, and drives 
the back roll gearing. The speed of O is changed according to the 




^ 




CALENDER ROLL 

Fig. 137. Gearing Connecting Cards T^-ith Kail-way Head, 

position of the cone belt . If the sliver is too heavy, the front roll 
must run faster to increase the draft and reduce the weight, while 
if it is too light, a corresponding decrease in the speed must take 
place. 

The cone belt, S, passes through a guide, T, which is mount- 
ed upon the screw, L. Fast upon one end of the screw is a gear, 
M, while loose upon the same end is a shield, K, and a pair of 
pawls, N and R. The pawls are given a reciprocal motion by the 
eccentric, U, and arm, V, and the shield is connected to the trum- 
pet by the rod, H, and the lever, J. 



204 



COTTON SPINNING 165 

The trumpet is balanced so that when the sliver is at its nor- 
mal size, the shield, K, prevents either pawl from engaging the 
teeth of the gear, M. But should there be a thin place, from an 
end being out or from any cause, the trumpet will fall back im- 
mediately and, through the connections, allow the pawl, N, to en- 
gage the teeth of the gear. This turns the screw and moves the 
cone belt towards the large end of the driven cone, O, making a re- 
duction in the speed of the fron.t roll and a corresponding reduc- 
tion in the draft, which will continue until the light portion of 
sliver has passed through the hole in the trumpet. 

If the sliver is too heavy, the reverse action of the parts de- 
scribed takes place and the speed of the front roll is increased. 

The action of the evener depends wholly upon the friction of 
the sliver in passing through the hole in the trumpet and, while 
no great change takes place in the weight of the cotton entering 
the back of the railway head, unless an end is out, the thick and 
thin places in the sliver keep the trumpet moving back and forth 
continually changing, to a slight extent, the speed of the front roll. 

The defect in the evener motion is very, apparent. As the 
evener is so slow in its movements, a considerable length of sliver 
must be delivered before the speed of the front roll is changed 
enough to rectify the weight. 

Gearing. The gearing, connecting the cards with the railway 
head, is shown in Fig. 137. On the driving shaft. A, is a gear, B, 
of twenty-five teeth, which drives another gear, C, which has forty- 
five teeth, on the feed shaft, D, through two carrier gears of 
twenty-three and thirty-five teeth. On the feed shaft at each card 
is a feed pulley, E, five inches in diameter, which drives the doffer 
pulley, F, 9.8 inches in diameter, by a belt, and on the same stud 
with the doffer pulley is a gear, G, of eighteen teeth, which drives 
the card calender rolls, J, through the calender shaft gear, H, of 
thirty-seven teeth and the doffer gear, K, of one hundred and 
eighty teeth. 

The railway trough drum, L, which is six inches in diameter, 
is driven from the feed shaft by the bevel gears, M, of sixteen 
teeth, and N, of ninety-two teeth, and the back roll of the railway 
head is driven from the driving shaft by the bevel gears 0,P,R 
and S of thirty-seven, thirty, twenty-seven and sixty teeth respec- 



IGG COTrON SPINNING 



tively, shown in tlae detached sketch in the upper left hand corner. 

Between the back roll of the railway head and the i-ailway 
trough drum, there is a slight draft and between this drum and the 
card calender roll, there is also a draft which may be ascertained 
in the usual manner. 

Draft between railway head back roll and railway trough drum : 
9 X 27 X 37 X 45 X 92 _ ' 

60 X 30 X 25 X 16 X 48 ^^ ^^' 

Draft between the railway trough drum and the card calender 
rolls : 

48 X 16 X 9.8 X 37 

92 X 5 X 18 X 31 - ^-^^ 

The revohitions of the railway head driving pulley determine 
the speed of the card doffers and determine the production of the 
card. Thus, when a change in the production of the card is re- 
quired and the weight of the sliver is to remain the same, the 
speed of the driving pulley must be changed. In Fig. 137, the 
driving pulleys are shown as making 35.28 revolutions per minute 
to one of the doffer. 

180 X 9.8 X 45 _ 
18 X 5 X 25 - ^""-"^ 

Fig. 138 shows a diagram of the draft gearing of the railway 
to which reference will be made under the head of calculations. 
DRAWING FRAMES 

Arrangement. When drawing frames are used, they are ar- 
ranged in two and often three processes, or sets, iT.sually placed 
across the mill as shown in plan in Fig. 139 and in elevation in 
Fig. 140. They are built with from two to eight deliveries to a 
head and from one to five heads to a frame. When more than one 
head is used to a process, they are coupled together and all are 
driven from an underneath shaft; thus in Figs. 139 and 140 each 
process consists of one frame of four heads with six deliveries to 
each head, or twenty-four deliveries to each process. On the right 
end of each frame is a pulley, A, which is driven from a similar 
pulley, B, on the main line by a belt, D. The pulley, A, is iipon 
an underneath shaft, F, which exteiids the length of the frame, and 
upon it are the pulleys, C, for driving each individual head. The 
shaft, F, is in, motion all of the time that the main line is running. 



COTTON SPINNING 



167 



motion being transmitted to the tight and loose pulleys of each 
head by the belts, E. By this means the stopping of one head in 
a pi'ocess does not affect the others. 

Sometimes the drawing frames are arranged longitudinally, as 
shown in Fig. 141. They are then coupled with coilers or deliv- 
eries placed alternately as in the drawing, which shows three proc- 



FRONT ROLL l|' DIA. 25 
SECOND ROLL Ig DIA. 




Fig. 138. . Diagram of Railway Head Dralt Gearing. 

esses. The cans from F and IT deliver in the same alley while those 
from G deliver at the back of IT 

When one head is used in a process, it is referred to as a frame 
and the underneath shaft is generally omitted, the frame being 
driven directly from an overhead counter shaft in the same way as 
in Fig. 112. 

The most commonly used arrangement of drawing frames, 
with respect to cards, is the one shown in Fig. 139. 

The principal point to be kept in mind is, that the cans of 
sliver shall be taken in as direct a line as possible, from the card 
coilers to the back of tlie first process of drawing, and that no on- 



168 



COTTON SPINNING 



necessary movements shall be made by the tenders of the drawing 
frame. 

Operation. The actual operation of drawing is very simple 
and consists of passing the slivers between several pairs of rolls, 
each pair running at a greater speed than the preceding one. The 
rolls are set at a certain distance apart, slightly more than the 
length of the cotton fibers, so that two pairs cannot have any direct 
contact with the same fibers at the same time. 

What acttially takes place may be described best by referring 




"axoxn 

Fig. 139. Plan of Card Room Showing Dra\ving Frames. 

to Fig. 143, which shows in section four pairs of drawing frame 
rolls. 

The cotton enters between the back rolls, DD, and is drawn 
between the next pair, CC. JSTow as the speed of CC is slightly 
more than that of DD, it is evident that the fibers, which are under 
the influence of rolls, CC, will be withdrawn from the mass be- 
tween DD, the friction existing among the fibers causing them to 
straighten in being drawn one hy another. This action is still fur- 



COTTON SPINNING 



IGi) 



ther carried out as the sliver is drawn between the remaining rolls 
in the set. 

Fig. 144 shows a general section of a drawing frame. The 
slivers, S, are drawn upward through the sliver guide, T, and be- 




Fig. UO. Elevation Showing Drawing Frames. 

tween the fluted carrier roll, P, and the top roll,. N', then between 
the four pairs of draft rolls, D,C,B,A, where it receives a draft, 
usually as great as the number of cans put up at the back. Thus, 




Plan of Card Room Showing the Drawing Frames 
Arranged Longitudinallj'. 



if there are six cans at the back, and the sliver from these cans is 
drawn through as one sliver, or doubled six into one, the machine 
is given a draft of six, so that the weight of the sliver being de- 
livered is the same as the weight of that from each can. While 



209 



170 



COTTON SPINNING 



this is the usual practice, it is not a rule to follow, as general con- 
ditions and requirements determine the best draft and weight of 
sliver to be adopted. 

Upon leayiug the draft rolls, the sliver is drawn over the 




Fig. H3. Front Elevation of Drawing Frame Driven from Above. 

sliver plate, J, through the trumpet, ]^, and between the calender 
rolls, E and F. From this point, it falls through the spout of the 
coiler, G, and is coiled in the can, H. 

Stop Motions. The drawing frame is provided with four stop 
motions: A full can stop motion which operates when a set of cans 




A B C P 

Fig. 143. Section Showing Draft Rolls. 

at the front of the machine becomes full, two calender roll stop 
motions which operate when the sliver is absent from between the 
calender rolls or when a "wind-up" occurs on either of them, and 
a back stop motion which causes the head to stop when the sliver 
breaks at the back of the frame or a can becomes empty. 

The necessity for a back stop motion becomes more apparent 
v/hen we consider that after the drawing processes there is no op- 
portunity to rectify, to any extent, the inequalities in tlie weight 




^ K 



COTTON SPINNING 



171 



of the sliver. When we realize that in doubling six into one, the 
breaking of an end means 16% difference in the weight of the 
sliver, we soon see the need of a stop motion. If six slivers, each 




Fig. Ul. Geueviil Section ot Drawing Frame. 

weighing sixty grains per yard, were doubled with a draft of six 
we should still get a sixty grain sliver, but if an end should break, 
the weight of the slivers would be fifty grains, or 16% lighter. 

Of back stop motions, there are two styles used, mechanical 
and electrical. Opinions are divided as to which is the better one. 

Electrical Stop Motion. The principle, upon which the elec- 



172 



COTTON SPINNING 



trie Lack stop motion operates, depends upon the fact that cotton 
is an insiilator or non-conductor of electricity and tliat the slivers, 
passing between two rolls connected with opposite poles of an elec- 
tric generator, prevent the flow of the electric current. As long . 
as the sliver is between these rolls, the stop motion remains in- 
operative, but should it break and allow the rolls to come together, 
the circuit is completed and the machine stops instantly. 

Fig. 145 shows a section of the electric back stop motion 
magnet box which should be referred to in connection with Fig- 
14:4. The electric current for operating this stop motion is con- 




Fig. 145. Magnet Box tor Electric Back Stop Motion. 

ducted by means of rods, or wires, from the generator, which is 
conveniently located and is usually furnished for a certain number 
of deliveries of drawing. 

The positive pole or wire. A', is indicated by the sign -)- and 
the negative wire, Z^ by the sign — . The machine is practi- 
cally divided into positive and negative poles by insulating material 
throughout, the terminals of the poles being at the rolls P and N'. 
The current flows from the generator, as indicated by arrows, to 
the contact- block, R^, through the contact springs, B^, contact 
plate, C', and the electro-magnet, M'. From the electro-mao-net 
it passes upward on the wire connection to the stop motion roll 
stand, K, and terminates in the top roll, N', which runs in con- 



COTTON SPINNING 



173 



tact with K. The only point where the current can return to the 
generator is through the bottom or carrier roll, P, which is con- 
nected by the framing of the machine to the negative pole Z'. So 
long as the sliver is between the rolls N' and P, the circuit is 
broken and no flow of the electric current takes place, but, should 
a sliver break or run out, the top roll, N\ falls into contact with 
the carrier roll, P, completing the circuit from A" to Z'. ' The in- 
stant that the current flows through the electro -magnet, it attracts 
the armature F" into the path of the vibrating arm G'. As a con- 
sequence, the movement of the arm is arrested and the stop motion 
spring released, shipping the belt on to the loose pulley. The de- 
vice for releasing the spring rod is the same for the electric stop 




Fig. 146. Device for Releasing Stop Motion Spring. 

motion as for the mechanical one and will be referred to in another 
paragraph. 

The carrier roll, P, is fluted and extends the whole length of 
the head, but the top rolls, W, are made in short lengths with two 
bosses, one for each end of sliver. A lug on the stand, K, projects 
into a groove between the bosses and prevents any movement of 
the top rolls, longitudinally, on the carrier roll. 

The sliver guide, E,, which is pivoted at E.'', has a longitud- 
inally projecting arm, which is just clear of the underside of 
the carrier roll. If the cotton should collect and wind up on the 
carrier roll, its increased diameter would depress the horizontal 
arm, causing the sliver guide to turn about the center & and the 
adjustable pin K in its upper end will come in contact with the 
top roll. This completes the circuit and causes the frame to stop 
just as if the top rolls and carrier roll were brought into contact. 

For explaining the device for releasing the stop motion spring. 
Figure 146 has been prepared. It shows a section of the drawing 



174 



COTTON SPINNING 



frame and all parts not actually necessary in the explanation are 
omitted. The rocker shaft, J'-, is operated by an eccentric, L^, 
and is connected with it by an eccentric arm K, and a rocker arm 
K'. A pin, K', in the eccentric arm, rests in the bottom of a slot 
in the rocker arm and ia held in place by a spring K^ 

When any of the stop motions operate, the movements of the 
rocker shaft are arrested, and as the eccentric arm is positive in its 
movements, the stopping of the rocker shaft causes the pin in the 
eccentric arm to rise in the slot in K and in so doing, it is brought 
into contact with the latch lever, L", This causes the latch lever, 
which turns on a pin at C, to be withdrawn from a groove in the 



(^^^^ 




Pig. 147. Mechanical Bacli Stop Motion. 

spring rod, F\ releasing the spring, C*, and moving the belt on to 
the loose pu.lley. 

Mechanical Back Stop Motion. A drawing frame with a me- 
chanical back stop motion is shown in section in Fig. 147. The 
slivers are drawn from the cans between two rolls, L and M. The 
roll,- M, is continuous while L is made in short sections coverincr 
two slivers. From these rolls, the slivers pass forward ovei- stop 
motion spoons, N*, and between the draft rolls, D, C, B, and A, 
and finally pass as one sliver through the trumpet, N, between the 
calender rolls, E and F, and are coiled up in the can, H, by the 
coiler gear G. 

The stop motion spoons are mounted upon a knife edge, O, 
and they are so balanced, that when the sliver passes over them, 
the back ends, D', are held clear of the path of the rocker arm C^. 
If a sliver breaks, the back end, which is heavy, falls instant- 



S16 



COTTON SPINNING 



175 



ly into the path of the rocker arm and arrests its luotioii and the 
machine is stopped immediateh'. 

All parts, forward of the spoons, are substantially the same 
as those shown and described for the electric stop motion, and 
need no further explanation. 

Some drawing frames, with mechanical back stop motions, 
are built without the carrying rolls, L and M, shown in Figure 147. 
This works very well for the first and second processes of drawing 
after carding, but for stock which has been combed, it becomes 
necessary to have these rolls to lift the sliver out of the cans, as 
the slightest strain will cause it to pull apart. With very short 




Fig. 148. FuU Can Stop Motion. 

cotton and waste, it is also a help toward preventing the sliver 
from parting. 

Full Can Stop Motion. The full can stop motion, as the 
name implies, stops each individual head when the cans in that 
head become full. This stop motion, which is connected with one 
can in each head, serves as a guage for the others as. the cans are 
usually emptied in sets. 

The stop motion is shown in Figure 148, which niay be con- 
sidered with Figure 144. Bolted to the table is a slotted stand, ES 
carrying a lever, F^, which is mounted upon a pin,N^ In its nor- 
mal position, one end of this lever rests lightly upon the top of 
the coiler gear, G, and the other just above a projection of the arm, 
J", which is fastened to the rocker shaft, P-. 

When the can becomes full, the cotton presses upward against 
the underside of the coiler gear, G, causing it to raise the short 
end of the lever, F^, and this lever turning about the pin, N^, its 
long end is lowered into the path of the arm, J^, thus arrestino- the 
motion of the rocker shaft, P^. This, as before described, releases 



gl7 



176 



COTTON SPINXIXC; 



the stop motion spring which causes the belt to be shipped on to 
the loose pulley. 

The screw at H" serves as a means for a very tine adjustment 
of the stop motion. 

Figure 149 shows a device for stopping the drawing frame if 
the sliver should "wind up" on either of the calender rolls or 
"break down" before it gets to them. This stop motion, which is 
really two stop motions operated by one mechanical device, is 
caused to operate by the rising and falling of the outer calender 
roll, E. The bearing, E^, for the roll, is free to move in a slot in 
the calender stand, while the bearing for F is fast. Against the 
underside of E* is a lever, C, pivoted at M" and heavier at its 




Fig. 1-19. Calender Ron Stop Motion. 

long end which is forked so as to engage the rocker shaft arm, P, 
when either raised or lowered. 

If the sliver winds up on either calender roll, the increased 
diameter caused will move the roll, E, away from the roll, F, and 
in so doing will allow the lever, C^, to rise and its long end to 
engage the rocker shaft arm, J^ While if from any cause the sliv- 
er breaks down, the roll, E, will fall slightly against F and depress 
the short end of the lever, C^, causing the long enH to be brought 
into contact with P. 

In the short end of the lever, C, which is split, is an adjust- 
ing screw. A", for setting the stop motion. 

Clearers. The electricity, generated by the friction of the rolls 
and belts of the drawing frame, causes the loose fibers and flyings 
to adhere to the draft rolls and unless some means are taken to 
prevent this happening, the accumulation becomes detached from 
time to time, and is carried along with the sliver. This makes the 




IMPROVED RAILWAY HEAD— FRONT VIEW 
Saco & Pettee Machine Shops. 



COTTON SPINNING 



177 



work dirty and uneven, and frequently causes the sliver to break. 

The device employed to collect the loose cotton is called a. 
clearer and several styles are in use. The one most commonly 
used is shown in Figure 150. For the top rolls, this consists 
of a flat piece of wood. A, with wires, B, driven into the underside 
and supporting a flannel apron C. The apron rests lightly against 
the top of the rolls, and as they revolve the loose cotton is grad- 
ually collected by the rough surface of the apron, which has to be 
cleaned or "picked" at regular intervals. If the accumiilation is 
allowed to get too large it will 
become loose from the clearer 
and pass in with the sliver, 
hence the clearer should be 
cleaned as often as the case 
demands. 

. For the bottom clearer, 
strips of wood, D, covered with 
flannel are used. They conform 
in shape to the outline of the 
rolls and are held in contact 
with the flutes by weights, E. 
The straps holding the weights 
pass upward and around the 
Ijottom rolls. 

Another style of clearer is 
shown in Figure 151. This 
consists of two wooden rolls,, 
A and B, supported in a frame, C. Around the roll is an apron, 
D, of heavy flannel or carpet. The roll, A, is covered with per- 
forated tin and acts as a driver for the apron, while the roll, B, 
is a carrier with an adjusting screw, E, for keeping the apron tight. 
On the top of the frame is a comb, K, with the blade set close to 
the apron. Motion is given to the comb by an arm, F, from an 
eccentric, G. This arm also carries a pawl, H, which engages 
with the teeth of the ratchet gear, J, and through the gears, L 
and M, the roll. A, is turned slightly at each forward movement 
of the arm, F. 

By this means the apron, as it moves around slowly, wipes 




Pig. IriO. Common Top Clearer, 



17S 



COTTON SPINNING 



the top of the rolls and the cotton, which is collected, is combed 
into a roll as it reaches the comb when it is removed very easily. 

A set screw, N, is for adjusting the frame so that the apron 
shall just touch lightly on the top of the rolls, as any great pres- 
sure will cause them to slip on the bottom rolls and make uneven 
work. All that is necessary is to simply wipe them lightly and 
not retard their rotation. 

Diameter of Fluted Rolls. The size of the fluted rolls, on. 
most makes of drawing frames for ordinary length staple cotton, 
is shown in Figure 152. Sometimes this is varied and the back 




Sijikiil' 



Fig. 151, Revolving -Top Clearer. 

roll is made one and three-eighths inches in diameter instead of one 
and one-eighth inches diameter. 

As a rule, when the frame is to be used for long staple cotton, 
the I'olls are made larger in diameter, as the large rolls lessen to 
some extent the trouble from roller laps. The most common sizes 
are shown in Figures 153. 

For very short lap cotton, and when a large percentage of 
waste is to be used, the rolls are made of the diameters indicated 
in Figure 154. 

Setting of Rolls. In regard to setting the fluted rolls, no ex- 
act rule can be given except that the distance between the centers 
of the front and second rolls should be from one-quarter to three- 
eighths of an inch more than the average length of staple being 
worked, and this distance is made greater between the centers of 
the second and third rolls, and still greater between the centers of 
the third and back rolls. Thus, in Fioure 152, the distance be- 



COTTON SPINNING 



179 



tween the centers of the fi'ont and second rolls is one and three- 
eighths inches, between the second and third rolls, one and one-half 
inches, and between the third and back rolls, one and five-eighths 
inches. 

These distances vary under different conditions. If a sliver 




1| IS 18 

Fig. 163. Draft EoUs for Ordinary Length Staple Cotton. 

of eighty grains is being run, the distance between the centers of 
the rolls should be greater than when running a fifty grain sliver. 
This is due to the fact that not only the fibers directly in contact 
with the bite of the roll are being drawn, but the surrounding 
ones are acted upon also, and as the mass of cotton in a heavy 




li U iz la 

Fig. 153. Draft Rolls for Long Staple Cotton. 

sliver is considerable, it is impossible to produce a sliver of even 
weight unless there is more space between the bite of the several 
pairs of rolls. 

If the draft is short, the rolls may be set closer than when an 
excessive draft is used, but with a very long draft the rolls must 
be set more open. In all cases the speed must be reduced with a 
large draft or a large amount of waste will be made. 

Top Rolls. There are two kinds of top rolls used, leather 
covered rolls and metallic rolls. The leather covered rolls are 
made in two styles, shell and solid. The shell roll, which is gen- 
erally used for all four lines, is shown in . Fig. 155. This roll is 



ISO 



COTTON SPINNING 



made in three parts, the urhor, the shell aud the hushing. The 
arbor is stationary and the shell revolves upon it. This gives a 
long bearing surface for the shell and a chance for a thorough 
lubrication of the arbor. 

The ends of botli arbor and bushing are made alike and are 




Fig. 154. Draft RoUs lor Short Staple Cotton. 

held in place in the slides of the roll stands. The shoulders, A 
bear against the sides of the stands to prevent end movement to 
the rolls and .the weight hooks are hung upon the necks of the 
rolls at B. 

A section of the shell and bushing, in position upon the 




Fig. 165. SheU Top Boll. 

arbor, is shown in the lower view of the drawing. The boss of 
the shell, C, is first covered with specially woven cloth and then 
with roller leather made from sheepskin. 

The solid top roll, which is sometimes used, is the same in 



COTTON SPINNING 



181 




Fig. !56. Perspective View of 
Metallic Top Rolls. 



outline as the shell roll. The weight hooks are hung in the same 
manner, but as the whole roll revolves, it necessitates oiling the 
neck of the roll where the weight hook bears. 

The weighting is so arranged that the pressure may be re- 
moved from the top rolls when 
the machine is to stand idle for 
any length of time. This pre- 
vents the leather from becoming 
grooTOd by the flutes of the bot- 
tom roller. 

As previously mentioned, 
the shell roll is generally used 
for all four lines, but for the 
back line a steel fluted roll, tne 
same as the bottom roll, is sometimes used. 

When metallic top rolls are used, the production of the draw- 
ing frame is greatly increased, owing to the fact that the flutes of 
the rolls interlock and the sliver, in passing between them, is made 
to follow th« outline of the flutes. This point may be seen by 
examining Figures 156 and 157. The rolls are prevented from 
bottoming by collars. A, at each end of both top and bottom rolls. 
If the sliver follows the exact outline of the flutes, a one and 

three-eighths front roll 
will deliver, in one rev- 
olution, five and seven- 
ty-four one-hundredths 
inches, while a common 
roll, of the same diam- 
eter, will deliver only 
four and thirty-one one- 
hundredths inches, 
which shows that the 
delivery of a metallic 
roll is thirty- three per cent greater, but as a fact, unless the sliver 
is extremely light, it will not follow the outline of the flutes closely 
enough to deliver this amount. It is plain that on a heavy sliver, 
the thickness prevents the flutes from interlocking as deeply as witli 
a light one; consequently, one revolution of the front roll will not 




Pig. 157, 



Enlarged Section of Metallic 
Top Rolls. 



233 



182 



COTTON SPINNING 



deliver as great a length and, for this reason, it is impossible to 
figure the exact production of a drawing frame with metallic rolls. 
It is, however, safe to estimate from twenty-five to thirty-three 
per cent greater production than with the common roll. 

The front metallic roll, one and three-eighths inches in diame- 
ter, is made with forty-four flutes, and in figuring the draft, this 
should be called y or 1| inches in diameter, which is thirty-thi'ee 
per cent greater than a common roll. The second roll, 1^ inches 
in diameter, is made with thirty-six flutes and should be called | 
or' If inches in diameter. The third roll, 1-| inches in diameter, 




CALENDER ROLL 3 DIA. 

Fig. 158. Diagram of Drawing Frame Draft Gearing. 

is made with twenty-seven flutes and should be called | or 1-| 
inches in diameter, and the back roll, 1^ inches in diameter, is 
made with eighteen flutes and is called '/ or 1| inches in diam- 
eter. With these points, it is comparatively easy to figure the 
draft. 

A diagram of the draft gearing is given in Fig. 158 from 
which the usual calculations may be made. 
CALCULATIONS 

Kule- 1. To findthedraftof the drawing frame between the cal- 
ender rolls and the back roll : Multiply together the driven gears and 
the diameter of the calender rolls and divide the product by the prod- 
uct of the driving gears multiplied together with the diameter of 
the back roll. The driven gears are L, J, B, (draft change gear, 
41 teeth) D, Y and H, and the driving gears are M, K, A, C, 



COTTON SPINNING 183 

E and G. The diameter of the calender rolls is 3 inches and may be 
called 2i, and the diameter of the back roll is 1^ inches and may be 
called 9. 

61X22X41X65X28X27X24 ^ ,,, 
^^^'^'V^^-- 45X61X26X-25X25X25X 9 ^ ^•^'^ 
Kule 2. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in the above 
rule but omit the draft change gear, B. 

61 X 22 X 65 X 28 X 27 X 24 ^ ^ ^^ 

^^"'"P^^-^ 45 X 61 X 26 X 25 X 25 X 25 X 9 == ^'^^'^ 
liule 3. To find the draft: ^Multiply tlie factor by the num- 
ber of teeth in the draft change gear. 

Example: 0.1576 X 41 = 6.4616 

Kule 4. To find the number of teeth in the draft gear: 
Divide the required draft by the factor. 

6.4616 
Example: j^-^^^ = 41. 

The draft of the drawing frame is divided between the rolls 
in the following manner: Between the front roll and the second 
roll, it is 8.08 draft and may be found liy a]}plying the same rule 
as for the total draft. 

^ , 45 X 35 X 11 

Example: 25 X 25 X 9 = '^'^^^ ' 

x\n examination of the diagram of the gearing, Fig. 158, will 
show that the draft between the front and second rolls is not 
affected by changing the total draft of the machine, and unless the 
total draft is made unusually short, the draft between these rolls 
is not changed, but, between the second and third rolls, the draft 
is affected when changing the draft gear, B. Thus, with a 41 
tooth draft gear, which is correct for a total draft of 6.46, the 
draft between the second and third rolls is 1.626. 

25 X 25 X 41 X 65 X 9 ^ ^^^ 

^^""^Pl^ -■ 45 X 35 X 26 X 25 X 9 = 1-^26 

The draft between the third and back rolls is 1.209 and is not 
affected by changing the total draft as the back roll is driven from 
the third. 

27 X 28 X 9 

^^^^P^'^^ 25X25X9 ^-^-^^'-' 



184 COTTON SPINNING 

Between the front fluted rolls and calender rolls there is a 
slight draft which can be regulated by changing the gear, L. 
of 61 teeth. 

94. y^ Q;i X 22 

Example: 45 X 61 X 11 ^ ^"^^^ 

The total draft niaj be found by multiplying together the 
draft Detween the rolls. 

Example: 3.080 X 1.626 X 1.209 X 1.066 = 6.45 + 

Rule 5. To find the production of the drawing frame: 
Multiply together the number of revolutions of the front roll per 
minute (300), the number of inches delivered by the calender rolls 
at each revolution of the front roll (4.60), the number of minutes 
run per day (600) and the weight of the sliver in grains per yard 
(00). Divide the product by the number of grains in one pound 
(7,000) multiplied by the number of inches in one yard (36). 

In figuring the production of the drawing frame, the number 
of inches, delivered by the calender rolls at each revolution of the 
front roll, should be considered as there is a draft of 1.066 between 
them with a 61 tooth gear at L. The calender rolls deliver 4.60 
inches at each revolution of the front roll. 

300X4.60X600X60 ^,_^^^, 

Example : 7000 X 36 = ^''^'^^ 

From the number of pounds given in the above exanjple there 
should be deducted about 20 per cent for time lost in cleaning, 
oiling and piecing broken ends. 

Rule 6. To find the factor for the production of the draw- 
ing frame: Proceed as in Rule 5, but omit the revolutions of the 
front roll and the weight of the sliver. 
4.60 X 600 

Example: 7000 X 36 = "^^^^ 

Rule 7. To find the production with the factor given : Mul- 
tiply the factor by the number of revolutions of the front roll and 
the weight of the sliver. 

Example: .1095 X 300 X 60 = 197.1 

Rule 8. To find the draft necessary to make a sliver of a 
certain weight: Multiply together the number of slivers entering 
at the back of the drawing frame (6) by their weight in grains per 



236 



COTTON SPINNING 



1S5 



yard (60) and divide by the weight in grains per yard of the sliver 
being delivered. 

V 1 -Q X 60 . 

Example: . — ^k — ^ b. 

Kiile 9. To find the weight of the sliver being delivered: 

Multiply together thennmber of slivers entering at the back (<>) 

by their weight in grains per yard (60) and divide by the* draft 

(6)- 

6 X 60 ,^- 
Example: , — P — = 60. 

To find the draft of the railway head: Proceed as in Rule 1. 
A diagram of the gearing is given in Fig. 138. The draft change 
gear is on the end of the top cone shaft and the cone belt should be 
considered midway of the ends of the cones when the diameters of 
both are equal. The driven gears are S, P, E and G (draft change 
gear 40 teeth) front roll 1-| inches diameter. The driving gears 
are R, Q, F and H, and the back roll is IJ inches diameter. 
60 X 30 X 72 X 40 X 12 , 
^"^'"P^«= 27X32X37X36X 9 =^ "^^ 

It is usuallycustomary to also change the draft between all of 
the I'olls when changing the total draft of the railway head. Be- 
tween the back and third rolls, this change is effected by changing 
the gear, B, and between the third and second rolls by changing 
the gear, C. The table shown herewith gives the correct gears for 
the changes in draft. 

TABLE OF CHANQE GEARS 





No. of 


No. Of 


No. Of 




No. of 


No. of 


No. of 


Draft. 


Teeth in 


Teeth in 


Teeth in 


Draft. 


Teeth In 


Teeth In 


Teeth in 




Gear G. 


Gear B. 


Gear C. ! 




Gear G. 


Gear B. 


Gear C. 


2.10 


14 


32 


24 


4.30 


28 


57' 


32 


2.23 


15 


32 


34 


4.35 


29 


58 


33 


3.40 


16 


34 


25 


4.50 


30 


61 


34 


3.65 


17 


37 


26 


4.65 


31 


63 


34 


2.70 


18 


37 


20 


4.82 


32 


66 


35 


2.86 


19 


40 


27 


4.95 


33 


67 


35 


3.00 


20 


43 


38 


5.10 


34 


68 


35 


3.15 


31 


43 


28 


6.25 


35 


■71 


36 


3.30 


82 


45 


29 


5.40 


36 


73 


36 


3.45 


23 


it 


30 


6.55 


37 


73 


37 


3.60 


24 


50 


30 


5.70 


38 


74 


37 


3.75 


25 


52 


31 


5.87 


39 


74 


3T 


3.90 


36 


53 


31 


6.00 


40 


74 


37 


4.05 


27 


.55 


33 











186 



COTTON SPINNING 



FLY FRAMES. 

In the procesa which follows drawing, the machines employ- 
ed are called fly frames or roving machines. The fly frame con- 
tinues the drawing process, but the cotton is manipulated in a 




different manner. Two, three, and sometimes four machines are 
necessary, depending upon the number of yarn it is intended to 
finally spin, as the cotton from the roving machine goes directly to 
the spinning frame. 

The machines are practically the same in mechanical detail, 
differing only in size and weight. The machine first used is called 



COTTON SPINNING 



187 



the slubber, the second is the intermediate, and the third is called 
the fine frame. When a fourth is necessary to reduce the cotton 
to the correct weight, it is called the jack frame. 

The fly frames may be arranged longitudinally or transversely 
of the mill. The most common arrangement is shown in Fig. 159. 
In this illustration there are three processes. The slubbers are 
placed, as a pair, directly in front of the drawing frames, the inter- 
mediates are placed on each side of the slubbers and the fine 
frames extend across the mill in an adjoining row. 

When practicable, each pair of machines should be driven 
from the same counter shaft pulley, which has two faces divided by 
a flange. The counter shaft should be placed about over the 




Fig. 160. Sectional Elevation Showing Fly Frames. 

center of the front or work alley. The reason for this is very 
apparent if we examine Fig. 160, which is a sectional elevation show- 
ing the fine frames illustrated in the previous drawing. The 
driving pulleys, which are near the back side of the machine, turn 
toward the back, which necessitates a cross belt for one and a straight 
or open belt for the other. With the counter shaft over the work 
alley, the point where the belts separate is high enough to allow 
passage beneath, but if the shaft were in the back alley, there 
would not be passage room. 

Before entering upon a description of the fly frame, the 
methods of numbering yarns and roving and the tables of weights 
and measures, used in cotton manufacturing, should be fully un- 
derstood. 

In all processes, up to the present one, reference has been 
made to cotton as weighing a certain number of grains or ounces 



188 COTTON SPINNING 

per yard. After it has passed th-rough the slubber, it is called 
roving and the weight is based upon the number of hanks, of SiU 
yards each, there are in one pound. 

The English table of weights is a combination of avoirdupois 
and troy weights and enables a very fine adjustment to be made. 

TABLE OF WEIGHT. 

24 grains = 1 pennyweight (dwt.) 
437.5 " =18 " + 5X grains = 1 ounce. 

7000 " = 291 " +16 grains = 1 pound. 

TABLE OF MEASURE. 

1.5 yards = 1 thread. 
120 yards = 80 threads = 1 skein. 
840 yards = 560 threads = 7 skeins — 1 hank. 

If we measure 840 yards of roving and find that it weighs 
one pound, it is called one hank and weighs, per yard, 8.33 grains. 

7,000 -^ 840 = 8.33 
If there are 1680 yards in one pound, it is called two hank, 
and weighs, per yard, just half as much as one hank, or 4.16 grains. 

7,000 ^ 1680 = 4.16 

If 420 yards weigh one pound, it is half hank and weighs 
16.66 grains per yard. 

Number 1 roving, or one hank, and number 1 yarn weigh the 
same per yard, but as' the roving is twisted so much less than the 
yarn, it appears to be much heavier. 

For convenience and on account of the extreme delicacy of rov- 
ing, it is customary, in actual practice, to measure twelve yards to 
ascertain the weight. The reason for taking just this length is as 
follows: There are 840 yards in a hank and twelve yards is -^^ of 
this amount and if we divide twelve yards by J^ of a pound ( 100 
grains), we get the same result as if we should weigh the whole 
hank. 

12 yards = -^^^ of a hank or 840 yards. 
100 grains == -^\ of a pound or 7,000 grains. 

The following table gives the weight and standard twist for 
rovine from .25 hank to 20.00 hank. 



COTTON SPINNING 



189 



ROVINQ TABLE. 



Hank 


Grains per 


Twist per 


Hank 


. Grains per 


Twist per 


Roving. 


■ Yard. 


Inch. 


Roving. 


Yard. 


Inch. 


n- 


33.33 


.60 


2.00 


4.16 


1.70 




30 


a7.77 


.65 


2.25 


3.70 


1.80 




35 


33.80 


.70 


2.50 


3.33 


1.90 




40 


20.83 


.75 


3.75 


3,30 


1.99 




45 


18.61 


.80 


3.00 


2.78 


3.08 




50 


16.66 


.84 


3.50 


2.38 


2.34 




55 


15.15 


.88 


4.00 


2.08 


1.40 




60 


13.88 


.93 


4.50 


1.85 


2.55 




66 


13.82 


.95 


5.00 


1.67 


a.68 




70 


11.90 


1.00 


6.00 


1.39 


3.93 




75 


11.11 


1.04 


7.00 


1.19 


3.18 




80 . 


10.43 


1.07 


8.00 


1.04 


3.40 




85 


9.80 


1.11 


9.00 


.93 


3.60 




90 


9.36 


1.14 


10.00 


.83 


3.79 




95 


8.77 


1.17 


11.00 


.76 


3.97 




00 


8.33 


1.20 


12.00 


.69 


4.15 




10 


7.68 


1.26 


13.00 


.64 


4.33 




20 


6.94 


1.31 


14.00 


.59 


4.49 




30 


6.41 


1.37 


15.00 


.65 


4.66 




40 


5 95 


1.42 


16.00 


.53 


4.80 




50 


5.55 


1.47 


17.00 


.49 


4,95 




60 


6.21 


1.52 


18.00 


.46 


5.09 




70 


4.90 


1.56 


19.00 


■ .43 


6.33 




80 


4.63 


1.61 


30.00 


.43 ■ 


5.37 




90 


4.38 


1.66 









The Slubber receives the cans of sliver at the back, from the 
last drawing frame and it is put through the machine and wound 
upon bobbins. These bobbins are then placed in the creel of the 
intermediate frame and the roving is put through the same process 
and. delivered to the creel of the fine frame, where the operations 
which occur on the other machines are repeated. 

A section of a fine frame is given in Fig. 161. The bobbins^ 
A, are placed in the creel, two ends for each spindle. The roving 
passes around the rod, B, and through the trumpets, or guides, C, 
and is drawn between the draft rolls, D, E and F. From the front 
roll it passes to the nose of the flyer, G, through the hole, H, and 
down one leg of the flyer and through the eye of the presser, K, and 
is finally wound upon the bobbin, L. 

The flyers, of which there are two rows, iit snugly in the top of 
the spindle, J, and revolve with it. This causes the roving to be 
twisted, which gives it sufficient strength to enable it to be wound 
upon the bobbins. 

The spindles are stationary so far as any vertical movement is 
concerned. They rest in steps, M, which are carried by the step 
rail, Ki. 

The bobbins, which are driven separately, from the spindles, are 
carried by the bobbin, or bolster rail, N, which is made to traverse 



190 



COTTON SPINNING 



lip and down so that the layers of roving shall be wound evenly. 

A drawing of the spindles, bobbins and flyers is shown in Fig. 

162. The upper part of the spindle is supported by the bolster, P, 




Fig. 161. Sectional Elevation of Flue Fly Frame. 

which is fastened to the bobbin rail and the bobbin, which seems 
to be upon the spindle, is simply a loose fit around the bolster. 
The spindles are driven from the spindle shaft, P^, by the 



CCTPTON SPINNING 



191 



bevel gears, L' and T', and the bobbins are driven from the bobbin 
shaft, J2, by the bevel gears, M* and N'. The gear, M', revolves 
upon the bolster and the bobbin, which is slotted on the bottom, is 
driven from the gear by a pin which 
fits into one of the slots. The bobbin 
revolves between the arms of the flyer 
and in the same direction as the flyer, 
bat to wind the roving, it must run 
faster or slower than the flyer. 

Flyer Lead and Bobbin Lead. The 
front roll delivers the roving at a con- 
stant speed which accords to the hank 
being spun, and the roving must be 
wound upon the bobbin at the same 
speed by which it is delivered. , There 
are two ways by which this is accom- 
plished: "The Flyer Lead" and "The 
Bobbin Lead". The first mentioned is 
the older method and is used upon the 
"Speeder", a machine which corresponds 
to the fiy frame and may be found in 
operation in some mills at the present 
time. 

With the "Flyer Lead", the flyer 
is run at a constant speed, which is 
greater than that of the bobbin and the 
roving is wrapped upon the surface of 
the bobbin by the excessive speed of the 
flyer. As the bobbin increases in diameter, its speed must be 
accelerated so that it shall wind the same length that the front roll 
delivers. 

"With the "Bobbin Lead" which is used upon the fly frame, 
the flyer is i-uu at a constant speed but less than that of the bobbin. 
The roving is drawn onto the surface of the bobbin by the excess 
of its speed over that of the flyer, and as the bobbin increases in 
diameter, its speed must be decreased gradually. 

It would seem that, with the "flyer lead," to increase the speed 
of the bobbin woald cause a greater length of roving to be wound 




Fig. 162. 
Enlarged View of Spindles. 



192 



COTTON SPINNING 



and, as this is puzzling to many, it will bear further explanation. 

We will call the speed of the flyer 200 E.P.M. and the speed 
of the empty bobbin, which is one inch in diameter, 100 E..P.M. 
As the circumference of a one inch bobbin is 3.14+ inches, each 
revolution that the flyer makes, more than the bobbin, will wind 
3.14+ inches of roving, and while the flyer is making two hundred 
revolutions, 314 + inches of roving will be wound upon the bobbin. 

When the bobbin is two inches in diameter, its circumference 

is- 6.28+ inches, and if the flyer and the bobbin continue to run at 

A A A 




N0.1 



N0.2 

Diagram Illustrating Flyer Lead. 



N0.3 



the same relative speed, two hundred revolutions of the flyer will 
cause 628 inches of roving to be wound. 

The diagrams, shown in Fig. 163, will help to make this plain. 
Number 1 shows the flyer as having made one-half of a revolution, 
from A to B,and the empty bobbin, which we will call one inch 
in diameter, one-quarter of a revolution, from C to D. The length 
of roving wound will be equal to the distance around the barrel of 
the bobbin from D to E, which is one-quarter of its circumference 
or about .78 of an inch. 

Number 2 shows the bobbin as two im^hes in diameter; the 
flyer has made one-half of a revolution, from A to B, and the bob- 
bin has made one-quarter of a revolution, from C to D. The 
length wound is indicated by the distance measured around the 
bobbin, from D to E, which is 1.57 inches; twice as much as the 
empty bobbin. 

Now, as the speed of the flyer is constant and the length of 
roving delivered is always the same, it is evident that the amount, 
wound upon the bobbin, can be only what is delivered by the front 
roll and as the larger the bobbin grows the greater is its circum- 



COTTON SPINNING 



193 



ference, the only way that the same length of roving can be wound 
is Ijy increasing the speed of the bobbin so that the same ratio in its 






m 2 li. 




ctj 


il 


<1U 


1 1 


UJ 1- 




oo 


II 


f:"n' 


^ 


^Si^^J 


li W 


D— £)'• 


ipl 1 












wnMinn 


[J,,„„„|,fr 



SASTind'oNiAiya 



circumferential velocity shall be maintained at all times between it 
and the flyer. 



Wi COTTON SPINNING 



Number 3 shows the bobbin as two inches in diameter, and, in 
order to wind the proper length of roving, it will have to make 
about three-eighths of a revolution. The length wound is repre- 
sented by the distance, D-E, which, measured on the circumference 
of the bobbin, will be found to be the same as the distance D-E, 
in the first diagram. 

The bobbin lead needs no farther explanation than has been 
already given; the larger the bobbin grows, the slower it mnst run 
to wind the roving at the same speed, at all times. 

Gearing. The reduction in the speed of the bobbin is accom- 
plished by a pair of cones in connection with the differential geai-, 
and to enable the student to follow clearly the gearing diagram, 
Fig. 164 has been made. 

Sjyeed (if Flyer. The speed of the driving shaft, which is con- 
stant, is 400 R.P.M., and the flyers are driven from the driving shaft 
l)y the gears, GS IIS T' and L'. They therefore run 1254.54 K. 
P.M. 

60X46X400 

— w^m = ^""^-^^ 

Speed of Front Roll. The front roll, which is 1^ inches in 
diameter, is also driven from the driving shaft by the gears, A^, 
N^, K^ and L'. The speed of the front rolls remains constant, except 
when a change is made in the number of roving being spun. This 
is accomplished by changing the number of teeth in the twist gear, 
A'. For 3.50 hank roving, the twist gear should have 40 teeth. 
The speed of the front roll, therefore, is 157.72 E..P.M. 

40 X 07 X 400 _ 
WyTlM 157.7^ + 

Sjyeed of Empty Bohhin. The barrel of the empty bobbin is 
1| inches in diameter and to wind onto its surface the roving de- 
live'-ed by the front roll, it must make 129.03 K.P.M. 

157.72 X 1.125 (diameter of the front roll) 
1.375 (diameter of empty bobbin ) 

As we have seen, the speed of the flyer is 1254.54 R.P.M., and 
the speed of the empty bobbin, necessary to wind the roving, is 
129.03 R.P.M. 

Now, as the bobbins run at a greater speed than the flyers, the 



COTTON SPINNING 195 



actual speed of the bobbins must be added to that of the flyers. This 
will give 1883.57 E. P.M. 

Revolutions of flyers 1254.54 

Revolutions of empty bobbins 

necessary to wind rovino- 129.03 



Actual revolution of empty bobbins 1383.57 

When the bobbin is full, it is 34 inches in diameter and to 
wind the roving, it must make 50.1)9 R.P.M. 

157.72 X 1.125 (diameter of front roll) _ rApn i 
3.5 (diameter of full bobbin) 

Tq this speed should be added, as before, the revolutions of the 
^ flyer, which makes the actual speed of the full bobbin 1805.23 R. 

'p.m. 

Revolutions of full bobbin required to wind roving 50.69 

Revolutions of flyers 1254.54 



Actual revolutions of full bobbin 1305.23 

The next step is to find the revolutions of the sleeve gear, T, 

when winding upon the bare bobbin. The gears in the train are 

M', N\ U and T. The sleeve gear makes 441.13 R.P.M. 

1383.57 X 32 X 42 _ 

46 X 63 

With the full bobbin, the revolutions of the sleeve gear will 

be 416.16 R.P M. 

1305.23x22x42 
n^ ?n5 == 416. 1() 

46 X 63 

Now, we must find the revolutions of the sun wheel, S.but 
before this is done, it will be necessary to refer to the compound, 
or differential gearing shown in an enlarged view in Fig. 165. 
The purpose of this train of gears is to connect the positive driv- 
ing of the flyers with the necessarily varying speed of the bobbins 
by a pair of cones and a belt. 

The sleeve gear, T, runs upon a bushing on the driving shaft, 
and turns in the opposite direction frona it, as indicated by the 
arrows. The two mitre gears, A', of forty-two teeth, are carried by 
a cross, the extended arms of which form bearings for the gears to 
turn upon. The sun wheel and cross are fastened together and 



196 



COTTON SPINNING 



turn upon a bushing on the driving shaft, the same as the sleeve 
gear. The mitre gear, Jj, is fast upon the driving shaft and the 
mitre geai-, S', is fast upon the hub of the sleeve gear. 

The gears, S^ and TJ, turn in opposite directions and, if they 
are run at the same speed, the sun wheel will remain stationary. 
But if S^ is run at a greater speed than L^ each revolution it 
makes in excess of JJ will cause the sun wheel to make one- half 
of a revolution in the same direction as S'. 

To illustrate this: If S^ is given four revolutions and Jj, two 




Fig. 165. Fly Frame Differential Gearing. 

revolutions, in the opposite direction, the sun wheel will turn one 
revolution or one-half the difference between the revolutions of 
the gears, S' and Jj, but in the direction of S'. 

The speed of the driving shaft is 400R.P.M. and, as we have 
found, the speed of the loose sleeve is 441.13 R.P.M. but in the 
opposite direction. The sun wheel, then, must make 20.56 R.P.M. , 
which is one-half the difference between the speed of the driving 
shaft and the speed of the sleeve gear. 

With the full bobbin, the sleeve gear makes 416.16 R.P.M., 
which is 16,16 revolutions more than the speed of the driving 
shaft. The speed of the sun wheel will be 8.08 R.P.M., a dif- 
ference of only 12.78 revolutions between the full and the empty 
bobbin. 

We must find next the revolutions of the bottom cone, B^, for 



COTTON SPINNING 197 

both the full and'the empty bobbin. The sun wheel is driven from 
tlie bottom cone by the gears, C-, Ti?, Q, P' and O. Starting with 
20.56 revolutions we get 187.04-f- il.P.M. for the bottom cone. 

20.56 X 150 X 68 x 68 



25 X 68 X 22 



381.29- 



With the full bobbin, the speed of the bottom cone will be 149.84-f 
R.P.M. 

8.08x150x68x68 _ ^ ^^^ g^^ 



25 X 68 X 22 

Cones. We will find next the sizes the cones must be to give the 
necessary range in speed. The top or driving cone, G', is driven from 
the driving shaft by the gears, A^ H^ and N^. A^ is the twist gear, as 
already mentioned. The speed of the top cone is 266.66 + R.P.M. 

^QQX^Q = 266.66 + 
60 

The diameter of the large end of the top cone is six inches and the 
small end three inches. The bottom cone is the same in diameter at 
the ends as the top cone. With the cone belt upon the large end of the 
top cone, the speed of the bottom cone will be 533.33 + R.P.M. 

266.66 X 6 ,„ „, , 
= 536.60 + 

AVith the cone belt at the small end of the top cone, the speed of 
the bottom cone will be 133.33 + R.P.M. 

2_66.6^^3^^33 33 
6 ^ 

With the cones of the diameter, at the ends, as given above, the 
difference in the extreme speeds of the bottom cone is 400 R.P.M. 
and the difference in the speeds, required to wind a full bobbin, is 
231.45 R.P.M. 

The cones may be made any diameter or length consistent with 
the allotted space in the machine, but the difference between the diam- 
eters of the small and large ends must be more than enough to give the 
extreme speeds necessary to wind a bobbin. 

The faces of the cones are curved, the top cone concave and the 
bottom cone convex. 



339 



198 



COTTON SPINNING 



The cone belt is upon the large end of the top cone when the 
winding begins and, as each successive layer of roving is added, it is 
shifted a little distance along the cones, according to the hank roving, 
being spun. With coarse numbers, the size of the bobbin increases 
rapidly, and it requires a greater movement of the cone belt than when 
fine numbers are being spun. 

To illustrate this : A pair of cones and four bobbins, in different 




BOBBIN 3'DIA. 
SPEED 400R.P.M. 



Fig. J66. Diagram of Cones. 



BOBBIN 4" DIA. 
SPEED300r'.P.M. 



stages of building, are shown in Fig. 166. The diameter of the empty 
bobbin is one inch and that of the full bobbin, four inches. The rov- 
ing, which we will call one-sixteenth inch in diameter, will add one- 
eighth of an inch to the diameter of the bobbin for each layer wound. 
We will call the speed of the empty bobbin 1200 R.P.M., which 
is three times that of the bottom cone and, as the bobbin is 3.14 -|- 



COTTON SPINNING 199 

inches in circumference, there will be wovuid 3768 inches of roving. 
3.14X1200 = 3768. 

When eight layers have been added, the bobbin will be two inches 
in diameter or 6.28+ inches in circumference and to wind 3768 inches 
of roving, its speed must be 600 R.P.M. 

■'^-S = 600. 
6.28 

The belt will have made eight shifts along the cone, from A to B, 
and the speed of the bottom cone will be 200 R.P.M. 

When sixteen layers of roving have been wound the diameter of 
the bobbin will be three inches and the circumference will be 9.42 
inches. To wind 3768 inches, its speed must be 400 R.P.M. 

3768 ^ 4QQ 
9.42 

The belt will have moved from B to C and the speed of the bottom 
cone will be 133.33 R.P.M. 

When the bobbin is full, twenty-four layers have been added to 
make four inches in diameter and its circumference will be 12.56 + 
inches. The speed must be 300 R.P.M. 

The movement of the cone belt, from A to B, is one-third the 
length of the cones, but the speed of the bobbin decreases one-half, 
from 1200 to 600 R.P.IM. From B to C the distance is one-third and 
the bobbin decreases in speed from 600 to 400 R.P.M., only one-third. 
The remaining distance, C — D, is one-third and the speed decreases 
from 400 to 300 R.P.M. or one quarter the number of revolutions. 

If the roving were twice the diameter, it would be necessary to 
shift the cone belt just twice as far along the cones and there would be 
four layers, only, for each inch added to the diameter of the bobbin. 

Reversing Motion. The reversing motion, commonly called 
rail motion and traverse motion, is the mechanism employed to change 
the direction of the bobbin rail at each end of the traverse. 

At the beginning of a set, the rail moves its greatest distance and 
the roving is wound nearly the whole length of the bobbin, as shown in 



200 



COTTON SPINNING 



Fig. 167, by the distance C — D. As each layer is added, the traverse 
of the rail is shortened, slightly, until, at the completion of the building 
of the bobbin, it is a little more than one-half as much as at the start. 
This is shown by the distance E — F. The amount that the traverse is 
shortened is governed by the taper gear F^ (shown in Fig. 168), and 
the speed that the rail is traversed, by the lay gear E'. 

It is desirable to get as much roving upon a bobbin as possible, as 

the machine will not have to be dofPed as often but, at the same time, 

if the traverse is not shortened enough, 

\ ( ^c the ends of the bobbins will be too square, 

/ \ ; and the layers of roving will be apt to 

'"r-f- -^ I "slough off" and the roving break when 

unwound. 

The reversing motion is shown in 
Figs. 168, 169, 170, 171 and 172. 

On the end of the top cone shaft, XS 

is a bevel gear, X, of nineteen teeth and 

upon the top of the tumbling shaft, Y^, is 

a bevel gear, Y, of forty teeth, called the 

gap gear from the fact that several teeth 

^\ / . I are omitted on opposite sides in its diam- 

/ \ eter, leaving spaces in which the gear on 

the cone shaft can revolve without im- 

Fig, 167. Fly Frame Bobbin. parthig motion to the tumbling shaft. 

Lower, on the tumbling shaft is the tumbling dog, F', and on the 

extreme lower end is a mitre gear, H^. 

On the horizontal shaft, K-, called the reverse shaft, is the reverse 
crank, T^ starting cam, AV, and mitre gear, H^. The last is in gear 
with the gear, H-, on the tumbling shaft. 

Builder. The builder, which should be described in connection 
with the reversing motion, consists of a main piece, B-, builder screw, 
D', with right and left threads, builder rack, I^, and top and bottom 
jaws, V, and, X-. A gear P, which is upon the lifting shaft, A^ is in 
contact with the builder rack. The rotations of the lifting shaft cause 
the builder to slide up and down on the guide rod, W^. 

On the stem of the builder screw is a gear, Z', of twenty teeth, 
which is driven from a similar gear, V^, of twenty-eight teeth, which is 
upon the stud with the taper gear, F^ ^Motion is given to the builder 



848 



COTTON SPINNING 



201 




13 '^ '-W- 



1"" ' """" ir 



24S 



202 



COTTON SPINNING 



screw from the cone' rack, P, by the taper gear. At each end of the 
traverse, the builder screw is turned a trifle and the jaws are brought 
more closely together. The builder and parts directly connected are 
shown on an enlarged scale in Fig. 170. 

'VSTien the bobbin rail is moving upward, the builder is moving in 
the opposite direction. In the drawing, Fig. ITOj we will assume that 
the builder is going downward. The upper arm of the tumbling dog, 
F-, is pressed firmly against the top builder by the starting spring, U'. 
When the builder descends enough to clear the arm of the tumbling 
dog, several changes take p'ace instantly. 

The starting presser, T^, which is actuated by the spring, US 




x^U^ 



FLOOR LINE 



Fig. 169. Elevation Showiug Starting Cam. 

turns the tumbling shaft slightly so that the bevel on the top cone shaft, 
which is revolving rapidly, engages the toothed portion of the gap gear 
and gives the tumbling shaft one-half of a revolution. 

The reverse shaft, which is driven from the tumbling shaft, also 
turns half around and shifts the reverse gearing, changing the direction 
of the bobbin rail. 

The tension gearing, which is driven from the bevel gear, E% on 
the reverse shaft, is turned a little and the cone rack is moved and 
.shifts the belt along the cones. 

The taper gear is driven from the cone rack, and is turned part of 



COTTON SPINNING 



203 



a revolution, and the builder jaws are brought together more closely, 
thus shortening the traverse of the rail. 

All these movements take place simultaneously, the half revolu- 
tion of the tumbling shaft brings the opposite space in the gap gear 




Fig. 170. Builder. 

under the top cone shaft bevel, and the lower arm of the tumbling dog 
is brought up against the lower builder jaw, where it is held firmly by 
the starting cam and presser. This leaves the various parts in position 
to operate, when the end of the traverse is reached again. 



204 



COTTON SPINNING 



The drawings of the reverse gearing, in Figs.. 171 and 172, show 
the method employed to change the direction of the traverse of the rail. 

On the reverse shaft, K^, is a crank, T^, which works in a slot in 
the end of the reverse arm, O^. The upper part of this arm is con- 
nected to a plate, W-", which is mounted upon the shaft, U^, and carries 
studs upon which are the gears, A^, B= and C^. The gear X^, is upon 



s-^i^ 




Fig. 171. Elevation Showing Reverse Crank and Gearing. 

the lay shaft and D^ is upon the shaft, U^. The connection of these 
shafts and gears with the lifting shaft is shown in the diagram of gear- 
ing (Fig. 164). 

When the rail is rising, the lifting shaft is driven through the gears, 
D^ and C", and gear, X^, is turned in the direction, indicated by the 
arrow in Fig. 171. But when the reverse shaft makes the half revolu- 
tion, the crank shifts the reverse arm, which turns about the shaft U', 
as a center, to the position shown in Fig. 172. This throws C^ out of 
contact with X', and A^ into contact with it, and X^ is driven by the 
gears, D^, B^ and A^, which results in changing the direction of the lay 
shaft, as may be seen by comparing the two drawings. 



COTTON SPINNING 



205 



The teeth of X^, O and A' are made pointed so that they may 
engage readily. This overcomes also, in a measure, the danger of 
breaking, always liable to occur with iu-\'olute teeth if the points come 
into contact. 

Tension gearing for fly frames is shown in Fig. 173 and, to make 
this drawing as simple as possible, all parts, which are not required 
in explaining the device, are 
omitted. Reference should also 
be made to Fig. 168. 

The cone rack, P, is driven 
from the reverse shaft, K^, by 
the gears, E^, F", G% H«, B', J* 
and Vi. The bevel, E^, is keyed 
to the reverse shaft but is free to 
slide in and out of gear with F". 

When the machine is start- 
ed, the shipper rod, K*, is moved 
in the direction of the arrow and 
the dog, L*, comes in contact with 
the stop-motion arm, P, which 
turns about the stud, M*. This 
moves the stop motion latch, 7l, 
so that the notch, N"', catches on 
the support. Hi, and holds the 
latch in place. 

The bevel, E% is formed with 
an annular groove in which is a fork, Z, pivoted to a stand at Z". 
The upright arm of the fork is connected with the stop motion latch 
by a rod, I. In starting the frarne, the movement of the latch draws 
the gear, E°, into contact with F^ This completes the train of gears 
so that the half revolution of the reverse shaft, which takes place at 
each end of the traverse, causes the cone belt to be moved to a differ- 
ent place on the cone. 

The gear, B^, is the tension gear, which is changed to give the 
correct distance that the cone belt must be moved, and, as this gear is a 
driver, the greater number of teeth it contains, the greater will be the 
distance that the cone belt is moved. 

When the attendant wishes to stop the machine, the shippei" rod 




. Elevation Showing Reverse 
Crank and Gearing. 



206 



COTTON SPINNING 



is moved in the opposite (llrection from that indicated by the arrow 
and the belt is siiifted onto the loose pulley. This movement does not 
disconnect the train of gears, between the reverse shaft and cone rack 
as the stop-motion latch is not moved. 

Full Bobbin Stop Motion. When the bobbin has reached its full 
diameter, it is stopped automatically, and while it is not necessary to 




Fig. l".?. Tension Gearing. 

wait for this stop motion to operate before dofBng, It acts as a safe- 
guard, for, if the frame is allowed to run too long, there is danger, of 
the builder jaws coming together, which often results in stripping the 
builder screw. There is also some difficulty in doffing, if the bobbin 
is too large. • 

This stop motion, which is shown in Figs. 174 and 175, and in the 



COTTON SPINNING 



207 



drawing of the reverse motion and builder Fig. 168, consists of three 
pieces, a bracket, D, Ufter, C, and cam, B. 

The bracket, which is fastened to the cone rack, P, by a screw, F, 
carries the Hfter, and the cam is fastened to tlie lifting shaft, A^, at a 
point directly under the end of the stop-motion latch, Z*, which pro- 
jects through the rectangular slot in the support, H^. 

As the lifting shaft revolves, the cam is brought into contact with 
the lifter, forcing it upward against the underside of the stop-motion 
latch and lifting the latch so that the notch, N ', in its underside, is clear 
of the support. 

The stop-motion spring, W^ is mounted upon the spring rod,M^ 
One end of the spring bears against the support and the other end 




Fig. 174. Full Bobbin Stop Motion. 

against a collar, P", which is fastened to the rod and which may be set 
to increase or decrease the tension upon the spring. The free end of 
the spring rod passes through a hole in the support, and the other 
end is connected to the stop-motion latch. 

When the notch in the latch is clear of the support, the spring rod 
pushes the latch in the direction, shown by the arrow and this move- 
ment is communicated to the shipper rod by the shipper arm, P. 

When the frame is to be dofl'ed, the attendant raises the bottom 
cone, B^, by turning the cone raise handle, W^, a half revolution. This 
leaves the cone belt free and the cone rack is moved back, for starting 
a new set of bobbins, by turning the hand wheel, S°. A collar on the 



COTTON SPINNING 



rack comes against a stop, which insures the belt starting in the same 
position, on the face of the cone, for each set. 

When the stop motion operates, the movement of the lever,Z', 
disconnects the tension gearing by shding E» out of contact with F'. 
This allows the cone belt to be wound back which cannot be done with 
these gears in contact, and as the builder screw is driven from the cone 
rack, the winding back of the rack opens tlie builder jaws. 

Before doffing, the frame is started with the bottom cone raised 
and a few inches of roving are delivered by the front roll to be used for 




Fig. 175. FuU BoDbm Stop Motion. 

twisting around the empty bobbins. The bobbins are driven from 
the bottom cone through the differential gearing" and, with the cone 
raised, they do not revolve, consequently, the roving is not wound. 

The power for driving the bobbins and the traverse of the rail is 
transmitted through the cone belt and, for this reason, there must be as 
little slip as possible to this belt. The bottom cone is iron and it is 
carried in a frame, FP, called the cone swing frame. It is hung from 
the shaft, Y^. The weight of the cone hangs upon the cone belt, D^, 
and keeps it tight. 

The connection, from the bottom cone to the gearing, is through ' 
the cone gear, C^, which has twenty-two teeth. This gear is some- 
times changed when the diameter of the empty bobbin is so small that 
the difference in the diameters of the cones, with the belt upon the large 
end of the top cone, is not sufficient to wind the roving. When this 
is the case, a cone gear of more teeth is put on the cone, which causes 



COTTON SPINNING 



209 



the bobbins to run at a greater speed. The cone belt is then shifted 
along the cones until the position of tlie belt is such tliat the roving 
"takes up" or winds correctly. 

The taper gear, F^ has from ele-.'en to foiu-teen teeth. This is a 
driven gear and the fewer teeth it has, the faster the builder jaws close. 
The end bearing, X"', for the top cone shaft, is open on the top so that 
the cone may lift, if the tops of the tee' come together, when the gap 
gear is thrown in. 

Back Stop Motion. Sometimes, a back stop motion is applied to 
the slubber, so the machine will stop when an end is out, but is not 
applied to any other fly frame. By many, a back stop motion is con- 




Pig. 176. Sei'tion of Fly Frame Showing Back Stop Motion. 

sidered unnecessary because if there is none, the attendant will watch 
for a broken end in the sliver, and will anticipate a can becoming empty 
and piece the sliver onto a full can, whereas, with a stop motion, he 
knows the machine will stop when an end i's out a«d he becomes in- 
attentive and allows the machine to stand idle too long before piecing 

lip- 
Fig. 176 shows a section of a slubber fly frame fitted with a back 
stop motion. The sliver, A, is lifted out of the cans by the carrier roll, 
QS and passes over the stop-'hiotion spoon, G", and between the three 
pairs of draft rolls to the flyer, G. 

Directly beneath the tail of each spoon is a finger L, mounted on 
the rocker shaft, T". Motion is given to the rocker shaft froni an 
eccentric, J, which runs loose upon the top cone shaft, XS but is driven 
from the top cone shaft by a train of gears. By this means the eccen- 
Iric is given a much slower speed than the cone shaft. 

The carrier roll, QS is driven from the end of the back roll by the 



210 



COTTON SPINNING 



sprocket chain, D^ and the sprocket wheels, L- and N. The connec- 
tion between the rocker shaft and eccentric is through the eccentric 
arm, S, rocker, T, Hnk, P, and, arm, R. 

The rocker is hung in the bottcvn. of a slot, Y, in the»stand, V, and 
the pin, M, upon which the rocker 
is hung, projects into a hole In the 
lever, X, and in its normal position, 
is kept from rising by the spring, 
W^ The arm, R, is keyed to the 
rocker shaft which is given a re- 
ciprocal motion by the revolutions 
of the eccentric. 

The stop-motion spoons are 
mounted in stands and are so bal- 
anced that the friction of the sliver, 




Pig. 177. Back Stop Motion. 

in passing over them, holds the 
tails clear of the path of the fin- 
ger, L. 

When the machine is started 
the spring rod, K, which moves 
with the shipper rod, slides 
along until a slot cut in its upper 
surface is beneath one end of 
the lever, X . When this happens, 
X, which is pivoted at Z, drops 
into the slot and holds the rod 
stationary until X is lifted out of 
the slot. 

If a sliver breaks or runs out, the spoon assumes a vertical posi- 
tion, immediately, and the tail is brought into the path of the finger 
which arrests the movements of the rocker shaft. As soon as this 
occurs, the fulcrum of the rocker, T, is transferred from the pin, M, 




Pig. 178. Back Stop Motion. 



COTTON SPINNING 



211 



ill the slot of the stand, to the pin, W", in the lower end of the link, P. 
The spring, W, yields and allows the eccentric to lift the pin, M, and 
with it the lever, X, withdrawing X from the slot in the spring rod, 
which is released and the belt is shipped. 

Figs. 177 and 178 show the positions of the levei-s when the ma- 
chine is running and when the stop motion operates. A weight, F, 
mounted upon a rod, may be moved in or out as a counterbalance for 
the spoon G- to accommodate a heavy or light sliver. 

The roll stand, for carrying the steel fluted rolls, is shown in Fig. 




irn. EoU stand. 



179. This stand consists of four parts: the main piece, A, the two 
slides or bearings, B and C, for the middle and back rolls, and the 
bracket, D, upon which the top roll clearer is hinged. The bearing 
for the front roll is usually lined with bronze as the wear on the front 
roll's bearing is much greater than upon the bearings for the other rolls. 
The slides are screwed to the main part of the stand and are ar- 



212 



COTTON SPINNING 



ranged so that they may be adjusted to suit the various lengths of 
staple. The slide for the back roll is slotted for a bearing for the 
roving traverse rod, L, and for the rod, O, upon which the wires, E, 
supporting the cap bar nebs F, G, and H, are fastened. The front 
neb, F, is made with projections above and below. The upper one 
serves as a stop for the top clearer and the lower one as a support for 
holding the nebs on center with the axis of the top rolls. A detached 
view of the cap bar is shown in Fig. 180. 

The wires, E, are flattened, slightly, upon the upper surface, 
where the screws bear, to hold the nebs in place, which insures their 
standing perfectly true with the top rolls. 

The spaces in the nebs into which the gudgeons of the top rolls 

TmnnjM_n — q~T| 
^ D : n Q a ©I 



PLAN 




END VIEW SIDE VIEW 

Fig. 180. Cap Bar. 

project, are made wide enough to allow perfect freedom to the top rolls 
but with not enough play to allow them to get out of line with the steel 
rolls. 

The top rolls, for the front line, are usually shell rolls and for the 
middle and back lines, solid rolls. The top roll clearer is shown in 
Fig. 179 and is similar to the common clearer used upon the drawing 
frame. A flat board, K, is faced on the underside with clearer cloth, 
supported by wires. The boardj which is carried in a frame, R, is 
hinged upon the rod, S, and is hung so that it adjusts itself to the posi- 
tion of the top rolls. The under clearer, N, which is seldom used upon 
anything but the slubber fly frame, is held in place by straps which 
have a weight, P, suspended from the end. 

Sometimes, self-weighted top rolls are used on fly frames intended 
for working long stock and for fine counts of yarn. A roll stand, with 



COTTON SPINNING 



213 



top rolls of this kind, is shown in Fig. 181. The front and back steel 
rolls are one and one-quarter inches in diameter and the middle roll is 
one and one-eighth inches in diameter. The front top roll is the usual 
shell roll, weighed in the ordinary way by a hook, A, stirrup, B, and 
weight, C. 

The middle top roll usually is made of thin, brass tubing, one and 




Fig. 181. Roll Stana lor Self- Weighted Top Rolls. 

one-eighth inches in diameter, filled with lead to give it additional 
weight, and sometimes of cast iron. The gudgeons, for this roll, are 
of iron wire put through the lead. 



214 



COTTON SPINNING 



The back top roll is made of cast iron, two inches to two and one- 
half inches in diameter. Both of the top rolls are sometimes covered 
with leather. 

The top clearers for self-weighted rolls are usually rotary, either 
conical or straight. They are shown in Fig. 182. 

The conical clearer roll is made of wood, covered with clearer 



Fig. 182. Top Clearer Rolls. 

cloth. The large end bears upon all of the top rolls and the small end 
bears upon the middle and front rolls only. As the front roll runs at a 
much greater speed than the middle and back rolls, the clearer must 
partake of an intermediate speed to collect the loose fibers. Vv^hen 
the frame is in operation, the conical shape of the clearer causes it to 
travel along the rolls slowly. Upon reaching the end of the frame, it is 




ROU_ 
BOSS 



la UONG __ 
ROLL 6" SPACE 

Single and Double Boss KoUs. 



reversed by the attendant and it works back to the other end. A 
straight roll is sometimes used with the conical roll, placed ahead and 
pushed along by it. 

When straight clearer rolls are used, they are made of a diameter 
to bear upon all of the top rolls. They are made in short lengths, two 
for each roll stand. 

Fluted Rolls. The fluted rolls, for slubbers and intermediate fly 
frames, are made "single boss." For fly frames of five and a quarter 
and six inch space, they are made either "single boss" or "double 



COTTON SPINNLNG 



215 



boss", but for all fly frames under five and a quarter inch space they 
are made "double boss" only. 

The terms "single boss" and "double boss" mean the number of 
ends of roving to each fluted boss of the roll. On a slubber, nine and 
one-half inch space, the rolls are nineteen inches long, vi^hich is the 
distance between the centers of the roll stands. There are four bosses 




Fig. 184. Weighting for Top Rolls. 

and four spindles in this length and one end of roving for each boss 
or single boss. 

On a fly frame, four and one-half inch space, the length of the 
roll is eighteen inches. There are eight spindles in this distance, 
which is too short to allow eight separate bosses and still have room 
for the weight stirrups and saddles, which must hang between every 
two bosses. To provide for this, the rolls are made with bosses long 
enough to permit of two ends of roving, side by side, or "double boss." 

Fig. 183 shows two steel fluted rolls for a six inch space fly frame 



216 



COTTON SPINNING 



and the leather covered top rolls for each roll. The upper fluted roll 
is double boss and is twenty-four inches long and the lower one is 
single boss and is eighteen inches long. There are four bosses and 
eight ends for the double boss and six bosses and six ends for the single 
boss. The roving is represented by the lines, R, and the weight is 
hung between the bosses at AV. There is one weight for four ends on 
the double boss and one weight for two ends on the single boss. The 
double boss rolls are seldom, if ever, used on any space more than six 
inches, as the length of the boss would be so great that the weights 
would have a tendency to spring the steel rolls enough to cause the top 
rolls to bear unevenly. 

The usual method of weighting the top draft roll is shown in 
Figure 184. For the front roll a separate weight is used which is hung 
from a stirrup, S, and hook, T. For the middle and back rolls, the 
weight -is divided. The stirrup Is hung from a saddle, F, by a hook 
T, and the saddle bears upon the middle and back top rolls. 

For the slubbers, eight and one-half inch space and over, weights 
are usually eighteen pounds. For intermediate frames, they are 
seventeen pounds and for fine frames, seventeen pounds. For single 
boss rolls, six inch space, they are twelve pounds. For fine frames, five 
and one-quarter inch space or under, and all jack frames, the weights 
are fifteen pounds. Sometimes a separate weight is used for each roll. 
The weights may then be: 



Slubber 
Intermediate 
Fine and Jack - 
Double Boss Fine Frame 


Front Roll 


Middle Roll 


Back Roll 


18 

14 
10 

18 


14 
10 

8 
14 


10 

8 
6 

12 



Fly frames are built both right and left hand. A frame is said to 
be right hand, when, in standing on the front or spindle side and facing 
the machine, the pulley is on the right hand end. 

By the gauge or space of a fly frame is meant the distance between 
the centers of two adjoining spindles in the same row. The slubbers 
are build eight and one-half inch, nine inch, nine and one-half inch, 
and ten inch space. Intermediates are built seven incJi, and seven 
and one-half inch space. Fine frames are built five and one-quarter 



COTTON SPINNING 



217 



inch and six inch space; and jack frames, three and three-quarters 
inch, four and one-quarter inch, and four and one-half inchspace. 



Frame 


Space 


Size of 
Bobbin 


Speed of 
Flyer 


No. of 
Spindle 
per Roll 


Weight of 

Cotton on 

Full 

Bobbin 


Length of 
BoU 


Traverse 
of Frame 


Blubber 


10" 


6" X 12" 


625 


4 


44 oz. 


20" 


12" 


Slubber 


%%" 


5%' xll" 


700 


4 


32 oz. 


19" 


11" 


Blubber 


9" 


5" X 10" 


750; 


4 


24 oz. 


18" 


10" 


Slubber 


8X" 


4%" X 9" 


800 


4 


18 oz. 


17" 


9" 


Intermediate 


7M" 


b" X 10" 


825 


6 


24 oz. 


22X" 


10" 


Intermediate 


7" 


4I2" X 9" 


950 


6 


18 oz. 


21" 


9" 


Fine 


6" 

5>i" 


4" X 8" 


1100 


8 


14 oz. 


24" 


8" 


Fine 


a>^"' X 8" 


1250 


8 


12 oz. 


21" 


8" 


Fine 


5>i" 


;5K'' X 7" 


1250 


8 


10 oz. 


21" 


7" 


Jack 
Jack 


4X" 


3" X 6" 


1400 


8 


7 oz. 


18", 


6" 


4M" 


2X" X 5" 


1600 


8 


4oz. 


17" 


5" 


Jack 


3%" 


2|"x4X" 


1800 


12 


3 oz. 


22X" 


A%" 



The fluted rolls for fly frames are made of the diameters shown 
in Fig. 185. Those most commonly used for medium staple cotton 
are shown in the upper view in the drawing. For Egyptian and Sea 
Island cotton, the rolls are usually larger and of the diameters shown 
in the middle drawing. For self-weighted top rolls, the usual diame- 
ters are shown in the lower drawing. The diameter of the back top 
roll is made from two to two and one-half inches to suit the weights of 
the sliver. 'A heavy sliver and a long draft recjuire the largest sized 
roll. 

Fig. 186 shows the sizes and dimensions of fly frame bobbins. 
The dimensions vary but slightly for the different makes of fly frames. 
The bottom of the bobbin is made with both four and six notches for 
the dog or bobbin driver. The bobbins shown in the diagram have 
six notches. To prevent splitting, the bottoms are either brass bound 
or wired. 

It is very necessary that the diameter of the holes in the bobbins 
shall be exact, and to .avoid any mistakes, most mills have a standard 
plug for each sized bobbin used, made similarly to the one shown in the 
upper right hand corner of the drawing. This plug is made the small 
end for the spindle hole, the large end for the bolster gear and the 



218 



COTTON SPINNING 



intermediate for the bolster hole. The diameter of the spindle hole 
is about one sixty-fourth of an inch greater than the diameter of the 
spindle; the hole in the bottom, of the bobbin is one thirty-second of 
an inch larger in diameter than the bobbin gear, and the bolster hole 
Is about one-sixteenth of an inch larger in diameter than the bolster. 




,^-.+- 




h-ire'-4— if-J 

FINEAND JACK 



MEDIUM STAPLE 





SLUBBER AND 

INTERMEDIATE 



LONG STAPLE 




FINEAND JACK 




INTERMEDIATES 



FINEAND JACK 
SELF WEIGHTED ROLLS 

Fig. 18d! Sizes of Steel Fluted Rolls. 

To find the length of a fly frame: Multiply. one half the number 
of spindles by the space in inches and add 38 inches. 

The power required to drive fly frame spindles is as follows : 
Slubbers 35 to 45 spindles per H. P. 

Intermediates 65 to 75 '' " '' 

Fine and Jack frames 95 to 105 " '' 

Calculations. The general diagram of fly frame gearing, given 



360 



COTTON SPINNING 219 



in Fig. 164, shows all of the gears necessary in calculations, but, to 
avoid confusion, the draft gearing is shown separately in Fig. 187 and 
the twist gearing in Fig. 188. 

Rule 1. To find the draft of the fly frame: Multiply together 
the driven gears and the diameter of the front roll and divide the prod- 
uct by the product of the driving gears multiplied together with the 
diameter of the back roll. (The driven gears are E' and O' and the 
driving gears are M^ and D'.) The front roll is 1^ inches in diame- 
ter and the back roll is 1 inch in diameter. 

T. , 100X56X9 .nn 

t/xample: = o.OO 

^ 37X34X8 

Rule 2. To find the draft -factor: Proceed as in the previous 
rule, but omit the draft change gear D'. , 

17 , 100X56X9 _„.-,^ 

lliXample: = 1/0.2/ 

^ 37X8 

Rule 3. To find the draft : Divide the factor by the number of 

teeth in the draft gear. 

170 27 
Example: ■ ^'^ ' = 5.00 

34 

Rule 4. To find the draft gear: Divide the factor by the draft. 
Example: = 34 

The draft between the back roll and the middle roll is very slight 
and is only the dift'erence of one tooth in the gears, as will be seen by 
referring to the diagram. On the back roll is a gear of 21 teeth and on 
the middle roll is a gear of 20 teeth. 

Sometimes the crown gear is changed, as well as the draft gear, 
when a very fine adjustment in the draft is needed, and a difference of 
one tooth in the draft gears makes too great a change in the draft. 

The definition of the word twist, as used in reference to yarn and 
roving, is the number of turns that the spindles or flyers make to each 
inch of roving that is delivered by the front roll. If the spindles make 
100 revolutions and the front roll delivers 40 inches of roving, the 
twist will be 2.5 per inch. 100 -=- 40 = 2.5. 

Rule 5. To find the twist per inch : Multiply together the driven 
gears and divide the product by the product of the driving gears multi- 



220 



COTTON SPINNING 




[Oj 






COTTON SPINNING 221 

plied together with the circumference of the front roU. Assuming the 
twist gear to be a driving gear, tlie driven gears are L', N^, G^, and T'. 
The driving gears are K^, A^, H^, and L', and the circumference of the 
li inch front roll is 3. 5343 inches. 

^ , ■ 164X60X60X46 

lixample: ^ 



97X40X40X22X3.5343 

Rule 6. To find the twist factor: Proceed as in the previous 

rule but omit the twist gear. 

^ , ' 164X60X60X46 „„ „. 

Kxample: = 90.02 

^ 97X40X22X3.5343 

Rule 7. To find the twist: Divide the twist factor by the num- 
ber of teeth in the twist gear. 

V ^ 90-02 oori 
hxample: = 2.25 

^ 40 

Rule 8. To find the number of teeth in the twist gear: Divide 

the factor by the twist per inch. 

17 1 90.02 .„ 

Example: = 40 

^ 2.25 

The standard twist for roving is the square root of the hank multi- 
plied by 1.2, and is expressed thus 1' Hank X 1.2 

This multiplier, is the one that is used by most machinery builders 
in the construction of twist tables and is correct for cotton of ordinary 
length staple, but for Sea Island, Egyptian and other long staple 
cottons, the multiplier may be as low as .8, and fdr very short staple as 
high as 1.5. 

All that is required is sufficient twist to hold the roving together, 
as too much twist destroys the effectiveness of the drawing operation 
in the successive processes. 

When there is very little twist put into the roving, the production 
of the machine is increased as the speed of the spindles is constant and 
the front roll must run faster to give less twist. 

There are several things to be considered in figuring the produc- 
tion of the fly frame; revolutions of spindle, hank roving, twist per 
inch, weight of cotton upon full bobbin and time lost piecing-up and 
doffing. With these factors known, we can find the approximate 
production. 

First, it is necessary to find the time required to sjiin a set of 



COTTON SPINNING 



bobbins, then the number of sets jjer day, and finally the production 
per spindle in a day of ten hours. 

Rule 9. To find the time required in spinning a set of bobbins 
on 3^ hank roving: Multiply together the number of yards in one 
hand (840), the number of inches per yard (36), the twist per inch 
(2.25), the number of roving (3.5), and the number of ounces of cotton 
upon a full bobbin (10), and divide this product by the number of 
revolutions of the spindles per minute (1250) multiplied bv the number 
of ounces in one pound (16). 

840X36X2.25X3.5X10 



Example : 



= 119.07 



1250X16 

Rule 10. To find the number of sets of bobbins spun in ten 
hours: Multiply the minutes per hour (60) by the number of hours 



DRAFT GEAR 16 TO 50 TEETH. 




FRONT ROLL l^'oiA. 



rig. 187. Diagram of Draft Geari 



run per day (10), less 10%, and divide this product by the number of 
minutes occupied in spinning one set plus the number of minutes 
required to doff a set (15). 

60X9 



Example : 



4.02 



119.07+15 

Rule 1 1 . To find the production in pounds of a day of ten hours : 
^Multiply together the number of sets spun in ten hours (4.02), by the 
number of grains of cotton on a full bobbin (10 oz = 4375 Grains) 



COTTON SPINNING 



223 



and divide the product by the number of grains in one pound (7000) 
4.02X4375 



Example : 



7000 



2.51 



The time required to doff a machine will vary from ten to twenty- 
minutes according to the number of spindles in the frame and the skill 




TOP COHE. SHAFT 
38 



1 H4 

^^^TWISTGEAR 
1 \ 16 TO 54- TTH 

A3 




SPINDLE SHAFT 

Fig. 188. Diagram of Twist Gearing. 

of the attendant. The time, lost in piecing broken ends and cleaning 
varies from 3 per cent on very fine work to as high as 25 per cent on 
slubber roving. 

The number of teeth in the tension and lay gears cannot be figured 
with absolute certainty as the character of the stock, the amount of 
twist in the roving and atmospheric conditions affect the winding of 
the roving. 



22.4 COTTON SPINNING 

When the i-oving is hard twisted, it is smaller in diameter than 
when soft twisted and does not fill the bobbin as rapidly. This con- 
dition demands a tension gear with fewer teeth so the belt will not be 
shifted so far along the cones or the speed of the spindle be reduced 
to such an extent as to wind slack roving. The tension gear is a driver 
and the greater number of teeth it contains the more the speed of the 
bobbin is reduced at each shift of the cone belt. 

The lay gear is also a driver, and, with hard twisted roving, the 
bobbin should have more coils per inch to be wound correctly. To 
accomplish this, the rail must be run slower, which requires a smaller 
number of teeth in the lay gear. 

If. the rail is not fast enough, the coils of roving will be crowded 
and overlap each other and a very uneven bobbin will be the result. 
If the roving winds properly at the beginning of a set, but gets too soft 
towards the finish, it is evident that a smaller tension gear is needed so 
that the bobbin will run faster. If, on the other hand, the bobbin 
becomes too hard, and the roving pulls apart towards the end of a set, 
it indicates that a larger tension gear is needed to reduce the speed of 
the bobbin. 

On a particularly damp day, the cotton fibers are heavy, and lie 
closely together, which makes the roving smaller in diameter and in 
consequence the bobbins do not fill so rapidly. This causes the roving 
to drag and not take-up, which necessitates a tension gear of one, and 
sometimes two teeth less, so that the speed of the bobbin shall not 
decrease so rapidly. 

In the practical operation of a mill, when starting up a fly frame 
to make a certain number of roving, the table of change gears is usually 
consulted for the correct tension and lay gears, and while two frames 
may not start up with gears exactly alike, a change of one or two teeth 
is most always sufficient to produce satisfactory results. 

If no table of gearing is available, the' following rules will be 
found useful. 

Rule 12. To find the tension gear to make 6 hank roving: 
(Tension gear on frame 41 teeth. Roving being spun, 3.5 hank.) 
Find the square root of the present tension gear, squared, multiplied 
by .the present hank, and divide this sum by the required hank. 

Example: i/ 4PX3.5 ^ ^^M 



COTTON SPINNING 225 

Rule 13. To find the lay gear to make 6 hank roving: (Lay 
gear on frame, 35 teeth. Hank roving being spun 3.5.) Find the 
square root of the present lay gear, squared, multiplied by the present 
hank, and divide this sum by the required hank. 



Example: • ^^^!^^ = 27.31 

^ 6 

Rule 14. To find the twist gear for 6 hank roving: (Twist gear 
for 3.5 hank, 40 teeth.) Find the square root of the present twist gear 
squared, multiplied by present hank, and divide this sum by the 
required hank. 



Example: ,. l/ 40^X3.5 ^ g^^^ 

Rule 15. To find draft gear: (Draft gear, 34 teeth.) Multiply 
the present hank by the present draft gear and divide this product by 
the required hank 

Example: 3.5X34 ^ 23. le 




E te: 



COTTON SPINNING 

PART V 



SPINNING 



In the final process of forming the cotton into yarn, there are 
two wholly different types of machines used, the ring frame and the 
mule. 

The ring frame is used more extensively than the mule, owing to 
its simplicity and the cost of operating being less. While the ring 
frame is not adapted for spinning as fine numbers or as soft twisted 
yarns as the mule, wherever ring-spun yarn can be used with satis- 
factory results, the ring frame is generally used. 
RING SPINNING 

The placing of ring frames requires careful consideration. 
There are two common arrangements. In a mill of a width of one 
hundred feet or less, the frames should be placed as shown in Fig. 189. 
This drawing shows a room seventy-five feet wide with two lines of 
columns, making three spans, each about twenty-five feet wide. 
Each span will accommodate four lines of ring frames with the proper 
alleys, which should be from twenty-eight inches to thirty-six inches 
wide. 

There is one main line of shafting from which are driven the 
countershafts. The frames are offset so that two can be driven from 
a pulley which has a center flange. Each countershaft carries two 
pulleys for driving four frames. The head or pulley ends of the 
frames are about twelve inches apart, which is as close as they can be 
placed to give ample room for removing the driving pulleys when 
necessary. 

When the room is intended for spinning only, the main line is 
placed so that it will come between two rows of ring frames, to be 
best adapted for driving. 

When a mill is of sufficient width, the ring frames may be placed 
crosswise of the room as in Fig. 190. This drawing shows a room 



328 



COTTON SPINNING 



about one hundred twenty-five feet wide with four rows of columns. 
There are four ring frames in eacli line, across the room, and a wide 
alley in the center, extending the length of the room, and also alleys 
along the side walls. The machines are arranged in pairs with the 
pulley ends toward each other for convenience in driving. 




There are but two lines of shafting, which extend lengthwise 
of the room at right angles to the machines, and upon these main 
lines are the pulleys, each pair of frames being driven from one pulley 
by the same belt. 

A plan and an elevation of a drive of this description are shown 



COTTON SPINNING 



229 




230 



COTTON SPINNING 



in Fig. 191. The belt. A, drives downward from the pulley, B, on 
the line, C, and around the pulley, D, on the frame at the left hand, 
then upward over the carrier pulleys, E and F, downward around the 




ELEVATION OF DRIVE: 

Fig. 191. Pulleys lor Drawing Frames Placed at Right Angles to Main Line. 

pulley, G, on the frame at the right hand, then up and around the 
pulley, B. 

This method of driving two frames from one pulley makes a 
verv neat and simple drive and saves shafting and belting compared 



272 



COTTON SPINNING 



231 




Fig. 193. Sectional Elevation of Ring Frame, 



873 



232 



COTTON SPINNING 



to the arrangement shown in Fig. 189, but the room should be wide 
enough to place four frames across the room so that an operative 
can tend at least eight sides. 

A sectional elevation of a ring frame is shown in Fig. 192. The 
various parts of the machine may be referred to briefly as the creel, 
C, for supporting the bobbins of roving, the roll stands, F", carrying 
the steel fluted roll, the top rolls, cap bars, trumpet rod, clearers, 
weights, saddles, etc., thread board, G\ with the thread guide or 
"pig tail", P, roller beam, H', for supporting the roll stands and 




n 



^ 



Fig. 193. Plan of Ci'eel for Double Koving. 



thread board, the ladder or spindle rail, I, spindle, N, ring rail, E^ 
rings, L', drum, F', supports, P, creel rod, 0\ cross shafts, M', 
lifting rods, C^ separators, NS adjustable feet, J-, and drum box, W. 
The roving. A, from the top row of bobbins, is drawn over the 
rod, A^ and down to the trumpet, B, while the ends from the lower 
bobbins draw directly to the trumpet. Both ends pass through the 
same trumpet, as one end, then between the draft rolls, D, E and F, 
and down through the thread guide, J^ to the ring traveler, H, anrl 
are wound finally upon the bobbin, O. 



274 



COTTON SPINNING 



233 



The drum, F', extends the whole length of the frame, and upon 
one end of it are the driving pulleys. The spindles are driven from 
the drum by the bands, B", one for each spindle. 

The ring rails are fastened to the top of the lifting rod, by 
which they are traversed up and down for winding the yarn evenly 
upon the bobbin. 

Creels. The Creels are built one or two stories high and for 
single or double roving. If for single roving, there is only one bobbin 




Pig. 194. Elevation Showing Roll Stand and Weighting. 

for each spindle and the creel is one story, usually. For double 
roving, there are two bobbins or ends for each spindle and the creel 
is two storied. 

A plan of a creel for a two and three-cjuarter inch spaced ring 
frame, for double roving with bobbins three and one-half inches 



234 



COTTON SPINNING 



in diameter, is shown in Fig. 193 and an elevation is shown in Fig, 192. 
The creel consists of bottom, middle and top boards. The top board 
serves for a shelf upon which full bobbins can be placed. The 
skewers, A\ for holding the bobbins, A, rest in porcelain steps which 




WEIGHT 
2i" POUNDS 



Fig. 195. Diagram of Weighting. 

are flush with the boards, forming the creel. The porcelain offers 
little resistance to the rotation of the bobbins. 

The bobbins in the upper tier are shown by full lines and those 
in the bottom tier by dotted lines. They are so spaced that the back 
row can be removed without disturbing the front ones, a point which 



COTTON SPINNING 235 

will be appreciated in a frame of tliis space and sized creel bobbins. 

Roll Stands and Weighting. xVn elevation of a common roll is 
shown in Fig. 194. The stand consists of a main piece, F^, which 
carries the front steel fluted roll, F, and a slide, D', in which are the 
bearings for the middle roll, E, and the back roll, D. The slide is 
adjustable so that the middle roll may be set to the front roll with 
respect to the length of the cotton staple. 

The roving rod, R, carries the brass trumpets, B, through which 
the roving is drawn, and rests in a slot just behind the back rolls. 
It is traversed a distance, a little short of the length of the fluted 
portion of the steel roll, so that the wear will not come on the same 
part of the boss at all times. 

The cap bars, U, for holding the top rolls in place, are pivoted 
in a slot in the extreme back end of the roll stand slide. 

The scavenger, or waste roll, G, upon which the yarn collects 
when an end breaks, thus preventing a roller lap, is a wooden roll 
covered with denim or light weight flannel. In each end of the roll 
are wire gudgeons which rest in open hearings in the scavenger roll 
weights, J. The weights are pivoted at M and are balanced so that 
the roll is held, lightly, against the steel front roll. 

Sometimes, a spring is used in place of the welgnts for holding 
the scavenger roll, as shown in Fig. 192, but this is not as satisfactory 
as it is apt to break. 

The top rolls are both lever-weighted and self-weighted. In the 
drawing, a system of lever-weighting is shown by which all the rolls 
receive pressure from one weight. 

There are two saddles used ; front saddle, !>, and back saddle, 
S. The back saddle rests upon the middle and back top rolls and the 
front saddle upon the front top roll and the back saddle. The 
weight, X^, is hung from the lever, V, by a weight hook. The fulcrum 
of the lever is at the lever screw, W, and the stirrup, Y, serves to 
communicate the pressure from the weight to the front saddle. For 
single boss rolls, the weight is from two to three pounds and for 
double boss rolls about six pounds. 

A diagram for use in figuring the distribution of weight on the 
dift'erent rolls is shown in Fig. 195. 



236 COTTON SPINNING 

Front Roll A 

Middle Roll B 

Back Roll C 

Front Saddle D 

Back Saddle E 

Fulcrum ■ F 

Power P 

Weight AV 

To find the weight in pounds upon the front saddle: Multiply 

the weight (2.5 pounds) by the distance, F-AV, and divide by the 

distance, F-P. 

T? 1 2.5X3.5 _. 
iiixample: ; = 1/.5 

To find the weight in pounds upon the front roll: INIultiply the 

weight upon the front saddle (17.5 pounds) by the distance, E-D, 

and divide by the distance, E-A. 

„ 1 17.5 X 1.25 ^.^. 

Example: --— = 12.5 

1.75 

To find the weight in pounds upon the back saddle: Subtract 
the weight upon the front roll from the weight upon the front saddle 

Example: 17.5 — 12.5 = 5 

To find the weight in pounds upon the back roll : Multiply the 
weight upon the back saddle by the distance, E-C, and divide by the 
distance, B-C. 

Example: — --^ — = 3 

To find the weight in pounds upon the middle roll: Subtract 
the weight upon the back roll from the weight upon the back saddle. 

Example: 5—8 = 2 

Sometimes, it is desired to run the frame with no weight upon 
the middle roll. Then, the saddle is pushed back until the curved 
part, X, comes over the neck of the back roll arbor. This removes 
the flat part of the saddle from the middle roll and the weight is borne 
by the front and back rolls. 

Roll stands are made with the rolls inclined from a horizontal 
line at various angles from twenty-five to thirty-five degrees. For 
spinning warp and other hard twisted yarns, the twenty-five degree 
pitched stand, shown in Fig. 196, is largely used. . For ring frames 
to be used for spinning both warp and filling yarn, the thirty degree 
pitched stand, shown in Fig. 197, is sometimes used. While for 



COTTON SPINNING 



237 




25 "ROLL STAND 



filling yarn and any soft twisted yarn, the thirty-five degree pitched 

stand, shown in Fig. 198, is often used. 

The i-eason for inclining the rolls is very simple. As the yarn 

leaves the bite of the front roll, it is important that it shall receive 

twist at once, as the high speed that the spindles run and the tension 

upon the yarn due to drawing the 

traveler around the ring, tend to brefak 

the yarn. If the yarn, after leaving 

the bite of the roll, is caused to draw 

around a portion of its circumference, 

the twist will not readily pass this point 

of contact and the yarn, between this 

point of contact and the bite of the 

roll, receives little or no twist. The 

roll stands, therefore, are i n c 1 i la e d 

enough to allow the twist to run nearly 

to the bite of the front roll. This is 

particularly necessary when spinning 

filling yarn, which has less twist than warp yarn, and not only are 

the stands inclined at a great angle, but sometimes, the front roll is 

set nearer over the spindles so that the yarn shall draw more nearly 
in a straight line from the front roll to 
the traveler. 

A roll stand of this type is shown 
in Fig. 199. The center of the spindle 
is about four and one-quarter inches 
from the face of the roller beam, and 
the center of the front roll is about 
midway of this space. 

Self-Weighted Top Rolls. Ring 
frames, for spinning long staple cot- 
ton, are frequently provided with self- 
weighted top rolls for the middle and 
back lines. A frame with rolls of this 
kind is shown in sectional elevation in 
Fig. 200. 
The front top roll, B, which is a shell roll one and three-eighths 

inches in diameter, is weighted by a weight, G, which extends from 




30° ROLL STAND 



238 



COTTON SPINNING 




ROLL STAND 



Filling Roll Stand, 
85° Pitc-h. 



side to side of the frame and is connected to the top rolls by hooks, F, 

and stirrups, E. Holes are drilled in the roller beams to allow the 

hooks to connect with the stirrups. The hook shaped projection 
on the top of the stirrups is to allow 
the operative to lift the weight clear of 
the top roll, when necessary, and the 
round eye, formed on the top of the 
hook, prevents the weight from drop- 
ping down upon the drum when the 
top roll is removed, as the eye is larger 
in diameter than the hole in the roller 
beam and can not pull thi'ough. 

The top roll for the back line is 
one and three-quarters inches in diam- 
eter and for the middle line is tliree- 
quarters of an inch in diameter. The 
rolls are made, of cast iron and are not 
covered with leather, a saving in repairs. 
The top clearer is conical and is the same as those used on fly 

frames with self-weighted top rolls, as shown and described in a 

previous chapter. 

Sometimes, a double cone 

clearer is used with a device at each 

end of the frame that tips the clearer, 

automatically, when it reaches the 

end, allowing it to work back. 

In addition to the usual front 

scavenger roll, a second roll is 

sometimes used which bears against 

the underside of the middle and back 

steel rolls. It is one inch in diameter, 

covered with denim, and supported 

by springs held in sockets. The ar- 
rangement is such as to allow the rolls 

to be easily detached for cleaning. 

The middle and back rolls are carried by the same slide and 

are set about one and three-fourths inches between centers. The 

adjustment is between the front and middle rolls. 




30° ROLL STAND 



.199. Roll Stand. 30° Pitch, for 
Overhangiug Front Rolls. 



COTTON SPINNING 



239 




Fig. 200. Sectional Elevation of King Frame with Self- Weighted Top Rolls. 



240 COTTON SPINNING 

In setting a frame with self- weighted top rolls, it is the practice 
to "set on the staple," which means to make the distance, between 
the centers of the front and middle rolls a trifle less (one-sixteenth 
to one-eighth of an inch) than the length of the cotton staple. This 
is just opposite to the method of setting weighted rolls, which are set 
from one-sixteenth to one-eighth more on centers than the length 
of the staple. 

It is frequently argued that no great range in counts can be spun 
with self-weighted rolls, as the weight of a roll, correct for spinning 
lO's yarn is not right for 30's. This is, however, a mistake as from 
lO's to SO's can be spun with rolls of the sizes mentioned. 

Thread Boards. The thread boards for supporting the thread 
guides are made of wood or metal. Figures 192 and 200 show a 
common wooden thread board, G', consisting of a dofhng strip, which 
is secured to the roller beam by hinged brackets, and blocks for 
holding the thread guides, which are hinged, to the thread board. 
The thread guide is made with various shaped eyes and is screwed 
into the block. 

The metallic thread board is made of thin sheet metal, nickel 
plated and secured to the roller beam similarly to the wooden one. 

Metallic boards are considered to be an improvement over 
wooden ones, as there is an adjustment for the thread guide in all 
directions in a horizontal plane, and the eye of the guide may be very 
easily set in the correct position over the spindle. With the wooden 
thread board, the eye can be adjusted only by screwing it in or out of 
the block, and for any side movement, the only way is to bend the 
guide to meet the spindle. This is apt to loosen the guide and cause 
it to work out. 

A large per cent of broken ends is caused by faulty setting of the 
thread guides, a point which should not be overlooked. In setting 
the guide, it is customary to put a round, wooden piece called a "set" 
on the spindle. This is made with a pin in the top. The length of 
the set is such as to bring the pin up just under the thread guide. 
The guide is then set so that the thread will draw from the back side 
of the eye to the center of the spindle. 

Spindles. A type of spindle, commonly used on modern ring 
frames, is shown in Fig. 201. It consists of a base, bolster, step, 
spindle blade, whirl and cup. 



COTTON SPINNING 



241 



The whirl is driven on to the spindle, and the cup, which helps 
center and rotate the bobbin, is forced on to the sleeve of the whirl. 
The lower part of the bolster is covered with packing, tied with a 
fine string. This gives greater steadiness to the running of the 
spindle and better wearing qualities. 

The step is made of hardened steel, has a flat top, and is screwed 
into the bottom of the bolster. 

The base is made with an upward projecting nose, or oil tube, 



i 




-BOLSTER. 



-PACKING. 




3ASB 



■^STEP. 



Fig. 201. Spindle Parts. 



S, the cover, C, of which forms a lock to prevent pulling the spindle 
out of the bolster when doffing. The stem of the bolster is threaded 
to receive a nut for securing the base to the spindle rail. 

The cups are usually of brass and are made several sizes to suit 
the different sized bobbins. They are called warp cups and 
filling cups. Many prefer to have the cups all one size, particularly 



242 



COTTON SPINNING 



when frames are to be run for both warp and fiUing, so that the bobbins 
will be interchangeable. 

Fig. 202 shows a spindle and bolster assembled. 
Separators. Separators are usually applied to frames for spin- 
ning warp yarn and, sometimes, to those for filling yarn, as the high 
speed of the spindles, and the long traverse of modern 
frames, cause the ends to whip and break down. 

The separator blades, N"*, (Fig. 192) are thin, steel 
plates, of a size to suit the length of traverse, and are 
mounted upon light rods which extend ' parallelly with 
the ring rails. They are connected with the traverse 
motion from the cross shaft arm, M^, by the rods, L^, 
so they rise and fall with the ring rail, and are arranged 
so that they can be tipped back out of the way while 
doffing. The blades are placed midway of the spaces 
between the center of the spindles, and the ballooning 
yarns are kept from whipping together 

This ballooning is very apparent on warp frames, 
when the rail is at the bottom of the traverse, as there 
is considerable length of yarn between the thread guide 
and the traveler. 





Fig. 203. Spindle 
Assembletl. 



Fig 203 Double Rmg m La^t lion Holder. 



Spinning Rings. Rings that are supplied with new ring frames 
are usually double rings, set in either cast iron or plate holders. 
The ring shown in Fig. 203 is such, in a cast iron holder with wire 
traveler cleaner; A, is the holder, B, the ring, and, C, the cleaner. 
A recess is formed on the inside of the holder and the traveler cleaner 
lies around the recess, between the ring and holder. 

The position of the upturned end of the traveler cleaner is such 
that, as the traveler rotates, the loose fibers and fly, which are always 



2B4, 



COTTON SPINNING 



243 




Double Ring in PUite Holder. 



floating about a spinning room, and which are bound to gather on 

the traveler, are wiped off and the traveler kept clean. Unless the 

traveler is kept free from this accumulation, uneven yarn will be 

caused. 

The traveler cleaner is set just far enough away so that it cannot 

interfere with the rotation of the 

traveler. It cannot get out of 

place, because the tail is always 

set concentric with the ring. 

Another style of "double 

ring", in a plate holder, is shown 

in Fig. 204. This is known as a 

double adjustable ring. It is in a plate holder with part of the 

plate turned up to form the traveler cleaner. A, is the ring, B, the 

plate holder, and, C, is the part of the plate which forms the traveler 

cleaner. 

The advantage claimed for a double ring, is, that when the top 

flange becomes worn, it may be reversed in the holder, the other side 

used, prolonging very much the wear of the ring. 

The plate holders are made round, oval or square. A round 
holder is shown, with the ring, 
in Fig. 204, and an oval plate 
holder with a double ring is 
shown in Fig. 205. 

The oval holder has two 
screw slots at AA, for securing 
the holder to the ring rail, and 
two lugs at BB for fastening the 
ring to the holder. The slots 
permit the holder to be adjusted 
so the ring can be set concentric 
with the spindle. 

A square holder is shown in 

Fig. 305. Oval Plate Holder and Ring. pig. 206. This One has alsO tWO 

slots, AA, for fastening it to the rail but has three lugs, BBB, for fast- 
ening the ring to the holder. 

The cast iron holder is secured to the ring rail by three screws, 
two in front and one in the rear of the ring, and, by loosening one and 




244 



COTTON SPINNING 




Fig. 206. Square Plate Holder and Rini 



tightening the other two, the ring can be moved a sHght distance for 
setting it in position. The cast iron holder is made with a split so 
that it can be sprung open, slightly, to remove the ring. 

Rings, known as solid ■ rings are also used. They are without 

holders and are made to fit the 
holes in the ring rail with a 
very slight adjustment by 
screws the same as the cast 
iron holders. 

Rings are often specified 
as one and one-half inch ring 
in a holder for one and three- 
fourths inch ring. This per- 
mits the holder to be removed 
and a one and three-fourths 
inch ring and holder to be 
used in the same place. The 
hole in the ring rail is made large enough that a one and three-fourths 
inch ring may be used. 

The flanges for the rings for ring frames are known as numbers 1, 
2, etc. Number 1 flange is one-quarter of an inch wide, and is usually 
used for rings up to one and three-fourths inches in diameter, while 
number 2 flange, which is five thirty- 
seconds of an inch wide, is used for sizes 
up to two and one-fourth inches in di- 
ameter. This is not an absolute rule to 
follow but is recommended by some of 
the prominent ring makers. 

Enlarged sections of flanges, num- 
bers one and two with the respective 
sizes of the traveler, are shown in Fig. 207. 
Ring Travelers. There is no rule by 
which the correct weight of travelers may be determined for a cer- 
tain number of yarn, as the size of ring, speed of spindle, number 
of yarn arid twist per inch, introduce elements which affect the size 
of the traveler, and, also, the different makes of travelers vary slightly 
in the numbers of different sizes. 

The following table gives approximately the correct size of ring 





rig, 207. Enlarged Section of 
Flange of Rings and Travelers. 



286 



COTTON SPINNING 



245 



travelers to use for spinning yarns of ordinary twist and of various 
sizes of rings. This table is given as a guide to select travelers, but 
it must be understood that the numbers will vary somewhat owing 
to circumstances as referred to above. 



No. Yarn 


154" Ring 


IH" Ring 


1%" Ring 


No. Yarn 
30- 


lii" Ring 


IH" Ring 


IVi" Ring 


8 


10 


9 


8 


^ 


! 


t 


10 


8 


7 


6 


32 


TT 


f 


"J 


12 


7 


6 


5 


34 


^ 


■ "iT 


^ 


U 


6 


5 


4 


36 


i 


U 


17 


16 . 


5 


4 


3 


38 


i 


i 


t 


18 


4 


3 


2 


40 


Ti 


f 


Y 


20 


3 


2 


1 


42 


TJ 


"TTT 




22 


2 


1 


i 


44 


'0" 


"5' 




24 


1 


h 


TT 


46 


¥ 


¥- 




26 


S 


IS 


tr 


48 


-¥ 


'W 




28 


"5 


i 


1 


50 


¥- 


~u- 





Principle of the Traveler. The traveler receives its motion by 
being dragged, by the yarn, around the ring, and, in the passage of the 
yarn from the front roll to the bobbin, it is turned at a right angle 
at the point where it passes through the traveler. Therefore, all of 
the twist is introdticed between the traveler and the front roll. In 
fact, the traveler performs a double 
duty, giving the twist to the yarn 
and guiding it on to the bobbin. 

The size and weight of the trav- 
eler must be adapted to the number 
of yarn being spun. This is neces- 
sary so that the revolutions of the 
traveler shall fall behind the revo- 
lutions of the bobbin enough to 
maintain a tension upon the yarn, 
sufficient to wind the same length, 
that is delivered by the front roll, 
less a small amount due to contraction in consequence of the twist. 

The smaller the diameter of the bobbin, the more revolutions are 
necessary to wind the same length, and, as the speed of the bobbin is 
constant, it is evident that the tension upon the yarn must relax and 




. Diagram Showing 
ciple of Traveler. 



387 




246 COTTON SPINNING 

allow the traveler to fall behind the bobbin and cause more yarn to be 
wound. This may be understood by noting the two diagrams, Figs. 
208 and 209. In these illustrations, R is the ring, T, the traveler, 
S, the spindle, F, the full bobbin, and E, the empty bobbin. The 
yarn is represented, as passing through the traveler, by the line Y. 
With the full bobbin (Fig. 209), the pull of the yarn is nearly 
parallel with the ring, and the traveler is rotated with comparative 
ease, but with the empty bobbin (Fig. 208), the pull of the yarn ap- 
proaches a radial line and is not as 
well suited to rotate the traveler. 

We will assume that the empty 
bobbin is three-quarters of an inch 
in diameter (2.35 inches circumfer- 
ence) and the full bobbin is one 
and three-quarters inches in diame- 
ter (5.49 inches in' circumference). 
If the traveler is held stationary 
and the empty bobbin given one 
Pig. 209. Diagram Showing revolution, there will be wound 2.35 

Principle of Traveler. . •,1,11.11 

inches 01 yarn, while with the tuU 
bobbin, one revolution will wind 5.49 inches. 

If the rotations of the traveler were not retarded, it would travel 
around the ring a distance equal to 2.35 inches, for an empty bobbin 
and 5.49 inches for a full bobbin, and, as each rotation of the traveler 
gives one twist to the yarn, a considerable difference in the twist per 
inch will be produced, but as the traveler falls behind the bobbin 
only enough to cause the yarn to be wound, the difference in the 
twist is not appreciable. 

If the bobbin makes one hundred revolutions and in the same 
time the front roll delivers ten inches of yarn, the twist can be called 
ten per inch. 

The empty bobbin will have to make 4.25 revolutions. 

2.35 ~ *-^"' 
The traveler will make 95.75 rotations, or the speed of the bobbin 
less the number of revolutions, necessary to wind the yarn. 
100 - 4.25 = 95.75 



COTTON SPINNING 



247 



At each rotation of the traveler, the yarn receives one twist, so 
the actual twist per inch will be 9.57. 

With the full bobbin, 1.84 revolutions are necessary to wind the 
ten inches of yarn, delivered by the front roll. 

5:49 =^-^* # 
The traveler will then make only 98.16 rotations. 

100 - 1.S4 = 98.16 
The difference in twist per inch between a full bobbin, one and 
three-fourths inches in diameter and an empty one, three-fourths of 
an inch in diameter, is the difference between 9.81 and 9.57 or .24 
of one turn in a length of ten inches. 

Builders. There are three kinds of builders used upon the ring 
frame. The warp builder is shown in Fig. 210, the filling builder in 




Fig. 310. Warp Builder. 

Fig. 213 and the combination builder, which can be changed for 
either warp or filling wind, in Fig. 215. 

With the warp builder, the yarn is wound the whole length of the 
bobbin at first and the length of the traverse is gradually shortened 
at each end as the bobbin increases in diameter, as shown by the 
distance A-B, Fig. 211. 

The warp builder consists of a main piece or arm, S-, rack, N^ 
hook, M-, worm, W-, worm shaft, F^ ratchet gear, T, pawl, V^ 
counterbalance weight, S^, and roll, Z. All these parts are mounted 
upon the builder arm which is hung upon a stud at Q. The worm is 



289 



248 



COTTON SPINNING 



fastened to one end of the worm shaft, and engages the teeth of the 
rack, and the ratchet is fastened to the other end of the shaft and its 
teeth are acted upon by the pawl. 

The means for producing the up and down movement of the 

rail is by a uniform niption cam, J", which bears against the cam 

roll and this motion is communicated to 

the ring rail by a chain from the hook 

fastened to the builder rack. 

The connection from the chain to the 
ring rail is shown in perspective in the 
drawing Fig. 212. The cross shafts, M', 
by which the guide rods are operated, are 
supported in hangers, V^, which are 
bolted to the underside of the ladders. 
An upward projecting arm, X', carries a 
swivel to which is connected the builder 
chain, Y', and a horizontal arm, C^, car- 
ries a roll, Y^, which bears against a shoe 
on the lower end of the guide rod, C^. 
The ring rails, E^, rest upon brackets on 
the top of the guide rods. A counterbal- 
ance weight, not shown in the drawing 
but attached to each cross shaft and shown 
as G" in Fig. 192, keeps the builder cam 
roll up against the cam, so that there shall 
be no backlash at the end of the traverse. 
The cam is fastened to the cam or heart shaft, K, which is driven 
from the foot or gear end, P\ to which reference will be made later. 
The rack is shown wound out to the extreme end of the arm, 
and the ring rail moves the full length of its traverse, but at each 
upward swing of the arm, the pawl is brought into contact with the 
dagger, E^, which is fastened to the ladder. This gives the ratchet 
gear a partial turn, and the rack is drawn back toward the fulcrum of 
the arm and the traverse of the rail is shortened. 

The ratchet gears are made with various numbers of teeth and 
the dagger is adjustable so that it can be set to take up more or less 
teeth. 



B 



Fig. 211. Warp Bobbin. 



COTTON SPINNING 



249 



When the bobbin is full, the rack is wound out to commence a 
new set by the crank, 7}, called the builder key. 

The filling builder (Fig. 21.3) is connected to the ring rail in the 
same manner as the one just described, but .with the filling wind, the 
rail starts at the lowest point in the traverse and, instead of winding 




the yarn the whole length of the bobbin, it is wound a short distance, 
as shown by A-B in Fig. 214. The length of the traverse remains 
the same throughout the whole length of the bobbin, but its position 
gradually goes higher until it reaches the top of the bobbin. This 



250 



COTTON SPINNING 



is accomplished in the following way: The worm, W^, instead of 
engaging a rack as on the warp builder, is in gear with a worm gear, 
V^, the hub of which is made as a drum upon which the builder chain, 
T', is wound. The ratchet gear is turned in the same manner as for 
the warp builder. 

At the beginning of the set, when the rail is at its lowest position, 
the chain is wound around the drum, but as the ratchet gear is slowly 




Fig. 313. Filling Builder. 

turned, it is gradually unwound and the traverse is allowed to go 
liigher on the bobbin. The builder is wound back with a key, the 
same as the warp builder. 

- The filling cam, O^, is made with three lobes, so each revolution 
of the cam shaft causes the ring rail to make three complete traverses 
against one complete traverse of the warp cam. Owing to the 
peculiar outlines of the filling cam, the rail is made to traverse in one 
direction faster than in the other. The cam can be put on to the cam 
shaft so as to give either a fast or slow down traverse to the ring rail. 
The slow down traverse is generally preferred, as the yarn draws off 
the bobbin much better and with less danger of breaking when 
afterwards used in the shuttle in weaving. 

The object in having the rail run faster one way than the other 
is to permit the coils, wound on the slow traverse, to be covered by 
the coils of the fast traverse which •mnd more openly and this, in a 
measure, prevents the yarn from becoming tangled, and allows it to 
unwind from the bobbin more freely. 



COTTON SPINNING 



251 



The combination builder (Fig. 215) may be used for either a 
warp, or a filling wind, by making a shght change in the arrangement 
of parts, but it is necessary to use both warp and filling cams to produce 
this change. 

The drawing shows the builder arranged for a filling wind. The 
chain is fastened to the hook, formed in the end of the filling arm, 
K', which is pivoted on the builder at Z'. 
Upon commencing to spin a set, the builder 
is drawn out until the roll, J^ which is fas- 
tened to the rack, N', is brought .against the 
neck of the filling arm in the position shown. 

The builder arm is caused to traverse 
by the filling cam, O^ in the same manner 
as the other builders, and the rack is grad- 
ually moved back towards the fulcrum of 
the builder arm, carrying with it the roll. 
This movement allows the filling arm to rise 
and the traverse of the rail to approach the 
top of the bobbin. The length of the trav- 
erse remains the same, as the position of 
the point, to which the chain is attached to 
the filling arm, is not changed. 

When the builder is to be changed from 
filling to warp, the filling cam is loosened 
and slipped along the shaft, and the warp 
cam is put in its place; the chain is then 
unhooked from the filling arm and fastened 
to the pin in the rack. 

In setting the warp builder shown in Fig. 210, the rack, N', is 
first drawn out, as shown in the drawing, and the traverse is set by 
running the ring rail down, to bring the traveler to the position wanted 
on the bobbin. The rail is then raised to the desired point, and by 
adjusting the length of the chain arm, 1} (Fig. 212), the exact length 
of the traverse can be determined. 

The length of taper, for the top or bottom of the bobbin, can 
be varied by raising or lowering the fulcrum, Q, of the builder arm. 
This may be understood by reference to Fig. 216. The builder is 
set for the same length of taper for both ends of the bobbin. The 




Fig. 314. Fining Bobbin. 



COTTON SPINNING 



fulcrum of the builder arm is at Q; the throw of the cam is shown by 
the distance between the center of the cam rolls, A and B. 

When the rail is traversing its greatest distance and the rack is 
wound out, the hook is at G and the length of the traverse is repre- 




rig. 315. Combination Builder. 



sented by the distance between the horizontal lines, C-D. But when 
the bobbin is full and the traverse is shortened to its extent, the point, 
G, where the hook is attached, has moved in to H and the traverse 
of the rail is represented by the distance E-F. The distance between 




Fig. 216. Diagram Showing Taper at Top and Bottom of Bobbin. 

C-E and F-D is the same and the bobbin has the same amount of 
taper at each end. 

If it is desired to have a long taper upon the top of the bolibin, 
the fulcrum of the builder arm is dropped, as in Fig. 217, which 



COTTON SPINNING 253 



results in making a long nose on the top of the bobbin. The greatest 
traverse of the rail is represented by the distance, C-D, and the 
shortest traverse by the distance, E-F. Unlike the previous drawing, 
the distance between the horizontal lines, D-F, which represents the 
lowest position of the rail for both the long and the short traverse, 
is much less than the distance, C-D. 

If the long taper is wanted upon the bottom of the bobbin, the 
fulcrum is raised. The length of the taper can be regulated to a 
certain extent by raising or lowering the dagger so as to let off a 
greater or lesser number of teeth. 

In starting the filling builder, the chain should be wound up as 
shown in the drawing (Fig. 213) until the double tooth, P^, comes 
around against the worm, which forms a stop, so that the rail shall 




Fig. 217. Diagram Showing Taper at Top and Bottom ol Bobbin. 

start in the same position each time. The length of taper may then be 
regulated by raising or lowering the fulcrum of the builder arm and 
also by letting off teeth on the ratchet gear 

In using the combination builder, for a filling wind, the fulcrum 
of the filling arm is raised or lowered in the slot, ZS instead of raising 
the fulcrurn, Q, of the arm. 

A word in regard to the respective merits of stick doffing and 
twist doffing. The method, employed by most of the mills, through- 
out the country, where modern spindles are used, is "stick" doffing. 
This is done by running the ring rail to the lowest point in its traverse, 
and winding a few coils of loose yarn around the cup, so that when 
the full bobbin is drawn off, this loose yarn will wind closely around 



295 



254 COTTON SPINNING 



the blade of the spindle. The empty bobbin is then pushed down 
en the spindle, and the loose yarn is caught between the spindle and 
the bobbin, so when the frame is started, the yarn is ready to wind on. 

The system, called "twist" doffing, is used where o'd style spin- 
dles are used. This method consists in stopping the frame about 
in the middle of the extreme ends of the traverse on both warp and 
filling frames. When the full bobbin is removed, the empty one is 
twisted around the loose yarn and pushed down on the spindle. When 
the frame is started, a slight ridge is sometimes formed before the rail 
begins to traverse. This is a serious fault, on a filling wind, for as the 
yarn grows less on the bobbin and begins to draw from a point below 
the ridge, it breaks, causing frequent stopping of the loom when 
weaving. 

The "stick" method cannot be used successfully, on the old 
style spindles, as the yarn cannot be wound around the base of the 
blade without seriously inlferfering with the putting on of the empty 
bobbins. 

The "twist" doff takes considerably longer than the "stick" doff, 
and for that reason, the latter is used whenever possible. 

Gearing. An elevation, showing the gear end of a ring frame, 
is shown in Fig. 218. The front rolls, F, are driven from the drum 
shaft, G^, by the drum gear, A^ the stud gear, C, the twist gear,. K^, 
intermediate gears, N^, and the front roll gear, SI 

The cam shaft, K, is driven from the sprocket gear, J^, on the 
hub of the intermediate gear, N", by a chain, A^, a sprocket gear, D", 
the bevel gears, E" and F", the worm, W^, and the worm gear, P, 
which is upon the cam shaft. 

The draft gearing is shown on the right hand side of the frame. 
The gear. A, on the front roll drives the crown gear, M^, and on the 
stud with the crown gear is the draft gear, D", which drives the gear, 
K", on the back roll. The gear, O", on the back roll drives the middle 
roll through the carrier gear, P° and middle roll gear, R'. The draft 
gearing is alike on each side of the frame and for extremely long 
frames a set of draft gears is used upon each end; "double geared", 
it is called. 

The arrangement of the twist gearing is such that a combination 
of gears may be applied, that will give a wide range of twist. 

The drum and stud gears are of twenty-four and ninety-one 



COTTON SPINNING 



teeth. These can be changed to thirty and eighty-five or forty and 
seventy-five teeth. 

The twist gear, which has from twenty to fifty teetli, is carried 
hv a link, A^ which swings on the hub of the drum box, and, as shown 




Fig. 218. End Elevation Showing Gearing. 

in the drawing, it is in gear with tlie intermediate gear on the left 
hand side of tlie frame. 

The driving belt should never be crossed, and it frequently 
happens that the direction of the main line is such that the front roll 
will turn in the wrong direction. To remedy this, the twist link is 



256 



COTTON SPINNING 



swung over so that the twist gear will engage the intermediate gear 
on the opposite side from that shown in the drawing. 

The drums are seven, eight or nine inches in diameter and the 
whirl of the spindle is three-fourths, thirteen-sixteenths, seven-eighths 
of an inch or one inch in diameter. The sizes, most commonly 



DRAFT GEAR 
^ ZOTO 45TEETH 




19. Diagram ot Draft Gearing. 

used, are seven inch drum and three-quarters or thirteen-sixteenths 
inch whirl. 

The spindle makes a certain number of revolutions to each 
revolution of the drum, and this is called "relation of drum to whirl". 
This relation must be known in figuring the speed of the spindle, hence 
the following table : 

Revolutions of Spindle 



Dia. ot whirl 


7" drum 


8" arum 


9" drum 


. - 3,, 


8.12 


9.20 


10.72 




7.58 


8.6i 


9.94 




7.05 • 


8.10 


9.45 


1" 


6.48 


7.18 


8 25 



The speed of the cam shaft is often changed, as the filling wind 
is run at a greater speed than the warp wind. The traverse must also 
run at a greater speed for coarse yarn than for fine yarn. These 



COTTON SPINNING 



257 



changes in speed are made by having a different number of teeth in 
either the upper or lower sprocket gear. The binder pulley, T", 
which is carried by an arm, Y", is for taking up the slack of the chain 
when necessary. 

To change the draft, various combinations are used. In the 
drawing, a front roll gear of twenty teeth and a crown gear of seventy 




TWIST GEAR 
STUD GEAR 
DRUM GEAR- 

Fig. 320. Diagram of Twist Gearing. 

teeth are shown. These may be changed to twenty and sixty-four 
teeth or thirty and one hundred four teeth. 

The back roll gear shown has fifty-six teeth but ft is also supplied 
with fifty, fifty-four or fifty-five teeth. 

The regular draft gearing is sixteen pitch, but where a very fine 
range is wanted, the gears are made twenty-four pitch so that a change 
of one tooth will make a small change in the draft. 



299 



2.5S COTTON SPINNING 

Yarn is made both right and left twist. When it is to be doubled 
on a twister, it is necessary to spin it with the spindle rotating in the 
opposite direction from that of the twister spindle. If two threads 
are to be twisted on a ring twister and given a right hand twist, they 
must have a left hand twist in spinning. 

A diagram of the draft gearing is shown in Fig. 219 and the twist 
gearing is shown in Fig. 220. 

Rule 1. To find the draft between the front and back rolls: 
Multiply the driven gears by the diameter of the front roll and divide 
the product by the product of the driving gears multiplied by the 
diameter of the back roll. The driven gears are M'' and K'^ and the 
diameter of the front roll is 1 inch. The driving gears are A and D" 
and the back roll is | inches diameter, 
r 1 70 X 56 X 8 

Example: 20 X 28 X 7 = ^'^^ 

Rule 2. To find the draft factor: Proceed as in the previous 
rule but omit the draft change gear D". 
1? 1 70 X 56 X 8 

Example: — Wy^ — " 

Rule 3. To find the draft: Divide the factor by the number 

of teeth in. the draft gear. 

224 
Example: ^^ = 8.00 

Rule 4. To find the number of teeth in the draft gear: Divide 

the factor by the draft. 

094 
Example: ^ = 28.00 

Rule 5 To find the twist per inch in the yarn: Multiply the 
driven gears by the ratio of spindle to drum and divide the product 
by the product of the driving gears multiplied by the circumference 
of the front roll. The driven gears are C and S* and the ratio of a 
f inch whirl to a 7 inch diameter drum is 8.12. The driving gears 
are A* and K'^ and the circumference of the front roll is 3.14. 
T7 1 85 X 91 X 8.12 . 

^^^"^P'^^ 30 X 31 X 3.14 ^ ^^■''^ 

Rule 6. To find the twist factor: Proceed as in Rule 5 but omit 
the twist change gear. 



COTTON SPINNING 259 

85 X 91 X 8.12 
Kxample: oi"^ °° ()66.75 

Rule 7. To find the twist gear : Divide the factor by the required 
twist. 

T? 1 ' 666.75 „^ 

Example: ^LSO = ^^ 

Rule 8. To find the twist per inch: Divide the factor by the 
number of teeth in.the twist gear. 

Example: ^=21.50 

The standard twist for warp yarn is the square root of the number 
of yarn multiphed by 4.75. For filling yarn, multiply by 3.20. For 
hosiery yarn, and other soft twisted yarn, the factor is as low as 2.50, 
and for extra hard twisted yarns, as high as 5.00. The standard 
twist tables are based on the multiple of 4.75 for warp and 3.20 for 
filling. 

Rule 9. To find the number of hanks per spindle: Multiply 
together the revolutions of the front roll per minute (132), the circum- 
ference of the front roll (3.14") and the estimated number of minutes 
run in ten hours (570). Divide the product by the number of inches 
in one hank (30,240). 

„ , 132 X 3.14 X 5.70 _ ^, 
Example: ^^-^^ = 7.81 

Rule 10. To find the number of pounds per spindle: Divide 
the number of hanks per spindle (7.81) by the number of yarn (20). 

Example: -j-- = .39 

Rule 11. To find the revolutions of the spindle per .minute: 
Multiply together the revolutions of the front roll (132), the twist 
per inch (21.24) and the circumference of the front roll (3.14). 
Example: 132 X 21.24 X 3.14 = 8803.55 

Rule 12. To find the weight in grains per yard of any number 
of yarn: Divide the weight per yard of No. 1 yarn (8,333 grains) by 
the number of yarn (20). 

Example: ' =.416 

The production of the ring frame is governed by the speed at 
which the front roll can be run, and this speed is determined by the 



260 



COTTON SPINNING 



quality and counts of yarn being spun. All machinery builders 
publish tables giving the speeds of the front roll and the spindle for 
the different numbers of yarn These speeds are based upon the 
result of experiments, and may be increased ten to fifteen per cent, 
when the nature of the stock is such that it will allow it. 

In Rules 9 and 11, the speed of the front roll, which is 132 
R. r. M., is the table speed for No. 20 warp yarn; and in Rule 11 
the twist per inch, wliich is 21.24, is the standard for No. 20 warp 
yarn also. 

The actual time that the frame is stopped for cleaning and doffing 
varies very much with the number of the yarn and the quality of the 
cotton. This amounts to from 2 to 12 per cent. 

The tables given show the speeds at which the front roll and the 
spindles may be safely run, for both warp and filling yarn, from 
numbers 4 to 60. 

■WARP YARN 





Revs, of 


Revs, of 


Hanks 


Pounds 


Estimated 


Number 
of Yarn 


1 Inch 
Front Roll 
Per Minute 


Spindle P6r 
Minute 


Per Day 
Per Spindle 


Per Day 
Per Spindle 


Time Run 

Per Day 

in Minutes. 


4 


155 


4600 


8.64 ' 


2.16 


537 


5 


153 


51Q0 


8.57 


1.71 


538 


6 


152 


5600 


8.50 


1.41 


539 


7 


150 


5900 


8.43 


1.20 


640 


8 


148 


6300 * 


8.36 


1.04 


540 


9 


147 


6600 


8.29 


0.92 


541 


10 


145 


6900 


8.22 


0.82 


542 


12 


142 


7400 


8.08 


0.67 


544 


14 


139 • 


7800 


7.93 


0.56 


546 


16 


136 


8200 


7.78 


0.48 


548 


18 


133 


8500 


7.64 


0.42 


550 


20 


130 


8700 


7.49 


0.374 


552 


22 


127 


8900 


7.34 


0.333 


554 


24 


124 


9100 


7.19 


0.299 


556 


26 


121 


9200 


7.03 


0.270 


558 


28 


118 


9300 


6.88 


0.245 


■ 560 


30 


115 


9400 


6.72 


0.224 


562 


32 


112 


9500 


6.57 


0.205 


564 


34 


109 


9500 


6.41 


0.188 


565 


36 


106 


9500 _ 


6.25 


0.173 


567 


38 


103 


9500 


6.09 


0.160 


569 


40 


100 


9500 


5.93 


0.148 


571 


42 


98 


9500 


5.83 


0.138 


573 


44 


96 


9500 


5.73 


0.130 


575 


46 


94 


9500 


6.63 


0.122 


577 


48 


92 


9500 


5.53 


0.115 


579 


50 


90 


9600 


5.43 


0.108 


581 


60 


85 


9800 


5.20 


0.086 


. 590 



COTTON SPINNING 



2GI 



FILLING YARN 





Revs, of 


Revs, of 


Hanks 


Pounds 


Estimated 


Number 
of Yarn 


llnoh 
Front Roll 
Per Minute 


Spindle Per 
Minute 


Per Day 
Per Spindle 


Per Day 
Per Spindle 


Time Run 
Per Day 
in Minutes 


4 


169 


3400 


9.22 


2,30 ■ 


525 


5 


168 


3775 


9.17 


1.83 


526 


6 


166 


4100 


9.12 


1.52 


527 


7 


165 


4400 


9.08 


1.29 


528 


8 


163 


4650 


8.99 


1.12 


629 


9 


162 


4900 


8.95 


0.99 


530 


10 


160 


5100 


8.85 


0.S8 


531 


12 


158 


5500 


8.75 


0.72 


533 


14 


155 


5850 


• 8.65 


0.61 


535 


16 


151 


6100 


8.47 


0.52 


537 


18 


147 


6300 


8.28 


0.46 


540 


20 


144 


6500 • 


. 8.14 


0.407 


542 


22 


142 


6700 


8.03 


0.365 


544 


24 


136 


6700 


7.72 


0.321 


546 


26 


134 


6900 


7.67 


0.295 


548 


28 


130 


6950 


7.47 


0.266 


550 


30 


126 


6950 


7.25 


0.241 


552 


32 


123 


7000 


7.09 


0.221 


555 . 


34 


119 


7000 


6.91 


0.203 


557 


36 


116 


7000 


6.74 


0.187 


559 


38 


114 


7100 


• 6.68 


0.175 


561 


40 


112 


71.50 


6.58 


0.164 


563. 


42 


110 ■ 


7200 


6.49 


0.154 


565 


44 


108 


7200 


6.37 


0.144 


567 


46 


105 


7200 


6.25 


0.135 


570 


48 


103 


7200 


6.14 


0.128 


572 


50 


101 


7200 


6.04 


0.102 


574 


60 


93 


7300 


5.69 


0.094 


685 



The draft of the ring frame varies much with the quahty of 
cotton, the number of yarn being spun and whether the yarn is single 
or double roving. 

It is a fault, with many mill superintendents, to have the hank 
roving, of the fine fly frame, coarse so the production will be large 
which makes the draft erf the ring frame long. This is productive 
of uneven yarn, particularly when spun from single roving. In many 
cases, the roving should be made fine enough so that the draft will be 
from six to eight for single roving and from eight to twelve for double 
roving. 

The following program is for a mill, making flat duck, seven to 
twelve ounces per yard, number ten warp, number five and one-half 
filling from single roving. 



303 



262 COTTON SPINNING 

PROGRAM OF DRAFTS AND WEIGHTS 

NO. 10 WARP. NO. 5i FILLING 

Weight of PicKer Lap 16 ounces 

Weight of Card Lap less h per cent 6630 grains 

Draft of Card 102 

Weight of Card Sliver 65 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 1st "process 6 

Draft on Drawing Frame, 1st process 5.4 

Weight of Drawing SHver, 1st process 72.2 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 

Draft on Drawing Frame, 2nd process ; 5.4 

Weight of Drawing Sliver, 2nd process SO. 2 grains 

Draft of Slubber 4.80 

Hank Roving of Slubber 50 

Double on Fine Frame 2 

Draft on Fine Frame 4. 00 and 5.20 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame . . . ' 100 and 1.30 

Draft of Ring Frame 5 . 50 and 7.70 

No. of Yarn 5.50 filling and 1 warp 

The slubber roving is .50 hank, and on account of the extreme 
difference between the warp and filling yarn, it is necessary to make 
two numbers of roving, on the fine frame, namely, 1.00 hank and 
1.30 hank. 

The weight of the picker lap is given in ounces per yard, but the 
weight of the card lap is given in grains per yard, as the weight of 
the card sliver is expressed in grains and the draft can be figured 
more easily. 

The weight of the card lap is figured as five per cent less than the 
picker lap. Actually, there is no difference, as the lap from the 
finisher picker goes directly to the back of the card, but as there is a 
loss of about five per cent in carding, it is customary to take this 
amount out of the weight of the lap. 

The weight of slubber roving is given by the hank and, to find the 
necessary draft to make the required hank.roving, the following rule 
may be used: Multiply the weight of the drawing sliver (80.2 grains) 
by the required hank roving and divide by the weight of number one 
hank roving (8.333 grains). 
■c- ' , • 80.2 X .50 , ^., 

Example: "8333^" "^ 

The next program is that of a mill, making cotton cloth, weighing 
about three yards to the pound, thirty-six inches wide, number fourteen 
warp and filling yarn, from single roving. 



COTTON SPINNING 263 



PROGRAM OF DRAFTS AND WEIGHTS 

NO. 14 WARP. NO. U FILLING 

Weight of Picker Lap • -l-i ounces 

Weiglit of Card Lap less 5 per cent 5818 grains 

Draft of Card ^^ 

Weight of Card Sliver 60 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 1st process : 6 

Draft of Drawing Frame, 1st process ^ 

AVeight of Drawing Sliver, 1st process 60 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 

Draft of Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 

Weight of Drawing Sliver, 2nd porcess 60 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 3rd process 6 

Draft of Drawing Frame, 3rd process 6 

Weight of Drawing Sliver, 3rd process '. 60 grams 

Draft of Slubber 5-00 

Hank Roving of Slubber • 70 

Double on Fine Frame " 

Draft of Fine Frame ^ l^ 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame . 

Draft of Ring Frame 

No. of Yarn 

The third program is for a yarn mill also making fourteen yarn 
but from double roving. 

PROGRAM OF DRAFTS AND WEIGHTS 
NO. 14 HOSIERY YARN 

Weight of Picker Lap 14 ounces 

Weight of Card Lap less 5 per cent 5819^ grams 

Draft of Card . 



.00 
..7.00 
.14.00 



100 



Weight of Card Sliver 58 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 1st process 6 

Draft of Drawing Frame, 1st process ^-6 

Weight of Crawing Sliver, 1st process 58 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 2nd process • 6 

Draft of Drawing Frame, 2nd process • 6 

Weight of Drawing Sliver, 2nd process 58 grams 

Draft of Slubber ^-^ 

Hank Roving of Slubber ___-50 

Double on Intermediate -" 

Draft on Intermediate '^ • 

Hank Roving of Intermediate 110 

Double on Fine Frame ^ 

Draft of Fine Frame ^- ^ 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame ^.00 

Double on Itinj; Fiaine ■' " 

Draft of Rins Frame ^ -^ - 

No.ofYarn. l-^^O 



264 



COTTON SPINNING 



Yarn, spun from double roving, produces a more even thread 
than that spun from single roving, owing to the doubling of the two 
ends. A thin or light place, in one end, will be offset by the other 
end, but if an end breaks or runs out, the yarn spun from the remain- 
ing end will be "single" and of incorrect weight. 

The last program is for a mill making mule-spun hosiery yarn, 
numbers ten to twenty-four, from 2.30 and 4.00 hank roving, double. 

PROGRAM OF DRAFTS AND WEIGHTS 

FROM lO's TO 24's HOSIERY YARN 

Weight of Picker Lap 14 ounces 

Weight of Card Lap less 5 per cent .5819 grains 

Draft of Card 1 00 

Weight of Card Sliver 58 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 1st process 6 

Draft of Drawing Frame, 1st process 6 

Weight of Drawing Sliver, 1st process. 58 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 2nd process. .■ 6 

Draft of Drawing Frame, 2nd process 6 

Weight of Drawing Sliver, 2nd process 58 grains 

Double on Drawing Frame, 3rd process 6 

Draft of Drawing Frame, 3rd process 6 

Weight of Di'awing Sliver, 3rd process , 58 grains 

Draft of Slubber 3.83 

Hank Roving of Slubber 55 

Double on Intermediate 2 

Draft of Intermediate 4 and 5 . 2 

Hank Roving of Intermediate ' 1.10 and 1 , 43 

Double on Fine Frame 2 and 2 

Draft of Fine Frame 4.4 and 5 . 7 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame 2.42'and 4.00 

Double on Mule 2 and 2 

Draft of Mule 9.1 and 12.00 

No. of Yarn 11.01 and 24.00 



NO. OF YARN lO's 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 2.30 

Double on Mule 2 

Draft of Mule 8.7 

No. of Yarn 10.00 



NO. OF YARN 16's 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 4 . 00 

Double on Mule 2 

Draft of Mule 8 

No. of Yarn 16 . 00 



NO. OF YARN ITs 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 2 . 30 

Double on Mule 2 

Draft of Mule 9.6 

No. of Yarn 11 . 04 



NO, OF YARN 18's 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 4 . 00 

Double on Mule 2 

Draft of Mule . . ' 9 

No. of Yarn 18 . 00 



803 



COTTON SPINNING 



265 



NO. OF YARN 12's 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 2 . 30 

Double on Mule 2 

Draft of Mule 10.5 

No. of- Yarn 12.07 



NO. OF YARN 14's 



2.30 



Hank Roving of Fine Frame . 

Double on Mule 2 

Draft of Mule 12.2 

No. of Yarn 14 . 03 No. of Yarn . 



NO. OF YARN 20's 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 4 . 00 

Double on Mule 2 

Draft of Mule 10 

No. of Yarn 20,00 

NO. OF YARN 24's 

Hank Roving of Fine Frame ... 4 . 00 

Double on Mule 2 

Draff of Mule 12 



.24 



MULE SPINNING 

Briefly speaking, the mule consists of three parts : The beam for 
supporting the rolls, creels, etc; the carriage which contains the drums 
spindles, fallers and parts directly connected; and the headstock, or 
mule head, which contains the various parts that control the move- 
ments of the machine. The mules are placed in pairs, as shown in 
Fig. 221, with the carriages toward each other, the headstock is located 
a little nearer one end of the mule than the other, thus making a long 
and a short side to the mule carriage, the short side always being to 
the right hand of the headstock. 

In explanation, the operations of the mule may be divided into 
four stages. The first stage is called drawing and twisting; the 



i-OA/c •s/oe: 



SHORT S/OE 



SHORT SIDE. 



i.or/G 6/oe 



Fig. 231. Plan of a Pair of Mules. 

second, backing off; the third, winding and the fourth, re-engaging. 

'The roving is placed in the creels and passes through the rolls by 
which it is drawn in the same manner as on the ring frame. 

An elevation of the mule carriage is shown in Fig. 222 and a 
plan of the gearing, in Fig. 223. The spindles, L% and the drum, 
C°, are in the carriage, E, which. moves back and forth in a horizontal 
direction upon tracks, E", which are called carriage tracks. 



807 



266 



COTTON SPINNING 



When the operation of drawing antl twisting commences, the 
carriage is at the innermost point of its traverse, the point nearest 
the rolls, and as the rolls revolve and deliver the yarn, the spindles 




commence to turn and at the same instant, the carriage begins its 
outward run and the yarn, being delivered by the rolls, is kept under 
a slight tension and is twisted; when the carriage reaches the end of 



COTTON SPINNING 



its outward run, or stretch, which is about sixty-four inches, it is 
stopped and held for a brief period. 

On the outward run, the driving beU is on the tight pulley, A, 
and the spindles and rolls are revolving, the backing-off cone friction, 




Fig. 323. Plan of Gearing of the Mule. 

B, is out of gear as is also the dra wing-up friction, T^ The backing- 
off friction is revolving, as it is driven from a gear on the hub of the 
loose pulley, which revolves all the time, as the driving belt is slightly 
wider than the face of the tight pulley and a portion of it runs upon 
the loose pulley. 



268 COTTON SPINNING 

The speed of the driving pulley is 500 R. P. M. The spindles 
are driven from the rim or twist pulley, A^, which is eighteen inches 
in diameter and which is fast on the driving shaft, A'. The rim band, 
C, runs from the rim pulley around the carrier pulley, C, which is 
fastened to the headstock. From this point, it passes forward and 
around the carrier pulley, C*", which is upon the carriage, and then 
passes back and around the drum pulley, C, which is ten inches in 
diameter. From here, the band passes forward around the carrier 
pulley, C^, which is carried by an adjustable screw, E^, and which 
is used for keeping the band tight, then it passes back and around a 
carrier pulley, C% and back to the twist pulley. 

The drum, C°, is six inches in diameter and the whirl, C\ is 
three-quarters of an inch. The speed of the spindles will be 7105 
R. P. M. 

Example: . }^ ^^. X 500 =7105 

'■ 10 X /-o 

The front roll, D, is driven from the main shaft by the twist gear, 
D\ which has twenty-seven teeth, and the gears, D", of fifty teeth, D', 
of twenty-five teeth and the front roll gear, D'*, of fifty teeth. 

The speed of the front rolls will be 1.35 R. P. M. 

Example: 'g^^ X 500 = 135 

The front roll is one inch in diameter, therefore, 135 revolutions 
will give a delivery of 423.90 inches of yarn and during this- time, 
the spindles have made 7105 revolutions. 

The twist, therefore, will be 16.76 twists per inch. 

Example: -^^ = 16.76 

The carriage, E, is drawn out by the back, or carriage shaft, E\ 
which extends the whole length of the mule arid has fast upon it three 
scrolls, E^, one in the center and one at each end (the end . ones are 
not shown), which are about seven inches in diameter but terminate 
at the ends in a smaller diameter. 

The drawing-out bands, E^, which are fastened to the carriage, 
pass back and around the scrolls and around carrier pulleys, E^. 
The center carrier pulley runs loose upon the quadrant shaft while 
the end ones turn on studs which are screwed to the ends of the mule 



310 



COTTON SPINNING 269 

framing. From the carrier pulleys, the bands pass back and are 
fastened to the mule carriage. 

The carriage shaft is driven from the front roll gear of fifty teeth 
and through the intermediate gear of fifty teeth and the gears of 
ninety-six and twenty-six teeth and the carriage shaft gear, D', of 
one hundred teeth. The speed of the carriage shaft is 18.28 R. P. M. 

The scrolls are about seven inches in diameter and the scroll band 
will be about seven and one-half inches in diameter when passed 
around the scroll. 

The traverse of the carriage will then be 430.67 inches per minute. 
Example: 7.5 X 3.1416 X 18.28 = 430 67 

The stretch of the carriage is sixty-four inches and as the carriage 
runs at the rate of 430.67 inches per minute, each stretch of sixty-four 
inches will require about nine seconds time and as the rolls deliver 
the yarn at the rate of 423.90 inches per minifte, in nine seconds, they 
will deliver -^\ of 423.90 which is 63.58 inches. This shows that the 
carriage travels a slight distance more than the inches delivered by 
the front roll. This excess in travel is called. the "gain" of the carriage 
and amounts sometimes to two or three inches in each stretch, depend- . 
ing upon the quality and length of the cotton staple. 

The advantage of the carriage gain is to subject the yarn to a 
slight draft after it has left the rolls and as the twist in the yarn always 
runs to the thin places, this additional drawing elongates the soft or 
untwisted places which are thicker or larger in diameter and thus a 
more even thread is produced. 

Long staple cotton will permit of considerable draft, but with 
short cotton little or no draft can be given the yarn after it has left 
the rolls. 

At the commencement of the outward run of the carriage, the 
drawing-out bands are wound upon the large diameter of the scrolls 
and the carriage runs at a uniform speed, but, as the scrolls terminate 
in a smaller diameter, the carriage moves at a relatively slower speed 
as it approaches the end of the run. 

Backing-Off Motion. The next stage in the operations is called 
the backing-off. By this is meant the reversion of all the necessary 
parts from the position, occupied during the outward run, to the posi- 



270 



COTTON SPINNING 



tion which they are obliged to assume during winding. The mechan- 
ism is shown in Figs. 224, 225 and 226. 

At the end of the outward run, the carriage shaft clutch, H', is 
thrown out of gear, flae rolls and spindles cease to turn and the carriage 
is stationary. During this period, the spindles are caused to revolve 
a few turns in the opposite direction to that which they turned in 




Pig. 224. Detail of Cam Shaft. 

spinning. This unwinds the few coils of yarn that are around the 
spindle between the top of the cop and the point of the spindle. The 
winding f aller, K-, which acts as a guide for the yarn, is brought down 
into position and the counterfaller, K^, ascends, until it meets the 
yarn, so as to maintain an even tension as it is wound upon the spindle. 
The fallers are shown in this position in Fig. 226. This is brought 



COTTON SPINNING 271 

ahout by the backing-off friction wheel, B, l)eing brought into contact 
with the tight pulley, A (Fig. 222). 

The cone clutch on the cam shaft is put in gear, and, just 
previous to the carriage arriving at the end of the nm, the belt is 
moved on the loose pulley, allowing the carriage to- finish the stretch 
by its momentum. 

At this point, it will be well to explain just how the backing-off 
friction changes the direction of the rotations of the spindles. 

The backing-off friction acts first as a stop for the rim, or driving 
shaft, and secondly, to in^part motion to it in the opposite direction. 
The backing-off friction revolves all of the time because a part of the 
driving belt is upon the loose pulley at all times and as the latter 
drives the backing-off wheel by the gear of twenty-seven teeth, which 
is fast upon the hub of the loose pulley, and the gears of seventy-seven 
and eleven teeth, which are upon the backing-off shaft, W, and the 
backing-off wheel of eighty teeth. The last is driven in the opposite 
direction from the tight pulley at a very slow speed and, when suddenly 
thrown into contact with the tight pulley, the friction acts first as a 
brake and then turns the spindles a few revolutions, in the opposite 
direction, before it is drawn out of contact. 

In Fig. 225, is shown the device by which the backing-off friction 
is operated. In the hub of the friction is a groove, in which runs a 
clutch lever, P^, with its fulcrum at P^. The long end of the lever is 
connected to a bell crank, P'. To the end of this bell crank is fastened 
one end of the backing-off rod, B^, the other end being connected 
to the backing-off lever, O'', by the spring, O". The backing-off 
lever is fastened to the headstock by a stud, S'^. 

■ As the carriage moves out, the tight pulley. A, and the backing-off 
friction, B, are disengaged, but when the carriage arrives at the 
end of the run, the backing-off arm, K', comes against the roll, S", 
which is upon the lever, O', the last, being raised. By so doing, 
the rod, B^, is drawn forward in the direction shown by the arrow, 
the friction is caused to engage with the tight pulley, and the spindles 
are rotated in the opposite direction. 

After the spindles have unwound sufficient length of yarn, by 
their reverse movement, it is evident that they must be stopped else 
too much yarn will be unwound. This is accomplished by the locking 
of the fallers, whose movement causes the backing-off arm, K', to be 



272 



COTTON .SPINNING 




COTTON SPINNING 



273 



dropped, suddenly, out of contact with the roll on the backing-off 
lever; this allows the spring, 0^ to draw back On the lever which 
comes against the collar, O', upon the bacldng-off rod, moving the 
rod back and the friction becomes disengaged. 

Thefallers are drawn down and locked in the following manner: 
Upon the drum shaft, R^ is a plate, P, to the hub of which is fastened 
one end of the backing-off chain, L\ the other end being fastened 
to an arm, K^ which is upon the winding faller shaft, K^ Durmg 
the operation of drawing and twisting, the revolutions of the drum 




FLOOR LINE 



Pig. 326. Elevation Showing Details of Mule Carriage. 

shaft have no effect on the plate, as it is loose upon the drum 
shaft. But when the direction of the drum shaft is reversed, to unwind 
the yarn from around the spindles, the plate also rotates, being driven 
by a pawl and ratchet. The chain is thus wound around the hub of 
the plate and the faller is drawn down into the position for winding 
as shown in Fig. 226. 

Resting upon the top of the builder, or copping rail, L^ is the 
copping rail roll, L^ which is supported by an arm, L, called the 



274 



COTTON SPIXNINC; 



trailer and which is fastened to the carriage by a stud, S^. The for- 
ward end of this arm is free to swing up and down, and is supported 
by a guide, P^ Just above the roll, U, is a similar roll, L^, called 
the locking roll against wliich rests the lower end of a lever, K\ 
which is called the faller lock. This lock is hung from the arm, K^, 
which is fastened to the winding faller shaft, K\ 

When the carriage is on its outward run, the faller lock rests 
against the locking roll as shown in Fig. 225. But when the direction 
of the drum is reversed and the faller is drawn down into position for 
winding, the faller lock is drawn upwards, until the recess in its lower 
' part is raised high enough to fall forward over the locking roll, as 
shown in Fig. 226, in which position the lock remains during the 
inward run. 

In transferring the driving belt on to the loose pulley, just previous 
to the arrival of the carriage at the end of its outward run, a gi'eat 
saving in time is made by a quicker backing-off. The device which 




Fig. 327. Belt Reliertng Motion. 

controls this motion is called the belt relieving motion and is shown 
in Fig. 227. As the carriage comes out, a projecting part, H^, comes 
against the lever, H^, which through the rod, H', bell crank, H^, and 
connection, H^, moves the belt guide, D", on to the loose pulley. 

During the backing-off and while the fallers are being locked, the 
carriage is held rigidly for a brief period to enable this motion to 
operate before the carriage starts on its inward run. If some means 
were not provided, the carriage, upon arriving at the end of the out- 
ward run, would start back before the backing-off and the locking 
of the fallers could take place. To prevent this, the mule is provided 
with a holding-out catch which is shown in Figs. 22.5 and 226. Fas- 
tened to the carriage by a stud, N^, is a lever, K", called the holding-ouv 
finger, while upon the fore part of the headstock is a lever, R-, called 
the holding-out lever, one end of which is provided with a roll, R^, the 



COTTON SPINNING 275 

other end is fastened to the holding-out rod, R^ by collars, R^ This 
lever lias, for its fulcrum, a stud, R^. 

When the carriage arrives at the end of the outward run, the hold- 
ing-out finger comes against the roll in the end of the holding-out 
lever and holds it firmly in position. By so doing, the drawing-up 
friction, by which the carriage is drawn in, is held out of gear. When 
the backing-off is completed and the fallers locked, the finger is lifted 
clear of the roll and the holding-out rod allows the drawing-up 
friction to drop into gear. 

Backing=Off Chain Tightening Motion. We have seen, 
already, that at the end of the outward run, and after the carriage has 
come to a dead stop, the winding faller descends and guides the yarn 




Fig. 228. Elevation Showing Fallers. 

on to the spindle, while the counter faller rises until it meets the 
yarn, acting as a tension upon it. There remains to explain, in 
connection with the fallers, the different conditions under which 
they must work. 

When drawing and twisting take place during the outward run 
of the carriage, the fallers are in the position shown in Fig. 228. 
The winding faller, K^ is above the yarn and the counter faller, K^, 
is below, both clear of the yarn. But during the operation of backing- 
off, the fallers are made to assume the position shown in Fig. 229. 



276 COTTON SPINNING 

The winding faller descends and guides the yarn on to the spindles, 
and the counter faUer rises until it meets the underside of the yarn and 
acts as a tension upon it. 

When the cop is in the early stages of formation, the length of 
yarn, unwound from the bare spindle between the cop and point, 
is considerable, as shown in Fig. 230 by the distance between the 
point of the spindle. A, and the top of the cop, B. In order to move 
the yarn from A to B, the winding faller wire must descend from C 
to D while the counter faller wire rises from E to F. 

As the cop grows longer and the position of the winding gradually 
approaches the top of the spindle, the length cf yarn to be unwound 
is considerably less as shown by the distance between G and H in 



Fig. 239. Elevation Showing Fallers. 

Fig. 231. The winding faller will move from K to L only and the 
counter faller, from M to N. It will thus be seen that the movements 
of the fallers, during the early stages of the building of the cop, are 
considerably greater than when approaching the finish and that the 
length to be unwound, from around the bare spindle, is considerably 
more, and it follows that the revolutions given to the spindle in a 
reverse direction must gradually decrease. 

The gradual decrease in the revolutions of the spindle and the 
distance moved by the faller wires are regulated by the backing-off 
chain tightening motion. 



COTTON SPINNING 



277 



'c^nr 



^"\ 



A^f 



T 



Vp 



We have seen that the fallers are drawn down by the backing-off 
chain, which is wound around the backing-off plate, P, by the reverse 
direction of the drum. 

During the first part of the formation of the cop, a slack backing- 
off chain is of no objection, as it gives the spindles an opportunity 
to unwind the yarn before the faller wires 
move down. In Fig. 230, the faller wire 
moves from C to D in about the same 
time as it does from K to L in Figj 231. 
This is a very much shorter distance, and, 
unless the spindles have unwound a con- 
siderable length of yarn, there is great 
danger of the winding faller wire over- 
taking and breaking the yarn. 

As the cop grows longer, and the re- 
verse movement of the spindles less, there 
is not as much danger of this as the 
movement from the position, occupied 
during spinning, to that which is neces- 
sary for winding, is considerably less and 
the faller starts downward earlier at each 
layer wound until, at the finish, it comes 
down and just touches the yarn the mo- 
ment the spindles commence their reverse 
movement. 

The device, by which this motion is 
governed, is shown in Fig. 225 and is 
operated in the following way. Attached 
to the backing-off plate is one end of the 
tightening chain, S^, the other end is 
fastened to a lever, 0°, called the chain 
tightening lever, which turns on a stud, S^. As the carriage moves 
out, this lever hangs in a position which causes its lower end to just 
touch the chain tightening incline, O*. This incline is fastened to 
the builder shoe connecting rod, O'*, which connects the front and 
back builder shoes. 

As the building of the cop progresses and the builder shoes are 
moved back, the incline is brought more and more into the path of the 




Fig. 230. Diagram Sliowlng 
Movement of Fallers. 



278 



COTTON SPINNING 




chain tightening lever whicli causes the lever to unwind the tightening 
chain and to wind the backing-off chain on to the plate. By this 
movement, the slack, which exists in the backing-off chain during the 
early stages of the cop building, is gradually taken out and the fallers 
are drawn down a little earlier for each stretch of the carriage. 

Winding. The third stage in the op- 
erations of the mule is called winding. 

■ Immediately after the fallers have 
been brought into position and locked, 
the carriage commences its inward run, 
and the spindles rotate in the same direc- 
tion as when twisting and, in so doing, 
wind on to the cops the yarn that is re- 
leased as the carriage runs in. The wind- 
ing faller descends rapidly, and guides a 
few coils down the cop and then rises 
very slowly and arrives at the starting 
point as the carriage reaches the end of its 
inward run. 

Before describing the winding opera- 
tion, it is necessary to know what causes 
the carriage to be drawn inward and also 
to understand the changes that take place 
by the partial rotation of the cam shaft 
sleeve. 

In Fig. 224 is shown a detail of the 
cam shaft and in Fig. 232 an end elevation. 
The cam shaft, D\ rotates all of the 
time that the mule is running and is driven 
from the backing-off shaft by the gears of 
nineteen and thirty-eight teeth. 
Covering almost the whole length of the cam shaft is a shell or 
sleeve, D^ called the cam shaft sleeve upon wliich are the various 
cams. The first one is the cam clutch and is made in halves, one 
piece, D^, is fastened to the cam shaft and the other half, D', to the 
sleeve. The second cam is the front roll clutch cam, J*; the third is 
the carriage shaft clutch cam, H^; and the fourth is the shipper cam, 



Fig. 331. Diagram Showing 
Movement of Fallers. 



COTTON SPINNING 



279 



On the outside of the headstock are two levers, B" and B', called 
the front and back change motion levers and which are connected 
by a rod, B'', called the change motion rod. On the forward end of 
the rod is the shipper dog, B^ which operates the cam clutch lever, B^ 

Just as the carriage reaches the end of the outward run, a roll 
B°, which is carried by a stand, forming part of the carriage, comes 
against the lever, B°, and causes the rod to move forward and with it 




Fig. 233. Eud Elevation of Cam Sliaft. 

the cam clutch lever. This movement causes the two parts, D^ and 
D^, of the cam clutch to engage and the cam shaft shell is given a half 
revolution, causing all of the cams to assume opposite positions to 
those which they occupied during the outward run. 

When the cam sleeve has made a half revolution, the clutch is 
caused to be disengaged by the peculiar shape of the cam clutch lever. 

In Fig. 233, it will be seen, that both parts, J and J', of the front 
roll clutch, are engaged and we will assiune that the front roll is 
revolving, which is the case when the carriage runs out, but when the 
cam sleeve changes, the position of the cam is directly opposite from 
that which is shown in the drawing. This disengages the clutch 
and stops the rotation of the front roll. 

Fig. 234 shows both parts, H and H\ of the carriage shaft clutch 



321 



280 



COTTON SPINNING 



as engaged for drawing the carriage out, but with the changing of the 
cam sleeve, the clutch is disengaged and the I'evolutions of the carriage 
shaft cease. H' is made in two pieces with corrugated faces which 
are kept in contact by a heavy steel spring, W. Should anything 
obstruct the outward movement of the carriage, this spring will "give" 
and allow the clutch to rotate without imparting movement to the 
carriage. 

In the end elevation (Fig. 232) the belt shipper cam, D^, is shown 
in the position necessary on the outward run. The belt is upon the 




Pig. 233. Elevation Showing Front EoU Clutch. 

tight pulley, but with the half revolution of the cam sleeve, the belt 
guide is locked into position over the loose pulley. 

We have already seen that just before the carriage arrives at 
the end of the outward run, the belt is moved on to the loose pulley 
by the belt relieving motion, but unless the belt is locked into position 
by the shipper cam, it will be moved back on to the tight pulley by the 
inward run of the carriage. 

The carriage is drawn in, in the following manner : On the scroll 
shaft, R^°, Fig. 223, are the scrolls. A, B and C, upon which are wound 
the drawing-up bands. The scroll shaft is driven from the backing- 
off shaft through the gears of fifteen, nineteen, thirteen and thirty- 
eight teeth. 

On the lower end of the drawing-up shaft, S, is the drawing-up 



322 



COTTON SPINNING 



28 1 



friction, P, which rotates with the shaft. The bottom of the friction, 
T', upon wliich is the bevel gear of thirteen 
teeth, is mounted loosely upon the shaft. 

During the outward run, the scroll shaft 
is caused to rotate by the movement of the 
carriage, but when the outward movement 
ceases and the cam shell changes, the drawing- 



„ G 



-PiA.-J 




Fig. 334. Elevation Showing Carriage Shaft Clutch. 

up friction, P, engages with the lower part, T', 
and the carriage is drawn in. The scrolls, A 
and B, serve for this purpose, while the scroll, 
C, acts as a check upon the carriage. The 
scroll band unwinds from C while the other 
bands are winding around A and B. 

It will be necessary to refer to Fig. 235 to 
understand the actual winding operation. 
During the outward run, sixty-four inches of 
yarn have been delivered and it is necessary 
that the spindles shall be given a sufScient number of revolutions, 
and at the correct speed, to wind on this length as it is released by 
the inward run. 

We will assume, that while winding the first layer, the spindle 



y 



Fig. 235. Diagram of Cop 
Showing Winding. 



282 COTTON SPINNING 

will be one-quarter inch diameter in the distance, A-B, and it must 
be revolved at a constant speed to wind the sixty-four inches, but as 
succeeding layers are added, and the diameter of the cop increases, 
the commencing point is higher each time and the finishing point is 
raised at a greater proportion. This lengthens the "chase", as the 
surface of the cop is called, which is shown by the line, C-D. There 
is produced a cone-shaped surface until, when the cop reaches its 
full diameter, as shown by the lines, E-E, the commencing and 
finishing points are raised in the same proportion at each stretch, 
which forms a straight cylindrical shape as shown by the outlines, 
E-E and G-G. 

"When winding the first layer, the speed of the spindle must be 
constant and, as its diameter is one-quarter of an inch, 81. 4S revolu- 
tions will be necessary to wind sixty-four inches of yarn. 

.25 X 3.1416 " ■ 
When the cop reaches the diameter shown at C-C, which we will 
call one-half of an inch, its speed at the bottom must be 40.74 revolu- 
tions. 

.Wlr4i^ =^«-^^ 

As the winding moves up the cone, the speed of the spindle 
increases until at the point, DD, which is one-quarter, of an inch in 
diameter, its speed is 81,48 revolutions. 

When the cop reaches its full diameter at EE, which we will call 
one inch, its speed must be 20.37 R. P. M. or one-fourth as great as 
the speed of the bare spindle. 

It will be seen that the increase in speed of the spindle must be 
proportionate to the decrease in its diameter, as the yarn is wound 
up toward the top of the chase, and the speed decreases for each new 
layer, while the bottom of the cop is being formed, until the full 
diameter is reached. From this point, the speed of the cop, at the 
commencement of each layer, is the same, 20.37 R. P. M., while the 
speed of the spindle, at the finish of each layer, is also the same, 81.48 
R. P. ]\I., except the number of revolutions necessary to compensate 
for the taper of the spindle which will be considered later. 

Quadrant. When the carriage runs out, the spindles are driven 
by the rim band, but when winding, the spindles are caused to rotate 



324 



COTTON SPINNING 



283 



by the quadrant chain, Q\ one end of which is attached to the quad- 
rant arm, Q, the other fastened to the winding drum, W^, as shown in 
Fig. 223. Connected to this drum is a gear of sixty-eight teetli, which 




drives a gear of thirty-four teetli, the latter connected to the drum 
shaft by a pawl and ratchet; the spindle drum makes two revolutions 
to one of the winding drum. 



325 



284 COTTON SPINNING 



While drawing and twisting are going on, the winding drum is 
driven by a special band and the chain is wound. 

Fig. 236 is a diagram of the quadrant arm and winding drum in 
several positions. The quadrant arm moves about ninety degrees, 
. from A to B, while the carriage is making the whole of its run from 
I to L. While the first layer is winding, the nut by which the chain 
is attached to the arm is at C, its lowest position, nearest the fulcrum 
at S, and as the quadrant arm moves the ninety degrees, this point 
will move to D while the carriage moves the whole length of the inward 
run. 

The movement of the nut as compared to the movement of the 
carriage will be very slight, and the spindles will be rotated at nearly a 
uniform speed. 

When the cop has reached one-half inch diameter, the nut will 
have moved up the arm to a point at E. Here it is shown in four 
positions marked, E, F, G and H. The winding drum is shown also 
in four positions, marked I, J, K and L. 

AVhen the nut moves from E to F, the chain will have moved in a 
horizontal line, equal to the distance from O to P, and the drum will 
move from I to J. When it reaches G, the movement is less as shown 
by the distance, P-Q, and the drum moves from J to K, the same 
distance as before. As the nut reaches the point H, the movement 
will be considerably less, as shown by the distance, Q-R, and the 
carriage moves from K to L, the same distance as in each of the other 
stages. 

During the early stages of the building of the cop, the horizontal 
movement of the quadrant nut is more uniform and the spindles are 
run at nearly a uniform speed. 

When the carriage starts to run in, from I to J, the horizontal 
movement of the nut, from C to D, corresponds, nearly, to the move- 
ment of the carriage and the spindles run at a comparatively slow 
speed but as the carriage recedes from the starting point, the hori- 
zontal movement of the nut decreases in proportion to the movement 
of the carriage and the spindles are turned at a proportionately faster 
speed, by more of the chain unwinding from around the drum. 

When the cop reaches its largest diameter, the nut is at its highest 
point. A, and remains at this point until the cop is finished. The 
speed of the spindles, at different points for each stretch, is the same. 



COTTON SPINNING 



285 



Reference has been made to the fact of the spindle being larger 
at the base than at the point, and that some means must be employed 
to make up for this difference. If this is not done, the noses of the 




cops will be soft, caused by slack winding. To overcome this, a 
device, called the automatic nosing motion, is used. 

The winding drum is made with a straight face, for the greater 



286 



COTTON SPINNING 



portion of its length, but terminates in a smaller diameter at the end 
of which the chain is fastened. 

While the first half of the cop is building, the chain unwinds from 
the straight face of the drum, but as the cop approaches the finish, 
the chain is gradually shortened by winding around a drum formed 
on the quadrant nut. This causes the chain to unwind on to the 
smaller diameter of the winding drum and gh'es the spindles a few 
additional turns just as the carriage arrives at the end of the run. 

Builder. By referring to Fig. 225, the builder, or copping rail, 
will be seen to consist of two parts, a main piece, L', and a short piece, 
O^, called the loose incline. 

The main piece is supported at the front by the builder shoe, 
O', and at the back by the shoe, 0'°. The forward end of the loose 
incline is supported by the shoe, O^. The shoes are connected by the 
rod, O^ At each stretch, the shoes are 
moved back, causing the rail to drop a 
little and the fallers to rise a correspond- 
ing distance, thus bringing the winding 
higher upon the spindles. 

Fig. 237 shows the copping rail. A, 
composed of one piece and supported at 
each end by shoes, B and C. The fal- 
lers are shown above in three positions, 
1,2 and 3. 

When winding commences, the faller 
wire is in the first position but, when the 
carriage reaches the highest point in the 
rail, at' the second position, the faller 
wire has descended to the lowest point. 
From here to the tliird position, the faller 
rises slowly until it reaches the same height as the starting point. 
This will cause the yarn to wind on to the spindle, as shown in Fig. 
238, by the distance C to D. The distance, C to D, is considerably 
greater than the distance, A to B, and the finishing point, D, has 
risen from A to D at a much cjuicker rate than the commencing, 
which has moved from B to C, only. It is evident that if the rail 
is composed of one piece, it will cause all of the layers to be wound 
the same height. 




Fig. 238. Diagram of Cop 
Showing winding. 



COTTON SPINNING 



287 



The way to overcome this is to have a loose incline as shown 
in Fig. 239. 

The builder rail, H, I and J, is made in two pieces, the surface, 
H-I, is hinged to J at I. By this means, it is possible to lower the 
points, H and J, as much as is shown by the distance, M, and as these 
points represent the start and finish of the stretch, it will be seen that 
the yarn must commence and finish winding at the same point, while 
the point, I, must fall to a less extent than either the points, J or H, 
as shown by the distance, L. The distance, L, represents the move- 
ment B to C in Fig. 238 and the distance, M, represents the movement 
AtoD. 

This continues while the bottom of the cop is building after 
which the points, H, I and J, fall to the same extent, as the winding 
gradually approaches the top of the spindle. 

When the inward run is finished, the fallers are unlocked. The 
cam sleeve is given a half revolution and the parts are caused to re-en- 




Fig. 339. Diagram Showing Loose Incline. 

gage ready to commence the operation of drawing and twisting again. 
The front roll clutch is put in gear, the drawing-up friction is disen- 
gaged and the belt is moved on to the tight pulley. 

During the run in, while the front roll clutch is disengaged, the 
front roll is caused to turn about one revolution, being driven from 
the carriage shaft by what is called the roller motion, shown in Fig. 
240. This consists of a plate. A*, keyed to the front roll which carries 
a pawl, A^ held by a spring, A'', in contact with teeth formed on the 
inside of the roller motion gear, A^ 

When the carriage runs out, the front roll is driven from the 
twist gear, as already described, but when it runs in, motion is com- 
municated to the front roll, from the carriage shaft, through the gears 
of twenty-two, fifty and seventy teeth (Fig. 222) by the pawl engaging 
the teeth of the roller motion gear. 



288 



COTTON SPINNING 



Snarls are produced in yarn in many ways. Following are 
some causes: 

The quadrant nut may be too high. 

The fallers may unlock too soon. 

The nosing motion may not operate until the cops get too full. 





Fig. 340. Holier Motion. 

There may not be enough gain in the carriage. 

If the counter faller is too high on the outward run, it will lift 
the yarn from the points of the spindles. 

The rim and spindle bands may be too slack. 

If the ends are left down too long, snarls will be made, when the 
end is pieced up, by the cop not being pushed up the spindle. 

The snarling motion may not be set correctly. 

The bolsters and steps for the spindles may be badly worn. 

Uneven roving will cause snarls by winding loosely on some 
spindles and tightly on others. 

Snarling Motion. To overcome snarling of the yarn, the mule 
is provided with what is called a snarling motion, which is shown in 
Fig. 241. 

Around the loose half of the front roll clutch, JS passes a strap, 
P, connected to the back end of which is a weight, P; on the front 
end is a smaller weight, J". Both parts, J and J', of the clutch are 
mounted loosely upon the front roll, D. A dog, P, is keyed to the 
shaft. On the part, J\ of the clutch are two lugs which project 
between the ears of the dog, J-. 



COTTON SPINNING 



289 



When the teeth of J' are caused to engage with the teeth of J, 
motion is communicated to the front roll by the lugs on J' turning 
until they come in contact with the ears of the dog. When J' 
turns, the friction of the strap carries the weight, .1°, up, until it comes 
in contact with J', where it remains until the end of the outward run 

50 TEETH 





"o^^^ 




Fig. 241. Snarling Motion. 

is reached. AVhen the clutch is thrown out, the part, J', is turned 
backward by the weight, J'', overbalancing J", until the lugs come 
against the back side of the ears of P. The carriage starts out at 
the same time that the clutch is thrown in, and, as no movement is 
given to the front roll until the lugs come against the ears of the 
carrier, the snarls are taken out of the yarn by the outward movement 
of the carriage. 



REVIEW QUESTIONS. 



PRACTICAL TEST QUESTIONS. 

In the foregoing sections of this Cyclopedia nu- 
merous illustrative examples are worked out in 
detail in order to show the application of the 
various methods and principles. Accompanying 
these are examples for practice which will aid the 
readar in fixing the principles in mind. 

In the following pages are given a large num- 
ber of test questions and problems which afford a 
valuable means of testing the reader's knowledge 
of the subjects treated. They will be found excel- 
lent practice for those preparing Civil Service Ex- 
aminations. In some cases numerical answers are 
given as a further aid in this work. 



RBVIBT^ QUESTIONS 



ON THE SXJJB.TECT OF 



COTTON FIBER 



1. Draw or trace a map of the world, showing the equator, 
and indicate with dotted lines what you consider the World's 
Cotton Belt. 

2. (a) Name and describe the finest kind of cotton grown. 
(J). Why is this better than other virieties? 

(c) What cotton most closely resembles wool? 

3. Describe the method of cotton cultivation and the 
general characteristics of the ripe fiber. 

4. What are the disadvantages encountered in manufac- 
turing unripe fiber ? 

5. Into what classes may cotton gins be divided? 

• 6. Describe the principles of each class of cotton gin. 

7. If you were the o^vner of a large quantity of Sea Island 
seed cotton, by what method would you have it ginned? 

8. («) Can Sea Island cotton ginned by the proper method 
contain cut staple? Explain. 

(i) Can it contain neppy cotton ? Explain. 

9. What do you consider the most necessary characteristic 
of cotton fiber to be used for spinnuig ? 

10. What are the important considerations in buying cotton 
for weft or filling purposes ? 

11. If you bought 250 bales of cotton (500 pounds per 
bale) at 9.V cents per p(jund, and it was discovered that there was 



386 



COTTON FIBER. 



9| per cent of moisture, what would be the cost per pound to your 
mill, considering 6 per cent of moisture as being normal? 

12. What is the manner of ascertaining the excess of mois- 
ture in cotton ? 

13. In your opinion, why should the bale breaker be used 
more in England than in the United States ? 

14. State your reasons for considering that cotton bales of 
the same variety, grade, and from the same locality, should or 
should not be mixed. 

15. Does the uniformity of length of cotton staple make 
any difference in the quality of yarn produced ? State your 
reasons. 

16. Into what divisions may the life of the cotton plant be 
divided ? 

lY. Describe the different methods of baling. 

18. Of what is an individual cotton fiber composed ? 

19. ■ How would you determine the amount of sand and dirt 
contained in a cotton sample ? 

20. How can cut staples be avoided in ginning ? 



RBVIET^ QUESTIONS 



ON THE STJBJECT OF 



COTTON SPINNIISrO 



1. The laps fi'om the intermediate picker weigh 14 ounces 
per yard ; tliere are four doubled on the apron of the finisher picker 
which has a draft of 4i ; what is the weight per yard of the lap 
from the finisher? 

2. What draft gear would be used to give this draft? 

3. What should be the number of teeth in the knock-off 
gear to wind a lap 50 yards long:? 

4. If the draft of air produced by the fan on the picker is 
too strong, what is the result? 

5. What advantage is there in using two single-beater 
machines instead of one two-beater machine? 

6. Why is there a difference in tlie size of the meshes in the 
top and bottom cages ? 

7. Describe the device for preventing any foreign substance 
from being wound into the lap. 

8. What two systems are used for regulating the weight of 
the laps on the intermediate and finisher pickers? 

9. What should be the draft of the picker with a draft-gear 
of 16 teeth? 

10. What would be the. production of the picker in a day of 
10 hours, less 10 per cent, for time lost in cleaning, with a 5"- 
diameter feed-pulley and a 14-ounee lap ? ■ 



COTTON SPINNING. 



11. What means are provided for preventing the laps from 
splitting? 

12. Into how many and what systems can picking ma- 
chinery be divided? 

13. Which style of beater removes the most dirt? 

14. AVhat are tlie requirements of cotton that is to be spun 
into fine yarn? 

15. What are the foreign substances that are removed from 
the cotton in the opening and picking processes? 

16. Describe the means provided for preventing the dirt in 
the dust^room from blowing back into the machine that is not in 
operation. 

17. Under what conditions is a blowing system used to the 
best advantage? 

18. Describe how the feed of an automatic feeder is regu- 
lated. 

19. For what purpose is the dust-room? 

20. What system of pickers is used the most at the present 
time ? 

21. How fast is the beater of an opener usually run? 

22. Under what conditions is a guage box section used on 
a breaker picker ? 

23. How is the size of the dust flue determined ? 

24. Where are the stripping rolls, and what is their pur- 
pose ? 

25. Name the different styles of beaters and tell where each 
is generally used. 

26. How many places are there on a single beater finisher 
picker for cleaning the cotton ? 

27. Describe the method of feeding cotton to a picker before 
the introduction of automatic feeders. 



338 



REVIET\^ QUESTIOISrS 



ON THE STJISJEICT OF 



COTTON SPINNING 



PART II 



1. What will be the production of a card per day of ten 
hours, less 6 per cent of time, lost in stiipping and cleaning? 
Speed of doffer, 13.5 revolutions per minute. Weight of sliver, 62 
grains per yard. (Fig. 106.) 

2. What gear should be used to give the doffer 13.5 revo- 
lutions per minute ? 

3. What will be the number of points per square foot, in 
the clothing of the cylinder, if the fillet has 21 noggs per inch ? 

4. Describe the manner in which the strippings from the 
flats are regulated. 

5. What should be the number of points per square foot 
for the clothing of the cylinder, doffer and flats on a card for 
medium work? 

6. Describe the operation of stripping the card. 

7. What would be the draft of the card to make a sliver 
weighing 49 grains per yard from a lap weighing 12.5 ounces per 
yard with 4.5 per cent loss in weight from stripping, dirt, etc. ? 

8. Explain why a screen is necessary under the card 
cylinder. 

9. What is the object of the flats ? 

10. Why is it better to have a separate pulley for driving 
each card ? 

11. Give the usual settings required on the card. 

12. Describe the operation of grinding the cylinder and 
doffer. 



339 



COTTON SPINNING. 



13. For what purpose is the mote knife ? 

14. What are the defects in the feed rolls of the, old .style 
cards ? 

15. How often is it necessary to grind the card? 

16. Name some of the defects liable to be found in card 
clothing. 

17. What effect does oil have on the foundation of card 
clothing ? 

18. Of what is the foundation for the clothing of the flats 
generally composed ? 

19. Theoretically, what position is considered best for 
grinding the flats? 

20. What evils are caused by the stretching of the flat 
chain ? 

21. Describe the covering for a Stripping Brush. 

22. What are the advantages of a Calendar Roll Stop 
Motion ? 

23. What kind of wire is used for Card Clothing on a 
Revolving Flat Card ? 

24. What should be the draft of the Card, shown in Fig. 
103, with a draft'gear of 16 teeth? 

25. What pressure is used when diawing on the fillet for a 
Cylinder and a Doif er ? 

26. What should be the speed of the doffer of the Card, 
shown in Fig. 104, with a change gear of 23 teeth ? 

27. What part of the card wire is called the crown? 

28. What would be the production of the Card,, shown in 
Fig. 105, for a day of eleven hours, less 5 per cent ? Weight of 
Sliver, 58 grains. • Change Gear, 19 teeth. 

29. What gear should be used to give 109 draft for the 
Card, shown in Fig. 108 ? 

30. What would be the draft of the Card, shown in Fig. 104, 
to make a sliver weighing 56 grains per yard, from a lap weigh- 
ing 14 ounces per yard, less 6 per cent, loss in weight for dirt, 
strippings, etc. ? 



REVIE-W^ QUESTIOlSrS 



0]N" THE SUBJECT OF 



COTTON SPINNING 



PART III 



1. "What will be the production of the comb per day of ten 
hours, less 10 per cent? Weight of laps, 230 grains per yard; 
number of laps, 6; percentage of waste, 18; revolutions of cylin- 
der per minute, 75; draft of comb, 22.5. 

2. Name the different ways in which combing machines are 
arranged. 

3. What gear should be used to give the comb a draft of 
22.5 ? 

4. What are the stopmotions on the ribbon lapper called, 
and why are they necessary ? 

5. What will be the weight per yard of the lap from the 
sliver lap machine? Slivers, 47.5 grains per yard; double, 14; 
draft, 2.25. 

6. Name some of the.uses for combed yarns. 

7. Calculate the draft factor for the ribbon lapper from the 
diagram of the gearing shown in Fig. 111. 

8. Describe the manner in which the feed rolls of the comb 
are driven. 

9. What will be the weight in grains per yard of the lap 
from the ribbon lapper? Laps at back, 295.55 grains per yard; 
double, 6; draft, 6.15. 

10. For what purpose is the timing dial of the comb ? 

11. What will be the weight of the comb sliver in grains per 
yard ? Weight of laps, 250 grains per yard ; double, 6 ; draft, 27 ; 
percentage of waste, 20. 

12. What is the usual draft of the sliver lap machine ? 

13. What will be the production of the sliver lap iBachine 
for a day of eleven hours, less 10 per cent ? Weight of lap, 260 
grains per yard. Calender rolls make 72 revolutions per minute. 



COTTON SPINNHSTG 



14. What are the functions of the cushion plate and the nip- 
per knife ? 

15. What is the draft between the front roll and the 5"- 
diameter calender roll, on the ribbon lapper gearing shown in 
Fig. Ill ? • / 

16. Explain why a balance wheel is necessary on the driving 
shaft of the comb. 

17. What will be the weight in grains per yard of the comb 
sliver, based on a card sliver weighing 45 grains per yard ? 

Double on sliver lap machine, 14; draft- of sliver lap ma- 
chine, 2.6. 

Doiible on ribbon lapper, 6; draft of ribbon lapper, 6.2. 
Double on comb, 6; draft of comb, 26. 
Percentage of waste, 16. 

18. For what purpose are the detaching rolls, and how are 
they operated ? 

19. What will be the production of sixteen combs per day of 
ten hours, less 11 per cent ? Speed of cylinders, 78 revolutions 
per minute. F^or weight of "silver, take result of calculation in 
Question 17. 

20. Describe how the percentage of waste may be controlled 
by the top comb. 

21. What will be the draft of the sliver lap machine -v^ith a 
draft gear of 49 teeth ? 

22. What part of the cylinder is called the half-lap, and how 
is it constructed ? 

23. For what purpose is the lifting cam ? 

24. How are the top combs operated ? 

25. Describe the manner in which the cylinders are set. 

26. Describe how the percentage of waste may be controUed 
by the feed rolls. 

27. If the nippers are late in closing, what is the result ? 

28. What are the necessary characteristics of yarn for hosiery 
and underwear ? 

29. What is the width of the lap made on the sliver lap 
machine ? 

30. What will be the revolutions of the driving pulleys on 
the ribbon lapper to give the 5"-diameter calender rolls 85 revolu- 
tions per minute ? 



REVIEW QUESTIOiSrS 



ON THE StJBOBCT OS- 



CO T T O jST SPINjN^ING 



PART IV 



1. Name the Hy fi-cime change gears and state for what purpose 
each is used. 

2. What is the standard twist for 8.25 hank roving? 

3. Describe the conditions that affect the tension gear. 

4. What draft will be recjuired on a fine fly frame to make 6.50 
hank roving from 2.18 hank in the creels? 

5. Wliat should be the number of teeth in the twist gear to give 
the twist per inch called for In Problem 2? 

6. What v/ill be the number of roving spun, with a draft gear 
of 25 teeth, from 3.00 hank in the creel of the machine? 

7. Describe the difference between "flyer lead" and "bobbin 
lead." 

8. State the reason for weighing 12 yards of roving when it is 
desired to ascertain the hank. 

9. For what purpose is the differential gearing? 

10. Give the reason for changing the cone gear. 

11. If 12 yards of roving weigh 94 grains, what Is the hank? 

12. What will be the production for a day of 10 hours for a fine 
fly frame making 6.50 hank roving? 

13. State why the weather or atmospheric conditions affect the 
building of the bobbin. 

14. ^^^lat is the weight in grains per yard for .63 hank roving? 

15. What will be the draft of the fine fly frame with a 36 tooth 
draft gear and a front roll gear of 47 teeth? 



REVIEW QUESTIONS 



ON THE STTBJECT OB" 



COTTOlSr SPINNING 



PABT V. 



1. How many yards will there be in one pound of Number 
39 yarn? 

2. Why is the rail made to traverse faster in one direction than 
in the other, on a filling wind? 

3. Find the production per spindle for a day of ten hours 
for Number 30 filling yarn, standard twist. Speed of spindles, 8600 
R. P. M. Estimate of time run, 580 minutes. 

4. What twist gear is necessary to give the twist called for in 
question 3? 

5. Figure the draft factor with a crown gear of 104 teeth and 
a front roll gear of 30 teeth. 

G. Figure a program for making Number 24 warp yarn with 
three processes of roving; picker lap to weigh 14 ounces per yard and 
double roving in spinning creel. 

7. What is the weight per yard for Number 7f yarn? 

8. Find the draft factor for the mule from the diagram of 
gearing shown in Fig. 223. 

9. What should be the number of the hank roving, doubled 
in the creel, to spin Number 60 yarn with a draft of 12? 

10. Figure the twist factor for the ring frame with a drum gear 
of 24 teeth and a front roll gear of 91 teeth. Drum 8 inches in diame- 
ter; whirl 11 inches in diameter; and front roll 1-jJ^ inches in diameter. 

11. What is the standard twist for Number 672- filling yarn? 

12. What should be the number of teeth in the twist gear for 
Number 30 warp yarn, standard twist, using the factor found in 
question 10? 



3 CI 



